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Had a bit of a slump, decided to get out of it by painting some stuff quite different from what I'd normally paint; So vehicles, some novelty figures and my first attempt at a bust. Vehicles (we're going to pretend the cyber-van has both wing mirrors, I dropped the drat thing while painting and lost the mirror in the carpet somewhere;    Halloween demon. Theres no way of getting a decent picture of its face without tipping it back about 45 degrees;  Cutethulu;  Dwarf Bust;  I'm reasonably pleased with the bust. Kind of feel I should have pushed the highlights on the skin a little more, but I'll print and paint another bust at some stage, because I didnt hate painting this.
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Oct 29, 2023 16:35
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mech time   
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Oct 29, 2023 16:59
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Nebalebadingdong posted:mech time Are those bases sculpted at all, or is that just paint? It looks great.
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Oct 29, 2023 20:00
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its just paint. sand dune bases are tricky, but once i really get it down i want to make a guide. just like with flagstone, its faster to just paint the base that way than to sculpt one, and a flat base is much more secure than a 3d one
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Oct 29, 2023 20:16
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I've been using a basic airbrush for priming and basecoats for a while now and I want to take the next step. What's a decent airbrush I can get in the UK for ~£100? Not sure it's worth me diving into the top range stuff at my amateur level. Or is it better getting a couple of cheaper ones? I don't really need a new compressor I don't think.
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Oct 29, 2023 20:29
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Nebalebadingdong posted:its just paint. sand dune bases are tricky, but once i really get it down i want to make a guide. just like with flagstone, its faster to just paint the base that way than to sculpt one, and a flat base is much more secure than a 3d one It looks very good, quite striking. Painting down the edge a little really seems to pump up the 3D illusion.
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Oct 29, 2023 21:06
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Miles O'Brian posted:I've been using a basic airbrush for priming and basecoats for a while now and I want to take the next step. What's a decent airbrush I can get in the UK for ~£100? Not sure it's worth me diving into the top range stuff at my amateur level. Or is it better getting a couple of cheaper ones? a cheapo one with a different needle size will probably be better if you're pretty happy with your current one.
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Oct 29, 2023 23:39
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Miles O'Brian posted:I've been using a basic airbrush for priming and basecoats for a while now and I want to take the next step. What's a decent airbrush I can get in the UK for ~£100? Not sure it's worth me diving into the top range stuff at my amateur level. Or is it better getting a couple of cheaper ones? If your compressor has a tank you're golden. If it doesn't a cheap tanked compressor is £80 and will be the biggest effective upgrade. If you want a brush get an Iwata Eclipse. They're slightly above 100 but represent a significant improvement in build quality and you will notice the difference if all you're using now is a cheapo Chinese brush. Whether or not you upgrade past that is probably a question only you can answer.
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Oct 30, 2023 00:45
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Miles O'Brian posted:What's a decent airbrush I can get in the UK for ~£100? Harder & Steenbeck Ultra will set you back 65 quid, and if you want something a bit better, a H&S Evolution will run you 130 at Element Games. Both very solid options. I use an evolution and an infinity, having upgraded from an Iwata. The maintenance and cleaning is much simpler and is much better built. Best of luck!
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Oct 30, 2023 00:49
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Did Big Mr. Grumpy (Finally) cut together a short video of how I painted this guy: https://youtu.be/Art3w9gPF30?si=76Jt6vwBRKlVdq0H
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Oct 30, 2023 02:15
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Nebalebadingdong posted:mech time Best time!
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Oct 30, 2023 15:42
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Had a monster mash / orktober event at my LGS last week and went in this mad direction for my entry. My varnish somehow managed to fog up unit 01 and not be thick enough to protect from the solvent I used on the decal. Ended up glazing contrast paint over it and it turned out ok 
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Oct 30, 2023 15:57
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 Took my boy to comicon, ended up grabbing this myself (wtf they're so cheap? 20 bucks cdn for this). Any tips for someone coming from mostly GW kits?
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Oct 30, 2023 16:25
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Harvey Mantaco posted:
You can get great results with just a matte topcoat. If you want to paint it then subassemblies are great because the kit is already color separated for the most part. Airbrushing is super helpful. This is all if you want to emulate box art or gunpla style but there's no law you can't paint grimdark or whatever. Be careful with enamel weathering products as it can impact the plastic in the joints.
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Oct 30, 2023 16:38
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Paragon8 posted:Be careful with enamel weathering products as it can impact the plastic in the joints. That's really good to know, wouldn't have thought of that - thanks!
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Oct 30, 2023 16:46
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You're going to feel very disappointed in the quality of every gaming model compared to a rinky dink $20 kit once you put it together and realize it's so much more complex and easier to put together than anything you're used to.
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Oct 30, 2023 17:13
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Your fingers will hate you after push fitting everything together.
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Oct 30, 2023 17:59
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Spanish Manlove posted:You're going to feel very disappointed in the quality of every gaming model compared to a rinky dink $20 kit once you put it together and realize it's so much more complex and easier to put together than anything you're used to. I couldn't possibly be more disappointed in gw as a company but I'm always up for a challenge.
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Oct 30, 2023 18:00
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I couldn't possibly be more disappointed in gw as a company but I'm always up for a challenge. I couldn't believe it when I first encountered a multicolor piece that was made that way thanks to some magical injection molding
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Oct 30, 2023 18:10
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Spanish Manlove posted:You're going to feel very disappointed in the quality of every gaming model compared to a rinky dink $20 kit once you put it together and realize it's so much more complex and easier to put together than anything you're used to. This, honestly. The closest I've come to building gundam kits (just got my gundam rose) is shatterpoint minis. Not trying to be a shill, but I've noticed the quality there is the best I've seen for minis compared to GW stuff. For gundams, the only reason you even need all the filing and clipping tools is to make the nubs as invisible as possible. You rarely ever have to worry about mold lines or gaps. Cease to Hope posted:Shatterpoint stuff Great points, and I think I'll try to respond to some of them in a more appropriate thread like the star wars other games one: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3658006&pagenumber=132#lastpost
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Oct 30, 2023 18:23
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Gunpla is a different beast because the majority of parts are flat primitives and you usually paint in subassemblies and you're less concerned with painting light and shadows because the models are poseable. GW miniatures have a lot more small details on the models themselves with a lot of nooks and crannies designed to be easy to drybrush/edge highlight as well as take washes well.
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Oct 30, 2023 20:28
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Eej posted:Gunpla is a different beast because the majority of parts are flat primitives and you usually paint in subassemblies and you're less concerned with painting light and shadows because the models are poseable. GW miniatures have a lot more small details on the models themselves with a lot of nooks and crannies designed to be easy to drybrush/edge highlight as well as take washes well. Is it common for people to freeze the models in place with glue on the joints and then paint them up in a scene or diorama? I've seen a few of these but I don't think it's common.
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Oct 30, 2023 20:42
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I'm finally finished the sqaud!  I had a very relaxing day with this guy
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Oct 30, 2023 20:43
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Shoehead posted:I'm finally finished the sqaud!
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Oct 30, 2023 20:51
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Waiting for my water effect to hopefully dry this frigging time, but meanwhile:Harvey Mantaco posted:
Answers to all your questions and terrible enabling behavior can be found in the Gunpla thread. Stop by, have a chat, learn what solvent-based shading products don't play well with Bandai plastic. Eej posted:Gunpla is a different beast because the majority of parts are flat primitives and you usually paint in subassemblies and you're less concerned with painting light and shadows because the models are poseable. GW miniatures have a lot more small details on the models themselves with a lot of nooks and crannies designed to be easy to drybrush/edge highlight as well as take washes well. FWIW, this describes scale models more accurately than it does Gundams, and there's sweet FA in the miniatures market that can measure up to some of the kits coming out of China and Eastern Europe, either. Which is also a habit I would encourage the really sick paint addicts in this thread to consider Spanish Manlove posted:Is it common for people to freeze the models in place with glue on the joints and then paint them up in a scene or diorama? I've seen a few of these but I don't think it's common. I wouldn't call it common per se, but it happens. I'd put it at about the same rate as people building permanent dioramas of their minis, versus keeping them based to play a game. The toyetic nature of Gundams is a pretty big selling point.
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Oct 30, 2023 20:59
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Obviously if you're submitting a gigantic battle diorama to the Gunpla Museum you'd glue that poo poo tight but the average person doesn't. I have heard of people using a little bit of glue on joints just to add some stiffness rather than completely eliminate mobility though, to make holding a pose easier.
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Oct 30, 2023 21:01
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I think it'd be interesting to see how Tamiya and Bandai etc. would tackle organics like GW produce. For all their faults when they hit on a kit they really do. I'm currently working on a Deredeo and its such a fun kit for GW but good lord I wish it had that iterative step just in terms of design that Bandai and Tamiya etc. have with disguised join lines and fit. Especially as the deredeo is 2x the price. I have no idea why GW still has such thick gates on so many of its models.
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Oct 30, 2023 21:50
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yea, gw has tons of stupid detail and the gunpla things are pretty basic. credit where credit is due. the gates in the japanese hero space marines are tiny as gently caress and i dont understand why gw hasnt adopted it.
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Oct 30, 2023 22:19
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Paragon8 posted:I think it'd be interesting to see how Tamiya and Bandai etc. would tackle organics like GW produce. For all their faults when they hit on a kit they really do. Bandai does do human figures. It's mostly Anime characters, but I'm pretty sure Bandai has at least one Luke Skywalker kit.
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Oct 30, 2023 22:20
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PoptartsNinja posted:Bandai does do human figures. It's mostly Anime characters, but I'm pretty sure Bandai has at least one Luke Skywalker kit. Sure but they're not really that great. It's like a weird prepainted face plate on essentially a gundam kit Ultimately they're all very different products for different markets and the comparison where they overlap - big robots and vehciles - is interesting. I do think GW is putting out some incredible models so they're not uniformly behind bandai etc. The quality and precision of the face sculpts GW are putting out are incredibly good and I'm not sure anyone is coming quite close to them in their scale.
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Oct 30, 2023 22:55
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It's interesting - I live in Japan, and have a lot of Japanese hobby friends who came to GW miniatures via Bandai* and they uniformly rave about the insane details on GW kits compared to what they're used to. The grass is always greener, I guess. *GW's pipeline of "good-quality acrylic paints to paint your Gundams with" -> "oh, we also have these Space Marine Heroes things to paint" -> "oh, there are also games attached to that" as a way into the Japanese hobby market was honestly pretty dang inspired.
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Oct 30, 2023 23:00
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What about those expensive Joytoy dolls, anyone bought a $70 space marine yet?
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Oct 30, 2023 23:00
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Springfield Fatts posted:What about those expensive Joytoy dolls, anyone bought a $70 space marine yet? I will if they put out a cool looking Alpha Legion one
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Oct 30, 2023 23:07
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Pathetically, same if it's a Worldeater Berserker or Nob / Warboss.
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Oct 30, 2023 23:11
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Paragon8 posted:I think it'd be interesting to see how Tamiya and Bandai etc. would tackle organics like GW produce. For all their faults when they hit on a kit they really do. I recently worked with a 1/35 Tamiya Flak 88 kit for a Basilisk conversion. The Tamiya kit is about 40 years old, but was overall decent. It had a sprue that was pretty misaligned, plus the others had very prominent mold lines. I feel that modern GW kits are better quality, but that isn't super fair because the Tamiya kit is ancient. The details were super crisp though, and nothing is heroic, the detail is all much much smaller than what you get on a GW kit. It really underlines how much GW kits are designed for teenagers/children, a child would destroy the Tamiya kit. All the to scale rods would be done for. I'm going to be raiding that box for industrial looking greebles for years, the kit is worth it for that alone. As for organics, the soldiers in the kit look great, but too much so. They are totally proportionally correct, and that reads too much like toy soldiers to me. They have really natural realistic poses, some in action, some at ease. At 1/35 they are too big, but even scaled to 28/30mm they would look way to natural and would stick out. An army of them would look amazing, but I think it would look like you were playing with a museum display. I also suspect my kit might have been a lemon, as everyone I know has nothing but good things to say about Tamiya, and they enjoy an excellent reputation. No one removed the swastikas from my kit, which is just SOP at Tamiya these days from what I gather. They are allowed in my country, Canada (even applauded), but from what I read Tamiya removes the decals with swastikas so they can ship wherever. I'm guessing that means I either got a kit that sat for decades, unlikely, or maybe that one wormed its way past QC, which the misaligned sprue hints at. I could be wrong about that, but every negative review of that kit is just people across the globe complaining that Tamiya is removing the nazi decals. Did I mention this kit was like $38? Excellent value, if I make this conversion again I'll happily buy another kit.  
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Oct 30, 2023 23:18
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Gunpla plastic also feels a lot more brittle than what GW uses. I wouldn't dream of articulation on troops and heroes, but it feels like for robits and vehicles GW could stand to do a lot better. Things like push fit weapon hardpoints, turret articulation and the like. At the very least let me do JoJos poses with my wraith knight! Surely they could do a socket and ball or ratchet joint that, if not solid enough for long use could be good enough to lose before locking it in with glue
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Oct 30, 2023 23:58
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Virtual Russian posted:I recently worked with a 1/35 Tamiya Flak 88 kit for a Basilisk conversion. The Tamiya kit is about 40 years old, but was overall decent. It had a sprue that was pretty misaligned, plus the others had very prominent mold lines. I feel that modern GW kits are better quality, but that isn't super fair because the Tamiya kit is ancient. The details were super crisp though, and nothing is heroic, the detail is all much much smaller than what you get on a GW kit. It really underlines how much GW kits are designed for teenagers/children, a child would destroy the Tamiya kit. All the to scale rods would be done for. I'm going to be raiding that box for industrial looking greebles for years, the kit is worth it for that alone. Yeah, Tamiya is rad. It's basically the only scale modelling company I'll buy a kit from just for the building experience. I'd encourage anyone to have a go at a modern 1/48 Tamiya tank. They are such precise kits that you can pour a lot of time in. Perhaps too much especially on the planes! I have a couple that are half built because I've lost the patience whereas I find GW kits to be more enjoyable from a painting perspective. I think they can be more forgiving of mistakes as well.
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Oct 31, 2023 00:08
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Space Friend posted:Gunpla plastic also feels a lot more brittle than what GW uses. I wouldn't dream of articulation on troops and heroes, but it feels like for robits and vehicles GW could stand to do a lot better. Things like push fit weapon hardpoints, turret articulation and the like. I got the Tau riptide years ago when I was considering getting back into the game. It has a couple ball sockets but I think that’s really only because Tau had them already. As much as I liked the kit, I still complained that it was a top-heavy kit with the feet being Tau feet that couldn’t stand on their own unless you glued it - unlike gundams. Later on it seems like they recognized the problem but it was a slap on the face. Instead of doing the sensible thing that forgeworld itself did and gave them heels, they doubled down on the no-heel Tau missile gundam and gave it kickstands so it didn’t fall over  I still have the riptide and it’s still only partially assembled so that maybe one day I can give it a nice paint job and display it. But I have a few gundam kits since then and those are much more enjoyable to assemble and paint so who knows when I’ll get around to it.
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Oct 31, 2023 01:34
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Giant Ethicist posted:It's interesting - I live in Japan, and have a lot of Japanese hobby friends who came to GW miniatures via Bandai* and they uniformly rave about the insane details on GW kits compared to what they're used to. The grass is always greener, I guess. I have no idea how a kid is supposed to paint a gunpla with those thick rear end tamiya acrylic paints that no one tells you needs their proprietary alcohol based thinner to be workable. No wonder I never finished painting any of my gunpla as a kid.
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Oct 31, 2023 01:49
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This fuckin' thing.   I have been fighting all afternoon to get this thing to photograph right, to show off the crispy hatching I spent so much time on. Not happening. Here's an in-progress cell phone shot, which is the best I got.  Anyway, lessons learned about water effects: The Vallejo acrylic water effects either go bad, or react profoundly negatively to the faintest hint of moisture under their surface. I did an initial thin pour of about 1mm on this thing, and while the top turned clear and shiny, the formerly clear liquid underneath turned milky white. I had to scrape the whole thing off and repaint, then do it again with mod podge, which worked much better, although it fogs like crazy when you introduce washes to it. Maybe you could get away with oils? Anyway, the pouring water was the easiest part of this whole thing. Take plastic sheet, slather mod podge on with toothpick, sorta scratch it out so it looks like flowing water. Wait until it dries clear, then peel it off, glue it into place with more mod podge, which will also dry clear. Add volume and texture as you like, simple as.
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Oct 31, 2023 02:42
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