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ilmucche
Mar 16, 2016

What did you say the strategy was?

Chill la Chill posted:

Posted about it a couple weeks ago but grey Vallejo is terrible when brushed on.

Weirdly enough I found the grey not too bad. The white goes on really inconsistently though

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Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?


Got a cool mini off etsy pretty cheap, gonna use him as a Magus for the Cult.

He was feckin hard to paint with all those pipes goin everywhere!

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Southern Heel posted:



WIP Warmaster Chaos Dwarfs

I've got at least one strip per base done and painted, and though I still have another ~20 strips of painting to fill out both ranks, I feel this is the tipping point for an enjoyable game?any tips for Chaos Dwarf/Hobgoblin Banners?

The mere addition of the (WIP) General on Taurus pushes the army up to 1500pts which I'm quite happy with and though a few notional units would push to 2000pts, at that point I am almost certainly out of space to play, my only board being 3x3' - and the number of figures then required for my competing Undead army becomes quite egregious!

This is a great looking army. Tiny, terrifying giant hats. Military millinery at its finest.

Also, i think the comment about the madness of painting a whole army to test a new system was not intended as criticism as admiration and self-aware recognition that we’re all mad in this hobby. I know i am. And loving it.

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Xpost gunna give it to ya (Ala Heresy Thread):

Major Spag posted:

Heresy takes many forms. All of which need to be bonked.

My take on Blood Angel Inductii Despoilers.




SuperKlaus
Oct 20, 2005


Fun Shoe
I'd like to remove some superglue frosting (from Zap thin CA) and a small clump of glue from my guys. Google suggests distilled vinegar. Good idea?

dmnz
Feb 14, 2012

BNNRROWNWNWOWOWOWO

Southern Heel posted:



WIP Warmaster Chaos Dwarfs


Mate, your work here is *reeeeely* making me want to paint my WM High Elves, and I totally do not have time for that right now ><

Majkol
Oct 17, 2016
I could use some advice or ideas, hopefully this wise thread will provide some.
I am bulidng an SBGL army therefore I need zombies. I did find some alternative sculpts that Im going to mix in with the current GW ones but the bulk of them will still be official GW models. My problem is this. I loving hate that they have these branches and trees sticking out of them. My weird brain is refusing to accept them. They are not nearly decomposed enough to have these pretty big branches growing through them and theres just too much of it. Did some massive tree hedgehog roll through a battlefield and impale the dead on its tree-branch spikes? Are they supposed to be roots from when they were in the ground?
Here is a picture for reference.

Anyway, here are my options.
Suck it up, stop being weird and maybe paint them up like some weird blood magic thing that is actually powering them or something.
Suck it up, stop being weird and just paint them like branches, my army is winter themed so it might look alright with some snow on them?
Cut and convert as many of them as possible so that the effect is at least lessened. The issue with this is that its going to be like 80 ( I am not going to go for the current metabreaker of 200 with an excepted nerf on the horizon ) of them and the branches are pretty elaborately woven into the models so its going to be a massive workload for what is going to be a bunch of basic dudes.
Some other thing Im not thinking of.
Opinions?

hoiyes
May 17, 2007
I felt the same when idly considering a SBGL army, and the Mantic zombies, although slightly more ghoulish, seemed like a better alternative.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

I had a similar issue with the Cursed City zombies, which also have the silly shark-fin gravestone look going. My solution was to pretend they're necromanctic zombie roots, and paint them glowing green.

Majkol
Oct 17, 2016

hoiyes posted:

I felt the same when idly considering a SBGL army, and the Mantic zombies, although slightly more ghoulish, seemed like a better alternative.

I am not huge fan of those either and I was able to score a very good deal on two Veremords Shamblers boxes ( 20 zombos + a corpse cart ) so at the least, I need to do something about 40 of them.

Radiation Cow posted:

I had a similar issue with the Cursed City zombies, which also have the silly shark-fin gravestone look going. My solution was to pretend they're necromanctic zombie roots, and paint them glowing green.

Do you have any pictures?

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Hey guys, I think I finished my Broodlord, but I'm not sure what to do beyond what I did, I havent varnished it yet, can I get some thoughts, comments and critiques?













Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Majkol posted:

I am not huge fan of those either and I was able to score a very good deal on two Veremords Shamblers boxes ( 20 zombos + a corpse cart ) so at the least, I need to do something about 40 of them.

Do you have any pictures?

Sorry for the shocking quality photos. I really half assed them because I really didn't like the aesthetic. Thinking I may need to revisit them at some point.

Majkol
Oct 17, 2016

Radiation Cow posted:

Sorry for the shocking quality photos. I really half assed them because I really didn't like the aesthetic. Thinking I may need to revisit them at some point.


Thanks! In the meantime I just decided to grit my teeth and just chop it all off and convert the ones that carry the dumb stuff on their backs to be mostly standing. It was not as much work as I thought in the end and Im much happier with them now.

Majkol fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Sep 8, 2023

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Majkol posted:

Are they supposed to be roots from when they were in the ground?

fwiw yeah, thematically they go with a villain in cursed city who buried his victims alive in a magic garden

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
Could always do the Elden Ring thing and paint them like the literal Death Roots that cause undeath in that setting. Black with a bit of gold luminescence.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

Could always do the Elden Ring thing and paint them like the literal Death Roots that cause undeath in that setting. Black with a bit of gold luminescence.

I'm going to steal this idea for my second batch of CC zombies.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Calling my first Bretonnian done. Not the happiest with this but I was working on it throughout the work day in between meetings so I wasn't super focused.

gameraMan
Dec 16, 2008

Aaaaaaagh!

Majkol posted:

I could use some advice or ideas, hopefully this wise thread will provide some.
...
Suck it up, stop being weird and maybe paint them up like some weird blood magic thing that is actually powering them or something.
Suck it up, stop being weird and just paint them like branches, my army is winter themed so it might look alright with some snow on them?
...

It's funny I had a similar line of thought after my son bought me this set for xmas last year, though I ended up going a different way - I thought I'd build an environment around the figs (since they did look sort of odd just standing around with branches coming out of them). So I built up a whole graveyard setting as part of a painting oath:





And as I dug in to painting them, I finally realized they weren't just dudes coming out of the grave - most were spiked right into the ground, and my own assumption/story was that they were already undead that had been captured and re-buried for a while (and thus the branches growing through them).

Cease to Hope posted:

fwiw yeah, thematically they go with a villain in cursed city who buried his victims alive in a magic garden

That's useful to know...

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
It's really hard to paint when any temperature over 21 degrees gives me the shakes. We've had the wettest summer on record and the hottest September aughh

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Finishing off my 15mm Warmaster Orks.

Gobbo on a Wyvern


Trolls


Goblin Wolf Riders


Gonna make the camp next then call it done. After that hundreds and hundreds of Rats!

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
I've been finding my GW Wraith Bone spray is coming out a bit powdery lately. Can has definitely been fine before and I'm giving it a good shake, could it just be that it's been hot as balls lately?

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

BizarroAzrael posted:

I've been finding my GW Wraith Bone spray is coming out a bit powdery lately. Can has definitely been fine before and I'm giving it a good shake, could it just be that it's been hot as balls lately?

Absolutely, heat will make it dry en route through the air and leave your model speckly.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

BizarroAzrael posted:

I've been finding my GW Wraith Bone spray is coming out a bit powdery lately. Can has definitely been fine before and I'm giving it a good shake, could it just be that it's been hot as balls lately?

And if your hot weather is similar to what we've been having, its also humid as gently caress which also does not help.

hoiyes
May 17, 2007
Painted up some dothraki screamers from the Song of Ice and Fire game. It's a nice change of pace to paint something that's not heroic scale.

FrostyPox
Feb 8, 2012

Southern Heel posted:

Forget proxies - I could just use plain MDF bases with felt-tipped marker unit designations - but if we're going down that instrumentalist philosophy then it'd be better done on a computer or purely as a mathematical exercise.

I can see a justification for empty bases with NATO symbols, or proxies, or whatever if you have a desperate need to field an army for a game with a friend who doesn't have enough, or for a battle that was a result of some strategic coup on your part that involves more troops than you have available - but for me I'm under no pressure for time (and space constraints are largely moot in 10mm) so I'm happy (particularly with 3D printing) to at least have broadly the correct miniatures.

I am absolutely happy to proxy my ECW Pikeman as Empire Halberdiers or my 2mm Napoleonic Russians as British American troops or whatever (and indeed, using Chaos Dwarfs in Dragon Rampant has heavy missiles, etc.) - but part of the reason I'm playing a miniature game is to have figures on the table, otherwise see point 1 above: I've only actually played one game with my 8mm space marines/tyranids but they were no less enjoyable to model and use for it.


WIP Warmaster Chaos Dwarfs

I've got at least one strip per base done and painted, and though I still have another ~20 strips of painting to fill out both ranks, I feel this is the tipping point for an enjoyable game?any tips for Chaos Dwarf/Hobgoblin Banners?

The mere addition of the (WIP) General on Taurus pushes the army up to 1500pts which I'm quite happy with and though a few notional units would push to 2000pts, at that point I am almost certainly out of space to play, my only board being 3x3' - and the number of figures then required for my competing Undead army becomes quite egregious!

These loving rule and remind me how much I miss Chaos Dwarfs and how if they brought them back for Age of Sigmar I'd play Age of Sigmar and I don't even really like AoS

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

SiKboy posted:

And if your hot weather is similar to what we've been having, its also humid as gently caress which also does not help.

Will airbrushing base colours work okay, with a bit of water? Not done it before, feel like it might need a fair bit of the pot to get decent coverage.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Thank you all for the very kind comments about my chaos dwarfs - I managed to get the last lick of base coat on today so they are table ready!

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

BizarroAzrael posted:

Will airbrushing base colours work okay, with a bit of water? Not done it before, feel like it might need a fair bit of the pot to get decent coverage.

Rattle cans I can help with, airbrushing not so much! All I got is "try it and let us know" I'm afraid, as I've got next to no airbrush experience.

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



I was given a pot of Tamiya clear red, and I'm having a real time wrangling this stuff. I love the glossy, transparent look, but it's viscous like honey almost, and in the current heat here in Denmark, it feels like it's drying on the brush before I even touch plastic. Slight exaggeration, but there's like zero working time with it. How the heck do I use this stuff?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

inscrutable horse posted:

I was given a pot of Tamiya clear red, and I'm having a real time wrangling this stuff. I love the glossy, transparent look, but it's viscous like honey almost, and in the current heat here in Denmark, it feels like it's drying on the brush before I even touch plastic. Slight exaggeration, but there's like zero working time with it. How the heck do I use this stuff?

You're expected to thin it before use and it's not intended for brush painting.
The general guideline is to thin it ~3:1 with the specific Tamyia thinner, as i recall you can open up a new bottle and then fill it to the brim with thinner and it's the right amount.

Through an airbrush it's spectacular, spray it over Silver or Gold basecoats to get amazingly rich metallic reds.

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



2 more Terminators to go and the backlog is done. Experimented with leaving some plates black to see how that would look and am not the biggest fan, but I do really like the black helmet.

Nazzadan fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Sep 11, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




Batch Painting FTW

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

inscrutable horse posted:

I was given a pot of Tamiya clear red, and I'm having a real time wrangling this stuff. I love the glossy, transparent look, but it's viscous like honey almost, and in the current heat here in Denmark, it feels like it's drying on the brush before I even touch plastic. Slight exaggeration, but there's like zero working time with it. How the heck do I use this stuff?

flow improver will help with brush painting! its alcohol based which evaporates super quickly

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



Bucnasti posted:

You're expected to thin it before use and it's not intended for brush painting.
The general guideline is to thin it ~3:1 with the specific Tamyia thinner, as i recall you can open up a new bottle and then fill it to the brim with thinner and it's the right amount.

Through an airbrush it's spectacular, spray it over Silver or Gold basecoats to get amazingly rich metallic reds.

Paragon8 posted:

flow improver will help with brush painting! its alcohol based which evaporates super quickly
Oooh, thanks so much you two! Getting an airbrush is way out of my budget atm, especially for a gift pot of paint, but for small scale details it shouldn't matter too much, right? Something like space marine pauldrons and the like.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

inscrutable horse posted:

Oooh, thanks so much you two! Getting an airbrush is way out of my budget atm, especially for a gift pot of paint, but for small scale details it shouldn't matter too much, right? Something like space marine pauldrons and the like.

It'll be a bit fiddly but its possible! I have enough acrylics from other brands that I haven't really played around much with it myself. I forget why I ended up researching it but did a little digging on brush painting with it.

A lot of Japanese hobbyists especially will brush paint with tamiya. There should be a few youtube videos or forum posts on brush painting tamiya acrylics but basically the key is slowing the drying time with a flow improver or retarder.

Tamiya Clear red is getting a lot of press atm with mini paintings for effects like blood. I'm not sure how an entire basecoat would go but that's the fun of a gift pot! Try out some different things and see how it works.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

inscrutable horse posted:

Oooh, thanks so much you two! Getting an airbrush is way out of my budget atm, especially for a gift pot of paint, but for small scale details it shouldn't matter too much, right? Something like space marine pauldrons and the like.

Yeah, to be clear, just because it wasn't intended for brush painting doesn't mean you can't use it that way, just expect to have to do some experimentation to get the effects you want. Just be aware of what it was made for so you can work around those conditions.
It's intended use is as a topcoat over a base to give a deep glossy finish like on a scale automobile, but that doesn't mean you can't use it for blood, or tinting metal, as a filter over yellow to get glossy orange or whatever crazy idea you come up with.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Am I being incredibly dense or is macragge blue significantly darker than the blue depicted in gws photos of their modern ultramarine range? I know they often fudge the exact colours when they put out guidance because the studio painters often use blends but even the ex eavy metal guys are insisting that in this case it’s straight macragge blue. I honestly double checked I hadn’t pulled out a pot of Kantor blue by mistake. :psyduck:

Mr Teatime fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Sep 11, 2023

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Modern ultramarines are way darker than you think. Also once you do three rounds of edge highlights it looks brighter than you originally thought

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

The lesson here is to just stop thinking and paint.

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Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Spanish Manlove posted:

Modern ultramarines are way darker than you think. Also once you do three rounds of edge highlights it looks brighter than you originally thought

Yeah honestly I took some photos to illustrate but of course even on my phone the drat blue looks far brighter than in person, bloody camera trickery. Honestly I’ve been painting for awhile without ever touching ultramarines and I think due to their ubiquitous nature in gw material I had a very fixed imagine in my head of how bright they’re “supposed” to look.

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