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To what extent can I trust that an official VW used car dealer is actually doing maintenance checks etc properly before handing over the vehicle? It's a 2020 new model Golf hybrid and it comes with a 12 month warranty and about 25000KM (there was an option for an extension but you had to finance the vehicle to get that, and either the guy didn't understand the terms or they were absolutely outrageous so we passed). I assume that since any problems will just result in me taking the car straight back in for maintenance VW has some sort of quality control in place for their branded dealers? Have never bought a car before and can't exactly check myself. e: 2 year warranty extension would have cost ~1.3k euros net. Doesn't include the upcoming scheduled maintenance so doesn't seem like a great deal for such a new vehicle right? distortion park fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 14:11
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distortion park posted:To what extent can I trust that an official VW used car dealer is actually doing maintenance checks etc properly before handing over the vehicle? It's a 2020 new model Golf hybrid and it comes with a 12 month warranty (there was an option for an extension but you had to finance the vehicle to get that, and either the guy didn't understand the terms or they were absolutely outrageous so we passed). I assume that since any problems will just result in me taking the car straight back in for maintenance VW has some sort of quality control in place for their branded dealers? Have never bought a car before and can't exactly check myself. is it Certified Preowned by VW, or is it some dealer-specific warranty? If it’s the former then yes, you can count on it having been subjected to a multipoint inspection and refurbishment by Corporate under pain of whatever warranty claims you could make for x amount of time/miles, etc If it’s the latter then that’s between you and the dealer, but I’d probably trust it less than CPO.
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Sep 25, 2023 14:20
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Ok Comboomer posted:is it Certified Preowned by VW, or is it some dealer-specific warranty? If it’s the former then yes, you can count on it having been subjected to a multipoint inspection and refurbishment by Corporate under pain of whatever warranty claims you could make for x amount of time/miles, etc I don't have the papers in front of me right now but it covers repairs in any VW dealership throughout Europe so I guess it's the former, will double check thanks. Good to know that if it is one then the dealer is on the hook for any repairs!
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Sep 25, 2023 14:29
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distortion park posted:I don't have the papers in front of me right now but it covers repairs in any VW dealership throughout Europe so I guess it's the former, will double check thanks. Good to know that if it is one then the dealer is on the hook for any repairs! if it’s been certified by VW then it’s not the dealer on the hook, it’s VW
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Sep 25, 2023 14:34
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Ok Comboomer posted:if it’s been certified by VW then it’s not the dealer on the hook, it’s VW At least how it works in the US is that the OEM sells the branded CPO warranty to the dealer on receipt of the CPO inspection for the specific car. The dealer makes money on the sale of the car and the OEM makes money on the sale of the warranty. It's possible for the dealer to pencil-whip the inspection but they basically get paid for it so they tend to do a decent job. The OEM obviously also cares about the quality of inspection performed because it's a key part of how they can actually make money,
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Sep 25, 2023 14:37
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The counterpoint is that the qualification for "can this be sold CPO" is really pretty minimal despite whatever their two-billion-point inspection says, and "the PO provided the dealer with meticulous service records" is not one of them. Now in reality? A MY2020 car with 25k kilometers on it is on maybe its second or third oil change. It has almost certainly needed nothing else, scheduled or otherwise. About the only way a lack of maintenance could have hurt the car already is if the PO literally never changed the oil in that time.
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Sep 25, 2023 15:03
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25,000km / 15,000mi isn't enough for any modern car to show any wear at all on anything except tires and brake pads. idk if even the clumsiest, slipping-it-on-a-hillingest doofus could kill a clutch in that amount of highway miles. maybe city miles. an inspection at 25,000km is pretty much just looking for outright damage, not wear and tear. even not changing the oil for that interval might not do anything.
Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 16:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:At least how it works in the US is that the OEM sells the branded CPO warranty to the dealer on receipt of the CPO inspection for the specific car. The dealer makes money on the sale of the car and the OEM makes money on the sale of the warranty. Yea the CPO model is well established for USA but I am not sure how the analogues in Europe function, and would not want to make a claim on how those work and end up costing the guy money. If you’re asking if there’s any way to know if a business is lying about having performed an inspection, no not really. But if it’s similar to CPO in USA then you should be ok.
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Sep 25, 2023 17:01
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nadmonk posted:3M plastic emblem and trim adhesive might work. They usually have that at most auto parts stores. You would probably want to get the trim piece fully off and both surfaces cleaned first thought.
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Sep 25, 2023 19:42
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Brad Logan posted:What's a good adhesive for reattaching a plastic trim ring on a steering wheel? My 2012 Yukon's fake wood trim ring popped halfway off today, and I was thinking I can shove some glue in there but I wasn't sure what would stick to the leather underneath. New wheels from RockAuto are like $300 CAD also.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:13
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How did the 2CV get away with no head gasket? The common answer is "it was machined incredibly well" which uh I guess then any high end car should be doing the same, eliminate a part, eliminate future maintenance headache etc that high end manufacturers would want to take advantage of. Who wouldn't want a rolls royce with almost 0 chance of head gasket failure, just machine then polish it to a fine finish. I guess Bugatti in the 1920s-30s did hand scraping for their block-head joints (because of course they did) but I'm unsure if they used a gasket or not. Looking at some photos I guess the heads had a bit of a conical fit to the cylinder? And then you could lap it? Is that at all correct or am I way off. Maybe you can get away with lapping the heads when it's a flat twin.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:13
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Hadlock posted:How did the 2CV get away with no head gasket? The common answer is "it was machined incredibly well" which uh I guess then any high end car should be doing the same, eliminate a part, eliminate future maintenance headache etc that high end manufacturers would want to take advantage of. Who wouldn't want a rolls royce with almost 0 chance of head gasket failure, just machine then polish it to a fine finish. I guess Bugatti in the 1920s-30s did hand scraping for their block-head joints (because of course they did) but I'm unsure if they used a gasket or not. I don't know anything about it besides what you've written in your post but the real answer is probably that a 2cv has such small combustion chamber pressures that it's just not a problem. A rolls phantom for example has ~20x the horsepower and much of that is from the combustion chamber pressures being higher. I also don't know how well the two components (head and block) heat up in symmetry, I know they're actively cooled on modern cars but I suspect the head gets hot before the block - meaning that if you tried to machine interlocking channels or something you'd end up with a lot of weird stress being exhibited on the ridges over and over as they strain against each other.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:18
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Anyone have any luck using Cars and Bids? I'm getting ready to sell my Mazda and I'm wondering if it's worth it over CL and FBM.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:23
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Anyone have any luck using Cars and Bids? I'm getting ready to sell my Mazda and I'm wondering if it's worth it over CL and FBM. What Mazda? Are we talking about an RX-7, because then you absolutely should. Something like an AWD Mazdaspeed 6? 323 GTX? More than 20 years old and in excellent condition? I definitely would if it's any of those things. If it's a relatively normal car, I probably wouldn't.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:44
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poo poo even my lawn mower engine has a head gasket
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Sep 26, 2023 02:45
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Twerk from Home posted:What Mazda? Are we talking about an RX-7, because then you absolutely should. Something like an AWD Mazdaspeed 6? 323 GTX? More than 20 years old and in excellent condition? I definitely would if it's any of those things. If it's a relatively normal car, I probably wouldn't. You could probably find a better market for like a clean rust free Mazda6 or something but yeah if it’s the goon standard 2010 Mazda3 with 170k miles I’d give it a pass. You’re likely to get a better Miata market on C&B although probably not better than any of the speciality forums.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:58
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Nah it's my happy, little, lightly massaged Mazda2. Probably stick with the locals then for now. I just want to avoid as many crazies as possible. I suppose I'll go to Cars and Bids or Bring a Trailer if I ever sell the El Camino or the 356 or something.
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Sep 26, 2023 03:02
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Nah it's my happy, little, lightly massaged Mazda2. Probably stick with the locals then for now. I just want to avoid as many crazies as possible. I suppose I'll go to Cars and Bids or Bring a Trailer if I ever sell the El Camino or the 356 or something. is it manual? I might strongly consider putting it on C&B if it were
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Sep 26, 2023 03:12
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Yeah if it’s stick I’d go internet those things got a kind of cult following
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Sep 26, 2023 03:24
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Oh, huh ok. Yes a manual. I really love the car, but with 4 others (3 running!), 2 bieks, a baby and another baby on the way, it's time to clear out a little bit. Though the 2 has been the absolute best fun to drive around town at 10/10 and not break the speed limit (too much). Once I get around to making an add I'll post it in the AI marketplace too.
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Sep 26, 2023 07:06
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Don't know if this is the right thread for it, but I need to get my wife a new car, as her 2012 VW is finally hitting the skids. Obviously, car dealers are the absolute scum of the earth, so I'd like to interact with them as little as possible. Any car buying services worth a drat?
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Sep 26, 2023 12:40
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Hah, Cars and Bids said no to listing - I sold them back and they said that they don't do "economy cars". Back to the unwashed masses with me then!
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Sep 26, 2023 14:30
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Hah, Cars and Bids said no to listing - I sold them back and they said that they don't do "economy cars". Back to the unwashed masses with me then! if it's in good shape you could give it a shot on BaT. they had like K cars and civics and camrys and poo poo
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Sep 26, 2023 14:58
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Hah, Cars and Bids said no to listing - I sold them back and they said that they don't do "economy cars". Back to the unwashed masses with me then! don’t feel bad, Doug & Bids is failing
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Sep 26, 2023 15:33
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Ok Comboomer posted:don’t feel bad, Doug & Bids is failing Is it, how so?
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Sep 26, 2023 15:39
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Inner Light posted:Is it, how so? https://youtu.be/XAWcKYt2mbM?si=YEzfsV3VftmhZEfz lol they won’t let you sell a manual Mazda2/Yaris, a platform they literally make race cars out of, but they’ll gladly sell an HHR with vents cut into the hood
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Sep 26, 2023 15:45
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Ok Comboomer posted:https://youtu.be/XAWcKYt2mbM?si=YEzfsV3VftmhZEfz im not gonna fuckin watch all that but the premise of the video seems flawed. like is the existence of that HHR an indicator that they aren't making money? i doubt it. edit: i watched some of it and it's just some dudes raggin on the cars. ok.
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Sep 26, 2023 15:50
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VelociBacon posted:I don't know anything about it besides what you've written in your post but the real answer is probably that a 2cv has such small combustion chamber pressures that it's just not a problem. A rolls phantom for example has ~20x the horsepower and much of that is from the combustion chamber pressures being higher. I also don't know how well the two components (head and block) heat up in symmetry, I know they're actively cooled on modern cars but I suspect the head gets hot before the block - meaning that if you tried to machine interlocking channels or something you'd end up with a lot of weird stress being exhibited on the ridges over and over as they strain against each other. the head and cylinder have gotta be lapped to each other for this to work, right? i don't see any other way this works at any cylinder pressure above atmosphere
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Sep 26, 2023 16:25
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Ok Comboomer posted:https://youtu.be/XAWcKYt2mbM?si=YEzfsV3VftmhZEfz This really doesn’t show that C&B is failing in any way. Cars seem to be selling around what you’d expect them to. And in any auction site, there a few outliers. I’d imagine they’d so no to a non-ST Fiesta or a non-GTI Golf. The HHR you mention is an SS, whose power plant set the Nurburgring record for FWD cars for almost a decade.
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Sep 26, 2023 18:03
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They'll accept what they'll accept and not accept whatever, there is no solid foundation or rule for what is accepted. Keis are unique weirdos from overseas, Camrys and Civics are either nostalgia bombs, analog ~feels~ or endangered species, take your pick. What they will or won't accept is based on VIBES. The Mazda2 doesn't have the vibes that a beige Camry wagon from 1996 has, that's all. There is no hard rules for this, they got people that make the call at the time and that's all.
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Sep 26, 2023 18:12
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The passenger seat in my 2018 Buick Regal TourX is stuck. The left rail doesn’t move when the seat motor turns, but the right rail does. I think my wife shoved some of kids toys under seat during our road trip and that is what caused the issue. Dealership quoted me $1500. It looks like it’s about a $550 part for online, so dealer is probably billing me 4-5 hours of labor? I don’t think they did any serious diagnostic beyond a visual inspection to see if something was stuck in the rail. https://www.autopartsexpress.net/oe...wbC1sNC1nYXM%3D I am debating buying a torx bit set and unbolting the chair to see if their is anything to be done. As long as I am not unplugging stuff I shouldn’t have worry about electronics and the air bag systems right? Would i want a torque wrench to put things back together? I haven’t tinkered with cars in years since I sold my BRZ and most of that was just cosmetic repairs and replacing small pipes with bigger pipes. I suppose the other option is take it to an independent mechanic.
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Sep 26, 2023 18:53
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Calidus posted:The passenger seat in my 2018 Buick Regal TourX is stuck. The left rail doesn’t move when the seat motor turns, but the right rail does. I think my wife shoved some of kids toys under seat during our road trip and that is what caused the issue. Dealership quoted me $1500. It looks like it’s about a $550 part for online, so dealer is probably billing me 4-5 hours of labor? I don’t think they did any serious diagnostic beyond a visual inspection to see if something was stuck in the rail. It's not too bad, removing and reinstalling a seat. Assuming all bolts are accessible with the seat in its current position, since it's stuck. You're probably going to want to unplug things, since the connectors at the base of a car seat aren't very long. Remove the negative battery cable, let any capacitors drain, etc., before you pull the seat, but it's a low risk operation. I would get a torque wrench to make sure the reinstallation goes to plan. It's probably not 100% necessary, but better to use one than not. You might get away with a flash light, an inspection mirror, and a little grabber-on-a-stick thing if it's a kid's toy wedged in the mechanism.
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Sep 26, 2023 20:26
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Start with the light, mirror, and grabber, and have a torx bit set to lift it up to see. If toys got shoved in there, it's possible that something got unplugged and you can remedy it by just checking all the connections. Or just take it out and put it back, maybe it got dislodged?
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Sep 26, 2023 21:07
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I poked around with a flashlight, things seem clear but I can see that the plastic cross bar which holds what I think is the motor was knocked out of place because it’s now sitting on top of the head of one of blots. That is supposed keeping everything aligned. Is the torque wrench something I just get cheap via harbor freight or Amazon? Is a 40lb or 50lb one good enough? Should I expect to be able to find a spec sheet that would tell me the rating?
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Sep 26, 2023 21:36
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You can get three different torque wrenches for like $40 from harbor freight. It’s absolutely the way to go. You might be able to find torque specs in forums and stuff, but your best bet is a shop manual.
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Sep 26, 2023 21:47
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Safety Dance posted:It's not too bad, removing and reinstalling a seat. Assuming all bolts are accessible with the seat in its current position, since it's stuck. You're probably going to want to unplug things, since the connectors at the base of a car seat aren't very long. Remove the negative battery cable, let any capacitors drain, etc., before you pull the seat, but it's a low risk operation. I would get a torque wrench to make sure the reinstallation goes to plan. It's probably not 100% necessary, but better to use one than not. Make sure you unplug the battery first because I don’t know anything about this model but the airbags on some cars can get set off taking the seat out if you don’t unplug the battery first. And that’s bad.
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Sep 26, 2023 23:16
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Project Farm did a review of torque wrenches recently and the HF models scored pretty well from what I recall, top 3 maybe?
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Sep 27, 2023 00:36
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Hadlock posted:How did the 2CV get away with no head gasket? The common answer is "it was machined incredibly well" which uh I guess then any high end car should be doing the same, eliminate a part, eliminate future maintenance headache etc that high end manufacturers would want to take advantage of. Who wouldn't want a rolls royce with almost 0 chance of head gasket failure, just machine then polish it to a fine finish. I guess Bugatti in the 1920s-30s did hand scraping for their block-head joints (because of course they did) but I'm unsure if they used a gasket or not. So I've still not found a good video of the lapping process, but apparently the cylinder/cylinder head mating surface is not perpendicular to the motion of the piston rod. It's sort of conical shaped, with the "male" cylinder head (hollow) cone pushing up onto a matching female cone  Here is an example of manually lapping the joint I guess because the 2cv has separate crank case, cylinder, and head, it makes it pretty easy to throw this on a lathe and cut the correct angle cone (guess?). Apparently both JAP and Vincent used this methodology on their engines at one point I guess you could apply this to a traditional engine, you'd need to press fit the cones into the top of the block and then bore it, which is probably not economical at scale, plus you'd need a true modular head as each joint would be a slightly different head Edit: from a Vincent message board quote:I can tell you how I do it. I hold the head in a vice with the open hemisphere upwards. I hold the barrel in my hands. I use fine valve grinding compound on the narrow face and coarse on the broad face. I continue uintil there is an even colour on both faces all the way round. I clean everything upwards, as often as I need during the process, to inspect the faces and re-apply fresh compound as needed. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Sep 27, 2023 |
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Sep 27, 2023 07:38
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Hadlock posted:Project Farm did a review of torque wrenches recently and the HF models scored pretty well from what I recall, top 3 maybe? I had a set of the HF Pittsburgh torque wrenches. For what they were they worked just fine and got me through. I just recently upgraded the 3/8" to the digital GearWrench torque wrench when it went on sale.
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Sep 27, 2023 13:23
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Troubling times for my 2008 Mazda5. My transmission light (which Mazda5s apparently have) and engine light recently turned on, so I took my car to a transmission shop on Monday to look at. They said that the transmission fluid was low and replaced it, with the suggestion to see if that solves things--if the transmission is dead the car is beat up enough in other ways that it probably doesn't make sense to replace. Things seemed better yesterday after driving to work and back (~45 minutes each way), but this morning on my way to work I felt a lurch as I was driving (keeping pace on a road--not immediately after a light or anything) and the engine light and AT/transmission light popped on again. The AT light turned off when I turned the car off and on again, but the engine light kept on (this is how it was acting just before I got it to the shop, too--the lights coming on and off with one bout of lurching during gear-shifts as I parked). I'm assuming this means that my transmission is dying, but I'm not sure what that means to me on a practical level. Is there any chance that taking it to the shop could result in a fix that's not worth more than the car (which had been technically totaled from cosmetic damage when it was hit and run while parked a bit ago, and which has been damaged while parked multiple times since), or is this a "just squeeze as much life out of it as you can, but don't expect to be driving it in a year" situation, or is it a "car is a death-trap, don't get back in it, just tow it to a mechanic or junkyard" situation? Or am I being dumb and should I just suck it up and replace the transmission? The car's ~165k miles, so in theory it should have some life left in its other parts. It's been beat to poo poo, but all the damage has been to bumpers and tail lights and windshields and side-mirrors and tires, which shouldn't have a big impact on its long-term life, right?
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Sep 27, 2023 17:20
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