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In central Europe I'm putting together a new system for my father, who had his PC die on him. It's just for media consumption and some very mild gaming: CPU - Intel Core i3-12100F boxed 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor intel has the edge on budget CPUs Motherboard - MSI PRO B760M-E DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard one of the cheaper LGA1700 motherboards, not made by Biostar, who are to be avoided Memory - TEAMGROUP Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL22 Memory DDR4 memory as that saves about 60-70 Euro when also taking the motherboard into account Storage - KIOXIA EXCERIA G2 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive cheapest m.2 drive with d-ram cache and 5 year warranty I could find at that size Video Card - Asus STRIX-GTX970-DC2-4GD5 GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card an old GPU he already has Case - be quiet! Pure Base 500 ATX Mid Tower Case a budget case from a well known brand Power Supply - SeaSonic G12 GM 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply cheapest PSU I could find that's semi-modular, has a 5 year warranty and is from a brand I've heard from Italics are my reasons for selecting the part in question. The main thing I'm unsure of is if going with DDR4 is the right call or if it's worth upgrading to DDR5 at that price point/use case. The system as it is comes in at 480 or so Euro with a budget in the 500 area.
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 14:03 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 06:12 |
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Daft question time again. If my new parts boot to bios, all the fans are spinning, the hard drives are detected and the monitor output is coming from my GPU rather than the onboard graphics then all is good physically with my build? The bios isn't identifying my old data SDD with windows on it as a bootable device (it's picking up the drive itself though). So I've not been able to go all the way into Windows setup yet to make sure everything's good. Could there be problems with the CPU or something else and you'd still be able to get into the bios? Also, have PC audio standards changed in the last decade? My speaker setup has front and rear speakers and a subwoofer/central speaker, etc. My old motherboard had ports for those, but the new one only has audio in/out/microphones.
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 14:34 |
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Kin posted:Daft question time again. It's possible to have a working but unstable system such that it works as you describe but will randomly crap itself later, but that's rare out of the box if you aren't futzing with overclocking/undervolting/etc. This will usually manifest as random BSODs or restarts so if you are that particular flavor of unlucky it's hard to miss. But generally if you get to this point you're good. That said 99% of the time such issues will be faulty RAM, bad CPUs are extremely rare (I say, having actually had to RMA a CPU once, but nobody I talked to had ever heard of doing such a thing). Is the BIOS detecting the SSD at all? If it sees it but won't boot from it, then that's probably secure boot not working with your old install. If it doesn't see it at all, is it a SATA m.2 drive (assuming you know)? Some boards don't support SATA m.2 drives in every slot. If it's a 2.5" SATA drive, try different SATA ports on the board, sometimes they share lanes with other slots on the board and may be "losing" to another card/drive. Some board still have the surround outputs but it seems less common than it used to be. File it under "not many people used it so it got removed to save 10 cents on the bill of materials".
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 14:45 |
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Kin posted:Daft question time again. Try looking into CSM for the drive. Some mobos come with surround sound or you can get a sound card. I have surroundsound for my living room gaming set up, and another way to do it is to have a receiver and then send the data to the receiver via optical / hdmi. Windows and my receiver both support dolby atmos
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 14:56 |
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power crystals posted:It's possible to have a working but unstable system such that it works as you describe but will randomly crap itself later, but that's rare out of the box if you aren't futzing with overclocking/undervolting/etc. This will usually manifest as random BSODs or restarts so if you are that particular flavor of unlucky it's hard to miss. But generally if you get to this point you're good. That said 99% of the time such issues will be faulty RAM, bad CPUs are extremely rare (I say, having actually had to RMA a CPU once, but nobody I talked to had ever heard of doing such a thing). Awesome, cheers for the reassurance. The bios is picking up the SSD yeah, it's a regular SATA 2.5" one and is hooked up to the "1st" SATA port. I've not tried it in different SATA ports yet (might go do that now), but i tried with my other two SATA 2.5" drives (storage only) connected in addition to the new m.2 drive i got. No bootable devices were found on any of them. I'll try the SATA port swap and see what happens, but failing that I've just got myself a Windows 11 key and I'll likely follow the advice of the guys in the Windows thread and just do a clean install of Windows 11 onto the new m.2 drive (assuming it picks up a bootable drive in the USB slot).
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:00 |
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Kin posted:Awesome, cheers for the reassurance. If it sees the drive swapping the port won't do anything. That's probably the install on the drive being from an old enough system it isn't set up to support secure boot. I'd echo the just do a new install thing. It's probably easier in the long run. The m.2 drive should also be decently faster when used as a boot drive.
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:21 |
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Cool, thanks again. The only reason I was looking to use the old SSD was for OS compartmentalisation reasons. Though it got me thinking that if I just use the m2 for widows and games (it's 2TB), then there's actually still minimal risk in having to reformat windows, etc. Yeah, it'll be a ballache to redownload stuff but my connection's fast enough that it can get a 100GB game in an hour or so.
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:29 |
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Incessant Excess posted:In central Europe I'm putting together a new system for my father, who had his PC die on him. It's just for media consumption and some very mild gaming: If it were me, I think I'd either pay the $20 premium to get a i3-12100 with the iGPU or do an AMD 5600G with very slightly slower single threaded speed but 6 cores over 4. All this depends on local pricing though, at a glance they're all within a $30 range and I understand if you're pinching pennies the 12100F can't be beat. Having an iGPU lets a computer live a second, post-retirement life as a home server, kids' PC, HTPC or something. I've got 4 desktops in regular usage in my household and only 1 has a dGPU. A GTX 970 is getting pretty elderly and there's a chance it suffers some sort of hardware failure over the next few years, even just a fan.
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:38 |
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Josh Lyman posted:Your friend’s talking out of his rear end with respect to golf clubs. No single golf club costs “a few grand”. That’s the cost of a brand new full set of clubs. maybe he meant actual golf club memberships
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:51 |
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Twerk from Home posted:If it were me, I think I'd either pay the $20 premium to get a i3-12100 with the iGPU or do an AMD 5600G with very slightly slower single threaded speed but 6 cores over 4. All this depends on local pricing though, at a glance they're all within a $30 range and I understand if you're pinching pennies the 12100F can't be beat. I came here to write this. I have no objections to that build beyond going iGPU-less
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# ? Oct 9, 2023 15:54 |
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CaPensiPraxis posted:[Intro] PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($0.00) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Pro RS ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($0.00) Memory: OLOy MD4U083216BJDA 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Western Digital Green SN350 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($44.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($309.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.98 @ Newegg) Custom: Bundle ($280.00) Total: $749.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-09 15:50 EDT-0400 I read the poster mentioning bundled deals on newegg and started a new build with a bundle that had the same CPU in the suggested builds. The deals aren't quite as steep as for more expensive setups, but it's not nothing. However, it raised a compatibility issue with the power supply - from reading the thread and my prior experience with computers of all kind it's a common point of failure/issues, with warranty (and the presumed guarantee of quality) being a key issue. The part from the build I'm cribbing from is "Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply" and the warning is that the motherboard (From the bundle) has an addditional 4-pin ATX connector that this power supply doesn't supply: "This connector is used to supply additional current. While the system will likely still run without it, higher current demands or extreme overclocking may require it." It does also say that it "will run" with it, but under some conditions may cause issues. Should I be really seriously worried about this, if so: any advice on what to look for? CaPensiPraxis fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Oct 9, 2023 |
# ? Oct 9, 2023 20:55 |
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I got some DDR5 6000 RAM for my new 7800x3d build but the RAM doesn't seem stable. It did pass memtest but then threw a few bsod until I put it back to 4800. It's a Samsung die which I've now read may not be the best fit for AM5 chips. Frustratingly, the RAM I got is on the QVL list for the board (X670e STEEL LEGEND) Any recommendation for a Hynix 2x16 kit that's fairly low profile, and no RGB?
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 05:41 |
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I got some DDR5 6000 RAM for my new 7800x3d build but the RAM doesn't seem stable. It did pass memtest but then threw a few bsod until I put it back to 4800. It's a Samsung die which I've now read may not be the best fit for AM5 chips. Frustratingly, the RAM I got is on the QVL list for the board (X670e STEEL LEGEND) Any recommendation for a Hynix 2x16 kit that's fairly low profile, and no RGB? That's unlucky. Maybe grab these guys: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb/p/N82E16820374418 That's the kit I use. It's hynix, and it even works fine with a custom profile with tightened timings. You could try to get your Samsung kit working by tweaking the voltages, but I'd just return them and get the kit I linked instead.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 07:51 |
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So, the cpu cooler I got comes with two independent fans and a Y cable to hook up their power cables to a single CPU fan slot on the motherboard. This is how I've got it hooked up now, but spotted that my motherboard actually has two slots for CPU fans. Is there any benefit to changing the setup and popping the fans into the 2 different motherboard slots? I saw in my bios that there was only one cpu fan detected and saw its stats, etc but that's the only thing I've come across so far.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 08:58 |
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Kin posted:So, the cpu cooler I got comes with two independent fans and a Y cable to hook up their power cables to a single CPU fan slot on the motherboard. You can view and control the fan speed independently, that is all. It's not worth the hassle in my opinion. I personally have seven fans and more than seven headers, but I use splitters to have three zones because it's less fan curves to manage.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 09:13 |
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Kin posted:I saw in my bios that there was only one cpu fan detected and saw its stats, etc but that's the only thing I've come across so far. Motherboards have no way of knowing how many fans you have daisy chained to each header. The only reason to split them is if you wanted to control each fan's speed independently of the other, which you shouldn't want, assuming they're the same brand and RPM. Generally I have one or two CPU fans on that header, my intake fans daisy chained to another, and exhaust on a different one.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 09:13 |
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Sweet, thanks for the info. It would have been a bit of a faff to get the cable from one of the fans to the second slot anyway, so glad i don't have to do that. Other than that, the recommended system from here seems to run as smooth as butter and super quiet. I've not really tried playing games or anything on it yet though as I'm still configuring Windows and dealing with the quirks involved in that (like making sure all the drivers are updated and whatever). One thing I noticed, which was weird, was that I was getting my full 1 Gigabit connection speed on Steam with the new rig. On my last machine, I could get that speed using speedtest.net, but Steam seemed to cap the download at 30MBs instead of the 100MBs+ it can get up to. I need to do a bit more testing on that today, but I dunno if it's possibly the new hardware (steam can write faster to NVMe vs SSD?), Windows 11 or some funky thing with my router and the DNS and it being a new machine on the network. If it's a permanent fix, happy days. Downloading these 100GB games in 15 minutes rather than an hour would be lovely.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 09:34 |
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Kin posted:One thing I noticed, which was weird, was that I was getting my full 1 Gigabit connection speed on Steam with the new rig. Steam downloads are usually compressed so you can end up CPU bottlenecked. Check out task manager while you're blasting a download at 100MB/s+, it'll be a solid CPU load.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 09:44 |
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Aha, I could never find a clear answer to it online. But it was clearly being throttled somewhere because it was a solid 31MB/s at any time of the day. Another silly question, but is there any drawback to a motherboard's leds being on all the time other than it being annoying? Power consumption/burning out, etc? I tried switching them off in the bios but it doesn't seem to have done anything and they're always on, even when the computer is shut down. The only way to turn them off is by flicking the i/o switch. The computer lives inside an enclosure in its own room, so they won't be visible until I open the enclosure to use it anyway. I'm just not a fan of it all being lit up while it's in there not being used Edit: actually, never mind. Turns out if you change the settings in advanced mode, they get overwritten by the settings that were last in place in easy mode for the bios. There was a separate easy mode toggle which kept the lights on... Kin fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Oct 10, 2023 |
# ? Oct 10, 2023 10:21 |
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So I saw this on Memory Express and I'm wondering if it's a terrible idea in the sense of EVGA being 'out of the gpu market' now. Keep in mind this is CAD not USD. https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00116013 It would serve as a decent 12 gb GPU in my system at a very similar performance to cost value vs the 4060 and 4070, just aimed at 60 fps and 1080p for the time being. I might get a fancier monitor on boxing day or something like that and the things I've seen seem to say it'd be okay with a 12700k for 60 fps at 1440p or 120 fps at 1080p, or both with just somewhat 'non maximum' settings. Theoretically a while down the line I could get a different gpu if it really feels lacking in a couple of years, but given that I'm currently on a 1060 6gb it's supposedly twice as powerful anyways. What happens if the GPU needs warranty service within the three years? Has anyone had to work with EVGA warranty recently at all?
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 10:55 |
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iLonie posted:What country are you in? UK Spotted some decent discounts on Amazon today so I'm tempted to commit to this. It passed without comment previously, so I'm assuming no major issues? I've swapped the CPU since the higher model is on discount, added in a new case, and replaced the CPU cooler with what I think is the dual tower one I keep seeing recommended? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-13700KF 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor (£369.17 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (£47.36 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (£260.39 @ Newegg UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory (£95.55 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£114.99 @ Currys PC World) Video Card: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card (Purchased For £0.00) Case: NZXT H7 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case (£105.99 @ AWD-IT) Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£104.99 @ AWD-IT) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit (Purchased For £0.00) Monitor: ViewSonic ELITE XG270QG 27.0" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor (Purchased For £0.00) Keyboard: SteelSeries Apex M750 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For £0.00) Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 650 Wireless Wireless Optical Mouse (Purchased For £0.00) Total: £1098.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-10 12:21 BST+0100 Also can anyone give be a breakdown of pros/cons between the gigabyte mobo above and the NZXT N7 Z790? Thanks for any help!
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 12:22 |
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iLonie posted:Spotted some decent discounts on Amazon today so I'm tempted to commit to this. It passed without comment previously, so I'm assuming no major issues? I've swapped the CPU since the higher model is on discount, added in a new case, and replaced the CPU cooler with what I think is the dual tower one I keep seeing recommended? I don't see anything wrong with this list. I would've commented on the cooler if you hadn't swapped it out (i missed your first post), but thankfully you did. The biggest difference between motherboards these days is typically going to be the I/O supported. Some motherboards may have more USB slots but fewer PCIe slots, some may have different PCIe slot positions, different number of m.2 slots, etc. These are usually straightforward to understand, and my advice is typically to just look for what you need and try not to overspend on features you don't think you'll need. The only other features that may be worth considering are the audio chip used, the type of networking chips used (mediatek's wifi has been getting on my nerves lately, for one), and misc stuff like 7-segment displays for error codes. And then there's aesthetics, which for some people will be completely meaningless, and others will want their internals to look nice through the glass side panel. In this case, we can see the Aorus Elite AX has four more USB-A ports on the rear I/O than the NZXT N7, but it has three fewer 3.5mm audio ports (though those typically go unused in most people's setups). The NZXT has a clear CMOS button on the rear I/O too, but you can do this on the Gigabyte board easily enough by shorting a couple pins. They both have the same audio codec (Realtek ALC1220, it's fine). The Aorus Elite AX has one additional M.2 slot over the N7. Using that fourth m.2 slot deactivates two of the six SATA ports, but that still leaves you with four usable SATA ports on top of the four m.2 slots. The N7 has two additional PCIe slots instead: the Gigabyte board has one 5.0 x16 slot for the GPU, one 4.0 x4 slot, and one 3.0 x4 slot, while the N7 has the 5.0 x16 slot, two 4.0 x4 slots, and two 3.0 x1 slots. So if you need lots of expansion slots for some reason, then the N7 is your board. For most people though, I'd recommend the Aorus Elite AX instead unless the NZXT board is cheaper. But... the NZXT board's aesthetics will match the case's. And you can always use m.2-to-PCIe adapters if you want more storage.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 12:57 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I don't see anything wrong with this list. I would've commented on the cooler if you hadn't swapped it out (i missed your first post), but thankfully you did. Perfect, thank you very much. Ended up going N7 since the Aorus isn't in stock after all. Ordered now!
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 13:06 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:That's unlucky. Maybe grab these guys: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb/p/N82E16820374418 Thanks, I'll give this kit a try
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 16:25 |
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I currently have a Geforce 1060 6GB blower card. It's the oldest, hottest, and least capable component in my computer. I'm looking to upgrade it. My current system: CPU: Intel Core i5-12400 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($40.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B660M Pro RS Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Silicon Power XPOWER Turbine 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($29.97 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus Turbo GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Video Card ($489.00 @ Amazon) Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 550 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($98.59 @ Newegg Sellers) Monitor: Samsung CF391 27.0" 1920 x 1080 Curved Monitor
My reason for asking is that when I asked on reddit, I was told to get a $400-450 card and to upgrade my monitor to "future-proof" the system. Not interested in that at all. I'm really just looking to get a card capable of 1080p @60fps, without being overkill for that purpose. The current card is aging, hot, and noisy as hell. If i need to upgrade the PSU, please let me know what wattage to look for. Thanks! UltraShame fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Oct 10, 2023 |
# ? Oct 10, 2023 18:01 |
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Country? USA Near a MicroCenter? Not particularly Use? Gaming Budget? Under $1k Gaming specs? 1080p@60 Professional work? No A friend offered to take my decade-old haswell build off my hands but I want to figure out how much money it would take to build a modest, modern system that is at least as good as this one. I'd like to surprise them with a machine that has a little more lifetime left in it and M.2 support. The machine to beat has a i5-4670k and a GTX1070. I gotta believe today's budget builds can knock this machine on its rear end but I really don't have a great idea of where to start. This feels like a stupid question, like this is a 2014 build that was midrange at the time, I feel like I'm gonna get quoted and told to just get a NUC. E: looks like a build with an i3-13100F and a RX 6600 works, I could put this together for like $600 Dr Cheeto fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Oct 10, 2023 |
# ? Oct 10, 2023 18:37 |
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UltraShame posted:My reason for asking is that when I asked on reddit, I was told to get a $400-450 card and to upgrade my monitor to "future-proof" the system. Not interested in that at all. I'm really just looking to get a card capable of 1080p @60fps, without being overkill for that purpose. The current card is aging, hot, and noisy as hell. If i need to upgrade the PSU, please let me know what wattage to look for. Thanks! I'd go with whatever 3060 Ti / 4060 Ti / 6700 XT / 6750 XT hits your desired pricepoint and aesthetic - any one of those four cards will do 1080p gaming with very high detail settings and a rock solid framerate. edit: the power supply miiiight be a little light for the job but I wouldn't stress too much unless the system starts powering itself off during full loads or something
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 18:53 |
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Honestly, I would consider the 4060 Ti to be a little overkill in this circumstance (and overpriced for an 8GB card), and a regular 4060 will be a better value here.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 23:17 |
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UltraShame posted:
If you like to gamble, the new and possibly future king of this segment is the $189 Intel Arc A750: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intels-arc-a750-gpu-drops-dollar189-prior-to-arc-a580-launch It's an insane amount of silicon for that price.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 23:53 |
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Twerk from Home posted:If you like to gamble, the new and possibly future king of this segment is the $189 Intel Arc A750: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intels-arc-a750-gpu-drops-dollar189-prior-to-arc-a580-launch NGL I’m not sure it’s worth the gamble.
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# ? Oct 10, 2023 23:56 |
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So incoming big chunk of text, but I believe the pre-built HP/omen PC I bought 2 and a half years ago has two bad sticks of ram. PC currently runs, but I've had blue screens/crashing every now and then, weird occasional graphical artifacting when scrolling around on YouTube videos, though it's not a constant problem. Restarted the thing, did memtest and the HP equivalent of memtest, and it appears I've got two bad sticks of ram. It's been long enough that I doubt HP will replace them (though I will be calling later this week to find out for sure, I've still got some goofy rear end "care package" post warranty that I'm sure is a rip-off), so in the off chance they do not replace them, I've got some questions:quote:AMD B450 I've bolded the ram and the processor. Given its a pre-built HP, am I locked into the exact same RAM or are there alternatives I can explore? I was AMD processors can work past any OEM nonsense in certain situations, I'd be more than happy to use something not provided by HP if at all possible. If you need more info let me know, I've been scrambling all day today.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 01:21 |
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The weird artifacting when scrolling around youtube videos is actually an Nvidia driver bug. You're getting a solid black square with checkerboarded transparent bits? That's happening to a lot of people. If memtest came up with errors on your memory though, then yeah, looks like they should be replaced. Unfortunately, memory compatibility is tricky with HP prebuilts. You should be able to get most kits of DDR4 to boot, but they won't be able to run at their max rated speeds unless they're specific kits sanctioned by HP. If you can get an exact replacement, that would be ideal.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 01:36 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The weird artifacting when scrolling around youtube videos is actually an Nvidia driver bug. You're getting a solid black square with checkerboarded transparent bits? That's happening to a lot of people. This is why I always beg and plead with people thinking about getting prebuilt that they stay away from Dell and HP and go with something like Corsair or Starforge that uses normal parts. Now if you’re an Apple user I understand buying a Mac from Apple but if you’re using Windows goddamnit you have some options that don’t suck. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Oct 11, 2023 |
# ? Oct 11, 2023 01:44 |
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For what it's worth, I really didn't want to go HP but my options were limited at the time. Lesson learned, we'll see what they tell me in a few days.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 01:52 |
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HyperX is Kingston, right? Don't they have a lifetime warranty on all memory? https://www.kingston.com/en/company/warranty I've warranty replaced some 4+ year old Kingston RAM with no problems before.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 02:09 |
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:The weird artifacting when scrolling around youtube videos is actually an Nvidia driver bug. You're getting a solid black square with checkerboarded transparent bits? That's happening to a lot of people. So what's the opinion on the compatibility lists of the memory manufacturers. With the HP model number it's probably possible to find memory they claim is compatible from the manufacturers' website.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 02:16 |
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I found some Reddit posts claiming that some OMENs got a bios update that unlocked XMP controls. Another thing to check if the warranty doesn’t pan out.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/z6rm6y/overclock_ram_using_an_hp_omen/iyab8pe/ And I’ve seen people bypassing the BIOS XMP lock via Ryzen Master, but if you screw up the set up you apparently have to do a CMOS battery reset, so maybe treat this as the last resort option if you’re not that comfortable with pc troubleshooting.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 02:33 |
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Twerk from Home posted:HyperX is Kingston, right? Don't they have a lifetime warranty on all memory? This limited warranty also does not apply to any product on which the original identification information has been altered, obliterated or removed, that has not been handled or packaged correctly, that has been sold as second-hand or that has been resold contrary to U.S.A. and other applicable export regulations. I think if it’s included in a prebuilt that counts as secondhand ?
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 02:40 |
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DoombatINC posted:I'd go with whatever 3060 Ti / 4060 Ti / 6700 XT / 6750 XT hits your desired pricepoint and aesthetic - any one of those four cards will do 1080p gaming with very high detail settings and a rock solid framerate. This might be a stupid question, but what's the difference between a Geforce and a Geforce TI/AMD & XT?
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 04:03 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 06:12 |
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UltraShame posted:This might be a stupid question, but what's the difference between a Geforce and a Geforce TI/AMD & XT? Ti is better, same with XT. Sometimes it can be a significant difference like even a different amount of ram.
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# ? Oct 11, 2023 04:34 |