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XYZAB
Jun 29, 2003

HNNNNNGG!!

Hadlock posted:

Previous shop lost my wheel lock to my stock factory rims

Any reason not to just replace the lock with a regular fastener

I park the car in my fairly steep driveway and wheel theft in my neighborhood is low too non-existent

Locking lugnut sets are cheap on Rockauto. But also I loving hate when poo poo like that happens. I took one of my summer wheels in to have the tire repaired and the motherfuckers stole my chrome valve cap and replaced it with a lovely plastic one, but I didnt realize it until the next day, and then what am I going to do? Drive back there and waste an hour complaining about them losing/keeping a $3 part?

Drives me loving nuts.

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Well we thought it was a size 31 lock since it was a tight fit, but after my second trip to the dealership turns out it was a size 33. With the 31 if you actually put a socket on it it would just spin. 90 minutes down the drain ferrying a $19.99 part across town and back loving gently caress gently caress the tire rack preferred installer managed to be the furthest distance from the nearest dealership :suicide:

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

In January I drove my 2012 Toyota Corolla down an icy embankment. Incredibly it was completely undamaged, except that in towing it back up to the road, the tow line split the bumper in half. The mechanic zip tied it together, and I'm still driving on the broken bumper eight months later.

I don't do any car stuff on my own, not even changing my oil. But I'm thinking that buying a replacement bumper myself and installing it (or at least buying it myself and then taking it to the shop) is something I can do. I'm finding that it's easy to find by googling, but that all the options do not come painted. So that would be an additional thing to do, to get it painted which I am not going to do myself.

Bottom line here, what is the most cost effective approach to getting a new bumper, for someone like me with no idea what to do? Should I just go to a body shop and get them to do everything?

If you can't find a junkyard bumper of the same color, there's always the "just don't paint it" option. it's a bumper cover, after all. some real low-budget cars even come from the factory with them unpainted, cause the poo poo gets bumped

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe

VelociBacon posted:

Good username/post combo!

Please consider whether you really want to be filling that up with current gas prices and also please consider The Environment and whether a big V8 is necessary for your dadtaxi. Maybe a more typical longer sedan would be easier to get around in and way easier on the wallet?

Boy howdy I really don't want to be filling up a V8 at today's prices, no, so anything relatively plush and reliable and isolated would fit the bill, sedans preferred.

A Cadillac XTS or Buick Lacrosse would also work but they seem to be in demand.

Anything from Toyota/Lexus commands a premium.

I should look at the Acura RL/RLX models...

A softer spec of 5 Series or E Class would work, but the repair bills could add up.

Twerk from Home posted:

I've been looking at the early Hyundai Genesis too just out of curiosity, it seems to be cheaper than anything else comparable. What other long, comfortable cars should it be shopped against under $10k? When they're that cheap the theoretical savings vs buying anything else would cover a lot of gas, and in theory a non-turbo V8 with a traditional auto has less to go wrong compared to anything with turbos or even a hybrid system / battery.





Edit: Its platform-mate the Kia K900 is dirt cheap too.

I agree, they're so cheap I'm wondering what's already broken.

zachol
Feb 13, 2009

Once per turn, you can Tribute 1 WATER monster you control (except this card) to Special Summon 1 WATER monster from your hand. The monster Special Summoned by this effect is destroyed if "Raging Eria" is removed from your side of the field.
Cross post from the general stupid questions thread, should've thought of just starting here, sorry.
An insured driver hit my two parked cars, severely damaging the back of one and mildly damaging the side of another. The second one is (was) my backup and is now my only car, including for a daily commute, and is a 96 GMC Jimmy SUV.
They're saying that the backup is totaled and are offering full ACV. I'm in New Mexico. I frankly would rather just keep the thing, I like it, even with the smashed door. Unless the ACV is like $2k+ it won't be enough to replace it in practical terms, regardless of its "actual value."
My understanding is that if I accept the ACV minus the scrap price I keep the car but it gets a salvage title and cannot be insured or legally driven until I change it to a "rebuilt" title, which involves an inspection and all sorts of bullshit. A lot of places say I need to have it repaired but I think that's working from the assumption it was wrecked, and I feel it's driveable. Or, it's possible that the frame actually was slightly bent and it'll be declared turbofucked, although that door does open so I'm pretty sure the frame is fine? Eugh.
I'm way more concerned with the nicer yet emotionally extremely unimportant first car that was probably also totaled for a somewhat higher ACV (2007 Chevy Trailblazer). Frankly I'd rather just ignore the settlement for the backup car, or at worst delay it until I can get a replacement for the first.
Have they already reported the thing as totaled, or is that only if I accept the settlement? Is there a magic set of words to say "let's deal with the first one and revisit this one in like three months after I have an actual running main car"? Or even just "let's ignore this car, it's fine, I don't want any money"?

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

Really depends on if it passes New Mexico inspections. If yes I'd take the rebuilt title and keep driving it.

Geico insures salvage/rebuilt titles cars if you current insurance doesn't.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Should I get sun shades (the shiny ones that fold out and go over your front windsheidl) or an all-around ceramic window tint? I'll be getting a 2nd vehicle it will sit outside in an un-sheltered parking lot all day and it would be nice not to get into an oven at the end of each workday. I have a Weathertech sun shade for our other vehicle and it does great. But the Sienna is such a longer vehicle with bigger windows so I feel like a sun shade on the windshield may not cut it.

edit: will probably go front sun shade + all around tint since I'm pretty sure I can't tint the windshield where I live

Ok Comboomer posted:

you're way likelier to have your catalytic converter stolen than your rims these days
And security lug nuts won't do anything to deter a thief who really wants your rims. If anything they're more likely to make it difficult for you, the owner, to remove your wheels at a time where you really need to remove your wheels.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Feb 21, 2024

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Both, but you probably can't legally tint your windshield without a dr's note.

Ask the dealer about adding remote start (a factory kit, not aftermarket) if it doesn't already have it. There's usually aftermarket ones that just plug in and let you use it with your factory keyfobs too; you just don't want one that requires any splicing of wires.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

melon cat posted:

edit: will probably go front sun shade + all around tint since I'm pretty sure I can't tint the windshield where I live

This is pretty much the legal way to do it anywhere. Federally, windshield tint isn't supposed to go lower than the AS1 line, but states can have a smaller limit.

Depending where you live, the cops might not care or know where the AS1 line is on your ride.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

also if you or an immediate family member are cops themselves, any tint is legal in all jurisdictions

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
The goon is from Ontario, the Canadian one.

I'm pretty sure windshield tint here is illegal just based on the fact that I never see it aside from a couple strips at the bottom and top, but even those are extremely rare. And probably of dubious legality themselves.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

While I was at the dealership getting a replacement key, I got four lug bolts for like, $25 all in, and had the tire shop put them in place of the lock one. The rear tires are due for replacement in about six to nine months so I can reverse it then if I really feel like it

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

The goon is from Ontario, the Canadian one.

I'm pretty sure windshield tint here is illegal just based on the fact that I never see it aside from a couple strips at the bottom and top, but even those are extremely rare. And probably of dubious legality themselves.

Sorry where is the other Ontario???

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry where is the other Ontario???

California, for one. Also Oregon.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Deteriorata posted:

California, for one. Also Oregon.

It really bothers me that there are two Ontario, CAs.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Deteriorata posted:

California, for one. Also Oregon.
When I was a kid I was flying out to visit my grandparents in the LA area and had a bit of a meltdown in the middle of O'Hare about how I was supposed to be going to California, not Canada.

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
Has anyone ever heard of "Stick Shift Driving Academy"? I saw them on Indeed while looking for jobs, and it seems legit but also everything is a scam these days.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

zachol posted:

Cross post from the general stupid questions thread, should've thought of just starting here, sorry.
An insured driver hit my two parked cars, severely damaging the back of one and mildly damaging the side of another. The second one is (was) my backup and is now my only car, including for a daily commute, and is a 96 GMC Jimmy SUV.
They're saying that the backup is totaled and are offering full ACV. I'm in New Mexico. I frankly would rather just keep the thing, I like it, even with the smashed door. Unless the ACV is like $2k+ it won't be enough to replace it in practical terms, regardless of its "actual value."
My understanding is that if I accept the ACV minus the scrap price I keep the car but it gets a salvage title and cannot be insured or legally driven until I change it to a "rebuilt" title, which involves an inspection and all sorts of bullshit. A lot of places say I need to have it repaired but I think that's working from the assumption it was wrecked, and I feel it's driveable. Or, it's possible that the frame actually was slightly bent and it'll be declared turbofucked, although that door does open so I'm pretty sure the frame is fine? Eugh.
I'm way more concerned with the nicer yet emotionally extremely unimportant first car that was probably also totaled for a somewhat higher ACV (2007 Chevy Trailblazer). Frankly I'd rather just ignore the settlement for the backup car, or at worst delay it until I can get a replacement for the first.
Have they already reported the thing as totaled, or is that only if I accept the settlement? Is there a magic set of words to say "let's deal with the first one and revisit this one in like three months after I have an actual running main car"? Or even just "let's ignore this car, it's fine, I don't want any money"?

Just fight them on the value of the one you want to delay, it took about three months for Progressive to pay out on my F-150 when it was totaled because they low balled me by like 8 grand.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug
Anyone recognize this weird-rear end connector I found on the back of a '97 Nissan Pickup? It leads to two 12-gauge cables that run up to the cab and terminate into a 4-prong connector, which the other half of the connector goes back out to the engine bay and to the battery, none of which is connected. I'm not sure why the PO didn't rip it out, but it's there. Coincidentally, there were also two screws into the dashboard where one would normally attach a trailer brake setup, which is what I'm assuming this is part of. Not sure why they didn't just use a 7-pin connector if it is a trailer brake, though.



The PO looks to have added a winch power connector from the battery to the back of the truck, which I assume was for a small trailer winch or an RV hookup, or something. Also, the PO managed to goof the 4-pin wiring so hard that plugging in my trailer caused the ABS and Brake lights to permanently illuminate along with zero brake and turn signal lights on the trailer. :shepface: Thank God the factory service manual is easily found online.

Edit:

DildenAnders posted:

Has anyone ever heard of "Stick Shift Driving Academy"? I saw them on Indeed while looking for jobs, and it seems legit but also everything is a scam these days.

Reading their website, it looks like you'd be like a contract teacher giving lessons in your own car to teach people how to drive stick. Given the cost and pain in the rear end of changing clutches, I don't think I'd ever agree to sign up to teach something like that.

That said, if you're looking to learn, the best thing to do is 1) buy a lovely old car, 2) get it to a parking lot, and 3) go.

funeral home DJ fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Sep 19, 2023

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

funeral home DJ posted:

Anyone recognize this weird-rear end connector I found on the back of a '97 Nissan Pickup? It leads to two 12-gauge cables that run up to the cab and terminate into a 4-prong connector, which the other half of the connector goes back out to the engine bay and to the battery, none of which is connected. I'm not sure why the PO didn't rip it out, but it's there. Coincidentally, there were also two screws into the dashboard where one would normally attach a trailer brake setup, which is what I'm assuming this is part of. Not sure why they didn't just use a 7-pin connector if it is a trailer brake, though.



I have no idea if this is the correct name for it, but I've seen the male version of that and I've heard it referred to as a "series 2" connector.

Problem is when I was looking for a corresponding female connector, a search for "series 2" turned up exactly jack fuckin poo poo.

So uhhh.... I guess that doesn't help much.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Looks like a NEMA 2-20R. guess PO had some homebrew 12V devices that they could terminate with the matching plug and plug it all in without popping the hood?

Whatever it is, it's a janky setup.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

I have no idea if this is the correct name for it, but I've seen the male version of that and I've heard it referred to as a "series 2" connector.

Problem is when I was looking for a corresponding female connector, a search for "series 2" turned up exactly jack fuckin poo poo.

So uhhh.... I guess that doesn't help much.

I looked up the connector youre talking about and stumbled upon a series 250 connector. While I definitely see the visual similarity between the 250 connector two way design, the female receptacles are square and not rounded.

Bajaha posted:

Looks like a NEMA 2-20R. guess PO had some homebrew 12V devices that they could terminate with the matching plug and plug it all in without popping the hood?

Whatever it is, it's a janky setup.

Yeah Ill be cutting it all out, I was just curious as to what this poor truck did before I took ownership. I initially thought it was a plow and salt truck, but the lack of rust on the frame and body says otherwise.

People are weird with mods and now I get why the ABS computer seemingly exploded upon me plugging in the 4-pin trailer harness. The wiring is all janked up, everywhere.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

funeral home DJ posted:

Reading their website, it looks like you'd be like a contract teacher giving lessons in your own car to teach people how to drive stick. Given the cost and pain in the rear end of changing clutches, I don't think I'd ever agree to sign up to teach something like that.

That said, if you're looking to learn, the best thing to do is 1) buy a lovely old car, 2) get it to a parking lot, and 3) go.

yeah you'd be a 1099 which means you can expect half of whatever you make to go to taxes, and also all gas and repairs have to come out of the resulting $18.75/hr. And you have to leave half your week open for bookings. working for these kinds of Uber For Cats places is virtually always a scam

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer
car: 99 Honda Accord. Took her in to the shop because I smelled gas but didn't see any leaks. Turns out the case was cracked at the top, so there wouldn't be much hitting the ground for me to see. They also replaced my serpentine belt, which hadn't been done before since I owned the car, about 5-6 years?

I didn't hear any squealing or chirps from the belt until they replaced it. Now when I start the car, I get the telltale squeals for about 5-10 seconds. It doesn't happen every time. I got the repairs done Monday; the shop told me if I still hear poo poo, to bring her back in Saturday so they can check it over, that sometimes belts need to "work out the tightness" which seems like bs to me. A coworker told me to use WD40 to fix the noise (literally the first google hit says never to do this) but is the mechanic loving me around with this?

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Cowslips Warren posted:

car: 99 Honda Accord. Took her in to the shop because I smelled gas but didn't see any leaks. Turns out the case was cracked at the top, so there wouldn't be much hitting the ground for me to see. They also replaced my serpentine belt, which hadn't been done before since I owned the car, about 5-6 years?

I didn't hear any squealing or chirps from the belt until they replaced it. Now when I start the car, I get the telltale squeals for about 5-10 seconds. It doesn't happen every time. I got the repairs done Monday; the shop told me if I still hear poo poo, to bring her back in Saturday so they can check it over, that sometimes belts need to "work out the tightness" which seems like bs to me. A coworker told me to use WD40 to fix the noise (literally the first google hit says never to do this) but is the mechanic loving me around with this?

Yeah, definitely don't spray WD40 on it.
Sometimes it just takes the belt squeal a bit to work out, I think our Element did that the last time I replaced the belt.
Our Subaru often gets squealy, and typically what it needs is the accessory belt tension tightened since it doesn't have a self tensioner on that belt.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Cowslips Warren posted:

car: 99 Honda Accord. Took her in to the shop because I smelled gas but didn't see any leaks. Turns out the case was cracked at the top, so there wouldn't be much hitting the ground for me to see. They also replaced my serpentine belt, which hadn't been done before since I owned the car, about 5-6 years?

I didn't hear any squealing or chirps from the belt until they replaced it. Now when I start the car, I get the telltale squeals for about 5-10 seconds. It doesn't happen every time. I got the repairs done Monday; the shop told me if I still hear poo poo, to bring her back in Saturday so they can check it over, that sometimes belts need to "work out the tightness" which seems like bs to me. A coworker told me to use WD40 to fix the noise (literally the first google hit says never to do this) but is the mechanic loving me around with this?

Take it back.

My sons 00 Accord 4-cyl did this on the power-steering belt after we swapped out the engine. We tightened it a couple times but we were hesitant to go ham because too much tension can burn out the bearing on the pump. Turns out it takes a fair bit of tension to work out that squeak.

No Wd-40, your co-worker should be ignored. They have a spray-on belt dressing but no quick fix is permanent. I have smeared on pumice hand cleaner & hosed it off while running, to act as a glaze-breaker.

central dogma
Feb 25, 2012

Come to the Undead Settlement in the next 20 mins if u want an ash kicking
Here's a stupid question. I have a Volvo XC40 that I bought new in April. Has 5,000 miles on it now. The past couple days I've been smelling fuel near the front cabin of the car. No smell in the engine bay. No puddle on the garage floor or parking lots, so whatever the leak is seems to be slow.

It's under warranty of course, but I can't get the car in for a couple weeks. Anything I should check in the meantime? It's a new car, so I'd be shocked to find something worn out already.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I'd probably raise more of a fuss to get it in. Fuel leaks are generally bad.

central dogma
Feb 25, 2012

Come to the Undead Settlement in the next 20 mins if u want an ash kicking

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I'd probably raise more of a fuss to get it in. Fuel leaks are generally bad.

Ah, I'm leaving the country for work in a couple days and won't be back for a while. Volvo also said bring the sucker in, to their defense.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If they told you to bring it in and you didn't, and it catches on fire or something, I wouldn't want to deal with how that goes.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

central dogma posted:

Ah, I'm leaving the country for work in a couple days and won't be back for a while. Volvo also said bring the sucker in, to their defense.

Take it in before you go and leave it. They'll fix it when they can and it will be ready when you get back. Work it out with them.

If you're going to be gone longer than they want to hold onto it, get a relative or a friend to pick it up for you.

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)



central dogma posted:

Here's a stupid question. I have a Volvo XC40 that I bought new in April. Has 5,000 miles on it now. The past couple days I've been smelling fuel near the front cabin of the car. No smell in the engine bay. No puddle on the garage floor or parking lots, so whatever the leak is seems to be slow.

It's under warranty of course, but I can't get the car in for a couple weeks. Anything I should check in the meantime? It's a new car, so I'd be shocked to find something worn out already.

Have you noticed any patterns or situational stuff when this happens? Such as did you fill the car up recently? Or does this happen with a lower level of fuel?

A lot of times Ive seen this where people top up their fuel tanks after the pumps auto shut off. Dont do this, it messes with a charcoal canister thing and will cause issues not unlike youre describing. Once the pump turns off the fuel tank is full. Dont be the idiot that keeps clicking it to get their aesthetic number on the pump.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Somewhat Heroic posted:

Don’t be the idiot that keeps clicking it to get their aesthetic number on the pump.

Hey I don't tell you how to live YOUR life

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Cowslips Warren posted:

car: 99 Honda Accord. Took her in to the shop because I smelled gas but didn't see any leaks. Turns out the case was cracked at the top, so there wouldn't be much hitting the ground for me to see. They also replaced my serpentine belt, which hadn't been done before since I owned the car, about 5-6 years?

On the 4 cylinder version, there isn't a serpentine belt - there's individual belts for everything. If it's the V6, then yes, you do have a serpentine belt.

Either way, you shouldn't ever hear squealing. Either the automatic tensioner is bad (V6) or they didn't adjust the tension on individual belts properly (4 cylinder).

WD40 will destroy belts.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Sep 21, 2023

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

CRC make belt conditioner. Whether or not it does anything useful, I cant say. It made my serpentine belt stop squeaking, but it was routine to apply it once a week for a month or two.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Belts don't squeak if there's nothing wrong and my inclination would be to check their tension, check they're the correct belt, and go from there.

central dogma
Feb 25, 2012

Come to the Undead Settlement in the next 20 mins if u want an ash kicking
I'm dropping off the Volvo tomorrow. I'll update here after I find out what's wrong. I didn't think to just leave it there while I was gone, so thank you goons looking out for my safety.

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023
I've had three different mechanics over the course of two years tell me there's nothing wrong with my squeaking belt and to ignore it. It stops squeaking)squealing after about five minutes of driving. Just keep shopping for new mechanics til someone fixes it? This is on a V6 07 Ford fusion.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

central dogma posted:

I'm dropping off the Volvo tomorrow. I'll update here after I find out what's wrong. I didn't think to just leave it there while I was gone, so thank you goons looking out for my safety.

I know you're not going to be around but you're likely entitled to a loaner car until they get yours done. Even if you don't need it, having something of theirs can help your car from being the one at the bottom of the list that they'll put off getting to.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





trevorreznik posted:

I've had three different mechanics over the course of two years tell me there's nothing wrong with my squeaking belt and to ignore it. It stops squeaking)squealing after about five minutes of driving. Just keep shopping for new mechanics til someone fixes it? This is on a V6 07 Ford fusion.

These mechanics are idiots in one of two ways. Either one, they think a squeaking belt is fine and are doing absolutely no work to figure it out. Or two, they have a reasonable cause in mind already but expect the cost of fixing it right to be prohibitively expensive to the owner of a 15-year-old Ford, and are idiots for not explaining it properly.

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