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USB DAC or toslink/hdmi to a receiver. At least that's what I've sworn by for the last 15 years.
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Oct 15, 2023 17:51
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Been using digital outputs to a receiver for 20 years (AC3 encoded optical toslink/SPDIF and later HDMI). The only complication is HDMI counts as a full monitor output which has to be enabled and showing a picture for the audio to work. Windows/drivers used to play pretty well if you just set it as a clone of your existing display, but high refresh rates/VRR/Gsync have thrown a wrench in that in that it will typically cause all displays in the chain to lock at 60 Hz including the high refresh or VRR ones. My specific workaround is I have a dual monitor setup where my secondary monitor is a DVI monitor, I plug that into the HDMI output on my receiver using an adapter cable, and the input to the receiver comes from a HDMI port on the GPU. So the GPU just sees my secondary monitor as having audio support and being connected through a repeater. The workaround also solves another issue: nvidia GPUs will fail to idle with more than 2 displays connected. The receiver connected independently counts as a third display and will prevent idle, but connecting the second display through the receiver means only two outputs from the GPU are being driven and it will still idle down correctly.
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Oct 15, 2023 18:07
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Wibla posted:USB DAC or toslink/hdmi to a receiver. USB DAC eh? Never came across that before. That might actually solve a tech hurdle that's preventing me from replacing one of my monitors. My work laptop doesn't have a functioning audio out port (it's an XPS 13) , so rather than use the fairly shite laptop speakers, I've got a basic set of speakers hooked up to a Dell U2711 monitor that the laptop is connected to. The monitor is oooold and has a bit of an orange tint from the sun or screen burn or whatever, but without a solution to the sound thing for the laptop I felt a bit stuck.
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Oct 15, 2023 18:56
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Kin posted:USB DAC eh? Never came across that before. God help you finding this stuff. Audiophiles are objectively insane so I've had some difficulty figuring out what I wanted to buy to handle some entry-level Sennheisers. I ended up getting a combo DAC/Amp (FiiO K5 Pro ESS) through Amazon just to see if I need it, but the consensus is you don't have to spend much more than $100 to get your needs beyond met. They even have portable ones, and Apple has a USB C-to-3.5mm dongle that has a decent DAC built in. That's probably more for headphones though.
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Oct 15, 2023 19:04
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I have a new tower case on order, a Lancool 216 that should arrive in the next few weeks. I also found a good deal on a 1000w PSU that will be more than enough for my end-of-year new GPU purchase. The main reason I'm getting a new case is for better airflow since my current tower runs pretty hot and only has two case fans. The Lancool can mount more fans on the top of the case so today I'm asking what what would be a good option for additional case fans, preferably cheaper ones. I'm not a big fan of RGB lights so if I can find a more power efficient fan that doesn't have them and it's cheaper the better.
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Oct 15, 2023 19:14
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Kin posted:USB DAC eh? Never came across that before. Unless you have a need for something more than stereo or need something to drive high impedance headphones, the $10 usb-c audio adapter from Apple works on dang near everything and is more than good enough. If you want surround sound, things get a bit more difficult and a lot more expensive.
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Oct 15, 2023 19:17
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Arc Hammer posted:I have a new tower case on order, a Lancool 216 that should arrive in the next few weeks. I also found a good deal on a 1000w PSU that will be more than enough for my end-of-year new GPU purchase. The main reason I'm getting a new case is for better airflow since my current tower runs pretty hot and only has two case fans. The Lancool can mount more fans on the top of the case so today I'm asking what what would be a good option for additional case fans, preferably cheaper ones. I'm not a big fan of RGB lights so if I can find a more power efficient fan that doesn't have them and it's cheaper the better. Arctic P-12 for 120mm fans are the best value.
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Oct 15, 2023 19:18
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My P14 fans squeal around 800-1100rpm. A-RGB versions do not. Based on that I can’t recommend the regular black versions.
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Oct 15, 2023 20:25
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Arc Hammer posted:I have a new tower case on order, a Lancool 216 that should arrive in the next few weeks. I also found a good deal on a 1000w PSU that will be more than enough for my end-of-year new GPU purchase. The main reason I'm getting a new case is for better airflow since my current tower runs pretty hot and only has two case fans. The Lancool can mount more fans on the top of the case so today I'm asking what what would be a good option for additional case fans, preferably cheaper ones. I'm not a big fan of RGB lights so if I can find a more power efficient fan that doesn't have them and it's cheaper the better. Unless you have an insanely hot-running setup, the 216 doesn't need any extra fans. The included ones are legitimately great. grack fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Oct 15, 2023 |
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Oct 15, 2023 20:25
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Well Played Mauer posted:God help you finding this stuff. Audiophiles are objectively insane so I've had some difficulty figuring out what I wanted to buy to handle some entry-level Sennheisers. I ended up getting a combo DAC/Amp (FiiO K5 Pro ESS) through Amazon just to see if I need it, but the consensus is you don't have to spend much more than $100 to get your needs beyond met. They even have portable ones, and Apple has a USB C-to-3.5mm dongle that has a decent DAC built in. That's probably more for headphones though. my answer to this problem 2 computers ago was to just buy a $100 soundcard (Asus essence STX II) which has a strong enough amp built in to drive my sennheister hd650s, but with my new case mounting the GPU vertically all the other PCI slots are half length ... and the soundcard is not half length. so i'm probably gonna have to forsake it and get something similar to what you did if you can fit it in your case / on your mobo, though, this is the one scenario where soundcards are still relevant
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Oct 15, 2023 20:38
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Re: audio stuff: You should never spend more on specialty audio equipment than you're spending on your actual speakers/headphones. I have recommended some $150 - $200 DACs before, like the Fiio K5 Pro or K7, but they only really make sense if you have really good high-impedance headphones you wish to drive (e.g. Sennheiser HD600 or HD650). Or if you have really good high-sensitivity, low-impedance headphones (e.g. Hifiman's planar stuff or IEMs) and your integrated motherboard audio has audible noise, though in that case you can possibly get away with a cheaper solution with a lower-power amp (especially with IEMs). These things are also primarily made for headphones, and you can't really do a surround-sound speaker setup with them like Kin has (though they at least have stereo RCA out). In this case, a receiver is probably the play, or maybe this is even the rare case where a sound card might make sense (though I dislike spending money on an audio solution that stays inside a computer case full of EMI).Arc Hammer posted:I have a new tower case on order, a Lancool 216 that should arrive in the next few weeks. I also found a good deal on a 1000w PSU that will be more than enough for my end-of-year new GPU purchase. The main reason I'm getting a new case is for better airflow since my current tower runs pretty hot and only has two case fans. The Lancool can mount more fans on the top of the case so today I'm asking what what would be a good option for additional case fans, preferably cheaper ones. I'm not a big fan of RGB lights so if I can find a more power efficient fan that doesn't have them and it's cheaper the better. Seconding the recommendation to not buy any extra fans. The front fans on the 216 are larger than standard, and they push a ton of air. And if you're getting a standard air cooler, top fans are of limited value. The 216 has an option of mounting fans on the PSU shroud as intake (since the left side of the PSU basement is perforated), which can help GPU thermals a little, but it shouldn't be necessary.
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Oct 16, 2023 00:40
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I'm thinking of getting a Wifi 6e router, for doing wireless PCVR gaming. Because there are a lot of wifi signals, which is bogging down the wireless performance. I've confirmed this by seeing how big of a difference in performance I got when I brought my pcvr rig to my parents in the desert and got much smoother performance, even with their crappy little ISP provided router/modem combo. My question is, if it's likely that even Wifi 6e will get bogged down once the price gets low and it gets more popular. Or maybe if it might already be being bogged down if a lot of people around me have Wifi 6e, since a lot of techie type people live around here.
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Oct 16, 2023 00:59
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ChocNitty posted:I'm thinking of getting a Wifi 6e router, for doing wireless PCVR gaming. Because there are a lot of wifi signals, which is bogging down the wireless performance. This is probably a question best for the home networking thread tbh https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1 Or possibly the VR thread? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3901021&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1
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Oct 16, 2023 01:01
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ChocNitty posted:My question is, if it's likely that even Wifi 6e will get bogged down once the price gets low and it gets more popular. The 6ghz band can't become bogged down, because the higher the frequency goes the more data it can carry (and the more open channels it can fit) and the less range the signal has. 5ghz already sucks at going through walls, and 6ghz is worse than that. This means your neighbors signals won't reach you. It also means you're probably going to want your VR headset to have line-of-sight to the router, or near to it, again because of the attenuation. The only VR headset that can accept 6E right now is the Meta Quest 3. Before you worry about that, you should first try to get a 40-series NVidia card, because AV1 streaming is already supported on Quest 3 with Virtual Desktop and it runs significantly better than HEVC while needing less bandwidth. You didn't "confirm" the interference by comparing your rig in the desert. For all you know there was no interference at your original place, but the walls were made from plaster and steel mesh which blocks wifi, or your router had a faulty antenna or was misconfigured. You need to be a little more scientific than that. edit: Also don't forget you can get a 6e PCI card on Amazon for $24 and set up your desktop rig to connect peer-to-peer with the Quest 3 or whatever else gets 6e (with the Windows 10/11 Hotspot ad-hoc mode) https://www.amazon.com/QFly-Wireless-5400Mbps-Tri-Band-Ultra-Low/dp/B0C3VTXP1N/ It might work fine and save you a lot of money; if it doesn't you can just return it. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 16, 2023 04:06
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ChocNitty posted:Or maybe if it might already be being bogged down if a lot of people around me have Wifi 6e, since a lot of techie type people live around here. I'm not an expert but I've heard the most important thing with PCVR over wifi is having a band that's dedicated to streaming to the VR headset and nothing else. In my apartment, I have everything important connected over ethernet, and then my 5ghz connection is solely for the Quest 2, and it works flawlessly. My phone/tablet/whatever else I have set to only connect to the 2.4ghz band.
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Oct 16, 2023 09:22
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Re: audio stuff: You should never spend more on specialty audio equipment than you're spending on your actual speakers/headphones. I have recommended some $150 - $200 DACs before, like the Fiio K5 Pro or K7, but they only really make sense if you have really good high-impedance headphones you wish to drive (e.g. Sennheiser HD600 or HD650). Or if you have really good high-sensitivity, low-impedance headphones (e.g. Hifiman's planar stuff or IEMs) and your integrated motherboard audio has audible noise, though in that case you can possibly get away with a cheaper solution with a lower-power amp (especially with IEMs). These things are also primarily made for headphones, and you can't really do a surround-sound speaker setup with them like Kin has (though they at least have stereo RCA out). In this case, a receiver is probably the play, or maybe this is even the rare case where a sound card might make sense (though I dislike spending money on an audio solution that stays inside a computer case full of EMI). Cheers for that. Yeah, the long and short of it is that I'm looking for 2 cheap solutions for the following problems 1) to get the basic 2 speaker set hooked up to the xps13 rather than my monitor 2) to restore the full set of speakers for my new rig. To be honest, I'm no audiophile, and my 5 speakers are pretty much just lined up in front of me because I've never had the space to put rear speakers actually behind me. At the minute I haven't really noticed a big change in the sound from my pc now that it's only using the front 2 speakers. When I'm gaming, I usually switch the display over to the 50" TV which has a sound bar connected to it. It might not even be worth the bother to address it for the odd occasion i play games from my monitor and might even be worth downgrading the speaker setup to maybe give me more desk space.
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Oct 16, 2023 09:31
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Kin posted:...my 5 speakers are pretty much just lined up in front of me because I've never had the space to put rear speakers actually behind me... Yes
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Oct 16, 2023 09:39
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Okay well, based on how you say you've used those speakers in the past, yes, absolutely just use the front two and a sub. Having the rear speakers be in front of you does absolutely nothing for improving your audio experience. Having an actual surround sound setup is pretty cool, but if you're just gonna do regular stereo audio, then don't overcomplicate it. Plugging your speakers into your monitor is a perfectly viable thing to do. Most modern monitors have their own audio processor, and you can usually send the line out to your speakers. That way, whatever's plugged into your monitor should always have audio through that. Why do you want to plug them directly into your laptop?
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Oct 16, 2023 11:00
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Plugging your speakers into your monitor is a perfectly viable thing to do. Most modern monitors have their own audio processor, and you can usually send the line out to your speakers. That way, whatever's plugged into your monitor should always have audio through that. Why do you want to plug them directly into your laptop? It's mostly just to give me options for upgrading my monitor really. The U2711 is good and is serving me well, but it's old, big and heavy and probably doesn't hold up too well vs modern monitors. It's also got slight discolouration from the sun over the last 10 years or so, etc. I wasn't keen on spending another £700+ replacing it with a more modern Ultrasharp (because I maybe haven't used it to its fullest potential), but all the cheaper 27" 1440p monitors I came across didn't have the same number of ports that the U2711 has. Noted on the speakers too. I'll just unhook the rear ones for now and stick with what I've got for the two front ones/sub.
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Oct 16, 2023 12:23
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Kin posted:It's mostly just to give me options for upgrading my monitor really. The U2711 is good and is serving me well, but it's old, big and heavy and probably doesn't hold up too well vs modern monitors. It's also got slight discolouration from the sun over the last 10 years or so, etc. Headphone output is a very common feature on modern monitors, so it wouldn't limit your options much. But the Apple adapter is a simple and independent option, probably even tiny bit better than a monitor output.
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Oct 16, 2023 14:33
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Get this if you have a spare USB c port, op https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter If not, get this https://a.co/d/hdkybz1 KillHour fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 16, 2023 15:20
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Butterfly Valley posted:I'm not an expert but I've heard the most important thing with PCVR over wifi is having a band that's dedicated to streaming to the VR headset and nothing else. In my apartment, I have everything important connected over ethernet, and then my 5ghz connection is solely for the Quest 2, and it works flawlessly. My phone/tablet/whatever else I have set to only connect to the 2.4ghz band. That's a solid troubleshooting step. I setup a dedicated router, and shut off the other router so that no other devices were using bandwidth, but it didnt help. I also tried all the different broadcast channels. Updated router firmware. Played with the router antennas. I also noticed that during the same time in the evening, for a couple hours, my wireless performance got really bad, then suddenly it would get better again. Across all games. Made me suspect even more it had something to do with wifi traffic. Zero VGS posted:The 6ghz band can't become bogged down, because the higher the frequency goes the more data it can carry (and the more open channels it can fit) and the less range the signal has. 5ghz already sucks at going through walls, and 6ghz is worse than that. This means your neighbors signals won't reach you. It also means you're probably going to want your VR headset to have line-of-sight to the router, or near to it, again because of the attenuation. Thanks for the feedback. Got the Quest 3. Decided to get the 6e router, to fix the problem by process of elimination, and return it if it didn't help. Amazon delivered it in just a couple hours and I set it up, and now wireless PCVR slays. Both Virtual Desktop with Steam VR, and Oculus Airlink with Rift games. The difference is dramatic. Bumped up the bitrate and resolution, and the framerates are steady as a rock. I'm guessing in most cases, the problem isn't from too much 5ghz traffic. But where I live the amount of signals is exceptionally high. The buildings in a compact cube shape so peoples opened windows and balcony doors are facing each other. There's a lot of tech industry people living here. Refreshed my iPhone's wifi list and its showing 24 ssid's, not counting hidden ones or mine. I'm glad to hear that I won't have to worry about 6e traffic either. MeatRocket8 fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Oct 16, 2023 |
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Oct 16, 2023 18:18
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i really, really badly want to know if that guy put thermal paste under his CPU
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Oct 16, 2023 19:09
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not knowing is doing me physical harm
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Oct 16, 2023 19:09
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Zoya posted:i really, really badly want to know if that guy put thermal paste under his CPU 
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Oct 16, 2023 19:42
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I remember doing a built in the late 90s with an AMD thunderbird. There was no lid on the CPU, just a bare die and some rubber pads on the edges. I bought a copper shim so I wouldn't crack the die putting on my heavy $50 copper/aluminum heatsink (no heatpipes at the time). I didn't know what the gently caress I was doing so I ended up putting some paste under the shim and over the shim in case it would help with thermals. I never put it in the socket, though.
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Oct 16, 2023 20:14
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Not sure if this is the correct thread to post this in, but: I have a new system from earlier this year: AMD 7950x Gigabyte B650E Aorus Master AMD B650 32 GB 6000 MHz RAM running XMP 1 Profile (cross-checked with MB to work) AMD 6950 XT WD_BLACK 4TB SN850X Windows 11 And since last week, I've been getting an occasional "15" error code on my MB. Looking it up, it seems to be either memory-related or card related. It happened right after my computer restarted after a Windows update. This first time, it would just not boot up no matter how many times I powered it on and off, and only after I took out the RAM sticks and put them back in did it get back into Windows. Recently, rebooting fixes the issue. I updated my graphics card drivers and updated to the latest BIOS to see if it gets fixed (chipset is already the latest). What could this be? Not sure if related, but I got a "Windows is checking for disk errors" screen when starting my computer earlier today. This error checking happened once or twice before on this system, and for some reason, frequently enough in the last 3 of my systems since 2010 that it seems normal to me (probably seen this screen like 40-50 times). (Interestingly, my wife's identical systems did not have this issue or any of my other issues.) small butter fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Oct 17, 2023 |
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Oct 17, 2023 01:39
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Hey sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but I'm looking to sell some used PC parts and I guess I need a vibe check on what my asking price should be... - MSI B450 Gaming Plus w/ original manual. - AMD Ryzen 3600, original box and CPU cooler. - Corsair 500w bronze PSU (semi modular) w/ original box. - Corsair H60 cpu cooler - Gigabyte 1070 GPU w/ original box. Would prefer to sell as a single lot than have to deal with parting it out, but that may not be possible. Again if this is the wrong place to ask, sorry. But thanks for any advice you can provide.
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Oct 17, 2023 02:19
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Action-Bastard posted:Hey sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but I'm looking to sell some used PC parts and I guess I need a vibe check on what my asking price should be... You have most of a full PC. If you want to sell it as a single lot, get a cheap case, ram, and SSD (used parts on eBay or Amazon Warehouse), get it up and running, add up the prices of those components using the "show only Sold listings" filter on eBay, and you should be able to sell the full package for a small premium over that total, to someone who doesn't have the wherewithal to build their own PC. I just did this recently and sold a PC on Facebook Marketplace to someone for $900 who "just wanted to play Counterstrike 2", and that was the end of that. ChocNitty posted:Thanks for the feedback. No problem, but you still didn't mention your GPU. I'll stress again that the AV1 streaming to Virtual Desktop is significantly sharper and smoother than HEVC. If you have like an RTX 3080, you could sell it for an open-box RTX 4070 from Best Buy or something, and break even on the price. On paper they both have the same frame performance, but the 40-series will have that AV1 encoding for VR, and on non-VR games you get the bonus of frame interpolation. It'll use a third less power on top of that. The developer of Virtual Desktop said: quote:[AV1] image quality is pretty amazing. I won’t spill all the beans and let you experience it for yourself Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Oct 17, 2023 |
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Oct 17, 2023 02:41
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I don't see anything wrong with this list. I would've commented on the cooler if you hadn't swapped it out (i missed your first post), but thankfully you did. Bought and put this together and very happy with the results, with the exception the Peerless Assassin CPU cooler fans are running at full RPM all the time. CPU temp is negligible (~24°), profile is "silent" in NZXT CAM and BIOS, curve is set correctly, it's set as PWM, and the sensor is obviously working, but it's as if the fan only has one setting - off, or full. Since I've seen it recommended a lot, has anyone else seen this, and know the fix? It's a nzxt n7 z790 mobo, and there's a splitter cable plugged into the CPU fan 4 pin slot slot, going to the two fans. The two fans are then also daisychained into a single ARGB port for the RGBs. Very grateful for any help!
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Oct 17, 2023 13:05
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I don't have one and this is going to be super generic and likely obvious, but you are running the latest BIOS and you have it set to air instead of liquid?
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Oct 17, 2023 14:47
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slidebite posted:I don't have one and this is going to be super generic and likely obvious, but you are running the latest BIOS and you have it set to air instead of liquid? Thanks, yeah, it's set to air. I'll check for BIOS updates, but I'm reluctant to do one if it's not a recognised issue.
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Oct 17, 2023 15:16
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OK I know that I just crapped on prebuilts and now I'm here asking about a recommendation, BUT the research lab that I'm part of has computing budget dedicated to trial-ing owning GPUs for model training rather than renting them, and it would be really easy for us to potentially save tons of money by using 4090s over L40s. We're not going to buy a $300k H100 box for this evaluation, but we're renting time on one. We're definitely purchasing some servers with some L40s and maaaybe L4s in them that'll get used by a research lab regardless of the trial outcome. Do any prebuilt vendors do a dual-GPU configuration? For this to be sane we'd want at least 2x4090 per desktop. It seems like with the death of SLI this has gotten way less common. CPU isn't a top priority for these boxes, but we're using the Intel MKL and other Intel libraries so it'd basically have to be Intel. I need to see if the workstation Xeons have AVX-512 support too, I cannot believe that Intel had AVX-512 there on 11th gen then ditched it on 12, 13th, and 14th.
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Oct 17, 2023 16:46
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Take a look at Puget Systems? One of their Xeon workstations seems like it would be a good fit for you.
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Oct 17, 2023 18:40
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Pretty sure Puget Systems can supply you with a good dual-GPU build based on one of their Xeon workstations, yeah. Just talk to them.
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Oct 17, 2023 18:50
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Action-Bastard posted:Hey sorry if this is the wrong place to ask but I'm looking to sell some used PC parts and I guess I need a vibe check on what my asking price should be... It may be hard to sell all of the parts at once without being in a case as a working system. You could probably get that going for ~$100 if you wanted to with a $50 case, $30 of RAM and a $20 SSD if you wanted to, though. You may get less selling it out part wise or get stuck with the H60 cooler and power supply and CPU as leftovers since they're less likely to be wanted used. The motherboard and GPU can be used with newer stuff. It's always good to check ebay sold auctions for this kind of stuff. Here's what I saw on a quick look, I didn't dig real far down. - MSI B450 Gaming Plus w/ original manual. ~$50-60. It can take the 5000 series CPUs with a BIOS update so it's held some value. - AMD Ryzen 3600, original box and CPU cooler. ~$80. - Corsair 500w bronze PSU (semi modular) w/ original box. ~$30-35. Used power supplies lose some value but 500 W bronze is $50 new. - Corsair H60 cpu cooler. - Prices vary from $24 with only intel mounting hardware to $45 with everything. - Gigabyte 1070 GPU w/ original box. ~$100, maybe a little less So, if you were able to sell them all at once I'd expect $280-320 although as stated it may be hard to get someone to want everything. A working PC you could try to get over 400 for, maybe 500 bucks but it'd be more time and investment in parts just to sell it.
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Oct 18, 2023 01:23
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I finally got surroundsound working on my Nintendo switch! A while ago, there was a discussion about surroundsound and modern technology, and it was discussed that an optical cable does not have enough bandwidth outside of DTS for 5.1. This explains why a device I bought that extracts audio from HDMI and send it out as optical was unable to fix my switch. The solution: send the HDMI cable from my switch directly into my receiver, and then have my receiver send the video to the TV. Now when I go into surroundsound in the switch settings, it actually fires on all 5.1 speakers during the test correctly  It’s interesting that everything coming from my computer and apple tv work fine with hdmi into tv and optical cable coming out of the TV and going into the receiver, but I guess everything else is using some sort of pre mixed and compressed DTS / atmos technology. I should probably just get a new receiver that actually supports arc spunkshui fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Oct 18, 2023 |
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Oct 18, 2023 02:15
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spunkshui posted:Few long shots, maybe the CAS LATENCY was wrong? Two bad sets in a row. I used memtest86 on each stick, in each slot in my motherboard. One stick passed in every one, the other failed in every one. This is why I buy from stores instead of online. Went back, swapped it at the counter, walked out.
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Oct 18, 2023 06:45
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What on earth is "Max Digital Data" and how do they have the cheapest hard disks of any given capacity? They're clearly not manufacturing hard disks, so where are they getting hard disks to slap their label on? Apparently SMART says they're new, and they are being sold as new. Not refurbished, not used, not reconditioned: https://www.amazon.com/MDD-MDD14TSATA25672E-256MB-Internal-Enterprise/dp/B0BYTVCWM9/ https://www.amazon.com/MDD-MDD22TSATA25672E-256MB-Internal-Enterprise/dp/B0CHXWDXSB/ $270 for a 22TB disk is pretty drat good. Does anyone have any clues about who they are and how they're undercutting the entire rest of the market? Amazon reviews look OK, they seem to be new disks. Professional shucking operation? Grey market arbitrage?
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Oct 19, 2023 21:24
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Twerk from Home posted:What on earth is "Max Digital Data" and how do they have the cheapest hard disks of any given capacity? They're clearly not manufacturing hard disks, so where are they getting hard disks to slap their label on? Apparently SMART says they're new, and they are being sold as new. Not refurbished, not used, not reconditioned: They're probably buying bulk white label/unbranded seagates and putting their own labels on them. The pictures look like a Seagate with a label over the top. Only Seagate, WD, and Toshiba manufacture hard drives so it's one of them and the pictures look like seagate. I'd imagine the main downside with them is that you're rolling the dice on this company existing in 5 years to honor the warranty. I've bought stuff from goHardDrive before (the seller of the 22TB on amazon) and when it was wrong they did replace it. Other goons have bought from them as well since they often put used drives they're checked up as refurbished on ebay or through other sales sites. I'd consider rolling the dice if I needed a bunch of them for zfs/raid with at least two parity drives and didn't mind shelling out for real replacements if they crap out down the line. I would not put anything on only a single disk, that will be a good way to lose everything on a single disk.
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Oct 19, 2023 22:34
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