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I went to the Ace today at lunch and the old dudes all took turns asking if I needed help every time I changed areas. More helpfully, local hardware / lowesdepot / amazon should all have something like https://www.amazon.com/Ceaeso-Faucet-Adapter-Aerator-Bathroom/dp/B0C8LYF83M or some other fashion of regular faucet to garden hose. As long as it's not an integrated sprayer you should be fine.
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Sep 27, 2023 04:11
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Jenkl posted:In the process, I discovered my high-loop was more of a molehill than a mountain and fixed that (below is not fixed) as best I could. Circling back to this, I actually stopped to check and even after me raising it a bunch, the high loop peaks at around 26", instead of the 32" the install manual asks for. I don't really understand the purpose (something about backflow but also siphoning?) so I don't know how concerned I should be, and how hard I should work to fix it. Any input?
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Sep 27, 2023 22:45
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Jenkl posted:Circling back to this, I actually stopped to check and even after me raising it a bunch, the high loop peaks at around 26", instead of the 32" the install manual asks for. The purpose is keeping water from your sinks from ending up in the dishwasher. If the water is higher than the top of the high loop it's just as likely to go into the dishwasher as it is down the drain. So in that situation if you ever stopper up a sink and fill it when you pull the stopper there's going to be water from the sink going into your dishwasher and the drain in some proportion until the sink drains below the top of the high loop. I find it to be a particular problem when the dishwasher drain is plumbed into a garbage disposal, because those tend to act like a pump depending on what's in there and will send bits and pieces into the dishwasher hose. You just need more hose and a male to male barbed fitting as well as something to hang the hose on at the top of the loop to make this so you never have to think about it again.
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Sep 28, 2023 13:49
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Thanks for the tips, as usual. So I was looking at this to add a proper loop and realized the existing material starts to kink in the tight space, so I need to switch to a corrugated hose. So I'm looking to replace it with a single 10' hose, the maximum per the manual. Measuring things to confirm, and I discover an interesting twist that might explain the original state of things: I need 10 1/2 feet of hose. There might be some inches of savings depending on exactly how it's run under the cabinets, but I can't quite be sure. My guess is the 10' is based on what the dishwasher pump can handle when discharging, so going over on that is going to be worse than being a bit under ideal high-loop. But that really is a guess. That sound kind of right? Save me Mobi-wan, you're my only hope!
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Sep 28, 2023 23:40
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I typically use what the manufacturer recommends from the dishwasher to as far as it can go. Mine is the stock Bosch corrugated hose up to a point, then a dishwasher extension hose, which is a totally "you'll find it anywhere" thing: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Dishwasher-Drain-Hose-Replacement/dp/B093BPZJ4P/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dishwasher+hose+extension&sr=8-3 You don't appear to have that stock hose anymore, but your problem is really really not unique, so all the parts are there for you. Including a hose long enough to just go from your dishwasher to the drain. Just measure the ends so you know what you need and figure out how much extra length you're missing. If it's 10 feet instead of 6 the "extension hose" I linked will probably do the job because it has multiple sizes on the ends. Do not worry about what the pump is "rated for", pump rating are about rise, and I guarantee you the pump in your dishwasher is rated to rise to a high loop and then some. The length, unless ridiculously excessive, is pretty much irrelevant. I guarantee you if you show up with the existing hose and say "I need it <x> feet longer" at a local hardware store (not a big box store) they will have what you need in stock......and probably for under $30. They will either give you what you need to extend it or a whole new hose, whichever makes sense and is immediately available. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Sep 28, 2023 |
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Sep 28, 2023 23:53
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The stock hose is there coming from the washer, the black tubing is the current extension. I should be able to assemble something that's long enough but not too long. Key thing for me was knowing going a bit over 10' isn't going to be a problem.
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Sep 29, 2023 00:13
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Jenkl posted:The stock hose is there coming from the washer, the black tubing is the current extension. Oh even easier, I didn't remember seeing that. Jenkl posted:I should be able to assemble something that's long enough but not too long. Key thing for me was knowing going a bit over 10' isn't going to be a problem. Yeah, you're all good on that unless the dishwasher is in the basement and the drain is on the second floor.
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Sep 29, 2023 00:19
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you guys got any cool tips for loosening an anode rod? I've got a breaker bar and a 4 ft floor jack handle but I gotta figure out some way to hold the heater in place
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Sep 29, 2023 03:56
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Use an impact wrench, there's really no substitute for it. The battery powered ones are amazing tools to keep around, and high end ones can be as good as or better than pneumatic ones. Take a sharpie or pencil and draw a line across the top of the bolt and onto the water heater housing. That way you can tell as soon as it starts to break free at which point you can switch over to regular tools to save the heater from a bit of vibration. Just be sure to flush the sediment out of the tank after you complete the replacement, because the vibration from the impact wrench will shake free a lot of stuff on the anode rod and on the walls of the tank.
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Sep 29, 2023 10:45
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Finally, all done. Of course I realize only at the very end my kick plates (toe kicks?) are only on with screws and I could have had full access under the cabinets the whole time. What started as "add kitchen sink shut-offs" turned into that plus replace two multi turns, replace dishwasher supply, fix faucet supply, repair dishwasher door springs, and replace the drain hose to set up the loop right. My wife jokes as we finished up on the dishwasher drain, "and that's how you add a shut-off". One final question on this saga, it is normal to have some water stay in the drain line, right? The pump isn't going to clear it 100% and that is ok... ?
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Oct 1, 2023 14:20
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You have described what is a normal arc in home repair and maintenance. You are powerless to change the process. Prepare to be absorbed. And yes, it is normal for there to be some water sitting in the bottom of the loop. Well done.
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Oct 1, 2023 15:16
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Haha yeah I regularly rewatch "Hal changes a light bulb" to remember how these things go.
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Oct 1, 2023 16:10
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Debating if I want to fix this myself. Seems easy enough.  It looks like the gaskets essentially failed? Are the sink traps relatively standard? Or should I remove this old one and bring it with me to the store? Anything I should be aware of/tips?
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Oct 2, 2023 22:07
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c355n4 posted:It looks like the gaskets essentially failed? Are the sink traps relatively standard? Or should I remove this old one and bring it with me to the store? Anything I should be aware of/tips? Bring it with you to the store, but they are relative standard. There are some difference in basket height, etc. I use plumbers putty to install them because of exactly what's happening in that picture. The gaskets simply don't last. If you can remove your cleanly you probably don't even need to replace it. Just clean everything up, buy some plumbers putty, make a rope of it to go on top of the sink/under the drain basket and reinstall. Clean up whatever extra squooshes out as you tighten the basket back down.
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Oct 2, 2023 22:26
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Seconding plumber’s putty on drain & other fixture interfaces. Never fails.
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Oct 3, 2023 00:04
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Edit: got a good rec. In the fox it fast thread.
DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Oct 3, 2023 |
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Oct 3, 2023 15:45
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I'm learning to be a plumber in the UK through an evening class. Exams and practical work is going well, but it's all in a classroom/workshop. What don't they tell you at plumbing school? What should I be ready for out there in the world?
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Oct 7, 2023 17:12
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Azza Bamboo posted:I'm learning to be a plumber in the UK through an evening class. Exams and practical work is going well, but it's all in a classroom/workshop. What don't they tell you at plumbing school? What should I be ready for out there in the world? A lot of people are completely gross and their homes are even grosser. This should be stressed to anyone in any trade that has to do inside residential work so they can reconsider their choices in life and choose to specialize in new construction or commercial.
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Oct 7, 2023 17:15
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Motronic posted:A lot of people are completely gross and their homes are even grosser. This should be stressed to anyone in any trade that has to do inside residential work. People will also lie through their teeth if it benefits them, including accusations of crime (theft, willful damage.) And complain about cost. Document document document. Take quick before/after pics of what you're working on - just so you can show condition on arrival and condition on departure. Spend the extra 5 minutes when you're writing your ticket to do a full sentence about everything you're going to do and how much it will cost, then make them sign it. In the USA this is universally on duplicate (etc) paper and you can just tear out and leave them a copy when you're done.
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Oct 7, 2023 17:24
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I don't know if this is more plumbing or HVAC, but I want to replace the fart fan in my bathroom. Issue the first: The current fan is original to the house (1970). This fan is a 6" directly into a vertical vent through the roof. I cannot change this into a horizontal vent because: Issue the second: I have no access to the attic. The roof on this house is stupidly low pitched, and it's only about 1-3 feet from ceiling to roof and full of trusses. I'm having a hell of a time finding one locally. The closest I found is this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-HG...C72&sr=8-3&th=1 Does anyone have any experience with this particular scenario?
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Oct 7, 2023 19:34
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Azza Bamboo posted:I'm learning to be a plumber in the UK through an evening class. Exams and practical work is going well, but it's all in a classroom/workshop. What don't they tell you at plumbing school? What should I be ready for out there in the world? People are super gross, their homes are super weird, and if you're working for someone rather than being an independent tradesman, be ready for them to very likely being a crude, abusive rear end in a top hat. Also expect that the school is mostly going to teach you how to do things when things work as they should, they will not prepare you for the janky situations where you're working on someone's weird DIY hack or some other non-standard setup.
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Oct 7, 2023 19:38
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I've already seen some jank. I looked in the airing cupboard of the house I'm renting and there is a new pump fitted with a mess of unbraced speedfit and braided pipe. The pipework convulses whenever the pump switches on and I hope I'm out of here before one of the joints fail.
Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Oct 7, 2023 |
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Oct 7, 2023 21:39
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Motronic posted:A lot of people are completely gross and their homes are even grosser. Yup. There's a reason for the #1 rule for plumbers: " Don't bite your fingernails." Oh yeah, and your toolbelt must pull down your pants enough that everyone sees your butt crack.
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Oct 8, 2023 00:44
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Not sure if this thread or HVAC is more appropriate. I have a water heater with powered exhaust, one pipe so the intake is right at the top there. It has always had a high pitched whine, but today I noticed what sounds like a slight rumble or almost flutter? Standing above it just outside the laundry room, I actually thought the washer was on a spin dry cycle, if that helps characterize it at all. Standing in front of the water heater, the noise sounded too irregular or low-frequency to actually be the fan itself. More like a partial obstruction? I do have an CO monitor in the basement and there's no warning of exhaust problems (yet). Obviously I'm afraid it's like, dust or crap down inside the combustion chamber, which would seem real bad. If it was something blocking the exhaust pipe, could a shop vac pull it out? Or would I have to get more involved like opening the pipe, blowing a ping-pong ball through, and then pulling something to scrub the inside? Or is this just beyond doable by myself? Note: It does NOT sound like knocking or anything from the water tank itself, the noise definitely is audible from the air intake area, so I don't think it's sediment or anything inside.
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Oct 8, 2023 23:01
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Rescue Toaster posted:Not sure if this thread or HVAC is more appropriate. I have a water heater with powered exhaust, one pipe so the intake is right at the top there. It has always had a high pitched whine, but today I noticed what sounds like a slight rumble or almost flutter? Did you try some percussive maintenance? If it's anything like mine, the vent is constructed out of lovely sheet metal and is barely attached. Sometimes it rattles until I hit it a few times.
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Oct 8, 2023 23:18
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The vent is PVC pipe that has a fairly long (at least 20 feet) run horizontal to outside. The fan housing is all plastic too.
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Oct 8, 2023 23:28
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There is an electric fan that moves air. Faulty fan bearing can make a high pitch whine
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Oct 8, 2023 23:54
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The high pitched whine has been there forever and I'm assuming is normal. This is more of a flutter/rumble sound somewhere in the air system. Like when you crack one window when driving and get a pulsing/flutter effect. But not that dramatic, obviously.
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Oct 9, 2023 00:04
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Disconnect the power vent from the PVC flue line and vacuum them both out. Still sounds like a bad bearing, since new.
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Oct 9, 2023 01:47
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devicenull posted:RO is great, you'll never want to go back. i got a double filter system after your recommendation and it fuckin rules, i love how convenient this thing is
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Oct 11, 2023 06:14
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My water heater started leaking water while I take a shower or use a lot of hot water. The pressure tank has air in it. There’s some construction in my area and they might have increased the pressure. I’m reading around 60psi. I tried to pressurize the pressure tank to 60psi so it should match. I haven’t tried using the hot water yet today. If it’s still leaking it’s probably the valve?
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Oct 12, 2023 00:09
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Where is the water leaking from?
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Oct 12, 2023 00:48
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Nitrox posted:Where is the water leaking from? From the pressure relief valve. I did notice it was leaking again so I ordered a new valve.
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Oct 12, 2023 12:53
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Note that it's perfectly normal for the pressure relief valve to drip over the course of a day, so unless it's a constant trickle, there's not necessarily anything wrong.
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Oct 12, 2023 13:03
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New homeowner here. I'd like to replace the drain in my bathtub with something more functional The current issue is that I don't know how to remove the existing drain which looks like this:  The DIY videos I've found usually are about removing a drain that has cross bars and use an appropriate wrench. To remove the drain should I be using something like this? https://www.homehardware.ca/en/1-12-tub-drain-extractor/p/3286601 just wondering if this is some standard thing or not thanks in advance!
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Oct 13, 2023 01:04
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PurpleXVI posted:Note that it's perfectly normal for the pressure relief valve to drip over the course of a day, so unless it's a constant trickle, there's not necessarily anything wrong. I had never noticed water dripping from the valve before, which is why I was concerned. I didn't know it would normally drip. It really only does it when we use hot water, so showering or washing dishes it will drip and it seems like more than a drip.
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Oct 13, 2023 01:20
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prokaryote posted:New homeowner here. I'd like to replace the drain in my bathtub with something more functional I used that tool to remove one that had the broken cross bars at the bottom. It worked good, but I had to hammer it in a bit. Then I turned it back with a ratchet and extension while still keeping some weight on it just in case. If your piece is metal then it might be a bit different. Depending on how big the holes are, you might be able to use a sacrificial (in case they break) pair of needle nose pliers and turn those a big set of channel lock pliers.
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Oct 13, 2023 02:06
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prokaryote posted:New homeowner here. I'd like to replace the drain in my bathtub with something more functional That screen looks like it's just wedged in there. I would get something hooked in through the holes and see if it lifts out.
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Oct 13, 2023 03:11
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Boner Wad posted:I had never noticed water dripping from the valve before, which is why I was concerned. I didn't know it would normally drip. It really only does it when we use hot water, so showering or washing dishes it will drip and it seems like more than a drip. Replacing it can't hurt, and if it feels abnormal then you absolutely should, but some drip over the course of a day is normal as pressure drops and rises.
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Oct 13, 2023 08:49
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PurpleXVI posted:Replacing it can't hurt, and if it feels abnormal then you absolutely should, but some drip over the course of a day is normal as pressure drops and rises. I have never seen a leaking T&P valve that wasn't either installed on a system with no expansion tank or in the process of failing. OP has an expansion tank. There is no reason a T&P valve should ever be leaking. It is absolutely not a normal thing. Is this another "in europe this is very normal"?
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Oct 13, 2023 12:59
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