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luminalflux posted:Having grown up in Sweden I just keep my low beams on all the time since I want to be seen when driving My first car was a '99 Subaru Impreza, I killed the battery on my ex-wife's Escort a few times because apparently nobody aside from Subaru had figured out the idea of having headlights that automatically turn off when you turn off the car. I drove that Subaru around for 9 years with the headlights on 100% of the time because I could just leave them on all the time without fiddling with it every time I turned the car off/on. Even my 2012 Accord I have to check to see if my lights are on if it's cloudy or poor visibility because it has auto-on headlights but if you set them to on they stay on when you turn off the car.
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Sep 6, 2023 17:21
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I've been trying to diagnose this knocking sound from the front suspension of my 2012 Acura TSX wagon. I don't have access to a jack at the moment, so my diagnostic options are limited. It sounds like a muffled popping, and almost always comes in twos or more depending on the road condition (pa-pa pa-pa pa-pa). I mostly notice it over slightly bumpy flat roads, not big bumps, just small road imperfections. No change in effect from turning, braking, or accelerating. On the highway, I noticed the car tends to drift to the left, but other than that the handling is stellar. I climbed under the car and tugged on everything I could reach, I couldn't find any play (at least using a gloved hand) in sway bar end links, tie rod ends, or other usual suspects. I was thinking of taking it in for an alignment to slyly see if the tech notices anything awry. On these cars, which have a double wishbone suspension, what components are they actually adjusting in an alignment?
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Sep 6, 2023 17:31
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Head Bee Guy posted:I've been trying to diagnose this knocking sound from the front suspension of my 2012 Acura TSX wagon. I don't have access to a jack at the moment, so my diagnostic options are limited. It sounds like a muffled popping, and almost always comes in twos or more depending on the road condition (pa-pa pa-pa pa-pa). I mostly notice it over slightly bumpy flat roads, not big bumps, just small road imperfections. No change in effect from turning, braking, or accelerating. On the highway, I noticed the car tends to drift to the left, but other than that the handling is stellar. I climbed under the car and tugged on everything I could reach, I couldn't find any play (at least using a gloved hand) in sway bar end links, tie rod ends, or other usual suspects. Could also be the strut mount. They always adjust the outer tie rod end. Not sure how much/any adjustment can be done for your setup though.
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Sep 6, 2023 17:59
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opengl posted:I'm slapping a hitch on my Vibe to drag my bike to track days. They're expensive but check out aluma trailers, I was able to find a 7x10 large enough to tow the caterham/locost behind the vw that was right around 400lb. I've also seen people bolt a ramp or piece of u-channel to a single jet ski trailer.
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Sep 6, 2023 21:19
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what’s the bike
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Sep 6, 2023 21:33
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It's a two wheeled motor vehicle but that's not important right now.
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Sep 6, 2023 21:35
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opengl posted:I'm slapping a hitch on my Vibe to drag my bike to track days. HF tiny, smaller than the 4x8. or aluma. Most of the folding jobbies are kind of heavy. Transmission cooler if any of the following apply to you: * CVT * Hills involving any grades more than say 5%
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Sep 6, 2023 21:36
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Thanks y'all. Budget is as cheap as possible so nice new aluminum trailers are out. I'd love one of those dedicated folding single rail moto trailers but they are stupid money. Trying to get something under $500 if possible. So yup I've been looking at homemade ones built on the small HF trailers like csb mentioned and also converted jetski trailers. Stuff like this:    Because yeah this car has no business pulling anything remotely heavy. I don't even really want to pull the uhaul moto trailer since that thing is 800lbs empty. Current track bike is a Duke 390, going to run it through next season then it'll probably be an SV so not too much heavier. My "local" track is about 90 miles away without much change in elevation. Other tracks I'll likely hit are 3-4 hours away with some decent grades, but I can borrow my father's SUV if I really need to, just trying to keep as self sufficient as possible so I can hit the track without as much logistics leading up to it if I decide to go on a random weekday for example. Luckily I've been able to steal trailer space with my riding buddies up until now but that won't always be the case. I considered putting a hitch on the Mustang as it'd tow with ease, but I can't afford to lose the ground clearance in the rear with how steep the entrance to my driveway is. Anyway wrt the trans cooler, I'll probably throw one on to be safe, they're like $50 for a basic one. opengl fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 6, 2023 |
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Sep 6, 2023 22:28
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Ive pulled a little one cross country... keep a spare set of 8" tires around, they wear fast. And lube the bearings more often due to the hub velocities.  Use high quality hose with the transmission cooler.
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Sep 6, 2023 22:37
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FYI, the harbor freight trailers all say not to exceed 45mph. I'm sure most people do anyways, but that skeezes me out about them.
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Sep 7, 2023 02:00
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What’s the best guide for used car pricing at the moment? It seems like KBB is lower than I’d expect the car I’m looking at to be based on the craziness in the used car market at the moment.
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Sep 7, 2023 02:03
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sleepy gary posted:FYI, the harbor freight trailers all say not to exceed 45mph. I'm sure most people do anyways, but that skeezes me out about them. With my HF trailer the speed limit seems to be related to the tires more than anything else. The tires are grade Z cheap rubber, so if I was going on any long trip with the trailer I’d personally just get a better set of tires mounted then head forth with impunity. Also, keep in mind the lawyers are also running on the assumption that some dipshit like me will see “ooh, cheap trailer that holds 1,500 lbs!” and proceed to load that bitch down with 2,000 lbs of rocks while ripping along the highway at 75. The tires definitely wouldn’t be up to that sort of punishment.
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Sep 7, 2023 03:50
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Is Harbor Freight better at greasing trailer wheels than they are at greasing their electric tools?
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Sep 7, 2023 06:23
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I have a 2007 Saturn Vue 3.5 AWD. It is no longer AWD because it has no drive shaft. Is there any reason I shouldn't remove the rear differential and rear cv axles?
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Sep 7, 2023 06:32
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opengl posted:Thanks y'all. Budget is as cheap as possible so nice new aluminum trailers are out. I'd love one of those dedicated folding single rail moto trailers but they are stupid money. Trying to get something under $500 if possible. The pontiac Vibe isn't sold here so I can't check what a european governmental agency might consider a prudent trailer load for it, but it seems sort of comparable to my shitbox (2010 Kia Ceed 1.6l automatic) that I slapped a hitch on. I don't think you would have any issues pulling a trailer loaded with a single bike with it even if it's a "heavy" trailer around 400kg empty. I don't haul heavy trailers very far with it obviously but I've hauled some lumber that was probably close to my legal limit of 1200kg with some hills and it was completely uneventful despite only having 105 horses. I wouldn't think twice about hauling a sub 800kg trailer 90 miles with my shitbox unless there was significant elevation changes to deal with, then a trans cooler would probably be a great idea. The though of installing one of those has never crossed my mind honestly.
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Sep 7, 2023 11:19
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Invalido posted:The pontiac Vibe isn't sold here so I can't check what a european governmental agency might consider a prudent trailer load for it, but it seems sort of comparable to my shitbox (2010 Kia Ceed 1.6l automatic) that I slapped a hitch on. I don't think you would have any issues pulling a trailer loaded with a single bike with it even if it's a "heavy" trailer around 400kg empty. I don't haul heavy trailers very far with it obviously but I've hauled some lumber that was probably close to my legal limit of 1200kg with some hills and it was completely uneventful despite only having 105 horses. I wouldn't think twice about hauling a sub 800kg trailer 90 miles with my shitbox unless there was significant elevation changes to deal with, then a trans cooler would probably be a great idea. The though of installing one of those has never crossed my mind honestly. It's a Toyota Matrix
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Sep 7, 2023 12:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:It's a Toyota Matrix None of those for sale here either. Someone claimed the closest match would be a Corolla Verso, which can haul 1300kg with a surge braked trailer where I live. Invalido fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Sep 7, 2023 |
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Sep 7, 2023 12:37
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Koaxke posted:What’s the best guide for used car pricing at the moment? It seems like KBB is lower than I’d expect the car I’m looking at to be based on the craziness in the used car market at the moment. Check out the car buying thread in BFC. KBB has been under the market for a while. Markets also vary by region. Just search on car gurus, edmonds, etc in your area to get a sense comps
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Sep 7, 2023 14:10
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boxen posted:Is Harbor Freight better at greasing trailer wheels than they are at greasing their electric tools? Lol No. sleepy gary posted:I have a 2007 Saturn Vue 3.5 AWD. It is no longer AWD because it has no drive shaft. Is there any reason I shouldn't remove the rear differential and rear cv axles? If its the same wheelbearing used on the rear axle between FWD/AWD You're probably fine. Otherwise leave the cv stub axle in the hub to hold the bearings together. It won't make much of a difference in mpg if that's what you're seeking.
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Sep 7, 2023 16:30
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cursedshitbox posted:If its the same wheelbearing used on the rear axle between FWD/AWD You're probably fine. Otherwise leave the cv stub axle in the hub to hold the bearings together. Pretty sure it's the same bearing. I don't see any reason the CV axles need to be connected to the bearings but I wanted to get some opinions first. I'm not looking for MPG gains from it.
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Sep 7, 2023 16:36
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 should I be annoyed/concerned about this (they used the alignment ranges for the non-ST Fiestas)? I just brought the car back for a 25 mile retorque but apparently the alignment guy has gone home for the evening and so I’ll have to come back tomorrow. I imagine that at worst I’ll have to sit through another alignment, which would suck utter donkey dick after they made me flatbed the car in yesterday only to tell me that the tires I requested from the website on the phone were the ones that I needed (yeah, no poo poo) but that they had to get them in from another shop (yeah, no poo poo. That’s why I called in the morning). I’m supposed to go on a ~65 mile round trip later this evening, is this gonna be a problem or can I assume the alignments are similar enough? trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 7, 2023 |
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Sep 7, 2023 22:02
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Brings me back to selling auto parts and shops would get mad about getting the wrong part because they neglected to specify trim since, “they’re all the same.”
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Sep 7, 2023 22:11
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sleepy gary posted:Pretty sure it's the same bearing. I don't see any reason the CV axles need to be connected to the bearings but I wanted to get some opinions first. I'm not looking for MPG gains from it. If they go through the bearing it holds them together. If they bolt to a hub you'll be fine. Leave the diff and put a Bluetooth sticker on it.
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Sep 7, 2023 22:16
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Ok Comboomer posted:
It will just wear your tires weird. If you’re gonna have em do another alignment tomorrow you should be fine. e: not sure where I got that “gonna get em aligned tomorrow,” but yeah, you’re gonna need an alignment. That said, you could drive this one in and have em do it.
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Sep 7, 2023 22:45
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The front right CV axle on my 2007 Grand Prix GT has been spitting grease lately and something started clicking while turning the other day, so I'm on Rockauto looking at replacements. I replaced the front left about three years ago and its boots have just starting to leak, but nowhere near the catastrophic failure leakage level that the front right seems to have undergone over the last few months, so it's time to take care of this one now. I see a GSP Xtreme Heavy Duty CV axle that looks like it would be the one to go for, EXCEPT it says "Front Right; with 3.06 Final Drive Ratio". I thought final drive ratio was a transmission spec, not a CV axle spec? As far as I am aware, these '07 GT models have a 2.93 final drive ratio, mine included, so I'm wondering A.) Does this change my front right tire to a 3.06 final drive ratio? B.) Is it supposed to be for Grand Prix models that come standard with the 3.06 final drive ratio (i.e., the non GT trim)? and C.) Will this or won't this work with my car? There's a front left and a front right by GSP, but only the right says it's "with 3.06 final drive ratio", so I'm like, huh? What the gently caress??  Do CV axles change gear ratios or can I just slap it in and not worry about it?
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Sep 8, 2023 00:07
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XYZAB posted:I see a GSP Xtreme Heavy Duty CV axle that looks like it would be the one to go for, EXCEPT it says "Front Right; with 3.06 Final Drive Ratio". I thought final drive ratio was a transmission spec, not a CV axle spec? As far as I am aware, these '07 GT models have a 2.93 final drive ratio, mine included, so I'm wondering A.) Does this change my front right tire to a 3.06 final drive ratio? B.) Is it supposed to be for Grand Prix models that come standard with the 3.06 final drive ratio (i.e., the non GT trim)? and C.) Will this or won't this work with my car? To that point, reviewing O'Reilly's options shows different spline counts, all of which probably equate to different options, and are NOT inter compatible: edit: Or the left and right have different spline counts, that's totally possible too.
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Sep 8, 2023 00:27
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funeral home DJ posted:Unless the CEL was unplugged by the PO, or something. It should light up for a moment when you turn on the key.
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Sep 8, 2023 01:47
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honda whisperer posted:If they go through the bearing it holds them together. If they bolt to a hub you'll be fine. They go through the bearing (all the bearings have splines for cv axles even on the 2WD models from what I can tell) but they're held onto the bearing hub assembly with an axle nut. The bearing assembly bolts onto the knuckle. This all seems like I should be able to remove the cv axles, right? Thanks for the opinions.
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Sep 8, 2023 03:28
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USUALLY the axle nut applies preload to the bearing, and leaving the nut + at least the axle stub out will destroy the bearing in short order. But you're right, even FWD models have the splines on all 4. To be safe, I looked up the application guide for Timkin 512229 (rear w/ABS, Timkin makes it pretty easy to find application guides) - it's listed as working for both FWD and AWD. I just looked up a video showing how to replace a rear being on a FWD 2002-2007 for shits and giggles, and... yup, it has the hole there. A very crusty one that obviously hasn't had an axle stubbed in before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezzisa5v9f4&t=47s Dude doesn't even mention it, so he's probably used to seeing that. They did the same to the same year models of the Equinox. Silly me, assuming GM wouldn't parts bin absolutely everything. I think you'll be fine removing everything, just hang on to it in case the bearings start getting noisy. If they do you can probably yank the outer bearing cup w/stub and shove it in, torque to the recommended 79 ft/lbs. If they haven't started getting noisy or loose after a few months, sell the parts. Out of curiously though, why are you removing everything? Is the rear diff bad, or just trying to free up an extra 0.1-0.2 MPG? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 15:37
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I think I have a bad O2 sensor, but wanted some advice to confirm. It is a 2004 Hyundai Sonata. - I was getting an error code saying that the engine was running lean in bank 1. - I replaced one of the O2 sensor cables in front, but can't get to the other one without a rotatable tool or taking a bunch of parts out. - Now, the original error message went away, but I have 3 new ones: - P0134 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected - P0135 Sensor Heater Bank Circuit Bank 1 Sensor - P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor I assume this is confirmation that it was something with the O2 sensor and only being able to replace one of the banks was the culprit. Is it likely that I need to just replace the other one to get rid of the error codes? The car runs fine, but I have to update my registration soon and will fail with the OBD error/check engine light on. How much would it run me at a garage to just have them install the second one? Thanks.
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Sep 8, 2023 17:39
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First, V6 or 4 cylinder? All of those codes coming up at the same time tell me the ECU doesn't even see your primary bank 1 O2 sensor anymore - the one before the catalytic converter. If it's a 4 cylinder model, you only have bank 1. If it's a V6, you have 2 banks and it'd be helpful to know which bank was throwing the lean code (the actual code will tell us). The primary O2 is responsible for the fuel mixture, and one of the first signs of a sensor failing is sometimes a lean code - for bank 1, it'd usually replaced by P0133 (slow response) or P0134 (voltage high), with no other codes except maybe the lean code. That said, the lean code could have been caused by something else - most common one is a tear in the tube from the airbox to the throttle body (letting unmetered air into the engine); disconnected vacuum line or even a loose oil filler cap or oil dipstick not being fully inserted can do it too. You said you "replaced cables", but not the sensor itself? I would put the original wiring back in. If it comes back with just the lean code, there's a decent chance something else is going on. You didn't cut/splice any wires, right? If you did, recheck your work, and never ever ever ever cut anything on the sensor side of the plug when it comes to an O2 sensor. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 17:59
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randomidiot posted:All of those codes point to a disconnected primary O2 sensor - the one closest to the engine in your case (front). Sorry, I was using the word cables too loosely. No, I replaced the entire O2 sensor. I disconnected the old one and replaced it. I did not cut anything. I bought a set of two replacements and could only get to the one closest to me. The other is too covered with parts to get by hand and I assume I need a flexible O2 socket wrench or some more space to get it out and install a new one. Leon Trotsky 2012 fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 18:05
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Okay. What was the original lean code (bank 1 or bank 2?), and is it a V6 or 4 cylinder? What brand sensor did you replace it with? It's possible you got a bad one, or one your car just doesn't like. But that really sounds like the sensor isn't connected. Anything "bank 2" would be a V6, the 4 cylinder only has bank 1. Double check to make sure the plug is firmly connected. If you didn't feel it click in, it could have popped out. Or may not be making decent contact. I would have done a little more troubleshooting first (see my edited reply above), but you need to get a working O2 sensor fully connected to see if the code comes back (and to do any other troubleshooting). On one car I had, the retaining clip on the car side plug broke when I replaced the sensor - I threaded a small zip tie through the wires and wrapped around the 2 plugs, then another one to be safe. It was fine for the rest of the time I owned it. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 18:08
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randomidiot posted:Okay. What was the original lean code, and is it a V6 or 4 cylinder? What brand sensor did you replace it with? I can't remember the specific code number, but the message was "Engine Running Lean Bank 1" I believe the brand was "Vinrold" and it is a 4 cylinder. Thanks. I was fairly sure it was connected but, I will definitely go back and confirm later today. It would be great if my idiocy was the only reason for the new error codes. Leon Trotsky 2012 fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 18:19
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So with a 4 cylinder, you will NEVER get anything related to "bank 2". Your engine is an inline 4 - the cylinders that line up are considered a "bank". V6, since it's split into a V shape, has 2 banks. (you may know this by now, but also mentioning it for the benefit of others) Triple check the connection. You will probably need to clear codes, though they may clear on their own if you drive for half an hour or so (get on a highway for a bit - see if the light goes out on its own.. if it doesn't, stomp it, look in your mirror for smoke). I'm assuming you have a code reader since you have all of this info (and it may be able to clear codes), but if not, disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for a few minutes might clear them. If not, grab this, install Torque for Android (or whatever OBD2 apps are out there for iOS if you're using an iPhone), and you should be able to do it. Note that older iPhones had bluetooth locked down to the point that one of those won't work, but there's wifi versions available that do work. I've never heard of that brand of sensor either. I believe either NTK or Denso made the original sensors; neither are horribly expensive on Amazon or Rockauto (use Rockauto to get the correct part number, price check against Amazon using the part number and making drat sure it's the same part number before ordering; if you have Prime, even if Amazon is a bit more expensive, it's often offset by fast free shipping). O2 sensors are one of those things where you really want to try to remain with whoever made the original one, or at least a quality name brand one (NTK or Denso for most Asian and American cars, Bosch for German - Nissan is a weird one that uses Bosch on some cars). EDIT: I just looked it up on Rockauto. NTK 25155 is the actual sensor used by Hyundai, and it's on wholesaler closeout for $25 + shipping. It'll probably show up in a generic box or something like Napa packaging (wholesaler closeout is often old parts store inventory), but that's what it had from the factory. It's ~$47 on Amazon and doesn't qualify for prime shipping, so Rockauto makes the most sense on this if you can't get the one you have working. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 18:33
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Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:I believe the brand was "Vinrold" Please do not buy amazon alphabet soup seller O2 sensors wtf.
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Sep 8, 2023 18:44
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That too. O2 is something you should always go at least name brand on, if not full OEM. totalnewbie has bashed that into our skulls repeatedly, and if anybody knows O2 sensors, it's them (I mean they kinda work for a major OEM in a way that's directly involved with this stuff). Rockauto often lists "Actual OE part" or "OE manufacturer" if you read through listings (which lets you bypass the dealer markup), but on most Asian makes, NTK or Denso are almost always the OEM for most sensors. MAF can be tricky; I've found GM, Nissan, and Ford use Hitachi on some stuff, and you save a lot (sometimes to the tune of $500+) by getting the Hitachi part (it looks identical to the OEM part when most aftermarket sensors don't, right down to the markings.. except they grind the OEM part number off). I only go Hitachi when I have a good indication that they're the OEM provider, but they've been in the MAF game for a very long time. There's times when parts wind up being cheaper at the dealer too - I've been pleasantly surprised by Toyota and Lexus dealers (brand new OEM Toyota starter for a 2008 2GR-equipped Lexus ES350 is $220 at a Lexus dealer; the cheapest reman from Advance Auto was $200). Courtesy Nissan (courtesyparts.com, pretty well respected for Nissan parts online) was local to me when I lived in Dallas, and would usually give you the online discount if you just asked for it. If they didn't, I just sat down in the waiting area, ordered the part online for local pickup, then walked back to the parts counter and said hi I'm here for order #66642069. If the parts counter person was being a dick and there wasn't anybody waiting behind me, I'd do it in front of them instead. BTW for OP's Hyundai, here's what Rockauto showed when I looked up their car - this, and knowing NTK and/or Denso are the OEM O2 sensor maker for most Asian cars, is why I felt confident in telling them to order it: 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 8, 2023 |
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Sep 8, 2023 18:51
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The vehicle: 2003 GMC Sonoma extended cab truck. I’m looking for the front bumper, specifically the actual metal bumper bolted to the frame that is underneath the plastic outer shell. I know a 1994 to 1998 Sonoma won’t work because the fronts are different from the visual refresh done in 1998 (and I’m sure I’ve seen pics of the bumper that doesn’t look like the one I pulled off), but what I want to know is that even though the 1998 to 2003 S-10s have a different grill and headlight setup from the Sonomas, are the metal bumpers still the same? Can I substitute an S-10 bumper for a Sonoma (again, this is the metal bumper underneath the plastic fascia “bumper”)? Also, I’ve seen some online talk mention the same bumper is used on early Chevy Trailblazers and GMC Envoys? Is this true? I wanna make sure if I can’t find an actual Sonoma bumper that there are other options I can look for at the pull-your-part auto wreckers. Donkey shine 
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Sep 8, 2023 19:07
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When selling a classic, that has a recent appraisal, should the seller reveal the appraisal details to prospective buyers? Specifically the final price, but what's the general best practice here?
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Sep 8, 2023 21:08
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AnnoyBot posted:When selling a classic, that has a recent appraisal, should the seller reveal the appraisal details to prospective buyers? Specifically the final price, but what's the general best practice here? You are under absolutely no implied requirement to share anything about price. You gain nothing from letting the buyer know, and lose a potential edge. I suppose if you are selling for less than the appraisal then it could work in your favor, but no, share nothing about the price. As for the rest of the appraisal sure, more info is always better I've found when selling.
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Sep 8, 2023 22:30
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