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SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005

I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!

Fallen Rib

DoombatINC posted:

If this is purely going to be a gaming system then I'd just go with the venerable 7800X3D

It will be purely gaming, I don't use it for anything else. I had the money so thought the extra cores might be nice because I will stream video in Discord while doing other stuff. The 7800x3D was initially the direction I was leaning.

I'm not the kind of person who can typically afford to ball out on a computer so I was thinking "Just get the top end of whatever's out there". More so than anything I was looking for a motherboard suggestion.

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

SalTheBard posted:

I'm going to build my dream PC at the end of November. I'm deciding between the 7900x3d / 7800x3d.
PC Building megathread: Just get the 7800X3D

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Aphex- posted:

I'm looking at getting a couple of WD SN850x M.2 drives for my new build. I haven't used M.2 drives before and there seems to be an option to buy it with or without a heatsink. If I will be using it mainly for games and hobby grade occasional video editing (4k files), do I need to get one with a heatsink?

No unless it's for a PS5. 90% of the time your drive will be fine

(Fun fact, the included heatsink on my Gigabyte MOBO actually seems to increase temps rather than the opposite)

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Perhaps a dumb question, but if I put together a gaming PC for my GF, could it also pull double duty as the house NAS if the accessible drives are kept wholly separate from the Windows OS and games/anything run locally?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

change my name posted:

Perhaps a dumb question, but if I put together a gaming PC for my GF, could it also pull double duty as the house NAS if the accessible drives are kept wholly separate from the Windows OS and games/anything run locally?

That would probably be a pretty bad idea.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

Wibla posted:

That would probably be a pretty bad idea.

I disagree, we did a Plex + Cloud Gaming server like that and it's been fine. OS + Games on SSD, movies on HDDs. Use JBOD, no raid. Set the SSD for daily backup to one or multiple of the HDD. Backblaze charges a flat rate to back up the whole PC regardless of how many drives you cram in it, or just use Usenet.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

change my name posted:

No unless it's for a PS5. 90% of the time your drive will be fine

(Fun fact, the included heatsink on my Gigabyte MOBO actually seems to increase temps rather than the opposite)

Awesome, that's good to know. Thank you!

DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


Thanks for the Newegg tips. I live fairly close to a Micro Center (about an hour drive to Paterson, NJ). Sounds like it'll be well worth it to check their selection when I do start finalizing a build.

I got a decent amount of my 2015 buld parts from one of two local Micro Centers when I lived near Atlanta. I worked near the Marietta one and lived near the Duluth one. :psyduck:

gariig
Dec 31, 2004
Beaten into submission by my fiance
Pillbug

change my name posted:

Perhaps a dumb question, but if I put together a gaming PC for my GF, could it also pull double duty as the house NAS if the accessible drives are kept wholly separate from the Windows OS and games/anything run locally?

Possibly? I think the biggest hurdle you have is when the "nas" needs a little care and feeding and your GF wants to use the computer. Who wins? Not saying it can't work (Zero VGS is an example) but just need to understand you might have a broken NAS while your GF plays some video games. Worst case nothing says you can't use the gaming PC and then buy another machine to pull NAS duty, which outside of Plex transcoding doesn't take much horsepower.

DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


change my name posted:

Perhaps a dumb question, but if I put together a gaming PC for my GF, could it also pull double duty as the house NAS if the accessible drives are kept wholly separate from the Windows OS and games/anything run locally?

Personally I wouldn't do this. Make a PC for your GF and have it be only that.

Shannow
Aug 30, 2003

Frumious Bandersnatch
Speccing a machine for my buddy's GF as a combined graduation/xmas thing, he wants it to be all in white as much as feasible with RGB, decent but not bleeding edge gaming performance, with a bit of room for expansion/upgrade maybe down the line, plus doing some Actual Work (not aware of any specific applications they use to asses better compatibility with a cpu), have i done hosed up anywhere? (UK based)
This is about as far as the budget can go, i believe peripherals like mouse/kb/monitor etc are not required.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (£229.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H100i ELITE CAPELLIX XT 65.57 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£146.44 @ Amazon UK)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste (£12.98 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard (£209.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory (£128.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (£135.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 2X OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card (£305.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair iCUE 4000X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case (£99.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£115.00 @ Computer Orbit)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit (£116.99 @ MoreCoCo)
Total: £1501.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-31 15:51 GMT+0000

i did look at 3070/3070ti cards but they still seem pricier than the 4060 i found, most of everything else was just a pain to get in white.

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





That's a lot of bucks to spend on cooling not a lot of CPU - if you get a dual tower 120mm cooler in white with RGB puke (like this Peerless Assassin) you could shave a hundo off the cost and put that money towards more GPU oomph like a 3060 Ti or 4060 Ti. You also shouldn't need to buy thermal compound for the installation, most coolers come with a decent paste these days.

edit: and don't forget to buy Windows from one of our sellers in SA-Mart, that'll save you another hundo

Shannow
Aug 30, 2003

Frumious Bandersnatch

DoombatINC posted:

That's a lot of bucks to spend on cooling not a lot of CPU - if you get a dual tower 120mm cooler in white with RGB puke (like this Peerless Assassin) you could shave a hundo off the cost and put that money towards more GPU oomph like a 3060 Ti or 4060 Ti. You also shouldn't need to buy thermal compound for the installation, most coolers come with a decent paste these days.

edit: and don't forget to buy Windows from one of our sellers in SA-Mart, that'll save you another hundo


My main thought was acoustics for going with the slightly overkill cooling, also unsure how well non-corsair parts play with their lighting software, but could certainly readjust that for a better gpu. I neglected to remove windows from that list as the recipient should be covered for windows already due to university, so im informed. Extra thermal paste is more for my piece of mind when I inevitably get drafted in to help put this together and the preapplied stuff gets smeared by accident.
And thank you.

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!

DoombatINC posted:

edit: and don't forget to buy Windows from one of our sellers in SA-Mart, that'll save you another hundo

So since this is probably a bit more appropriate here than in a sales thread: I did not know about this, and it rules and it looks like the sellers rule, but if you're doing a completely fresh Windows install after nine years, how does this work exactly? They just email out codes, right? No physical disks? So if I'm putting together a new PC and don't have install disks on hand, how does one go about doing an initial install?

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

SpaceDrake posted:

So since this is probably a bit more appropriate here than in a sales thread: I did not know about this, and it rules and it looks like the sellers rule, but if you're doing a completely fresh Windows install after nine years, how does this work exactly? They just email out codes, right? No physical disks? So if I'm putting together a new PC and don't have install disks on hand, how does one go about doing an initial install?

Microsoft has tools to make a bootable usb drive on their website.

It’s incredibly easy.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

SpaceDrake posted:

So since this is probably a bit more appropriate here than in a sales thread: I did not know about this, and it rules and it looks like the sellers rule, but if you're doing a completely fresh Windows install after nine years, how does this work exactly? They just email out codes, right? No physical disks? So if I'm putting together a new PC and don't have install disks on hand, how does one go about doing an initial install?

https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11

What you want is "Create Windows 11 Installation Media"

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!
Well that's incredibly handy. Thank you all!

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

SpaceDrake posted:

So since this is probably a bit more appropriate here than in a sales thread: I did not know about this, and it rules and it looks like the sellers rule, but if you're doing a completely fresh Windows install after nine years, how does this work exactly? They just email out codes, right? No physical disks? So if I'm putting together a new PC and don't have install disks on hand, how does one go about doing an initial install?

Those codes, to my knowledge, are probably "OEM" flagged codes which are cheap, but not transferable to another PC after you use it. If you want a code your can transfer from machine to machine as you upgrade, you would need to either spend hours on the phone swearing to Microsoft that it is the same hardware to get a "pity code" (hard before, impossible the last time i tried), buy another cheap code from them each time you change motherboard/drive at random, or you would need to buy a "Full Packaged Product (FPP)" copy from a value-added reseller like Insight or SHI, which are like $150 but I've used one from Windows 10-11 over a decade and 6 machines. Probably those codes are the cheapest/easiest bet, but be aware.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11

What you want is "Create Windows 11 Installation Media"

Also worth noting, after you download the ISO using that tool, you can load it up with "Rufus" https://rufus.ie/en/ , which will create a USB drive in the same way, but also give you checkboxes when creating the USB drive to bypass all Windows 11 installation checks (like modern TPM, minimum RAM), and also not being forced to make a Microsoft account when you log in for the first time, which is especially nice.

Clyde Radcliffe
Oct 19, 2014

power crystals posted:

I've seen both "doesn't post at all" and "posts but in a very limited performance mode", but your board supports flashing the BIOS without a CPU working (check the manual, but basically just put the bios file on a blank flash drive and press a button on the rear panel when you power it on). So even if it totally fails to post you can still get it up to date. Note that that thing can sometimes be picky about the specific model of flash drive so you may want to have a couple handy in case it decides it doesn't like the first one.

That said if you're buying that new it probably comes with a new enough BIOS out of the box. It'd have to be like 18 months old by now to not support that CPU.

Thanks for this. The mobo arrived and it looks like it supports the AMD CPU out of the box, but I grabbed the latest BIOS and stuck it on a SanDisk flash drive, which I figured would be the most generically supported manufacturer. Like you said it has a Flash BIOS button on the board - I had no idea that was a thing!

Not directed to you, but I've seen some PCPartPicker builds posted here with 750W+ PSUs. I was planning to keep my Corsair 550W PSU to power my AMD Ryzen7/GTX 4070 build with an SSD, 4TB HDD and a few external peripherals, mainly because I have a really neat cable setup and hate the idea of ripping it out.

Should I be looking for a higher-wattage PSU?

Helter Skelter
Feb 10, 2004

BEARD OF HAVOC

Shannow posted:

My main thought was acoustics for going with the slightly overkill cooling, also unsure how well non-corsair parts play with their lighting software, but could certainly readjust that for a better GPU.

I have no input on the RGB side of things but I will suggest you switch the case to an airflow focused one like the 4000D (if you want to keep to Corsair).

Better airflow means better cooling, which means fans don't have to run as fast, which means quieter system.

BrainDance
May 8, 2007

Disco all night long!

I'm helping a friend with a build. He's the type that does not upgrade often and wants to build something very good because he deserves it and his new job pays well, and his life is stressful with a new kid and stuff so he deserves a loving 4090.

He is using it almost entirely for gaming. He wanted "a lot of storage" but when I said "well, we start with a 4tb drive, more than that gets pretty expensive for an SSD" he said "Does anyone really need that much?" so he and I have very different ideas of "a lot of storage."
One problem is that we are in China, so prices are not the same. He has a budget of 30,000RMB (about $4,000 USD)

He already has a monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc you know all that stuff.

Here was the first build plan, it was intentionally kinda "here's the best I'm thinking that might be close with that budget"

quote:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QwhLcH

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($369.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X670E Taichi EATX AM5 Motherboard ($485.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($279.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($2174.98 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL ATX Full Tower Case ($204.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $3924.83

7800X3D because, I've seen the benchmarks and this is a gaming machine, I've seen how the 5800X3D is still holding up, it just seems like the perfect CPU here.
The 4090 was originally a placeholder, like a "well, if you can get it, my 4090 has served me very well" (The Asus TUF OC is also a sorta placeholder, because that's the one I have, and it's been very good to me) But it feels absurd, the GPU is 50% of the whole build...

I went with the X670E mobo because, first, this was the cut no corners build. But maybe he doesn't need that? For me I do weird poo poo and need a lot of SATA ports. But one thing I also thought, I had heard about AM5 and DDR5, memory controllers having trouble with very fast ram, right? So, are you going to have more luck there with X670 than B650? I'm open to other motherboards, I went with the Asrock because I like the idea of Asrock, I'm glad I live in a world where they exist, and I've actually really liked my x570 taichi and the Internet made it sound good.

The RAM is overkill, and that was what I thought right away "we can cut this down to 32", but I did think he's probably not upgrading for a long time. And maybe, what if he wanted to get into AI stuff? I do a ton of it, and he's been kinda interested in some stuff (he just doesn't have the GPU for it, right now he has a laptop with a 970) And, having a lot of normal RAM can help for very large models. If he wanted to upgrade to 128 it's just buy 2 more 32GB sticks. If he had 2 16gb sticks, he'd have to replace them and buy 4 32GB sticks. This ram also everyone seems to think is really good?

SSD, just starting with that 4tb drive. It's a samsung drive, there didn't seem to be a significant difference in price between all the other 4tb m.2 ssds out there to matter.

PSU I dont have much of an opinion on. I usually use Asus PSUs, they've never failed me, but we were getting kinda close to the budget.


So, first question. Does this build make sense? Obviously it's a lot, but he's looking to spend a lot and have something great for gaming for quite a while hopefully, no matter what he wants to play. Are there any glaring problems with it besides "That's a lot of money for a computer"? (It is, but, thats just how it seems to be if you want a 4090 I dunno) It still makes sense though, right? I made some other builds that were more reasonable, and we thought we could figure out a final build from there, but the more we talked the more he decided he really wants the 4090 and the 7800x3d.

Regardless we are going to have to make some compromises, because even though it's within the budget in dollars, you go to buy that stuff in China and:




We are 5000RMB over budget

Is it maybe possible to get a cheaper 4090, compromise on a few other things and maybe get close enough that it's doable?

Obviously drop the ram down to 32gb, maybe there's a good but more budget friendly (as weird as that feels to say when trying to make a build with a 4090 and a 7800x3d) motherboard out there, the x670e taichi is pretty expensive. Maybe there's a cheaper case too that can chop off a bit? I dunno, is there a way to make this work? And if not, what do we compromise on/change to get the best we can out of his budget?

I think we can do it with just a different brand GPU. I paid 15,000rmb-ish for mine on launch I think. And that one there is 20,000 for some reason. So, I did a quick check of Jingdong, there are cheaper ones. But, which one? Which cheaper 4090 is a good option?

Edit: I also thought, this PSU is fine though, right? With my 1000W PSU, I knew the least about that.

BrainDance fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Nov 1, 2023

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



Made a few adjustments, but I have no idea if these will translate to the necessary savings you're needing in RMB.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($364.56 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($138.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X670E TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($279.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X SLIM GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($1699.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMe (2023) 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $3113.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-01 05:45 EDT-0400

Reasoning for changes are 32GB of RAM is the "sweet spot" now and 64GB really is way overkill. Picked a cheaper X670E board that, iirc, is still considered to be good. Swapped to a liquid cooler due to Ryzen 7000s tendency to run at its thermal limit all the time. Reduced cost 4090 in USD. Cheaper case that is just as good at the one you had selected. PSU swapped to what I personally feel is a more reliable PSU brand with higher wattage (assuming 1.5x system power draw is still the recommended way to determine PSU size). Hopefully this can get you closer to your target in RMB.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Zero VGS posted:

Also worth noting, after you download the ISO using that tool, you can load it up with "Rufus" https://rufus.ie/en/ , which will create a USB drive in the same way, but also give you checkboxes when creating the USB drive to bypass all Windows 11 installation checks (like modern TPM, minimum RAM), and also not being forced to make a Microsoft account when you log in for the first time, which is especially nice.
Oh, that's kinda neat.

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!

Zero VGS posted:

Those codes, to my knowledge, are probably "OEM" flagged codes which are cheap, but not transferable to another PC after you use it. If you want a code your can transfer from machine to machine as you upgrade, you would need to either spend hours on the phone swearing to Microsoft that it is the same hardware to get a "pity code" (hard before, impossible the last time i tried), buy another cheap code from them each time you change motherboard/drive at random, or you would need to buy a "Full Packaged Product (FPP)" copy from a value-added reseller like Insight or SHI, which are like $150 but I've used one from Windows 10-11 over a decade and 6 machines. Probably those codes are the cheapest/easiest bet, but be aware.

Oh sure, this fits my use profile perfectly. I'm only interested in doing a single install, so those codes will be exactly what I need.

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr

Clyde Radcliffe posted:

Not directed to you, but I've seen some PCPartPicker builds posted here with 750W+ PSUs. I was planning to keep my Corsair 550W PSU to power my AMD Ryzen7/GTX 4070 build with an SSD, 4TB HDD and a few external peripherals, mainly because I have a really neat cable setup and hate the idea of ripping it out.

Should I be looking for a higher-wattage PSU?

How old is your current PSU? If its more than 3-4 years old, consider replacing it anyway. They have a limited lifetime and they're the most important part of your build.

Clyde Radcliffe
Oct 19, 2014

Rawrbomb posted:

How old is your current PSU? If its more than 3-4 years old, consider replacing it anyway. They have a limited lifetime and they're the most important part of your build.

Thanks, my current PSU is around 5-6 years old and never been heavily stressed but I decided to err on the side of caution and order a 750W-rated modular model from the same manufacturer.

It's been years since I last opened my PC so I can't remember if its current PSU is modular, but hopefully it is and I can drop in a replacement without ripping out all the cable management.

Helter Skelter
Feb 10, 2004

BEARD OF HAVOC

Clyde Radcliffe posted:

It's been years since I last opened my PC so I can't remember if its current PSU is modular, but hopefully it is and I can drop in a replacement without ripping out all the cable management.

Never assume that modular cables will be compatible between models, even from the same manufacturer. There are no standards here and that is a recipe for fried components.

Clyde Radcliffe
Oct 19, 2014

Helter Skelter posted:

Never assume that modular cables will be compatible between models, even from the same manufacturer. There are no standards here and that is a recipe for fried components.

lol FML for delving into the modern PC building world and assuming things had gotten better

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Clyde Radcliffe posted:

lol FML for delving into the modern PC building world and assuming things had gotten better

They have, massively, in many different ways. This is just one area you don't gently caress around with. Handily, Corsair have detailed PSU cable compatibility charts so you can see if you need to swap the cables or not:

https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025611351-PSU-Cable-Compatibility

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/s/psu-cable-compatibility

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!
And also, PCPartPicker will tell you if you're missing any power cables you need.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Rawrbomb posted:

How old is your current PSU? If its more than 3-4 years old, consider replacing it anyway. They have a limited lifetime and they're the most important part of your build.

I’m going to recommend against this, unless you have like a really poo poo PSU.

Most of the quality units have a 10 year warranty, which means the manufacturer doesn’t expect it to fail in under 10 years. You’re literally just throwing away money because most quality power supplies last two or even three builds.

The only reason I have ever replaced a power supply early is because I didn’t want to use 650 W on an overclocked computer with a 3080 TI and like 1000 addressable LEDs.

The old PSU is still working fine in a different rig. It’s probably at least 15 years old at this point but it’s job is to make power and it still does that.

This is especially true if you have a Best Buy nearby where you can just swing on down and grab a new power supply on the off chance that the old one doesn’t wanna wake up one morning.

Basically, if you’re still under warranty, no reason to swap out the PSU.

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Am I going crazy or did PSU prices jump quite a bit in the last year. I paid $99 for an EVGA Supernova 750 GM last July and now it's back up to $135

change my name fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Nov 2, 2023

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
A couple weeks ago a poster made a post implying they applied thermal paste somewhere strange. Did we ever learn where it ended up?

change my name posted:

Am I going crazy or did PSU prices jump quite a bit in the last year. I paid EVGA Supernova 750 GM last July and now it's back up to $135

That’s the impression I’ve gotten occasionally checking for deals.

Teriyaki Koinku
Nov 25, 2008

Bread! Bread! Bread!

Bread! BREAD! BREAD!
Quick question: planning on buying an SSD dedicated for games storage. Should I go for 2 TB or 4? I find 1 TB cramped, so definitely at least 2 TB, but not sure if 4 TB would be overkill.

Away all Goats
Jul 5, 2005

Goose's rebellion

Teriyaki Koinku posted:

Quick question: planning on buying an SSD dedicated for games storage. Should I go for 2 TB or 4? I find 1 TB cramped, so definitely at least 2 TB, but not sure if 4 TB would be overkill.

If you got the budget for it I would get the 4TB. There's no reason to think videogame install sizes are going to ever start shrinking.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Teriyaki Koinku posted:

Quick question: planning on buying an SSD dedicated for games storage. Should I go for 2 TB or 4? I find 1 TB cramped, so definitely at least 2 TB, but not sure if 4 TB would be overkill.

I think 2TB drives are the better value generally, $/GB wise. It’s up to you if the cost is worth it though.

I’ve had a fine enough time keeping most of my games on an HDD, and shuffling the ones with long load times over as needed. Just for another option.

Kris xK
Apr 23, 2010
Sadly my PC died on me, and I'm left with a choice. Scavenge what I can from her (32gb DDR 3200 ram, gtx1080 with 8gb) and buy an AM4 mobo with a 5600 and PSU to hopefully get up and running. Or just scrap the whole drat thing and go up to an AM5 when Im able to in a few months?

I do not have access to a microcenter.

BrainDance
May 8, 2007

Disco all night long!

Branch Nvidian posted:

Made a few adjustments, but I have no idea if these will translate to the necessary savings you're needing in RMB.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($364.56 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($138.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X670E TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($279.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X SLIM GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($1699.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMe (2023) 1200 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $3113.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-11-01 05:45 EDT-0400

Reasoning for changes are 32GB of RAM is the "sweet spot" now and 64GB really is way overkill. Picked a cheaper X670E board that, iirc, is still considered to be good. Swapped to a liquid cooler due to Ryzen 7000s tendency to run at its thermal limit all the time. Reduced cost 4090 in USD. Cheaper case that is just as good at the one you had selected. PSU swapped to what I personally feel is a more reliable PSU brand with higher wattage (assuming 1.5x system power draw is still the recommended way to determine PSU size). Hopefully this can get you closer to your target in RMB.

Amazing! Thanks, it looks like this is gonna work even in China. Everythings available and not too much more here.

He's totally pumped about it, but for some reason I'm totally pumped about it now, too.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

BrainDance posted:

Amazing! Thanks, it looks like this is gonna work even in China. Everythings available and not too much more here.

He's totally pumped about it, but for some reason I'm totally pumped about it now, too.

You'll have to act soon, they're banning exports of the 4090 to China so they may be more difficult to find as time goes on

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Teriyaki Koinku
Nov 25, 2008

Bread! Bread! Bread!

Bread! BREAD! BREAD!

Shipon posted:

You'll have to act soon, they're banning exports of the 4090 to China so they may be more difficult to find as time goes on

Not exactly. There was a clarification made to specify that 4090s would be banned for export to Chinese businesses/production lines but not consumer end-users. There were a brief few days where all of the 4090 + 4090 pre-built inventory went completely out of stock or otherwise astronomically priced (think 50k rmb per card). They've slowly come back for the big 11.11 sale, but they're still massively upmarked at like 18k-20k upwards of 30k RMB.

As a disclaimer, I'm currently living in China and was planning to buy a new pre-built 4090 PC but now have to settle for a 4080 build since 4090 prices skyrocketed.

Teriyaki Koinku fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Nov 2, 2023

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