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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Domino is great when you have a lot of things to make.

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Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Just Winging It posted:

I'd considered going the laying it all down on an oversized board and then fitting the board to the veneer route, except I forgot, and then I'd already made the drawers. Next time though I'll give that a go.

e. It didn't come out bad for the most part, just... slightly meh.

I've done it both ways, assembling a fully completed veneered pattern and also doing it in stages.

In this case I did it in stages because I wanted the banding to line up between drawer faces. So I fit the drawer fronts to the case. Then veneered with the burl. Then used a cutting gauge and chisel to excavate for the banding. I glued the horizontal banding first, fully across with no mitre. Once that dried I taped the vertical band in place and used a 1" wide chisel to cut through the taped in place vertical band and the horizontal band. Then a bit more excavating of the mitre off-cut and then the vertical banding could be glued in place.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
That makes an awful lot of sense, thanks. I tried something similar for my trial runs, but removing the area where the edge banding was to go proved to be... finicky and very prone to damaging the substrate if I let the glue dry, so I didn't opt for it in the actual run. Guess I'm going to file this project under "figuring out all the ways to do it wrong so I can eventually do it right".

Toast
Dec 7, 2002

GoonsWithSpoons.com :chef:Generalissimo:chef:

Stultus Maximus posted:

When I got my saw, I bought a dolly at the same time, plus got friends with a pickup truck to help me get it down my 1904 basement stairs.

Yeah I got it on the dolly, my dad and an older neighbour helped me get it the 6 steps up into the house but didn't want to rely on them to keep it from riding down into me on the steeper basement ones. :)

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Toast posted:

Yeah I got it on the dolly, my dad and an older neighbour helped me get it the 6 steps up into the house but didn't want to rely on them to keep it from riding down into me on the steeper basement ones. :)

If it’s a straight shot, you could use some bracing on the door frame as an anchor, a DIY sled, and a rope lowering descent system. :chord:

After getting the hand planes all sharpened up, I wanted to find them a slightly better home. I have a bunch of crap thrown under the bench so decided that was a good enough spot to get them off the wall.
Put some scraps together to clean up the pile at the same time.


Some heavy green felt thrown down


The built-in entertainment thing is almost done too.


The lower drawer

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

See, that's a nice way to store those planes, but I never get around to doing any kind of reasonable solution for storing my planes because I keep aquiring more planes and I don't want to make a rack for the ones I've got that instantly becomes insufficient. I guess what I need is some kind of expandable/reconfigurable plane storage.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

See, that's a nice way to store those planes,

:unsmith:


My wife said there were a couple fruit stands sitting out with “to a good home” taped to them.

Well, I’m not that good home.


But I do recognize a free supply of maple lumber when given the opportunity. The chipboard top was garbage and a lot of the side pieces were glued and nailed and not worth saving.


Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I'm making a crossfit plyo box for a client

And I have no idea what kind of finish to put on it. I think I don't want anything that would leave a film on top, since people are going to be jumping on it and such.

Should I just rub it down with mineral oil and call it good?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Leperflesh posted:

See, that's a nice way to store those planes, but I never get around to doing any kind of reasonable solution for storing my planes because I keep aquiring more planes and I don't want to make a rack for the ones I've got that instantly becomes insufficient. I guess what I need is some kind of expandable/reconfigurable plane storage.

My solution to that was to make a nice spot for the few I use a lot and a shelf elsewhere for the others

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sockser posted:

I'm making a crossfit plyo box for a client

And I have no idea what kind of finish to put on it. I think I don't want anything that would leave a film on top, since people are going to be jumping on it and such.

Should I just rub it down with mineral oil and call it good?
Boiled linseed oil or danish oil would be fine, or just no finish, or paint, or ask your client what they would prefer.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

or ask your client what they would prefer.

His words through the entire process has been "yeah I dunno man just go for it" so I don't think that'd be much help, lol.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
I made a talharpa! I still need to make the bow.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I think this is maybe the right thread for this question. At some point a PO put in some aluminum storm windows that attached to the outside of the frame. I made one replacement storm window that slots into the originals frame (looking at other houses in the area I think what I did is similar to what was done when they were built in the 20s) with plexiglass for a driveway-facing window, but I am making one now that faces an area of yard that I'm less concerned with breakage. Is a 26 x 16 too large for a single glazed window? Should I add grilles and do smaller pieces of glass?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The Slack Lagoon posted:

I think this is maybe the right thread for this question. At some point a PO put in some aluminum storm windows that attached to the outside of the frame. I made one replacement storm window that slots into the originals frame (looking at other houses in the area I think what I did is similar to what was done when they were built in the 20s) with plexiglass for a driveway-facing window, but I am making one now that faces an area of yard that I'm less concerned with breakage. Is a 26 x 16 too large for a single glazed window? Should I add grilles and do smaller pieces of glass?
Should be fine, my windows are 6 over 1 and the lower single pane is at least that large.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

El Spamo posted:

I made a talharpa! I still need to make the bow.



I’m a string music guy and had no idea what this was. Neato.


That insert and drawer I was working on fit fairly well where it had to go. I’m currently painting the back of the box black to hide any wires passing through the wall and up to the TV.


Also ordered up a set of these since I’ll be working on the router table a lot coming up. I like that they hold the work piece down while helping to drive it into the fence.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
I have an upcoming project building a large number of built in bookcases throughout a section of my home, so I will be breaking down and making parts from a lot of plywood. So, per the thread title, I am looking at buying a track saw (something I have been eyeing a while).

Are there any goon recommendations on brand/model?

I am a hobbyist not a pro, so it wont be a constant everyday tool. 6 1/2 will be a large enough blade for me. I am fine with corded. I would need 2 sections of track + any necessary's connectors so I can cut a full 96 inch's.

I was initially looking at the Kreg as the cost/value seems to be there, but they aren't exactly known for power tools and I have read that their system is not very well designed. I have read decent reviews of the Makita system. The Festool TS 55 looks great, but its a stretch on the cost.

Any recommendations or experiences are welcome.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

emocrat posted:

So, per the thread title, I am looking at buying a track saw (something I have been eyeing a while).

Are there any goon recommendations on brand/model?

I just got a house and wanna get back into wood working (book cases!) and I am also interested in answers to this question.

I have Makita tools/batteries, so going that way is interesting to me.

Edit: looked up a Makita saw with "AWS":
"Auto-start with Bluetooth for wireless power-on..."
Noooooo, why?!
"with the dust extractor."
Oh.

Uthor fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Oct 4, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


emocrat posted:

I have an upcoming project building a large number of built in bookcases throughout a section of my home, so I will be breaking down and making parts from a lot of plywood. So, per the thread title, I am looking at buying a track saw (something I have been eyeing a while).

Are there any goon recommendations on brand/model?

I am a hobbyist not a pro, so it wont be a constant everyday tool. 6 1/2 will be a large enough blade for me. I am fine with corded. I would need 2 sections of track + any necessary's connectors so I can cut a full 96 inch's.

I was initially looking at the Kreg as the cost/value seems to be there, but they aren't exactly known for power tools and I have read that their system is not very well designed. I have read decent reviews of the Makita system. The Festool TS 55 looks great, but its a stretch on the cost.

Any recommendations or experiences are welcome.
I have a Festool track saw and it is indeed great, also stupidly expensive. Before I got that I had the Kreg one that attaches to the sole of any circ saw and it was fine? It was a pain having to take the attachment off my circ saw any time I needed it for non-track saw stuff, and despite the claims about not needing clamps, I would definitely recommend clamps. The huge advantage of the Festool one is that the clamps fit into a groove on the underside of the track so they are out of the way. It looks like the Makita has a similar setup which is good.

Honestly a basic jig like this:

With a dovetail routed in the bottom to hold some of these microjig dovetail clamps would get get you 95% of what a track saw does for like $50 and you'd have some handy dovetail clamps.


If you are building alot of cabinets/built-ins, a table saw will be hugely helpful to make repeatable rip cuts. Track saws are great for breaking down plywood, but they are slow and not super accurate if you need to rip 10 pieces 12" wide for case sides or w/e.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I have the Wen track saw, and for the money it's not horrible, just throw away the stock blade. If you're near Northern Virginia you can have it. I bought the powertec tracks to go with it and they're fantastic, and fully compatible with the Festool ts55 I upgraded to.

Working outside is nice.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
Powertec stuff looks nice. I am curios about the parallel jig you have there. Worth it?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I've got a Menards brand track saw that came with 2 foot track sections. I'd bet it's just a rebrand of the Wen, but where can I find pictures of the various tracks in profile? I'd like to buy a longer track but I'm not sure what my saw would be compatible with.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I have debated a plunge track saw vs cabinet saw for the next big shop tool. I have a functional table saw and no plunge saw, so was leaning towards those.

Local farmer had some under $1/bdft walnut, so I said give me the whole stack.


I have entirely too much wood inventory to not be making stuff for the house. I’ve 30+ boards of walnut, all that maple I just demo’d, three 1890 chestnut boards, bunch of ash, and some random old oak pieces. Still have two five foot chunks of that laminated oak from my bench build too.

Jesus Christ.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You're just me, but with a lot more storage space. This is how it goes. You understand what wood costs, you spot bargains, you have to buy it, and you will keep doing so as long as you have any possible place you can stash the stuff. Yes, you'll need to find more projects to do with it, but that won't actually help because the instant you clear some wood out of your storage you'll find some new wood to store there.

Just try to accept it. Or try to get your family to accept it, anyway. This is how you live now.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

emocrat posted:

Powertec stuff looks nice. I am curios about the parallel jig you have there. Worth it?

I got the woodpeckers parallel guide second hand, and for what I paid I'm happy enough with it. It breaks down for storage in a systainer which is handy. Biggest complaint is that the stop blocks can drift if your too rough aligning the the edge to your stock.

If I were buying new I'd probably go with the TSO.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

You're just me, but with a lot more storage space. This is how it goes. You understand what wood costs, you spot bargains, you have to buy it, and you will keep doing so as long as you have any possible place you can stash the stuff. Yes, you'll need to find more projects to do with it, but that won't actually help because the instant you clear some wood out of your storage you'll find some new wood to store there.

Just try to accept it. Or try to get your family to accept it, anyway. This is how you live now.

:negative: This is the foreseeable future. The tiny rear end Miata helps with storage and space too but the dust issue bugs the poo poo out of me. I’m limited on power out here and the shop lights are old as poo poo and eat up like a third of my available power. I need to gut the housings and remount a ton of LED stuff in place.

My daughter has been loving her desk and my wife complimented the basement TV built-in (probably because I left that hole like that for 10years?) so it was kind of like a silent blessing to get busy on what I want to do.

I just stopped by my local cabinet making place and asked if I could just order cabinet grade plywood though them. She was a little off put at first, but said I’d have to let them know the grade,etc and my heart raced. I found my source to tackle the bathroom and kitchen when I get my cabinetry skills up a bit. I’ve got a front hall closet I added to the house that has been in a hiatus phase for two years once it became functional with a hanger bar and an IKEA shoe rack.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Like I am exaggerating a little bit, but my wife and I both hoard project materials and tools. She's an artist, you see. And while her focus is ceramics, she's multimedia and expansive with it. We have robot parts. Piles of scrap aluminum. Second-hand lab glass in boxes. Slip casting molds, silk screening uh, screens, electronic components, fabric and leather and silicone moldmaking stuff. So my piles of wood (and metal and foam and wire) and woodworking tools (and welding and rock cutting and miniatures painting and model making) are just my own contribution to the hoard.

The best part is, we don't have kids, so when we're both dead it'll be my sister's kids who have to deal with all our poo poo, LMAO

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Seems like this is now the woodworkers anonymous thread.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

I still have like 200 of the 300 bf of cherry I had delivered at the start of the pandemic. I'll go through it... eventually.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sockington posted:

I have debated a plunge track saw vs cabinet saw for the next big shop tool. I have a functional table saw and no plunge saw, so was leaning towards those.

Local farmer had some under $1/bdft walnut, so I said give me the whole stack.


I have entirely too much wood inventory to not be making stuff for the house. I’ve 30+ boards of walnut, all that maple I just demo’d, three 1890 chestnut boards, bunch of ash, and some random old oak pieces. Still have two five foot chunks of that laminated oak from my bench build too.

Jesus Christ.
I recently had literally 1000bf of lumber in my shop on carts just for ongoing jobs and now it is all finally cut up and milled and starting to be assembled. The shop finally feels usable again and it feels so good. I have pretty good, out of the way lumber storage but I didn’t want to put all this in there because it was big awkward 16’ers of 8/4 oak (and it wouldn’t have all fit anyway) just to pull it back out in a week or two. I got so many random bruises from trying to navigate around a very crowded shop with heavy chunks of wood. Would not recommend.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
The great thing about wood is that as long as you keep it dry, it doesn't really go bad, and having some extra leftover after a project just means you have material for a future project. I still have a few nice & wide boards of cherry & walnut waiting for the right project that I picked up at a sizeable discount from a lumber yard that was moving premises.

Toast
Dec 7, 2002

GoonsWithSpoons.com :chef:Generalissimo:chef:
I am jealous of your woods, I was at my store the other day and the cheapest reasonable thing I could get was some #1 common hickory for like $6.50cad/BF

They did have some 8/4 Oak from trees in my neI'm probably going to go back and get though.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

yeah you don't get the good cheapo wood from "a store," generally, it's about people getting rid of wood on craigslist or disassembling found sidewalk furniture or resawing salvaged logs, poo poo like that

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

lumber stores are for when you need something very specific right now to finish a project. if you're working at scale you have a pretty good idea you'll need like 500lbf of cherry in six months and can get it from a sawmill for close to nothing; if you're a hobbyist with a huge excess of space and/or time and a pickup truck you can crawl Craigslist and snaffle up whatever comes up, figure out what to do with it later. There's never good prices on anything you have a use for tomorrow.

Leperflesh posted:

You're just me, but with a lot more storage space. This is how it goes. You understand what wood costs, you spot bargains, you have to buy it, and you will keep doing so as long as you have any possible place you can stash the stuff. Yes, you'll need to find more projects to do with it, but that won't actually help because the instant you clear some wood out of your storage you'll find some new wood to store there.

Just try to accept it. Or try to get your family to accept it, anyway. This is how you live now.

a solid majority of the bargains I find are people who do poo poo like this dying and leaving their next of kin with a warehouse full of random unlabeled exotics they can't identify and need to get rid of ASAP

circle of life, man

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Oct 4, 2023

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
What kind of health risks are there to using very old wood for indoor furniture? I found a pile of old wood in our very old (1910) house and want to use it for legs for a door desk that I'm building.



I know that arsenic were used as preservatives in wood- is there any easy way of determining this? Because we do have some pets (cats) and I definitely don't want to expose them to anything potentially harmful.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Make a zero clearance throat plate for your 1/4” dado blade.

You could also make a tilting base for the router table which is not something I use often, but is surprisingly useful when I do.

Or make a jig that holds your router on top of the stock at the appropriate angle and in the appropriate location. Something as simple as a fence and two wedges at the appropriate angle double stick taped (or screwed if you wanted to be safer) to the bottom of the router base.

I would probably just do it with a normal blade on the table saw and nudge the fence over until I got what I wanted tho. Making the stock all in one long run and then cutting it into individual pieces is easiest, or if that isn’t an option, just do the same series of cuts to each piece-run all five at setting 1, bump the fence over, run all five again etc etc.

So when I said there was probably a simpler solution to this... :doh:

I used my 1/4" dado blade, BUT... I used my 6" wide original stock and cut parallel grooves and then cut each one to width on the bandsaw.

Anyway, it's nothing fancy but I might as well put up pics:

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


melon cat posted:

I know that arsenic were used as preservatives in wood- is there any easy way of determining this? Because we do have some pets (cats) and I definitely don't want to expose them to anything potentially harmful.
I'm pretty sure interior wood wasn't arsenic-treated. According to my Wiki-ing, chromated copper arsenic didn't start being used to preserve wood until the 1930s.

Scrabble at Stultus' house!

Big Dick Cheney
Mar 30, 2007
What are the pros/cons of a scroll saw vs. a small bandsaw?

I can't really afford a nice 14" bandsaw, but I want to start making little toys for my kids. Think airplanes, miniature horses, dinosaurs, etc. Lots of small curves to navigate, basically. Scroll saws seem a little cheaper, but am I going down the wrong road? Trying to get something used.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Big Dick Cheney posted:

What are the pros/cons of a scroll saw vs. a small bandsaw?

I can't really afford a nice 14" bandsaw, but I want to start making little toys for my kids. Think airplanes, miniature horses, dinosaurs, etc. Lots of small curves to navigate, basically. Scroll saws seem a little cheaper, but am I going down the wrong road? Trying to get something used.

Scroll saws are wimpier, great for cutting detailed shapes and sharp curves on stock ≤¼" (and you can thread the blades through a hole, which is a big bonus) but quickly get out of their league on anything heavier. The little benchtop bandsaws are universally trash, if that's what you've got space for get a nice scrollsaw and a bunch of thin stock or 1/8" plywood and it'll do exactly what you're looking for


melon cat posted:

What kind of health risks are there to using very old wood for indoor furniture? I found a pile of old wood in our very old (1910) house and want to use it for legs for a door desk that I'm building.



I know that arsenic were used as preservatives in wood- is there any easy way of determining this? Because we do have some pets (cats) and I definitely don't want to expose them to anything potentially harmful.

Negligible if it's not bright green or something. Those pieces you photographer are not pressure treated, just avoid sanding or otherwise aerosolizing any paint that might be on the rest

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Scroll saws are wimpier, great for cutting detailed shapes and sharp curves on stock ≤¼" (and you can thread the blades through a hole, which is a big bonus) but quickly get out of their league on anything heavier. The little benchtop bandsaws are universally trash, if that's what you've got space for get a nice scrollsaw and a bunch of thin stock or 1/8" plywood and it'll do exactly what you're looking for

You can comfortably cut stock a lot thicker than 1/4" on a scroll saw. Mine is more than 30 years old and I regularly use it on 3/4" hardwoods, including super dense exotics. I wouldn't go much past 2", though.

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Big Dick Cheney
Mar 30, 2007
Thanks. I have a planer! Scroll saw sounds like the way to go.

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