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So any ideas where I can get a box and shipping materials to RMA this 3D printer considering I got rid of the gigantic box already? Just take it to a UPS store and ask for their expertise, or...?
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Sep 15, 2023 22:42
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Taking it to UPS sounds like a good idea. What style of printer is it? Can you take it apart?
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Sep 15, 2023 22:48
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It's a big enclosed bedslinger, so it was basically shipped 100% assembled. I don't know that I can take it down to much smaller without completely disassembling it 
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Sep 15, 2023 22:54
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Nerobro posted:You're too close to the bed, or overextruding. What you're seeing there is the excess filament bunching up, and scrunching like trying to push a blanket. Given how the rest of your first layer looks.... I'm going to go with overextruding. Cut it back 5%? By lowering the extrusion multiplier?
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Sep 15, 2023 23:08
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Listerine posted:By lowering the extrusion multiplier? That's where things get... funny. Maybe, probaly? Assuming you have a decent machine, you can kinda just go for it. If you've changed anything on the printer, first do a extruder calibration. Make sure it moves the right number of MM. Then, once you've done that, you tune the EM for your specific spool of filament. IF you tune your EM without having the extruder calibrated.. you're just kinda guessing.
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Sep 15, 2023 23:14
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Guess what?. (Why, you don't even need to). Apparently, despite speaking directly to the delivery company, giving them my phone number, buzzer code, etc, waiting for them at home, they still claim they tried to deliver. Called UPS, who then kept insisting on trying again on Monday and only when I told him for the 7th time to make the package available for pick-up did he get the message. I still bet they'll try to deliver it again on Monday. Fuckwits
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Sep 16, 2023 00:19
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Guess what?. (Why, you don't even need to). Oh well it says delivery refused and return to sender right here!
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Sep 16, 2023 00:21
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BINCH
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Sep 16, 2023 00:32
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Alright, now I know why the Matterhackers HIPS was $17, the spooled filament is bigger than the spool its on. I think I need to respool like 1/5 of a kg to get this to run in the AMS.
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Sep 16, 2023 00:53
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Here's a weird one. I've got a part with a bunch of narrow and fragile vertical sections connected to horizontal sections above and below. Something like this: code:I'm currently trying to print this on a P1P using a particular PLA filament, and the result is the same every time. Once the vertical sections complete, the nozzle will catch on one or two of the vertical bars and literally break them off. Most of the bars are fine and the print actually completes just fine, but it will always violently rip those bars. It's a little hard to tell what's happening, even when watching, so I don't know if it's actually a collision or if the filament is somehow briefly sticking to the nozzle and ripping away. Whatever it is, it's frustratingly consistent and happening on both of my P1Ps. The breaks occur where the part curves and I can reduce (but not eliminate) the problem by slowing the print way down. A smaller layer height will also greatly reduce the problem, although it'll still break. The prints complete fine on my Enders using the same filament. What's baffling me is that I can also complete the print on the P1Ps using different PLA, even different colors from the same brand. I've mostly ruled out the idea that it's a bad spool because I have a ton of this exact same color/brand of filament purchased at different times and it happens on every spool I've tried. This filament generally gives me flawless prints, so I have no idea where to even begin. It's also not particularly critical since I can obviously just print with a different filament or on a different machine, but it's really driving me nuts. I'd post a picture of the whole part, but it's just a job for a client who probably doesn't want it anywhere public. But here's a picture of one of the broken sections:  The bottom broke off cleanly. The top should just be a completely flat bridge, but that little lip on the left is where the nozzle either collides or just rips it off. Same thing will happen in basically the same place every single time.
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Sep 16, 2023 05:24
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The extreme overhang is curling up and then the nozzle is hitting it
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Sep 16, 2023 05:27
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I'm thinking the additive/color blend in that color takes it from not enough thermal stress to curl up enough to too much Contributing factors probably include different cooling on different printers (directionality, amount). It looks to me like there's more bend on one side than the other, which is light evidence for directionality. It's also possible that that color is slightly thicker causing just enough over extrusion to catch as well. I'm guessing you've moved from cura with the enders to bambu's slicer. They'll have different pathing, and there might be a repetitive movement that starts or stops at that end, increasing the difference from one side to the other. The additional speed may also be a contributing factor, allowing the part to stay hot longer and altering how thermal stresses accumulate.
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Sep 16, 2023 05:57
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Aurium posted:The additional speed may also be a contributing factor, allowing the part to stay hot longer and altering how thermal stresses accumulate. Also, just pushing filament out of the hotend faster will make warping/curling worse regardless of cooling - the longer the filament is melted, the more the polymer chains will relax and settle into the new shape, reducing internal stress and therefore reducing warping and curling. Shoving it through fast enough it can barely melt in time does the opposite, and boy do those Bambu printers love shoving filament through that hotend as fast as possible. Try turning down the overall speed, and/or use the “layer time” settings to get the printer to slow down automatically for small layers. Those both reduce the speed the filament is getting pushed at as well as giving each layer more time to cool before you dump more hot stressed plastic on top of it.
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Sep 16, 2023 14:06
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I think you guys are definitely right, I was just thrown by how consistent the failure was between those specific printers and this one particular color of filament. Ran off another print this morning and started watching a few layers before the failure, and the curling is definitely visible as it completes the last few layers. Looks like the nozzle is pretty much dragging across all the overhangs, it just happens to be hitting a couple with enough force to knock them loose. Anyway, guess I'll try drastically reducing speed across those overhangs and if that doesn't resolve the problem then I'll just give up and let the Enders take this one.
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Sep 16, 2023 14:42
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One thing that's always annoyed me about the 'layer time' setting: I really wish there was an option to do the same, but for smaller/isolated pieces. The worst offender for curling for me has usually been when there's a couple small bits on an otherwise large layer (Or if there are a bunch of them), meaning that the layer time setting doesn't do anything, because it'll spend enough time elsewhere to not trigger the slowdown. Really wish there was a 'ok, slow down when doing small, isolated bits' or equivalent setting, which would help fix that.
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Sep 16, 2023 15:16
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Halot lite update: Creality is sending me a new screen at no charge even though I fully admitted it was my fault killing it. I'll take it.
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Sep 16, 2023 16:24
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Where are people in the US getting PLA these days? I've been using hatchbox for a while but I'm running out and it's $25 a roll right now. I know folks have mentioned some much better deals than that recently.
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Sep 16, 2023 16:46
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armorer posted:Where are people in the US getting PLA these days? I've been using hatchbox for a while but I'm running out and it's $25 a roll right now. I know folks have mentioned some much better deals than that recently. iiidmax is my cheap go to filament for basic colors. Can be had for like $10/roll during their sales.
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Sep 16, 2023 16:49
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mattfl posted:iiidmax is my cheap go to filament for basic colors. Can be had for like $10/roll during their sales. Yeah that's a much better deal, although they want me to buy 10kg at once. I'll probably go that route.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:32
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armorer posted:Where are people in the US getting PLA these days? I've been using hatchbox for a while but I'm running out and it's $25 a roll right now. I know folks have mentioned some much better deals than that recently. I tend to just get whatever is cheap and well reviewed on Amazon. Which if color doesn't matter is usually Elegoo in black (currently $26 for 2kg).
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Sep 16, 2023 17:36
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armorer posted:Yeah that's a much better deal, although they want me to buy 10kg at once. I'll probably go that route. The tradeoff for savings with both IIID Max and Fremover.net's filaments is having to buy bulk-ish. IIID Max does have a sale on right now for black and white PLA+, 10% off 10 rolls with coupon code BW10. https://iiidmax.com/product/10-x-1kg-black-white-promo/
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Sep 16, 2023 17:55
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I tend to avoid white PLA because it is the most finicky. Usually I just go with a neutral gray and paint it if I care what color something is.
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Sep 16, 2023 17:57
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armorer posted:Where are people in the US getting PLA these days? I've been using hatchbox for a while but I'm running out and it's $25 a roll right now. I know folks have mentioned some much better deals than that recently. Got a Microcenter near you? I get them for about $20 apiece, with an entire aisle of colors.
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Sep 16, 2023 18:26
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The Elegoo PLA on amazon in 2 or 4 packs is usually incredibly cheap when it's in stock. I've gone through numerous rolls of the white without issue.
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Sep 16, 2023 18:33
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kid sinister posted:Got a Microcenter near you? I get them for about $20 apiece, with an entire aisle of colors. they’ve also got the spoolless PLA+ for $17, which is a pretty good deal if you’ve got any refillable spools on hand
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Sep 16, 2023 18:40
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kid sinister posted:Got a Microcenter near you? I get them for about $20 apiece, with an entire aisle of colors. Nah, Microcenter doesn't exist out here.
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Sep 16, 2023 19:14
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armorer posted:Where are people in the US getting PLA these days? I've been using hatchbox for a while but I'm running out and it's $25 a roll right now. I know folks have mentioned some much better deals than that recently. IIID MAX has been mentioned and I have a shitload of it. Fremover's colors feel worse (it's a little translucent sometimes, like they use less dye) but are sometimes noticeably cheaper. I want to try https://numakers.com/ though, because they offer not just a bulk discount but it applies across all the rolls in an order even if they're not PLA.
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Sep 16, 2023 20:37
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Huh, took a look at one of the sites I tend to buy filament from: Both Creality and eSun have rolled out 'high speed' PLA filaments, intended for high speed printers. A sensible way of selling PLA with slightly other additives at a higher price. Has anyone tried any of them? Creality Hyper PLA and eSun ePLA-HS. (eSun ePLA-HS is neat in that they provide some print settings for Bambu P/X, Creality K1, and Anker M5 printers specifically. At 22mm3/s they're a hair over the Bambulabs filaments (21)) Filament otherwise, I generally buy eSun and a local store's Storebrand (Polyalkemi), since they're the cheapest ones around here, and I've been very happy with them otherwise. (The annoyance with the local store's one is that they don't have a ton of colours, and are consistently sold out when I want stuff. They do some interesting custom orders though, like 'ryobi-like green petg' and stuff like that.)
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Sep 16, 2023 21:05
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kid sinister posted:Microcenter Took my 5-year old son today to get a UPS for my printer setup, my deal to him is he gets to pick a new color of filament whenever we go. We went home with a new shiny roll of glimmer blue PLA and some marble PLA that I was running short on. That store is dangerous as hell, I could burn through a ton of money there if I didn't have a little self control and a wife.
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Sep 16, 2023 21:17
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I have enough of a problem buying random filaments from Jeff Bezos' online superstore. Couldn't even imagine the damage to my wallet if I wasn't 60 miles away from a Microcenter
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Sep 16, 2023 22:04
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SubNat posted:Huh, took a look at one of the sites I tend to buy filament from: Both Creality and eSun have rolled out 'high speed' PLA filaments, intended for high speed printers. A sensible way of selling PLA with slightly other additives at a higher price. I wonder what makes it HS in particular? Do you think maybe it just has a lower temperature requirement to melt so you can get more filament out in the same amount of time? Like you are less likely to run into thermal constraints for speed?
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Sep 16, 2023 22:09
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IncredibleIgloo posted:? Max flow isn’t really about temperature (I mean it is a little bit but just increasing the temp or lowering the melting point won’t necessarily make it print faster), it’s more about thermal conductivity of the material - how fast can the heat get from where the filament touches the hotend to the center of the filament? My assumption was that the high speed filament is more thermally conductive. I believe filaments with metal bits in them can sometimes be printed at a higher max flow rate than “normal” PLA as well.
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Sep 17, 2023 01:14
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deimos posted:Re: PEI, I sand (the flat PEI sheet) with a 3M microgrit pad, it's like 1200 grit. Extremely light pass ONCE, has not failed me yet. But I do wash my PEI with dish soap every now and then because IPA just moves grease and oil around. From a few pages back but i can't resist adding my own opinion! Don't even bother with alcohol imo. As noted, you need to remove the grease, not just dissolve and reposition it. You can do this successfully by flushing the bed with a continuous stream of alcohol that is then discarded, like how you clean brake rotors. But that's dumb and wasteful. Dish soap is designed specifically to make grease water-soluble, and it works great for cleaning beds. If you get a fingerprint on the bed, yeah, you can probably remove it with a paper towel saturated in alcohol, but if you're having trouble printing, you need to actually wash it. If the surface eventually becomes tired out and stuff still won't stick after a thorough cleaning, you can resurface it. Sanding with sandpaper is generally excessive and unnecessary. The 3M scotchbrite pads work well. The blue ones are just stiff plastic; they might do something but I suspect they aren't hard enough to really affect the surface. Green is actually abrasive, impregnated with fine particles of aluminum oxide grit. They will certainly scuff up the surface to the desired level. Red and brown ones meant for removing paint and such and are too aggressive for this task. (incidentally, this is also why you shouldn't use green ones on your teflon cookware, or even make a habit of using them for all your general dishwashing. blue is fine to use every day) However, my favorite way of cleaning and resurfacing the bed is to use powdered bleach cleaner, like Comet or Ajax. It's a fine abrasive, so rubbing it on will scuff the surface slightly just like a mild scotch-brite pad. But it's also a detergent, and on top of that the bleach is slightly more aggressive than regular soap in dissolving oils. I've never had a problem with PEI adhesion after that treatment. The stuff also costs like 59 cents a can. Works great.
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Sep 17, 2023 06:06
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Speaking of filaments: If you're in the nordic countries, check out Clas Ohlsson. In Finland they have PLA for 25€/1kg roll, but with the 3-for-2 deal they have for filaments, it comes out to only ~16,70€/1kg roll. I assume Clas Ohlsson will have similar deals in other countries too. Though outside of the basic black/white filament, they skimp on the dyes so they are basically translucent. Haven't tried PETG yet, so I don't know if it's the same thing on those filaments, but it probably is.
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Sep 17, 2023 10:16
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Uncle Jessy has a video looking at his Prusa XL. Not a full review but a look at it after a few days of use. He does a lot of cosplay helmets so he's got a few large format printers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy-p_C7GRyk
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Sep 17, 2023 14:37
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Ugh. I had all kinds of fits trying to print a bee puzzle. It had 3 different colors and God forbid that I print all of the blacks and yellows at once. The first layer would always lift at the edge and stick to the print head. I eventually had to divide each print in half. And then the head crashes with the blacks! Ugh. Does anyone have any tips for printing big jobs like that where it's lots of small things that fill the print bed?
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Sep 17, 2023 20:32
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If you're in prusaslicer, under print settings -> output options, you can check "complete individual objects" and it'll do each piece on the bed separately. You need to be careful with making sure your gantry has the correct amount of clearance for it, though.
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Sep 17, 2023 20:44
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Nerobro posted:That's where things get... funny. Maybe, probaly? Assuming you have a decent machine, you can kinda just go for it. If you've changed anything on the printer, first do a extruder calibration. Make sure it moves the right number of MM. Then, once you've done that, you tune the EM for your specific spool of filament. IF you tune your EM without having the extruder calibrated.. you're just kinda guessing. Goddammit, I had nice instructions bookmarked for doing calibration tasks like this and after switching to a new computer I must not have loaded the correct boomark backup file. Does anyone have good go-to guides for calibration tasks?
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Sep 17, 2023 20:53
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Listerine posted:
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ It's not 100% relevant to non voron printers, but the steps are sound depending on your flavor of printer. It does work easiest with klipper /super slicer though
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Sep 17, 2023 21:35
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 02:46 |
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SubNat posted:Filament otherwise, I generally buy eSun and a local store's Storebrand (Polyalkemi) Haha, really? Seems a bit cheeky for a brand name when Polyalchemy is a brand of premium filament.. 😮
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Sep 17, 2023 22:26
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