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  Dad managed to jack up a spot on the dash, so I ended up having to spot in the base and clear the upper center portion of the dash. Headed to the paint booth on Friday.
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Oct 17, 2023 01:23
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Well, I briefly had the Chevelle running (ie, it ran for about five seconds), but when I went to start it again the next evening it cranked briefly and then made a loud bang/clang noise. I THINK this was the starter dying... I removed it and tried to give it direct power from the battery, and I couldn't get it to spin, and the solenoid would move the gear only sometimes. So, new starter on the way. I've checked over the engine, it seems fine (no bent valves, turns over with a wrench) but I have a new mystery: I found a sheared off/broken end of a stud or bolt under the front of the car, directly under the radiator but I can't figure out where it came from. I've removed the fan belt so nothing but the front pulley is even moving at the front of the engine. I've checked all the mounts and stuff that I could think of, and it all seems fine. The threads are 1/2"-13 from what I can tell, the nut is 11/16" across the flats. Anyone have any idea where that size fastner would be used on a 64 chevelle or a 402 chevrolet engine? It looks like it's been removed/partially rounded before, but I've never touched a fastener that size on this car.   
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Oct 17, 2023 05:10
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My money would be on exhaust manifold stud. heat cycling of heavy cast iron manifolds can make them curl up and pop the bolts/studs off.
Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Oct 17, 2023 |
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Oct 17, 2023 05:21
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Dunno about the 60's, but by the 70's chevy engines use 3/8-16 manifold studs (both bbc and sbc), unless someone drilled it out to a bigger size. Check the front accessory mounting points, those are usually a bit larger.
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Oct 17, 2023 12:27
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Thats weird, every 1/2"-13 nut and bolt I've ever seen has been 3/4" on the flats. But maybe thats an "old stuff" thing.
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Oct 17, 2023 14:41
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Powershift posted:My money would be on exhaust manifold stud. heat cycling of heavy cast iron manifolds can make them curl up and pop the bolts/studs off. This was my guess too.
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Oct 17, 2023 16:11
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Judging by how many times a wrench has been on it, I doubt it's a manifold bolt. I can't think of anything that size with a nut on the front end of that era.
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Oct 17, 2023 16:26
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EvilBeard posted:Judging by how many times a wrench has been on it, I doubt it's a manifold bolt. I can't think of anything that size with a nut on the front end of that era. I checked the manifold bolts, it's not one of them (they're also 9/16" across the hex, at least the one I checked). Not solving this mystery won't slow me down since I won't be driving the car around for quite awhile yet, but it is puzzling. It's either the end of a bolt or a stud, and most bolts wouldn't have the end exposed and I can't think of many things that would use a stud. Putting a caliper over the threads said it was something like .430" which is very close to 7/16", but I couldn't get my 7/16-14 thread die over it while the 1/2-13 seemed to thread on perfectly. I've been trying to find lists of hardware used on the chassis and engine to come at it from that direction but haven't seen much. It's POSSIBLE it's not even from that car and is from the car I had in there before which was a Fiero, but I don't think the fasteners on the Fiero were that corroded, and it would have been where the front of that car was and I can't think of anything at the front of the car that would have been that large. It could also be a prank from the wrenching gods just to gently caress with me, I have angered them by purchasing a car that doesn't have any 10mm hardware that I can lose the sockets for. 3/8" yes, maybe I can appease them...
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Oct 17, 2023 17:16
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Maybe the stud for alternator mount to tension fan belt?
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Oct 17, 2023 17:59
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I was going to go with bumper or front control arm.
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Oct 18, 2023 04:58
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I got a truck from my work to drive. It's my outside supernintendo's old truck (he got a new Tacoma). I was thinking of putting it up on craigslist (proceeds would go to the company), but gently caress that, free truck, and I can stop putting daily miles on my BRZ. 2014 F150, 285,000 miles, but runs great. About 6 months ago we started getting into the nickel and dime phase but we couldn't find a new truck in stock, so we ended up doing a few of those $500-$1000 repairs to keep it going until we could find a new truck. Once we did that it just kept chugging along and has been running pretty great since then. It's probably about 50% bigger than my 99 ranger (My son turns 16 tomorrow, so he's going to start learning to drive on that), so I'm still getting used to the size. It's 3x the size of my BRZ so there's no comparison there. So far I've: Replaced the steering wheel Deep cleaned the whole thing Replaced a couple of air conditioner vents Bought a tonneau cover for it on amazon day or whatever. I also purchased: a new jump seat (the old one didn't have storage on the back of the seat). Getting just the storage compartment was $250 on ebay, getting the jump seat was $260. Edit: installed. Neoprene seat covers from Cover king A head unit and new speakers from Crutchfield edit: installed. A backup camera. (this is going to be huge, you can't see poo poo out of the back because it's so tall. Edit: installed. It was a productive night. I didn’t do the speakers but I’ll probably work on them tomorrow. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Oct 19, 2023 |
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Oct 18, 2023 13:07
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Trial fitted the BBS CH wheels, and I'm not really sure which wheels to choose. The BBSes are cooler, but I think the Avus wheels fit the car better. 
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Oct 20, 2023 12:32
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My co-worker who's a bit of a VW/Audi/wagon nerd votes OEMs. I agree with him, but my opinion is pretty worthless.
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Oct 20, 2023 15:01
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BBS on one side, Avus on the other. Nobody ever sees both sides of the car at the same time.
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Oct 20, 2023 16:35
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Powershift posted:BBS on one side, Avus on the other. 
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Oct 20, 2023 18:20
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You jest but… 
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Oct 20, 2023 19:57
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Subaru clutch job required tools list: Exhaust and shields are off, may need to heat the crossmember bolts but I'm almost free of everything that might be particularly lovely. (except that galvanic corrosion that will undoubtedly have the two dowel pins welded to both the trans and motor) I have broken only one bolt. Because if I'm just easy with it I don't really need to torch this....SNAP. I was able to grab the end of it with vise grips and spin it out after heating it, but I don't have any M8 hardware with 12mm flats, so I'm going to have to put this heat shield back up with 3 12mms and a 13mm. I feel like a bad person, but let's be serious: this is this car's last clutch. From earlier today:  This looks exceptionally untouched and factory. You have to take those female connectors (reverse and neutral switches) off of that bracket or cut the zip tie to pull the trans and neither looks to have been touched. Most times I've seen those connectors broken off because they just have a little plastic nipple on the bottom of them to pop into that bracket. Either whoever was here before did a very good job or this is a 190,000 mile original clutch. Which is still working fine.....I'm actually going in here because the throw out bearing just got noisy. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 20, 2023 |
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Oct 20, 2023 21:05
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Both the Audi and the Bimmer deserve the OEMs
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Oct 20, 2023 21:21
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Motronic posted:I don't have any M8 hardware with 12mm flats, so I'm going to have to put this heat shield back up with 3 12mms and a 13mm. I feel like a bad person It's a heat shield with mismatched hardware. Heaven forbid
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Oct 20, 2023 23:45
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I I think I posted a pic of it in here years ago but I had a rattling heat shield on my Corolla. Got underneath it and took the nut off a stud it was hosed up somehow and I can't remember exactly what was wrong with it. I think I tried to weld a washer to it because of reasons lost to time. Well that didn't work and there were no more m6 nuts in the shop and I scoured the fuckin poo poo out of it. Eventually remembered I had some 5/8" round aluminum bar so I cut a section of that, drilled as close through the middle as I could, tapped it to m6 1.0 and even ground a couple flats on it. It's been several years and that bitch ain't started rattling again
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Oct 21, 2023 01:11
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Suburban Dad posted:It's a heat shield with mismatched hardware. Heaven forbid Yeah, yeah, I know it's ridiculous but I feel like a need a stock of JIS hardware for this thing and the toyota just to make me feel better. I'm done for the day. Got close to being ready to pull the trans, but I spent way too long trying to take the sway bar end links off nicely. Then I gave it the 'ol "can't be stuck if it's a liquid" and now there's grease all over the floor from cooking out of the joints and I'm gonna kick some oil dry on it and call it a day. NAPA should have a new set waiting for me tomorrow afternoon.  I'll get back to this again tomorrow.
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Oct 21, 2023 01:56
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That must have smelled nice.
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Oct 21, 2023 02:04
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   Got it in the booth this evening. Masked it off, and got the roof and trunk lid done. Wrap the roof tomorrow and start working on the sides. Should be done by noon.
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Oct 21, 2023 02:09
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Far be it for me to tell a more experienced wrencher how to live their life, but do people really bother trying to save swaybar end links? I tried once, failed and just decided that from now on they're disposable.
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Oct 21, 2023 02:11
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Far be it for me to tell a more experienced wrencher how to live their life, but do people really bother trying to save swaybar end links? I tried once, failed and just decided that from now on they're disposable. I mean, these are the "nice" double jointed type that are $30-ish bucks a piece for good quality ones so yeah, I'll give it a try when they are in very good shape. Unfortunately these didn't have any wench flats or an allen socket on the stud so I was futzing with pressure/prying to unbolt them off without breaking the boots. When I finally did rip a boot the torch got lit. The typical cheap-o style you find on fords and chevys.....yeah, they were made to be taken off with an angle grinder. E: Also, you're 100% correct and I should have just cut them off to begin with. Hindsight is 20/20 and all.... Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 02:17
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Far be it for me to tell a more experienced wrencher how to live their life, but do people really bother trying to save swaybar end links? I tried once, failed and just decided that from now on they're disposable. Over here suspension parts end up looking like they've been in the bottom of the ocean. I've been buying the Moog sway bar end links that have flats on the stud just in case things have to come apart again. The factory method of "just put a hex key in it and loosen the nut!" just doesn't work. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 02:33
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Over here suspension parts end up looking like they've been in the bottom of the ocean. That is the same here. And I'm getting the NAPA Chassis Parts blah blah replacement which are in fact Moog and have wrench flats.
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Oct 21, 2023 02:36
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:The factory method of "just put a hex key in it and loosen the nut!" just doesn't work. Oh boy do I hate this. Can't agree more.
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Oct 21, 2023 04:16
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   Got to the shop this morning, sprayed the white (had to scuff and respray the trunk lid, it had some sharpie on the primer that bled through the sealer and base). Put 4 coats of white down, baked it while we went to lunch, and then masked the white off. Put 5 coats of red on it, then 3 coats of clear. set it to bake and came home. We'll load it up and bring it home in the morning. then it'll sit to fully cure for about a week before reassembly can start. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 23:24
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EvilBeard posted:
Looks great!
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Oct 21, 2023 23:31
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I actually also worked on car today. I reinstalled my battery jumper cable hookup, and this time I even ran the ground thru the current sensor so the truck will recognize the load. I didn't even know that was a thing until I watched a YouTube. It also led me to a better grounding point so I'm pretty sure it's going to last this time. I also coated the Anderson connector in some dialectic grease so it can get nice and dirty yet protected. Then a quick engine and car wash and tidied up the garage marginally.
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Oct 21, 2023 23:33
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Waxed the autocross MX-5 to get it ready for winter storage (it has a brand new OEM hardtop that I don’t want to ruin). I’m amazed at how well it cleaned up for being 16 years old and having about 140k miles. This was just a hand wax and buff with a microfiber towel.    
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Oct 22, 2023 15:16
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I've been climbing over the center console to reach the driver's seat. When I received the car, the drivers door could only open a few inches before touching and starting to bend the fender. Tried inflating a ball or tool from the inside to push the fender out but the issue was I can't get that pushing pressure on the very edge of the fender. Was just about to say 'fuckit the fender needs replacement anyways' and just force the door open when I tried a combination of cloth covered screwdriver and trim tool to pull it from the outside. Fender has a very minor wave in the area but is 95% fine and I should be able to start using the car more regularly  Before: 
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Oct 22, 2023 15:25
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Pop your hood and check the bolts on the top of the fender. See if there’s signs that the fender has been pushed back or removed and reinstalled improperly. Like tool marks in the paint on the bolt or marks in the paint under the washer. You can also try loosening them and prying from the back of the fender to slide it forward. The panel gap at the top of the door looks a lot tighter than GM ever built anything with.
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Oct 22, 2023 17:30
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That was one of the first things I tried. There were no tool marks before I added them. I also couldn't take the fender off because you need to open the door to access two or three bolts
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Oct 22, 2023 17:33
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 Got it unmasked, trunk and hood on, and back home in the garage. Found a small run by a headlight I'll have to sand and buff, but it's pretty clean. Just a few small nibs.
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Oct 22, 2023 18:41
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I had an old car that had interference between the door and fender. I'm pretty sure it was from sagging door hinges. I pried many times with a large screwdriver and it got pretty mangled in the process. Ah college days.
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Oct 22, 2023 20:01
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after my brother crashed his previous car, but was still driving it, it had a similar interference. i used a flat pry bar with a piece of cardboard protecting the leading edge of the door to pop the lip out a bit so the door could open. the fender still looked bent, but since it was otherwise kinda crashed we were just trying to get it sorta functional without making it way worse.
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Oct 22, 2023 20:45
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 Cleaned, clay barred, and waxed my "new" car. I did this a week ago but in hot, direct sunlight and the wax cooked, so I tried again today. Though there's still a lot of room for improvement, it at least looks bearable at ten feet and I'm reasonably confident I put on a layer of wax that'll protect the already aged paint for the near future.
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Oct 23, 2023 02:39
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| # ? May 27, 2024 10:35 |
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Story in 3 pictures Little block:  no blobk:  b1gm blokc: 
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Oct 24, 2023 02:11
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