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His Divine Shadow posted:Why do I keep finding sockets on bolts in my cars engine compartment? I found a 12mm socket sitting pretty securely on a bolt near the bottom of the radiator. Occam’s Razor? PO or mechanic was doing maintenance, lost a socket, did not feel like or have the magnet to locate the old socket, and decided to buy a new one instead.
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Oct 4, 2023 14:30
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His Divine Shadow posted:Why do I keep finding sockets on bolts in my cars engine compartment? I found a 12mm socket sitting pretty securely on a bolt near the bottom of the radiator. Could be the PO. Could be you or some mechanic too. I think we’ve all found a missing socket or two from wrenching misadventures though, so don’t worry too much. Edit: Beaten again.
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Oct 4, 2023 14:30
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Not lost, staged.
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Oct 4, 2023 14:36
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I’ve got a very minor leak of ATF on my 1977 Lincoln Mark V (460 w C6 transmission) and I’m thinking rear main seal. For folks that have owned/worked on this transmission (probably a lot of you, honestly. It was in everything for a while) is this something I could do at home with jack stands, or should I bring it to a shop? I know I’ve gotta drop the trans to change the seal. If it’s shop work, any idea how much I should budget for? Might as well start saving now.
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Oct 4, 2023 15:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:Why do I keep finding sockets on bolts in my cars engine compartment? I found a 12mm socket sitting pretty securely on a bolt near the bottom of the radiator. Happens to me sometimes but so far in reasonably accessible places where I can bash the socket off somehow.
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Oct 4, 2023 15:45
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most mechanics ive talked to have some stories like that, either losing tools in a client's car, or finding someone else's. you do a thing enough times and some pretty unlikely mistakes happen. my favorite was one found a socket in the oil pan
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Oct 4, 2023 15:49
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Cactus Ghost posted:most mechanics ive talked to have some stories like that, either losing tools in a client's car, or finding someone else's. you do a thing enough times and some pretty unlikely mistakes happen. my favorite was one found a socket in the oil pan It's a bit more concernign when it happens to surgeons though
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Oct 4, 2023 16:01
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Cactus Ghost posted:yeah there's no way in hell i'd put seafoam through anything with a catylitic converter or an o2 sensor unless i disconnected the cat and was ready to replace the sensor. idk if that's actually true, its just the vibe i get. billowing smoke doesn't seem good for things that need to stay hot, clean, and unclogged What's in seafoam anyway? O2 sensors these days are pretty resistant to poisoning. Though you know, ounce of prevention pound of cure and all that.
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Oct 4, 2023 16:46
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So, I just won an auction for a car on Ebay, something I've never done before. Does anyone have any advice or quick run down of how this works? The page itself seems to have helpful links about secure payment, and getting the car shipped, and I read all of that before bidding, but I'd appreciate a human's summary of how this generally goes, if anyone could help me. Here's the car: 
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Oct 4, 2023 17:05
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A month ago my wife's 2008 Acura tsx was rattling at low rpms. asked my dad (former mechanic) to check it out, he swapped out a spark plug and ignition coils - something i did 2 years back for all coils and plugs. problem went away except now the air conditioner flat out does not blow cold air...it just blows outside temperature air. it was working fine prior to the swap. the a/c clutch is spinning and there is charge in the system. checked the smaller fuses and none appear blown. any ideas why putting in new coils/plugs would gently caress up the a/c? my wife is now suv shopping because i wont shut up about how much i hate the piece of poo poo tsx lol
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Oct 4, 2023 17:23
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Ammanas posted:A month ago my wife's 2008 Acura tsx was rattling at low rpms. asked my dad (former mechanic) to check it out, he swapped out a spark plug and ignition coils - something i did 2 years back for all coils and plugs. Could be a blend door failure. It’s probably just stuck open on vent rather than switching properly.
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Oct 4, 2023 20:29
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2002 Ford Ranger, 3.0L V6 engine, manual transmission, 2WD. Possibly relevant background: I'd been noticing a slow coolant leak, just a drip, for a while but hadn't made it a priority because it only needed to be topped up every few months or so. In August I had a local shop replace the clutch - master and slave cylinder and clutch plate. A few days ago I took a left turn out of a parking lot a little too sharply and nudged the curb - not "climbed and bounced", just bumped into. About half a block later I started hearing a fast regular chirping sound from the engine that sped up and slowed down with the RPM. When I pulled into the garage I popped the hood and saw that coolant was dripping down from basically all over the underside of the engine, and there was an odor that I couldn't identify but I assume was hot coolant. I threw a bucketful of cat litter under to absorb the mess but didn't have time to look at it until today. It runs but I just backed it out into the driveway then back in on ramps. I took a few pictures of what I saw but I don't know how well they show things that I could see. First thing I noticed:  The engine fan seems displaced. It's out of alignment with the radiator shroud and the top of the fan extends further back than the bottom, if you see what I mean.   And the fan is now hitting the air intake hose, which is probably the source of the chirping sound I was hearing. I'll be replacing the hose. From underneath:  I tried to take a picture from a position where the pulley is edge-on, showing that the belt seems to come off it at an angle. I don't think it's supposed to do that. There was dried coolant all over the bottom of everything, which is to be expected, but I didn't see any cracks or noticeable catastrophic indicators - but then, I don't exactly know what I'd be looking for. The dipstick doesn't show any milkiness in the oil, which would indicate that coolant hasn't gotten into the engine block itself (right?). My thoughts so far: something caused a massive coolant leak and the radiator fan axle to come out of alignment. Did my water pump just spontaneously explode? I looked at videos showing how to replace one and I think I could do that if it's the only thing that's screwed up, but how do I tell? How do I diagnose this for sure? What else might it be? I really can't afford a new car payment for now (or for a while) and I'm going to need reliable transportation. If it's salvageable I plan to replace the air intake hose, the fan, probably the water pump, likely the serpentine belt, and I may install an electric fan while I'm at it if that's not too much of a pain in the rear end. It'd give me a little more room to work in the future. I'd greatly appreciate help from anyone who has any ideas what the hell happened and how to fix it.
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Oct 4, 2023 22:47
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Any recommendations for a cheap compact 12V compressor? I was about to pick one up from Canadian Tire today but a lot of the reviews were like "worked three or four times and then blew a fuse" kind of stuff.
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Oct 5, 2023 00:38
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Lemniscate Blue posted:2002 Ford Ranger, 3.0L V6 engine, manual transmission, 2WD. You're on the right track, but I think basically your fan clutch failed to the point that it can't keep the fan on axis or coolant where it should be. The bump probably jarred it enough to let go entirely. They sell combination fan clutch and water pumps, and it's almost definitely going to be the most economical way to repair the issue. You probably are going to be on the hook for the other parts you listed too. You might be able to keep the fan, but only if the all the blades are still intact. There are replacement options out there. Not sure how familiar you are with the auto parts world, but https://www.rockauto.com is definitely worth checking out for a lot of these parts, but you'll have to visit a salvage yard for the air intake hose most likely. Local stores would be good for the odd fastener and coolant you'll inevitably need. In the meantime, I'd start checking out YouTube for good repair videos. I think this one might be a good start for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvpr3GI_iGk Mak0rz posted:Any recommendations for a cheap compact 12V compressor? I was about to pick one up from Canadian Tire today but a lot of the reviews were like "worked three or four times and then blew a fuse" kind of stuff. Viair probably has something right up your alley. The linked one isn't bad, but you can get one that hooks right up to your battery if you need it.
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Oct 5, 2023 00:52
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Jack B Nimble posted:So, I just won an auction for a car on Ebay, something I've never done before. Does anyone have any advice or quick run down of how this works? The page itself seems to have helpful links about secure payment, and getting the car shipped, and I read all of that before bidding, but I'd appreciate a human's summary of how this generally goes, if anyone could help me. congratulations on the retirement my first advice is to reach out to the seller and start talking to them over the phone, if you haven’t done so already is the car out of state? will you be shipping it? do you have a company in mind/were you planning to do it yourself? If you’re gonna drive it back you’ll need to figure out a temporary plates/etc situation for your state. I had to transport my E36 from Boston to SW Connecticut (150 miles) last year and by far the cheapest and best way was to upgrade my AAA membership to the highest tier and take advantage of their 200 mile towing. Gave the flatbed driver a nice tip, so much better than dealing with a UHaul and a trailer by myself.
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Oct 5, 2023 01:29
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Lemniscate Blue posted:2002 Ford Ranger, 3.0L V6 engine, manual transmission, 2WD.. Your wster pump has failed. Probably leaking coolant out at the weep hole under the fan shaft. The bearing’s also gone, which is another reason your fan is cock-eyed. So your plan is good.
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Oct 5, 2023 03:08
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PainterofCrap posted:AI Stupid Question Thread: out at the weep hole
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Oct 5, 2023 03:11
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Could be a blend door failure. It’s probably just stuck open on vent rather than switching properly. I thought it may be that but attempting to take the drivers side blend door control out was a nasty pain in the rear end and it looks like ill need to remove a lot of the dash paneling (and maybe the seat too so I don't hurt my back again). bummer.
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Oct 5, 2023 03:36
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nitsuga posted:You're on the right track, but I think basically your fan clutch failed to the point that it can't keep the fan on axis or coolant where it should be. The bump probably jarred it enough to let go entirely. They sell combination fan clutch and water pumps, and it's almost definitely going to be the most economical way to repair the issue. You probably are going to be on the hook for the other parts you listed too. You might be able to keep the fan, but only if the all the blades are still intact. There are replacement options out there. PainterofCrap posted:Your wster pump has failed. Probably leaking coolant out at the weep hole under the fan shaft. The bearing’s also gone, which is another reason your fan is cock-eyed. So your plan is good. Thanks very much to both of you. I think this is doable, which is a big load off my mind.
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Oct 5, 2023 04:22
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nitsuga posted:Viair probably has something right up your alley. The linked one isn't bad, but you can get one that hooks right up to your battery if you need it. Just the lighter hole plug should do it for my needs. Thanks for the link!
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Oct 5, 2023 05:25
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I’ve got a very minor leak of ATF on my 1977 Lincoln Mark V (460 w C6 transmission) and I’m thinking rear main seal. For folks that have owned/worked on this transmission (probably a lot of you, honestly. It was in everything for a while) is this something I could do at home with jack stands, or should I bring it to a shop? I know I’ve gotta drop the trans to change the seal. On a C6 I accept a certain amount of leakage lol. But in any case the rear main seal would weep oil from the motor, not ATF from the trans. Or did you mean the rear transmission seal to the propshaft? In either case, if you haven't done this before you're really want to make sure you have the right tools. If it's the propshaft seal then that's pretty easy with a seal puller once you drop the propshaft, but you'll probably want to do new u-joints while you're at it and THAT might take a bit if you don't have a press. If it's actually the motor main seal, you'll need a transmission jack and I absolutely recommend a lift for that job.
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Oct 5, 2023 16:18
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Mr. Wiggles posted:On a C6 I accept a certain amount of leakage lol. But in any case the rear main seal would weep oil from the motor, not ATF from the trans. Or did you mean the rear transmission seal to the propshaft? Yeah, I was mistaken. I keep thinking of the “rear” meaning front of the trans. It’s a small leak where the bell housing mates with the engine. It does look like it’s a job for the shop until I get a table lift though. Might as well have em change the torque converter seals while they’re in there too. I already did the dipstick tube o ring.
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Oct 5, 2023 16:29
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Due to some hosed up road geometry our golf 8 gte can't get over a raise in the ground from our kerb/gate. I'm going to talk to the council to see if they'll fix the dip in the road outside, but it only needs a centimeter or so additional clearance. Are cars suspension adjustable for small amounts like that?
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Oct 5, 2023 19:46
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You generally won't find intentional height adjustability in general production vehicles outside of vehicles with air suspension. Occasionally a special performance package might have adjustable coilovers but it's rare. If you just need a bit of extra height you can usually get away with taller tires. My Fiesta is approximately a half inch taller than normal because Michelin doesn't make the Pilot Sport 4S any smaller than 215/45R17 so the tires are slightly over an inch taller than stock.
wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Oct 5, 2023 |
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Oct 5, 2023 20:06
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wolrah posted:You generally won't find intentional height adjustability in general production vehicles outside of vehicles with air suspension. Occasionally a special performance package might have adjustable coilovers but it's rare.  new asphalt it is then
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Oct 5, 2023 20:08
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Oct 5, 2023 20:30
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distortion park posted:Due to some hosed up road geometry our golf 8 gte can't get over a raise in the ground from our kerb/gate. I'm going to talk to the council to see if they'll fix the dip in the road outside, but it only needs a centimeter or so additional clearance. Are cars suspension adjustable for small amounts like that? Is it your driveway specifically? Is it a dip where you could place something like https://www.vevor.com/curb-ramp-c_10411/car-driveway-curb-ramp-rubber-industrial-level-heavy-duty-garage-loading-dock-p_010347390022 ? Some of the houses near my parents place have these as there's a dip between the road and the driveway to funnel water.
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Oct 5, 2023 21:40
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My neighbor around the corner has a pair of those from costco and seems to really like them Some cut up 2x4 or whatever the metric equivalent is ought to work in the short term, slightly less permanent than bags of concrete
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Oct 5, 2023 21:54
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fiesta st ecoboom is running a bit rough, check engine light is on but not flashing, pulls code P219A(00)- fuel/air mixture out of range in bank 1 any thoughts? Ford forums *spits* say anything from bad hose to bad valve It’s got a date at a shop I like (they rebuilt my E36’s DME and a few other big jobs, they’ve done a bunch of other good work on my family’s VW and Audi, they see domestics and a lot of recent Volvos which IIRC share a motor architecture so I’m confident they’ll be at least as good as my Ford dealer, and there’s always a bunch of clean 944s parked out front, but they’re always booked weeks out) on Tues and for now I’m not driving it at all. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 7, 2023 |
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Oct 7, 2023 05:41
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Ok Comboomer posted:fiesta st ecoboom is running a bit rough, check engine light is on but not flashing, pulls code P219A(00)- fuel/air mixture out of range in bank 1 My first thought is to clean the MAF/MAP sensor and throttle body.
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Oct 7, 2023 05:48
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Alarbus posted:Is it your driveway specifically? Is it a dip where you could place something like https://www.vevor.com/curb-ramp-c_10411/car-driveway-curb-ramp-rubber-industrial-level-heavy-duty-garage-loading-dock-p_010347390022 ? Some of the houses near my parents place have these as there's a dip between the road and the driveway to funnel water. It is, and that looks perfect thanks
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Oct 7, 2023 09:18
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I hope this is a kosher type question. I'm talking to a dealer about a 2022 Kia Niro hybrid with 19k miles. I have a sticking point on price, and if they meet me where I want, I'll get a decent deal. I'll walk otherwise. We'll see how much they want to move the car. My question isn't about any of the buying process, financing, or anything like that. Are there any known issues with this particular year model? It doesn't have the easy to steal ignition since it's push button. Most reviews I've read are solid and it seems like a pretty decent car. I didn't see any place to ask this particular type of question. On the more technical side, my gf's got a 2016 mazda CX-5 that has a vin and brake calipers that fall under techpub r052/16c. Her car is within the vin range and has calipers with dates prior to the corrected ones. I'm not going to do this myself and will be taking it to the shop next week. I'm just curious if anyone has dealt with this particular issue. Seems like a pretty straight forward replacement of brake calipers.
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Oct 8, 2023 01:40
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Got a  bogan question - a followup from my post a couple months back.I've just thrown some cash at my 2001 Holden VU "S" ute (LS1 4AT) and replaced, well, shitloads - but it looks like there's a problem with the ABS pump/modulator and it needs to be replaced (the specific problem is that one of the valve solenoids in the pump/modulator has failed). Problem is that these stopped getting made at some point years ago and new stock has pretty much dried up. The two obvious solutions are to either get one from a wrecker or to just suck it up, ignore the ABS light and move on with my life but I'm a pedantic type and I want the ABS working. Any suggestions on how to source a good module? I live in the US (the ute's with Mum in Sydney) so I have access to parts within either of those countries if there happens to be interchangeability with cars sold in other markets... Bosch PN: 0273004219 Holden PN: 92050934
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Oct 8, 2023 21:10
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EBay OZ has a number of them vvv nah; they were all used. Tried searching by part number; hard to believe that your module is specific to Holden alone. vvv PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Oct 9, 2023 |
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Oct 8, 2023 22:15
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I saw a shitload of used units but not new ones which is what I'd prefer. Also saw a refurber selling refurbed control units (i.e. not the pump/hydraulic modulator which is the part I need). Trying to get something in as close to "new" condition (rather than traditional "commodore smashed into a telegraph pole" condition) as possible. Unless you saw something else? I guess I'm hoping there's some secret bogan knowledge of where to get the "good" units (i.e. the best condition used ones) rather than just rolling the dice on a random eBay unit if I absolutely can't get a new or quality refurbished one. e: clarification & a parts diagram 
sarcastx fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Oct 8, 2023 |
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Oct 8, 2023 22:39
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You might be stuck going for refurb stuff, though this comment is certainly too early to tell.
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Oct 9, 2023 01:43
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If you cant get new via Repco (usually the best automotoive store for OEM parts, Supercheap does not carry items like that) or a ex-Holden dealer (some are now MG Motors, a couple remained GM but in general my guess is that a bunch of dealerships got rid of their spares when Holden disappeared) then eBay reconditioned is the only real choice. Rare Spares may be worth a shot too I've put the question out to a few mates who do spare parts to see if they can help
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Oct 9, 2023 08:16
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Apparently there's a product called windshield protection film nowadays you can buy. Is it of any use or completely bunk? I would really like to get some protection for new windshields on two of my cars. I am not talking about protecting from impacts like a flying rock but the general, low level abrasion that happens from regular driving, at last where I live, particularly during winter. I'm super careful about having enough wiper fluid and replacing the wipers yearly even if they look fine but it has not been enough.
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Oct 9, 2023 11:51
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I have a very hard time believing that the visual quality through a windscreen protector would be worthwhile. They have these for racecars (different but same idea) and they pick up a lot of little marks that glass wouldn't, because they're a plastic film.
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Oct 9, 2023 12:03
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the glass is already abrasion protection for the layer of plastic underneath it
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Oct 9, 2023 12:24
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