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Kvlt!
May 19, 2012



hello everyone

i am new to R/C cars and am building a nitro engine for the first time. Specifically this one: https://www.stirlingkit.com/collections/best-seller/products/otto-motor-fs-l200ac-diy-4-stroke-2-cylinder-engine-kit-that-runs

I am building it right now, and am at the stage where I have the pistons in their cylinders attached to the crankshaft. I have 3 questions, they are all sort of related to each other:

1). There is absolutely no sort of torque spec or anything like that. Everything works smoothly, when I turn the crank by hand the pistons move as they should. I don't know how hard it should be to turn the shaft by hand or how "smoothly" it should go. As it is right now, it is fairly difficult to turn with your fingers, but possible. Should I loosen it, and if so how?

2). The instructions said that the piston rings were pre-installed in the cylinder bore, but the piston rings were not. I put them around the pistons by hand, and using the socket guide they fit into the cylinder. Is this ok? Is it like real cars where I need to precisely measure the piston ring gap, or in R/C cars is it ok if I just put them on and put them in the cylinder? If I do need to re-do them and measure some sort of gap, how would I do that? (it's so small!)

3). There is no instructions for any sort of oil. Do these engines not need oil?

Thank you everyone. Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm having a ton of fun building it tho and I'm hoping if I can get it working to put it in an R/C car and take it to my local R/C track.

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kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction
edit: sorry, I was phone posting and didn't realize this was a _4_ stroke _2_ cylinder engine.

As long as you are using thread lock where specified in the instructions you do not need to worry about torque. Obviously don't use power tools to build this thing. I'm sure it's probably all aluminum so you'll really tear it up if you do.

You should probably use some sort of oil during assembly. I am not sure it matters too much what kind. It probably should have come with some. After-run oil is what I would use if I were building it.

The engine should be tight in some places for sure, that's how you can be sure it has tight compression. And that the valves are working correctly. Try removing the glow plugs to see how it moves with less compression.

I am sure that this kit you are building is not as performance oriented as an rc racing engine. So a little bit of gap in the rings isn’t going to affect it all that much. Normal RC racing engines don't even have piston rings. They rely on a break-in process to mate the piston to the cylinder.

All RC engine fuel is pre-mixed with oil from the factory. Choose something with relatively low nitro content like 15%. Or go for a “break-in” blend to ensure it has more oil content. Your engine probably isn't going to be running for long periods of time or under a lot of load. You don't need to worry a lot about a very specific blend. And the assembly manual may have more specific advice.

kuffs fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 14, 2023

MarxCarl
Jul 18, 2003

Kvlt! posted:

hello everyone

i am new to R/C cars and am building a nitro engine for the first time. Specifically this one: https://www.stirlingkit.com/collections/best-seller/products/otto-motor-fs-l200ac-diy-4-stroke-2-cylinder-engine-kit-that-runs

I am building it right now, and am at the stage where I have the pistons in their cylinders attached to the crankshaft. I have 3 questions, they are all sort of related to each other:

1). There is absolutely no sort of torque spec or anything like that. Everything works smoothly, when I turn the crank by hand the pistons move as they should. I don't know how hard it should be to turn the shaft by hand or how "smoothly" it should go. As it is right now, it is fairly difficult to turn with your fingers, but possible. Should I loosen it, and if so how?

2). The instructions said that the piston rings were pre-installed in the cylinder bore, but the piston rings were not. I put them around the pistons by hand, and using the socket guide they fit into the cylinder. Is this ok? Is it like real cars where I need to precisely measure the piston ring gap, or in R/C cars is it ok if I just put them on and put them in the cylinder? If I do need to re-do them and measure some sort of gap, how would I do that? (it's so small!)

3). There is no instructions for any sort of oil. Do these engines not need oil?

Thank you everyone. Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm having a ton of fun building it tho and I'm hoping if I can get it working to put it in an R/C car and take it to my local R/C track.

If you haven't seen it, Donut Channel on youtube did the V8 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJx06sJ-3NA if you haven't seen that. They contacted some other youtuber about it.

Those look like fun kits.

Kvlt!
May 19, 2012



Thank you both! That was incredibly helpful. Building is now resumed, I'll post some updates when I get it finished!

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008
Just built an XV-02; it’s a very weird kit compared to the other tamiya touring cars I’ve built in TA-01, TA-02, TA-02SW, TA-07, TB-IV, TB-VI, TT-02, etc flavors. The front and rear diffs are sandwiched into the chassis from below instead of above, the chassis has a lot of extra plastic to keep dirt out/trap it in, there is no room for electronics with the inline motor setup, the battery is bafflingly turned vertical which might be justifiable if it rode near the center of the chassis, nothing is easily accessible or adjustable, and so on. It comes with bearings and enough little blue parts to feel cool, but the steering setup is among the sloppiest I’ve built. Just odd design choices all around.

I bought and added the slipper clutch, which changes the spur gear required, which complicates getting away from tamiyas mod 0.6 gears. Slapped a 17.5t in there and it hauls rear end and feels pretty composed ripping around the neighborhood, with enough ground clearance to hit some small drop offs and bumps. The real reason I wanted this was my childhood love of the Lancia body set. The XV02 doesn’t come with a body, so I probably should’ve just bought the 01 with the Lancia, but here we are.

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)



I love Rally cars and will one day build one. I just want to make a course to run it on like those videos you see posted on Instagram etc.

I have been plugging away at some new stuff. I was able to finally score a Promoto MX. There is not a lot that raises my pulse in RC these days - but this thing does it. This is a segment defining model the way that the T-Maxx/Micro RS4/Baja/Slash all defined their segments. It is the biggest release in the last decade.


https://i.imgur.com/wlrTmk6.mp4

The thing that makes it so good is it works. It freaking works GREAT. They nailed it in a way I have not seen for some time. Rumor is this is a project in the making some ~6 years ago. The technology they were able to pump into this will translate into other platforms too.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Someone finally uses one of those model V8's to do something besides rev on a bench

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7_EDpmvZQU

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
I need to get back to my rally car projects. I rebuilt a M05 as a rally car for my kids. And I have a M06 to make into a rally car. ... also a MF01x.

my "dream" is to do r/c car racing on baseball daimonds. Rallycross? Easy setup and takedown, slick surface so traction isn't a "thing".

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Nerobro posted:

I need to get back to my rally car projects. I rebuilt a M05 as a rally car for my kids. And I have a M06 to make into a rally car. ... also a MF01x.

my "dream" is to do r/c car racing on baseball daimonds. Rallycross? Easy setup and takedown, slick surface so traction isn't a "thing".

I blasted my TT02 around a baseball diamond not long after I got it and it's so good. Had to drat near disassemble the entire front end to get it cleaned out, but it's such a fun surface. I actually haven't had it out since I lowered it and put the Firebird body on it. Need to charge a batter and go whip it around.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I blasted my TT02 around a baseball diamond not long after I got it and it's so good. Had to drat near disassemble the entire front end to get it cleaned out, but it's such a fun surface. I actually haven't had it out since I lowered it and put the Firebird body on it. Need to charge a batter and go whip it around.

That's the ideal use of a TT02. I have a TT02 (red tub, oil filled shocks..) that I keep at a friends place just to have a toy to bash around with. It was a few years ago now, but I built it on thanksgiving day while they were making dinner for everyone. That was a good day.

.... I thought I was going to get away with just having "a car" there. But my snobbery bled in. I ended up putting a decent steering servo, servo saver, and oil filled shocks on it. $45 in parts goes a looong way in making it a really good car. I still am using the $30 radio and reciever :-)

Spatule
Mar 18, 2003

Somewhat Heroic posted:

I love Rally cars and will one day build one. I just want to make a course to run it on like those videos you see posted on Instagram etc.

I have been plugging away at some new stuff. I was able to finally score a Promoto MX. There is not a lot that raises my pulse in RC these days - but this thing does it. This is a segment defining model the way that the T-Maxx/Micro RS4/Baja/Slash all defined their segments. It is the biggest release in the last decade.


https://i.imgur.com/wlrTmk6.mp4

The thing that makes it so good is it works. It freaking works GREAT. They nailed it in a way I have not seen for some time. Rumor is this is a project in the making some ~6 years ago. The technology they were able to pump into this will translate into other platforms too.

I just watched a teardown video of that thing and it's crazy how it's not much more expensive given nearly everything is custom, it has 2 motors, 2 servos, a 6 channel receiver etc.
Haven't seen one in the wild yet.

GlassEye-Boy
Jul 12, 2001
Has anyone heard of or had any experience with Traction Hobby? They've got some quality looking ultra realistic rc kits. Expensive though.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I just ordered a WL Toys 284010 (1:24 Fiesta WRC) and I can’t wait for it to get here. Anybody have experience with the smaller WL Toys stuff like the K989 (previous gen Fiesta WRC) or K969 (Porsche 911)?

I don’t expect to do much with it other than tear around the house and hopefully tape some cat toys to it so the boys can chase it, but who knows where I will wander.

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008
Since my teen decided he wanted to be into RC again a couple of months ago we really have gone crazy building and breaking things, and trying to get back into racing at our closest indoor offroad track. On the bashing side, we pulled out his old Stampede VXL 2wd and finally decided to put a 3S battery in it to see what it could do; on the first trigger pull it shredded a universal joint and separated the rear tire glue on both sides. After repairing it, he made a couple of easy loops around the cul de sac followed by one full throttle trigger pull which (again) lead to loss of a rear tire and a crazy tumbling crash that ejected the battery and partially de-cased it. Money well spent.



Trying to get back into racing after several years off has been challenging but fun. The biggest initial obstacle for us is just learning to drive again; I raced RC throughout my entire childhood and for a few multi-year periods as an adult where I put in enough work to be a competitive club racer, and after six years off I really am at the bottom of the hill again. I've spent a few practice days logging 400+ laps at the track (compared to a total of ~50 for a race day) with my throttle endpoint turned down enough to practice the line without crashing and it's helped a lot. I still need to do some work with tire prep for the super hard clay surface, as it's one of those offroad tracks where people run slicks but if you get slightly out of the groove it's like ice. I built a new 22 5.0 and the boy is racing my 22 3.0. Also trying to remember how to use an airbrush:



17.5 2wd buggy is fun because it's so insanely competitive, and the cars really are unbelievably fast. As someone who raced in the 90s it's still shocking that a sportsman stock car can now clear triples and turn laps that used to be considered expert mod speed.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
... I have.... a lot.. to say about all of this. Especially about power, and traction.

But seriously, seeing another racer makes me very happy.

JudgeJoeBrown
Mar 23, 2007




I'm supper lucky to have an amazing track near me.

Thornhill in Hutto Texas.

JudgeJoeBrown fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Nov 2, 2023

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008

Nerobro posted:

... I have.... a lot.. to say about all of this. Especially about power, and traction.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Been a rough week with oncall and stuff.

TL;DR: Modern cars have so much power both in the battery and motor, that they're to darned fast. Modern tracks and tires are so biased towards maximum traction, that the limiting factor is traction rolling. This is not a good combination for competitive racing, or learning how to drive.

Hmmpf. I've written this three times, and it always comes across a fuddy and nostalgia bullcrap. And a good bit autobiographical. EW. I think the american r/c car racing scene is .. sick. As in the medical sense.

I"m still trying to pull all my thoughts together.

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008
No pressure, and I certainly understand. I spent a lot of race time as a kid on dirty parking lots at hobby shops, or loose dirt off-road tracks, or much lower traction on road tracks than what we have now and it’s wildly different. I have no data but it seems like a significant portion of indoor off-road in the states has moved to astroturf or carpet over plywood jumps. The last time I was racing competitively I was more on road focused and we had to coat touring car sidewalls in CA to allow them to slip enough to prevent traction rolls. There is still a lot of black magic in tire prep off-road; one good thing I’ve seen is the move away from odorous tire sauces, but that is also a half measure which should really be a move to only non-toxic ones with MSDS’ available.

The racing scene is definitely changing. Drag racing seems to be super popular now, I imagine in part because it’s much more accessible to beginners to do without frustration. I did find a hobby shop running parking lot races near me but unfortunately they were just closing the season for the winter when we got started. There’s also a ton of Mini Z racing around here, and one hobby shop has an indoor drift track which is something I hadn’t seen before. Change is great, but I am also nostalgic for the old days of being at a hugely popular track with like 15 full mains on a Saturday night.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Many R/C racing disciplines feel like joining an old school multiplayer game server. There's not many players but the ones who remain will just house you all day long.

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug
After refurbing my over 20 years old MR-01 Mini-Zs and watching a lot of Tomley RC on YouTube, I just had to scratch the itch for something bigger, faster and outdoor.

I picked up this WLToys 144001 with a bunch of metal upgrades and brushless conversion for $70. Even out of the box, worn, dirty and driven hard it was scary fast!

I've cleaned up the cable management, removed a lot of dirt and cleaned and adjusted the dampers, and it drives really well, if a little squirrely, I still haven't tightened and adjusted the alignment.

The fact that you can buy something this fast for this cheap blows my mind.

I lost a wheel nut on my last drive, so I have to stop at the hobby store for new nuts, damper oil and a bigger battery before continuing to bash it.



Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
So I've been trying, and I keep getting back to an essay.

Here are my less than coherant thoughts.

1. Traction is to high.

High traction means cars roll over. It masks poor chassis setup. It loads the motors more. It makes drivetrains more sensitive. Braking is much less of a thing than it should be.

Tire prep these days is about how to get the most traction in drive, and get rid of traction in corners.

For off road, this means if you catch a tire wrong, you flip the car, instead of sliding. For on road, this means you're gluing sidewalls, you're intentionally setting things up to lose traction.

Tire prep for off road is .. insane.. now. Has been for years. That.. isn't good.

2. Power is to high, and to granular.

The similarity of lap times speaks to this. EuroTruck, VTA, USGT are all typically within 10% of each other. We shouldn't have 25.5, 21.5, 17.5, 10.5, 7.5 and mod. We shouldn't have three sealed can motors to manage on top of that. The variety is a punishment to the new driver. Changing classes is harder.

3. Cars don't look like cars anymore. And classes are indistinct.

I should be able to look at the track, and know instantly what class is running. Either the speed needs to be ~that different~ or the body styles need to be ~that different~.

4. Onboarding new drivers.

Getting into the sport is.. confusing and hard. Or just to expensive. So many driver who don't actually know what they're doing, giving advice. Or unwilling to support a new driver. The Cliquey enviorment I run into at most tracks is... offputting.


-----------------------------------

I think we should be looking at rpm limited speedos like they do in the south asia races. 10.5 motors with rpm limiters seems like a good idea.

I'd like to see current limited racing.

We need lower traction carpet.

This is definitely a situation where "the drivers want something that's bad for them".

There's not enough emphasis on Mini racing. Mini's are 160mm wide, and as heavy as a VTA car. This gives them body roll, and makes the cars behave well.

I also like the FWD touring cars gaining emphasis.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Nov 3, 2023

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





You're not wrong.

The most fun I had with RC in the past 10 years was when we managed to get a (very small) class of short course trucks running on a flat paved track. There weren't really any rules so one guy went with a fully slammed setup and of course went off and won by a lap+.

I ran my SC10 in box-stock configuration and I was having a blast three-wheeling it through the corners with the ridiculous body roll, like the real-life SSTs. Harder tires still would've been a benefit to reduce traction rolling but then again I think the full size trucks are also capable of traction rolling if you crank too much steering in because they're just so high.

And of course, as they do every few years, the local on-road group has imploded with drama again and lost their racetrack again and the cyclical nature of that has made me get all of my racing fix via iRacing.

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006
Dirt oval that I run has some of these same problems. The fast sprint cars are just run by the old guys. We run a super stock class that runs stock ish bodies and runs a 2wd slash for the chassis and is the most popular class with around 40 entries split between 2 experience classes. The rest of the classes are usually running 4 to 10 cars. The big issue is there are not really any new people getting into any classes let alone the 2 box stock slash classes they have.

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008
When I raced in 2015-2018 the track I went to had a good enough population to have great variance of on road classes, including a Tamiya spec TA-02SW Porsche class where we ran kit stock (bushings, Mabuchi 540, kit tires, etc) with a spec battery, which was fun and quite cheap compared to anything else.

The granularity of power systems is ridiculous, and since the strategy seems to be ‘I have infinite available current, so I will gear the motor until it melts’ they are all impossibly fast. We really need a slow, cheap system for beginner racing or a better method of limiting the fast, cheap systems. The tools all exist to effectively implement an easy equipment spec or an output limit but it would require manpower and time at the track: spec a TBL-02 and silver can class with an enforced weight limit, or tech the car with a tachometer for tire rpm, or whatever, but I’ve never seen a normal club race actually do tech. The easy/lazy solution for spec racing is a buyout rule but part of the hobby is buying expensive little accessories we don’t have the driving skill to exploit and that ruins the build.

From the 20 years of RCTech reading I’ve done I get the feeling that people really like to point their frustrations at how much money people sink into stock (17.5) classes racing to be competitive, but MOST club A-mains I’ve seen lately have been like:

1. Nationals Guy: 20 laps
2. Nationals Guy: 20
3. Regionals Guy: 19
4. Regionals Guy: 19
5. Club Guy: 18
6. Club Guy: 18
7. Club Guy: 17
8. Club Guy: 16
9. Club Guy: 16
10. Club Guy: 16

And honestly if guy 1 and guy 10 swapped buggies, guy 10 wouldn’t win, and guy 1 would probably still podium. In the brushed days (with higher attendance) these groups would be split into sportsman stock and expert stock.

I also desperately want more mini, fwd, and f1 racing, and any other wacky class. Give me a class of that lovely Kyosho motorcycle from the 90s, I’ll do it.

Comparison time:

Here’s the 1987 IFMAR 2wd Worlds: https://youtu.be/h1pS_EHG0MA?si=cPUsw91EAtRjiTF8

Here’s the 2023 IFMAR 2wd Worlds: https://youtu.be/K9736_oZaA0?si=ZWUXB-6Md3oSWQB4

Honestly I’m surprised at how fast the 80s bugs look, and the real difference is that modern ones explode from hairpin to triple-clearing speed in six feet and all look like they could hit 50 if the straight was longer. The old racing is more full-scale like, and maybe more compelling to watch?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

rowebot44 posted:

The big issue is there are not really any new people getting into any classes let alone the 2 box stock slash classes they have.

Slash isn't compelling. It's just an easy answer. They're sloppy, and end up being ugly hunks of junk in rapid fashion. But.. this is part of it. How do we get new people in?

First, you need people to SEE it. Racing in backrooms, warehouses, on special days only, doesn't help. Racing in places where you can't invite people to watch, doesn't help. Facilities that have tracks, almost never make a show of it. They tend to have the proshop listed, but almost never the track.

Advertising events... needs to happen. But the flyers need to include locations. I think a full 50% of rc race flyers don't include the location. None of them include links to what classes are. Where can you find where and when a race is happening? I have put ~concentrated effort~ into finding r/c car tracks in the PNW. I was able to find the one that happens next to boeing field, but it turns out there was one nearer to me. The only way I knew? was a friend saw cars running.


Ambihelical Hexnut posted:

The granularity of power systems is ridiculous,*snip* little accessories we don’t have the driving skill to exploit and that ruins the build.
This is why I like the rpm limited motor combinations. Everyone runs a 10.5 motor, gear to the ESCs rpm limit.

quote:

I also desperately want more mini, fwd, and f1 racing, and any other wacky class.

Comparison time:

Honestly I’m surprised at how fast the 80s bugs look, and the real difference is that modern ones explode from hairpin to triple-clearing speed in six feet and all look like they could hit 50 if the straight was longer. The old racing is more full-scale like, and maybe more compelling to watch?
I don't think total power is much higher, which is what limits top speed. The old cars are limited both by the loose loamy surface, and batteries. They could wind out the motors just fine though. The near zero pack resistance, infinite traction, and no brushes to worry about are where some of the speed comes from. Also.. variable motor timing. The surface on the 2023 track is.. well it might as well be pavement.

F1 still had a strong following before covid hit here. Same with Mini. FWD ran with USGT (and USGT has, maybe had, no weight limit for FWD cars..... )

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I haven’t raced seriously since like 2010, but back then the big no-flip class was short course because they were comparatively wide and low. But then traction became a problem.

I was to the point where I had lines on my wheels to try to eyeball and control excessive wheel spin coming out of corners.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
My local-ish (about an hour away) Hobbytown has a pretty nice indoor track setup that they'll throw some jumps on for truck and buggy races. They run a Spec Tamiya TT series that I may check out some time. I have zero experience racing but my car pretty much already checks all their boxes to meet spec. New motor, gears, and tires and I'd be ready to party. They do a lot of open track time too and I'd like to maybe get down there for that.

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction

IOwnCalculus posted:

You're not wrong.

And of course, as they do every few years, the local on-road group has imploded with drama again and lost their racetrack again and the cyclical nature of that has made me get all of my racing fix via iRacing.

Do we have an iRacing thread? I’d run in a goon league.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Naturally https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3957190

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
I keep thinking about products that could "fix" r/c car racing. Then I get back to "there's no way to build something cheaper than a TT02". I own, at least.. three TT02's. I like them. They are perfect for "I don't care, I just wanna drive a car." The bottoms of my TT02's look like hell, and they can take a hit. So.. I think the real answer is figuring out how to get warm bodies at tracks and laughing as they make a mess of the track.

$100 for transponders needs to end.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

My local-ish (about an hour away) Hobbytown has a pretty nice indoor track setup that they'll throw some jumps on for truck and buggy races. They run a Spec Tamiya TT series that I may check out some time. I have zero experience racing but my car pretty much already checks all their boxes to meet spec. New motor, gears, and tires and I'd be ready to party. They do a lot of open track time too and I'd like to maybe get down there for that.



You should try it.

Amusingly, that upgrade list takes the price of a TT02 beyond the cost of a real touring car. *shakes head*

So, go try it, and report back!

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008

Nerobro posted:

$100 for transponders needs to end

100%. Absolute gut punch for newbies to race. Club systems and the necessary turnover also kept the sequence moving pretty well. Definitely don’t want to go back to frequency clips though.

TT02s can be had around $100 with esc, motor, tires, and body. Then you show up to race and need to spend that much on the transponder. Rough.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
A few years back, I rented the local velodrome, and ran a race day. It... ended up not being much racing, but it was a ton of fun using a 400m velodrome to run cars on. 100% would do again.

So, I've decided it's time to try something new. In April, I'm going to attempt a rally car event. I have a half a dozen people on board already.

Here's the plan: Take one of the cheap lap timing apps. A baseball diamond. A box of finish nails, string, and a few cones. Layout a 30 second-ish course on the clay, and do time trials. Like.. real rally cars. One car at a time, means we don't need timing gear. There's lots of cars that are suited to running on loose clay. Loose surface means treaded tires are the rule, and tires will matter less. It also should be fine to run the typical belted touring cars on it, if you don't mind cleaning up.

There's "a plan" for rules. But for now? Grab a set of $12 rally block tires and wheels off of amazon or ebay, jack the ride height up, and come play.

Assuming everyone has fun, I'd like to have a mini class, and a Rally Car class. Mini being Tamiya M0#. Rally car being Touring car. "as long as it covers the wheels and looks like a car.."

This is going to be done in public, so people can see the event. It's unlikely you'll need to recharge more than once. It's do-able with minimal equipment. And you can do it with any of a number of off the shelf kits. Since it's not wheel to wheel, and no "walls" you're not gonna break your car. And it'll be noobie friendly.

................. So I hope.

Ambihelical Hexnut posted:

100%. Absolute gut punch for newbies to race. Club systems and the necessary turnover also kept the sequence moving pretty well. Definitely don’t want to go back to frequency clips though.

TT02s can be had around $100 with esc, motor, tires, and body. Then you show up to race and need to spend that much on the transponder. Rough.

For the first couple decades, transponders were all borrowed. Now the people making the transponders won't sell you rental transponders.

You can tell it's still a thing, because tamiya cars all come with transponder mounts. But the people who do the transponders want the money, and don't give a crap about the r/c community.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye
How much is the whole timing system? I did a little bit of drone racing and we had a really good timing system that just read the video signal from the video transmitters on the drones. The thing that read the signals was like 500 bucks but it would work with a video transmitter/camera combo that’s like 15 bucks on Amazon. You could use just the timing system and not care about the live video.

JudgeJoeBrown
Mar 23, 2007

The main timing box is almost $3500 from Mylaps.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Nerobro posted:

A few years back, I rented the local velodrome, and ran a race day. It... ended up not being much racing, but it was a ton of fun using a 400m velodrome to run cars on. 100% would do again.

So, I've decided it's time to try something new. In April, I'm going to attempt a rally car event. I have a half a dozen people on board already.

Here's the plan: Take one of the cheap lap timing apps. A baseball diamond. A box of finish nails, string, and a few cones. Layout a 30 second-ish course on the clay, and do time trials. Like.. real rally cars. One car at a time, means we don't need timing gear. There's lots of cars that are suited to running on loose clay. Loose surface means treaded tires are the rule, and tires will matter less. It also should be fine to run the typical belted touring cars on it, if you don't mind cleaning up.

There's "a plan" for rules. But for now? Grab a set of $12 rally block tires and wheels off of amazon or ebay, jack the ride height up, and come play.

Assuming everyone has fun, I'd like to have a mini class, and a Rally Car class. Mini being Tamiya M0#. Rally car being Touring car. "as long as it covers the wheels and looks like a car.."

This is going to be done in public, so people can see the event. It's unlikely you'll need to recharge more than once. It's do-able with minimal equipment. And you can do it with any of a number of off the shelf kits. Since it's not wheel to wheel, and no "walls" you're not gonna break your car. And it'll be noobie friendly.

................. So I hope.

For the first couple decades, transponders were all borrowed. Now the people making the transponders won't sell you rental transponders.

You can tell it's still a thing, because tamiya cars all come with transponder mounts. But the people who do the transponders want the money, and don't give a crap about the r/c community.

And just where exactly is this gonna be? You're in/about Chicagoland somewhere aren't you?

Ambihelical Hexnut
Aug 5, 2008

Nerobro posted:

A few years back, I rented the local velodrome, and ran a race day. It... ended up not being much racing, but it was a ton of fun using a 400m velodrome to run cars on. 100% would do again.

That's awesome. I raced at a few of these as a young child: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X8sxJRZsPE

It was a great racing experience to be standing up high in the stands, so far away, turning laps with average speeds in the 50/60mph range. And the spectacle of insane speed runs and the endurance races with quick change batteries, would be great to see one in the lipo era.

quote:

So, I've decided it's time to try something new. In April, I'm going to attempt a rally car event. I have a half a dozen people on board already.

Here's the plan: Take one of the cheap lap timing apps. A baseball diamond. A box of finish nails, string, and a few cones. Layout a 30 second-ish course on the clay, and do time trials. Like.. real rally cars. One car at a time, means we don't need timing gear. There's lots of cars that are suited to running on loose clay. Loose surface means treaded tires are the rule, and tires will matter less. It also should be fine to run the typical belted touring cars on it, if you don't mind cleaning up.


This sounds really fun. An unlimited/basher class would enable opportunists to participate too; a chunk of the field of 90s parking lot racing was offroad cars because that's what people in the community had.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

i own every Bionicle posted:

How much is the whole timing system? I did a little bit of drone racing and we had a really good timing system that just read the video signal from the video transmitters on the drones. The thing that read the signals was like 500 bucks but it would work with a video transmitter/camera combo that’s like 15 bucks on Amazon. You could use just the timing system and not care about the live video.

.. this is a really good idea. AIO's are down to like $20 aren't they?

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

And just where exactly is this gonna be? You're in/about Chicagoland somewhere aren't you?

Looking at the near west suburbs. Elmhurst/OakBrook type thing? I still have a few months to hammer out the exact site.

Ambihelical Hexnut posted:

That's awesome. I raced at a few of these as a young child: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X8sxJRZsPE

It was a great racing experience to be standing up high in the stands, so far away, turning laps with average speeds in the 50/60mph range. And the spectacle of insane speed runs and the endurance races with quick change batteries, would be great to see one in the lipo era.

This sounds really fun. An unlimited/basher class would enable opportunists to participate too; a chunk of the field of 90s parking lot racing was offroad cars because that's what people in the community had.

Thunderdomes were my favorite rc car action editions.

I"ll make a point to mention "bring whatever you've got" :-)

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I was gonna say, I’d love to do something like that, but I don’t own any of those cars.

Thinking of converting my old traxxas slash to a buggy, which might not be too bad for it :iiam:

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Beve Stuscemi posted:

I was gonna say, I’d love to do something like that, but I don’t own any of those cars.

Thinking of converting my old traxxas slash to a buggy, which might not be too bad for it :iiam:

Of course, bring something. Get a time. :-) I'm sure I'll have my TRF201 out there, pushing like buggies do.

Also, $120-160 gets you a TT02 with rally gear from any number of American distributors. A bit more would get you a MF01x based car. Or a bit less a M05.

This might be the right time for this, because MST, Associated, Kyosho, Traxxas, LC Racing also have rally cars you can get off the shelf.

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