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Ham Equity posted:My housemates are trying to hang some curtains. The anchors don't seem to be going very deep into the wall by the window, and there is something hard behind the plaster. Are windows generally surrounded by solid wood? Is it better to hang them with wood screws? Per my housemates, the screws they came with don't go deep enough through the plaster if there is wood behind them. Is there a trick to this? Sometimes there is also a piece of metal near the window frame depending on the construction of your house. If you need to use a wood screw, it's not an issue, just drill a pilot hole.
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Oct 10, 2023 08:56
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Ham Equity posted:My housemates are trying to hang some curtains. The anchors don't seem to be going very deep into the wall by the window, and there is something hard behind the plaster. Are windows generally surrounded by solid wood? Is it better to hang them with wood screws? Per my housemates, the screws they came with don't go deep enough through the plaster if there is wood behind them. Is there a trick to this? There is probably a thin metal strip protecting the drywall there. I would use a stud finder and go into the studs which will be somewhat further out from the window itself. Or if you're using drywall anchors just go a couple inches out.
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Oct 10, 2023 10:20
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Ham Equity posted:My housemates are trying to hang some curtains. The anchors don't seem to be going very deep into the wall by the window, and there is something hard behind the plaster. Are windows generally surrounded by solid wood? Is it better to hang them with wood screws? Per my housemates, the screws they came with don't go deep enough through the plaster if there is wood behind them. Is there a trick to this? Yes there is typically wood framing around a window in a residential home. Wood being there is ideal, and yes you can screw right in. If the included screws aren't long enough to clear the plaster youll want longer ones. Also, plaster is often (always?) laid on wood lathe. It's possible you find surprising wood elsewhere, but given its by the window, Id bet framing.
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Oct 10, 2023 13:59
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I felt like a dummy that it took me so long to figure this out but looking at images of common framing patterns is super helpful when dealing with cable running and wall mounting
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Oct 10, 2023 14:10
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Ham Equity - if there is indeed wood there behind the plaster (or more likely drywall) then your friends should not use the drywall anchors. 1.5-2" wood screws (not drywall screws) that are appropriately sized to fit through the holes in your mounting brackets are the way to go.
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Oct 10, 2023 15:08
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The King Studs must be separated by numerous cripples to prevent system collapse.
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Oct 10, 2023 15:20
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Bixington posted:The King Studs must be separated by numerous cripples to prevent system collapse. Same as it ever was
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Oct 10, 2023 15:28
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It's also worth noting that whenever you get screws that come with some basic kit, those screws are almost always the shittiest, most marginal things you could ever hope to see. They'll be made of soft, low-grade steel, and will strip out at the slightest provocation. They're basically single-use; if you have to back them out, you won't be able to drive them in again without a lot of swearing. High-quality screws purchased separately (preferably, using either a square or star drive) will make your life much easier.
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Oct 10, 2023 16:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:Don't know poo poo about permits and laws, but I built a shed that's around 16.5 by 16.5 feet and I wish I built it bigger already Yeah, build it bigger than you think you should. I tore down my 10x20 shed when I built my workshop and probably should've gone a little bigger It's 30x40 with a basement a drive out basement edit: actually it's fine for now, 10-year-from-me-now may think differently dyne fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 02:13
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My carpentry workshop is 16x24, and that's been big enough for me. Like, I'm sure if I had more space, I'd use it, but also probably I'd've ended up doing something dumb like buy a jointer and a lathe, neither of which are really called for with the kinds of projects and production volume I undertake.
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Oct 11, 2023 04:14
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Motronic posted:To be fair, a lot of carb replacement and carb parts (likely what your service works is consisting of) are absolute crap these days. Good thing they're cheap. There’s a thread for this! Seriously though, in a world of corngas, being able to take a carb off, take it apart, clean it, and put it back together is nearly mandatory. Not hard, either. Required tools include a couple small screwdrivers, carb cleaner, and beer. Most of the time the needle is just stuck in the seat from the combination of gas varnish and ethanol goop and frees right up with a squirt of carb cleaner. I’ve had the idle bleeds get blocked with gas goop too.
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Oct 12, 2023 04:02
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For home network stuff, is it better to have all the infrastructure in the basement or attic? Our basement is unfinished and damp (has a dehumidifier and sump, the dehumidifier keeps it at like 40% rh) and I’m not aware of any issues with the attic but wouldn’t it get much hotter up there? Has anyone tried one and then the other? The infrastructure stuff is a Linux thin client, NAS, UPS, and a big switch and router. Looking to eventually run ethernet to most rooms and through a conduit to some outbuildings that are already wired through the basement.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:25
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tuyop posted:For home network stuff, is it better to have all the infrastructure in the basement or attic? I wouldn't store any of your networking gear in an attic space that is unconditioned. Heat and water are the enemy for electronics and 40% RH is perfectly fine.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:37
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I live in the SE, and I wouldn't dream of even storing electronics in the attic, or even the garage, let alone running electronics. Heat kills electronics, even a well ventilated attic is going to easily be 110+ in the summer around here... don't underestimate the amount of heat the sun is pushing in to your attic, even in colder climates. Basement would be a pretty sure bet as long as it's high enough to avoid flooding... at least that's (presumably) connected to conditioned space, if not conditioned itself. Crawl space would be a maybe around here, stays cool enough but can get humid if you don't have it encapsulated and a dehumidifier running. Once we encapsulate I could see moving my network gear down there once I'm more confident about the conditions, but for now I keep it in the laundry room. 40% RH is absolutely fine for electronics... that's like a great number for your house in general.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:57
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Glancing over at my basement closet filled with electronics sitting at 60% RH.
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Oct 12, 2023 15:03
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Our house, because it's just encased in trees, seems to stay in a 60-70 rh range. I'd love to do some whole home de-humidifying if needed. Any suggestions there?
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Oct 12, 2023 15:06
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Thank you, in the basement it is! Next question... My fibre line comes in through one of these.  Looks like I could pretty easily snake it through the hole in the wall down through the floorboards. But the wall that it's going through is actually just... floating, it doesn't intersect with the basement. It's a bay window with nothing below the floor outside. I'm going to call the ISP and see if they'll come and just route it the way I want, because I don't want to mess with SFP cables in a tight space. But if they say no, is it best to: 1) cut my losses and find some nice way to place the modem next to the SFP drop, then route ethernet to the basement, 2) fish the fibre line through the wall and then down to the basement, or, 3) pull the fibre out of the exterior wall (carefully!) and install my own drop for it in the right place? This would just be to get the modem in the basement. From there it's all ethernet cabling. That Works posted:Glancing over at my basement closet filled with electronics sitting at 60% RH. brb turning up this dehumidifier
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Oct 12, 2023 15:15
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Hi, 60% humidity is a normal target for humidifiers like dual function air purifiers. Less than 40% and your skin will feel it.
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Oct 12, 2023 15:18
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tuyop posted:1) cut my losses and find some nice way to place the modem next to the SFP drop, then route ethernet to the basement, Call up the ISP and see if they will move the drop. If they won't, then #3. As long as you don't bend the cable too much pulling it out and re-routing should be easy enough, assuming there's enough slack to get it where you want. You don't want to bury that connection in a wall or otherwise inaccessible spot.
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Oct 12, 2023 15:24
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remember to protect the fiber cap when moving it. Dust will screw you pretty hard
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Oct 12, 2023 15:25
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The ISP almost certainly will move it if you ask, but will probably charge you a callout fee. As long as it isn't many hundreds of dollars it will be worth the troubles saved. I think that Verizon charges $99 to move the drop.
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Oct 12, 2023 15:56
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This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. I've tried searching by lumens but that doesn't turn up much other than ALLCAPS led offerings. I'd be fine with a lamp that takes a number of bulbs (where I can use 100w equivalent leds), as long as it throws the light upwards and is still pretty compact width-wise.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:30
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armorer posted:This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. Similar problem here with a dark living room in the winter. I just bought a 6 foot $30 floor lamp at Walmart and use an LED bulb, and the light reflecting off the walls and ceiling in that corner really brightens the place up. I don't think you'd need any sort of specialty lamp or bulb.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:43
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I have a three bulb floor lamp in there now and the room just swallows up the light. The ceiling is high and I feel like even if I added a second copy of the light that's there it would still feel dark. I think that lamp has 60w equivalent bulbs in it now (daylight). I can check when I'm home though.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:48
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armorer posted:This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. I bought three of these dimmable floor lamps a couple years back for my living room and I love them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07584P262/ They are remote controlled, and all are keyed the same, so any of the remotes will control all three lights simultaneously. I do recall seeing a similar variation a while back where you can also control color temp with the remote if you want to get fancy. These just have buttons for on, off, brightness up, and brightness down.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:50
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armorer posted:This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. You're overthinking this, I would recommend you go to a department store or furniture store and just look at them. Anything with a removable bulb would be able to be brightened, and you already seem to know some rough requirements, upward facing lights and size, that should help eliminate a bunch of them. Floor lamps really don't have a lot of variation due to inherent constraint in the medium. They need to be narrow, tall, have a heavy base, and they need to keep the center of gravity over that base. That leads to poles, tripods or similar, and something resembling a crane. https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2022/02/good-floor-lamp-hard-to-find/622850/ [quote]Buying a floor lamp should be pretty easy. You don’t have to try one on for size. You don’t have to sit on it to make sure it’s comfortable. You don’t have to worry that, once in your home, it will behave in ways substantially different from what you expected. It’s a floor lamp. As long as you have a tape measure and the ability to look at photos on your phone, you should be good to go. Target alone has more than 1,300 options available on its website, starting at $10. Pick one. And yet I have been shopping for a floor lamp for, conservatively, five years. The process, which repeats itself a couple of times a year, always starts the same way: It’s too dim to read a book after dinner on my end of the couch. I get frustrated but dispense with the idea of a table lamp—no outlet, too little end-table real estate. Eyeing the narrow opening between a potted plant and a shelving unit along the nearest wall, I begin the search for a floor lamp anew. But the process always ends the same way too: An hour later, full of disgust at zillions of heinous options that somehow all look like the same five stupid lamps, I toss my phone onto the cushion next to me and go to bed, like some exasperated infomercial character. What I’m experiencing is, admittedly, the dumbest and least important problem on Earth, but it’s made all the more irritating precisely because it feels so obviously solvable: In all of human history, buying things has never been easier. I want exactly what the internet has ostensibly been designed to offer me, and it is nowhere to be found. Instead, I’m teased with things I can’t use: What about all these beautiful table lamps and chandeliers and pendants and sconces? Too bad. Until last week, I assumed that this was a personal problem—that I’m too picky, or too indecisive, or too snooty to settle for what’s in my price range. Then I wrote a flippant tweet about my inability to find a good floor lamp and, quite unexpectedly, so many people agreed that it achieved a level of virality I had previously not thought possible for a missive on lighting. Many people told me that they, too, had been on the hunt for years, to no avail. Unless you want a shiny metal orb projected into the middle of your living room, a spare metal tripod with a cream-colored shade, or an Edison bulb on a stick, most of the options sort of suck. But that left me with a whole new question: Why do decent floor lamps stump the Leviathan of internet shopping? If you’re just an average person trying to furnish your home, there’s no reason you’d pick up on this, but floor-lamp design appears to have mostly stalled out more than 50 years ago. When you search for a new lamp and are presented with a barrage of the aforementioned shiny metal orbs, what you’re really seeing is a rip-off of the Arco lamp, designed by Achille and Pier Castiglioni in the 1960s. If you’re looking at a fluorescent tube on a minimalist stand, you’re seeing the influence of Eileen Gray. A desk lamp made tall? Gino Sarfatti or Serge Mouille or Gaetano Pesce. A paper lantern? Isamu Noguchi. If it feels like you keep finding meaningless variations on only a handful of themes, it’s because you do. Other types of lighting don’t seem to suffer from this problem. Indeed, if you need anything but a floor lamp, your options are full of color and angularity and cleverness. David Weeks, an influential lighting designer who has been running his own Brooklyn studio since 1996, told me that the form itself is the first obstacle. Tall, skinny objects are an engineering problem: You need to balance the weight of the material, the height of the lamp, and the diameter of the base to get something that stands up, looks nice, and fits in easily with other furniture. And in order to comply with commercial-building codes or to be carried by many retailers, lamps also have to pass muster with UL, an independent safety-certification company. (You’ve probably seen its little symbol on plenty of product packaging, floor lamps and beyond.) For standing lamps, that means sitting securely on an incline without falling over. To prevent tipping, Weeks said, you need either a material so heavy that the base doesn’t need to be very wide or a base so wide that sitting the lamp near a wall or other furniture can be difficult. That’s why most standing lamps are metal, specifically steel: It’s one of the only materials that’s heavy enough, affordable enough, and easy enough to manipulate. But steel’s ubiquity also really limits what your lamps will look like. “We’ve designed lots of wood standing lamps, but you can’t make them heavy enough,” Weeks said. “They all fall over.” Even if you do manage to design something sturdy and functional, the stretched proportions of a floor lamp don’t necessarily lend themselves to aesthetic pleasure. When you get to more than four feet tall, he said, a lot of things end up ugly. Despite these limitations, Weeks said he really likes floor lamps, and enjoys the challenge of designing a good one. But they’re definitely harder to pull off than all the other forms he makes. “That’s kind of the secret of lighting,” he said. “When you want to design furniture, you have to hold up 200 pounds and someone has to stand on it and hang on it and put weight on it. Lighting, it hangs from the ceiling, so it has no rules.” Floor lamps, in that way, are more like furniture than fixtures—down here on the ground with the rest of us, beholden to gravity and the needs of humans moving through space. “It can be very artistically freeing to design something from the ceiling down,” Lindsey Adelman, a New York–based lighting designer who has run her own studio for more than 15 years, told me. This approach, she said, also appeals to her clients, who are looking for an art piece as much as a functional fixture. Hanging something from the ceiling gives them much more space to work with and many more options for how it might look; it also guarantees the piece’s visibility and permanence, which can be important at the top of the market, where large fixtures run $50,000 or more. Adelman said that client interest in floor lamps is pretty infrequent, even though most of her collections include an option or two. Some of the young designers she knows don’t even offer them. Lighting, of course, doesn’t exist in a vacuum—it’s chosen to fit a particular type of space. When you look at the kinds of homes that wealthy people tend to be decorating, the decision to hoist something up in the air makes sense on a functional level. Since the postwar era, the American home has become steadily less formal, according to Sarah Schleuning, a senior curator of decorative arts and design at the Dallas Museum of Art. Floor plans have opened up, furniture arrangements have gotten less standardized, and how we interact with decor has changed. People now zigzag across breezy, high-ceilinged living spaces with multiple points of entry, so cords need to be totally hidden and accessories—like lamps—become tripping hazards if they stick out. Schleuning, who co-curated “Electrifying Design: A Century of Lighting” at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, in 2021, told me that floor lamps have historically tended to get stuck in corners or against walls. But if none of your other furniture is against a wall, you probably don’t want a floor lamp, and if you do want light around the perimeter of a room, you might install some sconces instead: They offer more design variety, hide all the wiring, and don’t take up any floor space. By virtue of being a renter, I cannot rewire my apartment to install fixtures of my choosing, and by virtue of being a journalist, I do not have tens (or even ones) of thousands of dollars to spend on lighting of any kind. But the nature of mass-market design, whether it’s fashion or home decor, means that the tastes of the wealthy help determine what’s available to me anyway. As Americans—encouraged by HGTV and shelter mags and home-decor Instagrams—have begun to demand better-looking home products at lower prices, much of what populates Target and Wayfair and H&M Home is, shall we say, inspired by the products at the top of the market. If high-end clients aren’t pressing designers to solve the engineering problems of floor lamps in artful ways, it probably won’t get done. “If there’s not much innovation happening,” Weeks said, “there’s not a lot of opportunity to exploit ideas.” As a result, the most popular design tropes of mid-century modernists such as the Castiglioni brothers are typically the most attractive things to be had for a few hundred bucks, even if you’re sick of looking at them. And I am. I may have answered my questions, but I still haven’t bought a floor lamp.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:50
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The best value for a durable, functional floor lamp is the Walmart $10 lamp: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-71-Floor-Lamp-Black-Plastic-Modern-Styling-for-Young-Adult-Dorm-or-Adult-Home-Office/12173437 Unless you have a recommendation for a specific model I'd stay away from anything else inexpensive. In my experience they tend to break disappointingly early. So either go cheap as hell with the Walmart lamp or go for something with reasonable quality
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Oct 12, 2023 19:00
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armorer posted:I have a three bulb floor lamp in there now and the room just swallows up the light. The ceiling is high and I feel like even if I added a second copy of the light that's there it would still feel dark. I think that lamp has 60w equivalent bulbs in it now (daylight). I can check when I'm home though. Double post since you added this detail. Good lighting design works in layers. The skylight, I presume, is bright and reflects quite a bit on it's entrance into the room, and is a large source of light, which will help provide even coverage without well defined shadows. I am sitting under a flat panel light fixture that acts as a small skylight, and the shadows in this office are soft, not as large as the objects, with smooth gradient edges. It's a nice light for a single point of light, and appropriate for an office or workspace, but not cozy for a bedroom or living space alone. The lights in my living room are two lamps on each side of the couch and a supplemental floor lamp, which is a chandelier style floor lamp. The crystals diffuse that light and it's not too difficult to look at. It is not very bright in that room at night, which is great for sitting or watching TV. It's bad for my PSVR2 which needs a bit more light for the cameras to really track the location and I supplement it with a loose shop light. You said two things, Living Room, and rental. If you have any small tables, consider table sized lamps out of your field of vision, or alongside where you sit. That will provide light towards what you're looking at. Provide more than one though, so the shadows are cut down and items are lit evenly. Focus the three bulb lamp on the wall if you can for a bounce effect without shining the light directly on you. Other items to consider would be a swag light, hung from something temporary on the ceiling and plugged into the wall to add another soft point of light in the room somewhere.
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Oct 12, 2023 19:01
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armorer posted:This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. We recently got these for our living room in lieu of floor lamps: https://a.co/d/i0zEfEt I like them a bit better because floor lamps are kinda crappy in general.
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Oct 12, 2023 19:02
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Shifty Pony posted:The ISP almost certainly will move it if you ask, but will probably charge you a callout fee. As long as it isn't many hundreds of dollars it will be worth the troubles saved. They agreed to do this and waived the fee! Kind of the ideal state of affairs this way woo
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Oct 12, 2023 19:52
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I would also recommend some mirrors, I was in a similar situation and having a few mirrors hanging on perpendicular walls brightened the place up more than I was expecting.
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Oct 12, 2023 19:57
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Get one of those absurdly bright leds intended for outdoor usage and use it as a spill light
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Oct 12, 2023 20:00
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Benagain posted:I would also recommend some mirrors, I was in a similar situation and having a few mirrors hanging on perpendicular walls brightened the place up more than I was expecting. Interesting as I usually feel differently. I end up with a mirror that, instead of diffusing light and being something bright in my field of vision, it is now reflecting a dark surface and makes the rooms feel dark. It's hard to light a mirrored space.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:02
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Adjustable uplights are also a reasonable solution if you have a white ceiling and just want to add more light generally to the room. They can be hidden behind furniture or mounted to the wall. Speaking of lighting I've decided I'm pretty all in on Phillips "ultra definition" LED bulbs. The color quality is quite nice but what really sells me on them is the fact that they actually dim down to almost nothing with zero flicker and do a pretty good approximation of the shift to more reddish light that that you get dimming an incandescent.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:26
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The skylight is good in the summer, but I'm in the PNW so in the winter it may as well be a solid ceiling, it effectively contributes nothing to the room in terms of brightness. Also it gets dark early and light late, so there are many hours that I'm awake where it's just pitch black outside. I agree I am totally overthinking it, but that's because I really only have space in the room for one or two floor lamps so I'm trying to figure out what can get me the most light (and the one lamp I have now is woefully inadequate). Bouncing it off the high ceiling is going to be the best approach, I can't put a ton of holes in the wall to mount sconces and I'm not keen on lights that will be bright and in my direct line of vision. Those uplights might work because I have a few bookcases I can sit them on, I will look into that idea more.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:52
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I’m a little confused. If you just want the room to be brighter, put brighter bulbs in your existing sockets. You can get like 200W-equivalent LEDs now. If you want to decorate with lamps, that’s a different thing, but you don’t actually need more or different lamps if all you want is higher lumens. The type of lamp doesn’t determine the amount of brightness. (It used to more with incandescents, because some small lights would be limited to 75W or whatever, but with LEDs the wattage is so much lower that you can go wild) Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 21:05
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i like nice words
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Well in "bets I would have lost" news I had my new 1976 house tested for asbestos with a blank check to the testing company and it came back with 0 asbestos except on the things labeled "asbestos" on the side. I have a flue in my garage for the water heater labeled "transite" which is, shockingly, asbestos (they did not test it) and a ton of friable ductwork which they also did not test. All the drywall samples, including shaved and existing popcorn ceiling, stucco, etc all was exactly 0% asbestos. I was expecting to need to bag up a ton of popcorn ceiling in addition to the friable ductwork and was very happy not to need to do that. Spray bottle and a scraper it is. Basically just going to (only half) jokingly tell my GC to slop it straight onto the carpet, roll it up, and take it all out as one thing.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:14
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armorer posted:This may not be the right place, so please point me a better thread if that's best. I rent, and my living room is very dark for at least half the year. It has no overhead lights, and a skylight that's good in the summer. I want to get one or two very bright floor lamps to brighten it up through the winter months but I don't really have a good handle on how to search for such a thing. Go to a brick and mortar lighting or lighting/furniture store, bring pictures of your space and show it to them and they will be able to offer you something that throws enough light in the right directions. They do poo poo like this all the time for huge residential and commercial jobs. I like Artemide and Flos, you can find a list of dealers on their websites, but there are a million options besides them at many price points.
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Oct 12, 2023 21:40
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Also, pay attention to the temperature of the light that's something you'll be happy with for hours. I personally have difficulty with pure white/daylight color lights indoors for long periods and I seem to be happiest around 2700-3000K. \/ oh yeah, changeable ones are an option too \/ slidebite fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 22:31
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Changing color temp on smart bulbs throughout the day is a pretty pro choice imo. We do bright white during the day and transition to a warm yellow when it’s time to convince the baby to go to bed.
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Oct 12, 2023 22:39
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