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E2M2 posted:I know Death Guard was one of if not the worst team before they got buffed a bit, but what would a 2000 pt team look like in 10th? Mortarion with 3 PBCs clustered around is the common one, or don’t take him to field a lot of armoured bodies now
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 18:56 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 11:12 |
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E2M2 posted:I know Death Guard was one of if not the worst team before they got buffed a bit, but what would a 2000 pt team look like in 10th? Woa woa woa slow down there!
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:03 |
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Captain Magic posted:Really appreciate all the comments on this one! I think I’ll try the scheme some more on the rest of the army. I didn't comment on it yesterday, but it's really cool I picked up all my painting supplies and everything that I was missing, so starting tomorrow I'm gonna start putting everything together, then when I've got stuff together I'll start actually painting. Slightly nervous about messing it up, but also very excited to get everything going! Plus messing things up is absolutely part of the process of getting better at it Still on the hunt for a proper base paint that I can use for a lighter purple. I found a nice layer one from GW that I picked up when I went to one of their stores, but from what I understand that'll need a bunch of extra coats so we'll see how it comes together. For the vallejo paints, it seems like you can just use the air paints with a brush? Or is there something special you need to do since it's apparently "formatted specially for airbrushes" which I presume means it's thinner to start or something. This is probably a better question for the model painting thread come to think of it...
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:07 |
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You can use layer paints a base, there is absolutely nothing stopping you from doing that, and several WHTV painting videos does do that. But the thing you need to remember is that you'll probably need one or two extra layers for it to cover nicely, otherwise no biggie. And yeah, airbrush paints are just paints that are slightly thinner in consistency.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:13 |
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Cooked Auto posted:You can use layer paints a base, there is absolutely nothing stopping you from doing that, and several WHTV painting videos does do that. But the thing you need to remember is that you'll probably need one or two extra layers for it to cover nicely, otherwise no biggie. cool, thank you! that's sort of what I figured
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:21 |
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Weird Pumpkin posted:cool, thank you! that's sort of what I figured More, thin layers is always going to give better results anyhow
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:39 |
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Improbable Lobster posted:More, thin layers is always going to give better results anyhow Yeah I've watched several videos on thinning paints now, the ones in the OP as well as some other "Top X things I wish I knew before painting" videos that covered it. Seems like thinner paint and a couple layers is the way to go for sure
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 19:42 |
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Working with thin layers is fun because after the first layer you go "it's so over, this loving sucks. I've ruined the model, this coverage and opacity is trash." Then the second layer goes on and you go "we're so back, my perfect shade. The ultimate color, God's perfect shade"
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 20:05 |
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Nazzadan posted:Working with thin layers is fun because after the first layer you go "it's so over, this loving sucks. I've ruined the model, this coverage and opacity is trash." Then the second layer goes on and you go "we're so back, my perfect shade. The ultimate color, God's perfect shade" this is also my experience before/after washes
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 20:10 |
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Washes/contrast paints feel like cheat codes on some minis as far as tabletop quality goes
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 20:41 |
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Honestly I skip contrasts because I still haven't figured out smooth and decent coverage without it looking splotchy. Use them more as glazes or recess shades sometimes.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 21:06 |
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Tried eldar again this week post-nerf. 0-2 baby. Was way too easy to get real overconfident with my (bad sword n shield) Wraithknight. Turns out they don't like taking a [sustained hits]'d Monolith Death Ray to the face regardless of their invuln. I continue to have absolute poo poo luck with the Fire Prism cannons even *with* all my rerolls. Asurmen is in this weird place where 6 S6 AP-3 D3 [devastating wounds] attacks is a really good profile but is countered by the fact that you *really* don't want Dire Avengers anywhere in combat, even if they got their CCWs back. On the Necrons; I've been on both sides of Cryptothralls and they're still kinda ridiculous at their job. Also Szeras's ap-1/+1 aura seems really, really nice.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 21:08 |
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Cooked Auto posted:Honestly I skip contrasts because I still haven't figured out smooth and decent coverage without it looking splotchy. It really depends on what it’s covering and the contrast paint itself, but warhipster gave some awesome advice to start the first strokes with your brush inside the recesses or corners and to work outward from there, and since I’ve started doing that, my splotchiness has really gone down. It really does require a little more immediate movement and attention because you have to make sure the spread is even while it’s still wet and before any of it dries (what happened to me a lot is the outer edge of a splotch will dry first, creating these weird rings I’d have to work around). They are awesome as glazes though, no doubt. Also very good (albeit expensive) in an airbrush.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 21:43 |
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Cooked Auto posted:Honestly I skip contrasts because I still haven't figured out smooth and decent coverage without it looking splotchy. From what I gather it's normally a case that you've used too much contrast paint of it goes splotchy. It's basically a glaze where you're applying a layer of paint with it being more transparent at the edges, so really you can do multiple thin layers to avoid the pooling that can cause that. Alternatively when it splotches you can just touch up that one bit either with contrast or a layer paint. Personally I don't paint with contrast for the same reason, you can do decent and fast easy with contrast but I have so much batch painting experience I can do decent and fast with layer paint. Theoretically contrast would be better but there's not the same number of colours and I don't like buying ever colour twice.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 22:04 |
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Cooked Auto posted:Honestly I skip contrasts because I still haven't figured out smooth and decent coverage without it looking splotchy. They're way more useful on textured areas where you don't have to worry about smooth. But you can get them smooth on flat areas too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 22:08 |
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Is it generally acceptable to play named characters (epic heroes?) in casual / competitive lists these days? I have a memory of them being kinda weird and not-tournament-legal when I played WHFB/40k 10-15 years ago?
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 22:51 |
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coelomate posted:Is it generally acceptable to play named characters (epic heroes?) in casual / competitive lists these days? Totally fine, the only exception might be legends units. Casual play acceptability is going to vary so wildly between people and areas so that's more of a, know your situation and don't bring a busted rear end list to curb stomp the newest 40K player in your area.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 22:55 |
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coelomate posted:Is it generally acceptable to play named characters (epic heroes?) in casual / competitive lists these days? Yeah, it's been socially acceptable for ages now. I remember it was considered unfriendly in 3e, but I'm not sure when it changed.
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 22:55 |
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Cooked Auto posted:Honestly I skip contrasts because I still haven't figured out smooth and decent coverage without it looking splotchy. It depends on the specific colour, but a gamechanger for me was just mixing a lot of my usual colours 50/50 with contrast medium, then carefully applying a second coat in the recesses as needed for larger models. Agrax earthshade with contrast medium also applies much more consistently too
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# ? Sep 15, 2023 23:13 |
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Thanks for the steam roll I suppose. Kitchner posted:From what I gather it's normally a case that you've used too much contrast paint of it goes splotchy. I mean that's probably the biggest reason if anything. Even if it's partly just me not knowing the proper application for a smooth finish, which was more my main issue in this case. Even then I still just prefer using the few couple of ones I have for candy coating to make simple gems or lenses. Had some success with using them for scales, but sadly I don't have a lot of lizardmen to paint.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 00:18 |
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Yeah my number 1 use for contrast paint is on the black ribbing I between marine armour. Outside of that I don't use it a lot.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 02:01 |
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Contrast paint is great for yellow and oranges.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 02:33 |
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Before I get started putting things together tomorrow, any pro gluing tips? I've got some of the plastic glue which is super duper permanent, so I imagine the big thing is to check to see the alignment first, then use as small an amount of glue as you can. Going to keep some paper towel and possibly a few qtips nearby in case I need to dab or spread it quickly (though I think qtips would leave fibers so that wouldn't be great) Also I saw in a video that there are some models that are press fit so obviously check for that first!
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 04:42 |
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Weird Pumpkin posted:Before I get started putting things together tomorrow, any pro gluing tips? You've got it covered here. Just check out the flow of the glue before you go for it because plastic glue can be super runny and it will melt any detail it touches. Also plastic glue has a longer setting time than regular super glue so bear that in mind as you'll need to hold stuff together to bond. On the ez build/press fit if you're glueing model you should often just chop down the pins that press in. They sometimes make it harder than it need be to get a nice fit.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 04:50 |
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Apparently people make a big deal about "dry fit" which I think is some special term for "make sure the pieces you're gluing together actually fit first" which I thought was just a basic step of model assembly but uh, do that first. Also plastic glue often gets everywhere if it overflows the gap and it can end up under your fingers. If you think your finger is wet you should put your model down and let go because otherwise you're going to melt a fingerprint onto your model (which can be fixed, of course, but that's more work). It's great if you want to do an Elden Ring themed army but not so much for anything else.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 04:55 |
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Speaking of building models, gently caress whoever designed the Primaris Librarian.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 04:57 |
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I wouldn't use any kind of cotton swab or paper towel to mop poo poo up, you are going to get fibers at some point. You'd be better off with an Xacto blade or sculpting tool or even the embroidery needle I 'borrowed' from my mom like 30 years ago now. A metal tool isn't going to leave fibers and when that gets gunked up THEN you can use the paper towel to wipe that off. For really tiny poo poo like some Kingdom Death or Mechanicus parts, I'll use a metal bottle cap as a glue palette and use the embroidery needle to dab a tiny dot of glue where it needs to go. Odds are that the plastic glue is going to have a decent amount of setting time, so I wouldn't be too worried about needing to rush getting stuff together. In fact I was putting some Chaos Warriors together last night and I would let the first part 'cook' for a little bit to soften the surface up before mating it. That gave it a little extra 'juice' that squeezed out of the seam and after cleaning those up this morning, you can't even see where the seams were.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 05:02 |
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rantmo posted:Speaking of building models, gently caress whoever designed the Primaris Librarian. Which one lol
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 05:17 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Which one lol The one in the Blood Angels Combat Patrol with two loving interlocking pieces for the torso front that the two loving legs attach to all weird-like and then the back piece doesn't line up well and there are massive gaps in the cape and gently caress
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 06:12 |
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The arms of votann hearthguard are just a nightmare. They need to fit right otherwise the shoulder pads don't, but they are super easy to get wrong as they have no pins. I hate them.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 06:21 |
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I finally finished kitbashing 2x Iron Warriors lads made out of some Hellblasters. Heads are just bluetacked on for now, but everything else is glued. I hope the mk3/x hybrid armor doesn't look bad after it's all painted. I'm also slowly making it through 5x Noise Marines (also out of Hellblaster bodies). 1x is 90% done, just deciding on a backpack. The other 4x bodies are have been shaved down, studded up, and I've finished most of the guns. I've still got to do armor details + cables going in and out of armor/guns on all of them. I've got a delivery coming soon and I'm excited. The Legion specific upgrade sprues will complete a few custom kill teams I had in mind, specifically the Night Lords and Alpha Legion stuff. New stuff: Nightlords new & old heads and shoulders Iron Warriors new heads and shoulders Iron Hands heads Alpha Legion new heads and shoulders New Units: Traitor Esoterist Consul Exodus (Alpha Legion) Grimnyr Brôkhyr Iron-master Ironhead Squat Prospectors Gang Vartijan Exo-Driller x2 Delaque Gang I'm looking forward to finishing these projects up.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 06:35 |
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Robert Facepalmer posted:I wouldn't use any kind of cotton swab or paper towel to mop poo poo up, you are going to get fibers at some point. You'd be better off with an Xacto blade or sculpting tool or even the embroidery needle I 'borrowed' from my mom like 30 years ago now. A metal tool isn't going to leave fibers and when that gets gunked up THEN you can use the paper towel to wipe that off. For really tiny poo poo like some Kingdom Death or Mechanicus parts, I'll use a metal bottle cap as a glue palette and use the embroidery needle to dab a tiny dot of glue where it needs to go Good call we've got some stuff like that so I'll keep something handy in case I need to scrape it off/paint it on In hindsight I sort of wish I got one of the glues that comes in a bottle with a small brush but I'm sure it'll go fine
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 12:16 |
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No reason not to get Tamiya Extra Thin. It's like $5 and the best plastic glue you can get. e: you can be insane like me and get the quick setting version too
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 13:03 |
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Eej posted:No reason not to get Tamiya Extra Thin. It's like $5 and the best plastic glue you can get. Yeah I talked to a bunch of local people that swore by using the regular citadel glue as the best so I got that, but originally that's exactly what I was gonna grab! Might still pick it up because I've got an awful lot of these things to build
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 13:06 |
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I've never had to worry about qtips or paper towel or whatever with Tamiya Extra Thin. You literally just hold the pieces together and then lightly dab the glue into the gap with the brush then hold it together for like a minute and you're done.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 13:08 |
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Antinumeric posted:The arms of votann hearthguard are just a nightmare. They need to fit right otherwise the shoulder pads don't, but they are super easy to get wrong as they have no pins. I hate them. Those shoulder joints and the tiny cables that go on the back of them give me anxiety.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 13:26 |
Cooked Auto posted:Thanks for the steam roll I suppose. Yeah, the key to Contrast and SpeedPaint is using the right amount and painting in smooth, continuous movements. This entire model is SpeedPaint, aside from Big Chompa's eyes (Pro Acryl Jade). Once I figured out how to best use them, I think they're indispensable...from painting full models to using as glazes.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 14:27 |
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Yeah speed paints are extremely useful as heavy washes or as glazes even if you have no interest in using them as advertised.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 15:46 |
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I like them for basecoats and then I do fancy stuff
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 15:51 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 11:12 |
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So Death Guard got new debuffs attached to their Nurgle's Gift aura making it much nastier, but we didn't necessarily get any tougher if we aren't hitting anyone with the -1 WS/BS version. Am I dumb to just jam Rhinos with Plague Marines, Bloat Drones, and deep striking Blightlord/Deathshroud bricks at the enemy as fast and broadly as possible like a stinky World Eaters army with the Skullsquirm debuff? I haven't played much of 10th but it looks like I'm going to struggle with enemy tanks.
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# ? Sep 16, 2023 16:31 |