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Queadlunn
Dec 10, 2005

Yak Deculture!
Fallen Rib

DrHammond posted:

Do any Gunpla kits use ABS? I'm a dumb mech/anime enjoyer, not a materials engineer.

Not sure about ABS, there might be a bit. It's sometimes marked on the sprue's tag what material it is, if it's not standard styrene.

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Diet Poison
Jan 20, 2008

LICK MY ASS
I am positive I have seen a runner marked ABS before, but I also don't think it's very common, and where I saw it may have been on an ancient kit.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
Yes, you'll find ABS in frame parts. Also Polypropylene. The runners are all labeled.

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

It's also usually labled on the first page of the instructions where the runners are shown below the explanations for symbols you'll may see used for certain steps of the build.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I only came across abs on an ancient 1999 kit.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012



Synthbuttrange posted:

I only came across abs on an ancient 1999 kit.

I had several runners of the stuff for my Delta Plus MG.

http://dalong.net/reviews/mg/m146/m146_i.htm#r

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Synthbuttrange posted:

I only came across abs on an ancient 1999 kit.
It's a lot more common than that. For instance I've literally just now finished a HG from 2003 that has ABS for inner parts.

Also the Z'gok you built and posted last page has ABS in it, friend

E: The HG Acguy from 2007 also has ABS. I currently don't own any HG kits that are newer to check further :v:

Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Sep 13, 2023

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Thats what i meant. The Zgok is from 1999 and the only one ive seen with abs so far. Ive only recently gotten into gunpla

Gripweed
Nov 8, 2018

There should be more Gundams with abs.

DrHammond
Nov 8, 2011


No because then I'll have to topcoat before I panel line, but I don't want to panel line when there are already decals on, and I want my topcoat over my decals!

I have no idea what I'm doing.

E: MY GUNPLA LOOK FUKKIN SICK THO

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Synthbuttrange posted:

Thats what i meant. The Zgok is from 1999 and the only one ive seen with abs so far. Ive only recently gotten into gunpla
Oh, got ya! I only have the red version of the Z'gok which is from 2001. Thought both versions were closer together

Gripweed posted:

There should be more Gundams with abs.
Cho aniki crossover when??

chrome line
Oct 13, 2022
I'm pretty sure the F91 2.0 uses ABS for the inner frame and that's from like 2018. It's because a lot of the internal frame is reused, but it happens

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

A lot of MGs used ABS for the inner frame partly because it's somewhat denser than PS so it gives it a bit more heft.

I remember a complaint with the later release of the MG Sinanju was they switched from ABS to PS for the frame which made it slightly less stable without the giant Katoki legs weighing it down.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Thats what surprised me about the abs runners, they were noticably heavier than the usual ones. The lack of heft to gunpla is one thing that bothers me about it. Wonder if I can load up parts with putty and shot for some heft.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
You can weigh down any open cavity with sufficiently-clever applications of paste and lead weights. Also your robots.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"
Goddamn I am loving cursed lately. The right upper arm joint on my RG God Gundam just came away clean like it was nothing as I was putting it down carefully in the exact same way my Moderoid Valimar did. Anyone got a recommendation for a replacement runner service that might reach Australia, or am I looking at getting a whole other kit just for one part? :sigh:

Also who designs a shoulder joint that thin, shame on you Bandai, you're better than this! :argh:

Foglet
Jun 17, 2014

Reality is an illusion.
The universe is a hologram.
Buy gold.

Neddy Seagoon posted:

Anyone got a recommendation for a replacement runner service that might reach Australia, or am I looking at getting a whole other kit just for one part? :sigh:

There are ebay and aliexpress vendors dealing in gunpla spare parts. They usually do international shipping. Won't be cheap, but probably still cheaper than purchasing a complete new set.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Foglet posted:

There are ebay and aliexpress vendors dealing in gunpla spare parts. They usually do international shipping. Won't be cheap, but probably still cheaper than purchasing a complete new set.

I could use a link to one, because a quick eBay search isn't turning up anything.

Foglet
Jun 17, 2014

Reality is an illusion.
The universe is a hologram.
Buy gold.

Neddy Seagoon posted:

I could use a link to one, because a quick eBay search isn't turning up anything.

Off the top of my head, those two that I have personally bought from:
https://www.ebay.com/str/mrbaosshop
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005435585751.html

Napoleon Nelson
Nov 8, 2012


I've also used Mr Bao's shop with good results. Solid communication and was even able to get some first-run parts for random kits.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Foglet posted:

Off the top of my head, those two that I have personally bought from:
https://www.ebay.com/str/mrbaosshop
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005435585751.html

Ooh cheers! God Gundam runners are out of stock, but I'll keep that one bookmarked regardless.

DrHammond
Nov 8, 2011


High jank level and YMMV based on specific placement, but when I accidentally snapped the inner frame on the arm of my RG Char's Zaku, I was able to get it back together with some JB Weld to good effect. Used a toothpick to very carefully apply as much as I could where I thought I had space for support, and as little as I thought I could get away with where it might cause clearance problems. After curing a hobby knife effectively shaved down excess. Worked great in my case.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

If using oil paints for weathering, how long should they be left to dry? Oils do have a longer drying time on canvas but I imagine its much shorter for the smaller amounts weathering uses?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
24 hours is generally a good minimum time. They stay pretty pliable and oily for a while, even once most of your solvent evaporates out.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

grassy gnoll posted:

24 hours is generally a good minimum time. They stay pretty pliable and oily for a while, even once most of your solvent evaporates out.

Thanks. Seems less than ideal if you want a one day build or something. Going to give enamel + thinner a try on a coated model and see, since mr weathering seems perpetually sold out of black and ground brown.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Synthbuttrange posted:

Thanks. Seems less than ideal if you want a one day build or something.

Speed builds have to sacrifice a lot and paint is one of the earliest casualties.

Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

I dunno if they ship everywhere since I haven’t had to rebuy in ages but I’m a big fan of Flory washes, I usually seal them in after 12 hours and they’re real easy to work with.

https://www.florymodels.org/washes

Big Bad Beetleborg
Apr 8, 2007

Things may come to those who wait...but only the things left by those who hustle.

Mixing two different conversations, but when the leg joint of one of my Mazinger kits snapped, I used heat-moldable plastic (polycaprolactone/"blue stuff") to cast the pin from the other leg, and melted down some ABS sprue into acetone goo to make a new one. Not sure that ABS on PS for a joint is a good idea (it may be fine, I have no idea), but faster than ordering from AliExp.

Televisio Frankus
Jun 8, 2010


The kit that I ordered for my birthday got here finally. Can't wait to build it.

Waffleman_
Jan 20, 2011


I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna I don't wanna!!!



Ga ga ga

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021

That's what we call a good time.

bowmore
Oct 6, 2008



Lipstick Apathy
Gonna be fun to try and do both at once

Asteroid Alert
Oct 24, 2012

BINGO!

Final fusion has been approved.

Warmachine
Jan 30, 2012




No RG Goldymarg though.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Does anyone have any pics of finished kits that mix high-gloss parts with matte parts? I'm wavering between leaving the pink of the Qubeley as matte since that's meant to be the limbs or doing it as gloss to match the inner frame and armour.

Gripweed
Nov 8, 2018

I got a mystery box today. Opened it up, turns out it was my prize for the October Challenge, and it was these guys. Goddamn Khainite Shadowstalkers, complete with the cards for playing them in Underworlds!



Gnoll you really went above and beyond here. Thank you so much.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Hope y’all are ready for another HG RX-78-2:

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Weird, so Bandai are trying to make their own social media for Gunpla fans?

Uh, have fun with that I guess. I wonder how strictly they'll moderate it.

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Razor Jacksuit
Mar 31, 2007

VEES RULE #1



Trip report: HG Sleggar's GM

I started this kit for Backlogust, and I'm not even done yet, but I wanted to post about it while some of this stuff is fresh. I'm still kind of a beginner but hopefully some of my experiences with the kit might come in handy for anyone who hasn't started it yet, or is eyeing the missile pod general release version.

Overall it's been a great kit so far, with good poseability and color separation. I was a little skeptical about the color-correcting stickers for the arm and leg joints, but I was really happy with how they turned out.

There was some discussion in the thread a little while back about Bandai decals vs 3rd party, and I can't find the posts now but they had me nervous about having this kit and these decals be my very first ever watersilde decals. But you know what? I tried one out on the beam rifle I'd already hosed up - just followed the provided instructions - and it was fine. And so far the rest of the decals are going smoothly.

But I did make some mistakes along the way, so I want to share those that others may avoid my fate:
1) I put the visor piece on before topcoating. Absolutely no reason to have done this other than blindly following the instructions, and now there's no way to get it back out without destroying it. Still not the end of the world since I can mask it.
2) There's a tiny little grey piece that's some kind of wrsit-mounted weapon for the left arm, and the forward edge features a 45 degree angle right where it connects to the sprue. I managed to cut the whole angle off thinking I was just trimming the nub. Fortunately the kit comes with a spare, and I managed not to gently caress up the second one.
3) The waist. I'm still not sure what I did wrong here, but I just could not get the front plate of the groin to sit flush with the rest of the waist. My first attempt to pry it apart and try again resulted in a stressed peg so I decided to leave it alone, and the cockpit mostly hides the gap anyway.
4) The beam rifle. I again lucked out here because I was just building it to keep as a spare, and wanted to pose it with the spray gun anyway. But when trying to fit the muzzle piece over the tip of the rifle, I pushed too hard and bent the whole barrel, snapping one side off. I think the only way to properly repair it at this point would be to make a clean cut and pin it back in place.

I'll post pics once I'm done with decals and topcoat.

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