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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
P1S doing it's thang:



19+ hours
.12 layer height
Grey plastic, white primer, graphite rub. Then a clear coat

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Nov 1, 2023

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ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

You'll be sorry you made fun of me when Daddy Donald jails all my posting enemies!
Out of curiosity how long does a P1S take to go from "presses print" to "starts printing plastic"?

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

ilkhan posted:

Out of curiosity how long does a P1S take to go from "presses print" to "starts printing plastic"?

If you enable all the default checks and it needs to do a full map from a cold bed, less then 7 min

If you are printing back to back and the bed level didn't change from its initial check, and it's already warm, it's less then 2, and most of that is to upload to the cloud and slowly download it to the printer

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Nov 1, 2023

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Holy poo poo that rules

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

How do idex printers calibrate? I feel like having the hotends exactly aligned to each other would be a massive pain in the rear end.

Or are they just beat out by toolchangers? I guess maybe cost is better on Idex?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
3dxtech ezPC (and ezPC+cf) is amazing and more available in the US than the basf/prusa stuff.

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

NewFatMike posted:

Ooh that’s very good to know! I was already recommending them, all the more reason to.

Yeah the all-metal hot end and direct drive was what made me choose it - and also choose to get back into 3D printing at all. (I first got into 3D printing as an intern using the makerbot replicator 2 - what a piece of poo poo it was).
So I think it is technically possible to print nylon with the SV06, but it sounds like I'd need an enclosure and ventilation for it to be even approaching a good idea. I think I'll take the advice of this thread and stay away.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

w00tmonger posted:

How do idex printers calibrate? I feel like having the hotends exactly aligned to each other would be a massive pain in the rear end.

Or are they just beat out by toolchangers? I guess maybe cost is better on Idex?

I don’t own one but when I looked into it you had to do a calibration print to make sure the heads were aligned with each other. It does sound like a pain in the butt, but they are considerably cheaper than tool changers, you can get an idex printer for ~$500 but I haven’t seen a tool changer under $2k.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

deimos posted:

3dxtech ezPC (and ezPC+cf) is amazing and more available in the US than the basf/prusa stuff.

MatterHackers pretty consistently have BASF materials, Printed Solid for PrusamentPC blend if you’re ever looking for em. I may just be lucky and not been shopping for my usual stuff when it’s out of stock.

I’ll check out 3DXTech. They pretty consistently seem like they have what I need, but I never got around to checking them out. Thanks for the rec!

Splode posted:

Yeah the all-metal hot end and direct drive was what made me choose it - and also choose to get back into 3D printing at all. (I first got into 3D printing as an intern using the makerbot replicator 2 - what a piece of poo poo it was).
So I think it is technically possible to print nylon with the SV06, but it sounds like I'd need an enclosure and ventilation for it to be even approaching a good idea. I think I'll take the advice of this thread and stay away.

That’s about the long and short of it. The thermistor problem is honestly the biggest barrier for a lot of folks. People trust that 300C rating on off the shelf printers, but it’s not reliably reporting those high temperatures.

A buddy has to maintain his super specialized nylon printing machine only once every year or two but it’s a massive pain because there’s no quantity supplier and custom firmware limits you pretty hard.

There’s pretty good substitutes out there. Unless you’re doing combat robotics or weird chemical stuff I don’t think most folks are gonna miss it.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

NewFatMike posted:

MatterHackers pretty consistently have BASF materials, Printed Solid for PrusamentPC blend if you’re ever looking for em. I may just be lucky and not been shopping for my usual stuff when it’s out of stock.

I’ll check out 3DXTech. They pretty consistently seem like they have what I need, but I never got around to checking them out. Thanks for the rec!

Oh and snolabs, their pccf is cheap ($55/kg is cheap for pccf) but suspiciously easy to print, it's rigid and tough but likely not as heat resistant. So depending on your needs it may be good enough.

deimos fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Nov 1, 2023

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

w00tmonger posted:

How do idex printers calibrate? I feel like having the hotends exactly aligned to each other would be a massive pain in the rear end.

Or are they just beat out by toolchangers? I guess maybe cost is better on Idex?

You need to calibrate them. Each style.. kinda.. does it differently. And yes, it's a pain in the rear end.

If you're making structural things, idex is ideal. Have one loaded with your support or boundry material, then print the rest in your expensive filament. You get perfect undersides, and you get the parts you need without much fuss.

If you need more than two filaments, the world gets a lot weirder. You're ether color changing, which is simple with one hot end, or you need to look at a tool switcher. Which... really means prusa xl at this point.

Numinous
May 20, 2001

College Slice

Hadlock posted:

Got an email today, it was like "heyyyy... So I noticed you haven't put in your order yet... Uhhh so what's the deal? Can you fill out this extremely sketchy Google forms survey?!"

So I did. I selected the middle option which was "oh hell no, I'm waiting for the goddamn independent reviews, you gently caress, I waited two goddamn years, I'm not just rolling the dice at this point"

So yeah

I know you fucks are reading this thread. I get enough PMs from other people watching other industries. Just buy an account already, maybe? The cost of three packs of gummi bars bears

I have pretty good trust in the product, but I need some goddamn proof. Your beta testers aren't instilling a lot of confidence

I just pulled the trigger on a 5 head so I'm invested at this point both in $$$ and soon to be time(Delivers on Monday 6th!) so I did a look around to get a feel for how things were going and I'm generally hearing that stringing is still an issue that mostly seems to be related to tool head changing and lifting but that Prusa is also making regular firmware updates and slicer updates which are resolving issues and adding functionality.

My conclusion is that the hardware is rock solid and the software is mediocre and improving. Accurate?

Numinous fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Nov 1, 2023

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG


What is this effect called and what do I need to be looking for?

It's Overture PETG on a smooth sheet w/ plenty of glue. First layer goes down fantastic. These are 2nd/third layers at 0.10mm detail. Still Creality Print because the Prusaslicer profile I found for the K1 did much worse with this filament.

I run my K1 at 200m/s max print speeds versus 300m/s, but it only hits like 50-60ms on these little parts anyway. Otherwise, 240 degrees at the nozzle and 80 on the bed.

But like half of them are fine, the other half have the weird, layer lines start lifting up bullshit, so I'm just at a loss

Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Nov 1, 2023

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
does it do it with colors that are not white, the worst color to print?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Looks like bad first layer / uneven bed. Some of them are good. Some of them are too close.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG

Javid posted:

does it do it with colors that are not white, the worst color to print?

It is actually gray! My phone just likes to overexpose everything

tater_salad posted:

Looks like bad first layer / uneven bed. Some of them are good. Some of them are too close.

But the first layer went down fine, and the bed is pretty dang level in Fluidd (aside from the back corner, where that one did have a problem):



I noticed that there's some filament blobbing on the nozzle though, so I guess I'm gonna do a few cold pulls

Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Nov 1, 2023

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

NewFatMike posted:

The short answer is that your Sovol SV06 cannot print nylon.

The long answer is that your Sovol SV06 *may* print nylon, but it will at minimum require an enclosure and a new hot end assembly as well as custom firmware.

Your hot end probably has PTFE going all the way to the brake, and nylons designed eplicitly for 3D printing melt around 290C. That PTFE is designed for use at a maximum of 265C for extended periods of time before it starts making cancer fumes.

The second thing that sneaks up on people is that mainstream thermistors start being unreliable well short of the rated 300C. 280 and up starts to get a little wibbly. To get a new thermistor, your board has to talk to it, and so it needs new firmware so the board can understand what the new thermistor is saying.

The enclosure is doable, loads of people have ‘em.

The material gets screwy. You’ll need a plate and likely an interface like Magigoo for most blends of nylon. The nylon itself requires specialized watertight containers with molecular sieves and a dispensing port for printing because it will absorb a troublesome amount of water within a half hour of exposure to ambient.

So we have the plate, we have the storage, we have the interface, now we can actually begin to print. Nylon needs to go VERY slow, and bridges for poo poo. Then there’s the warping.

Even with an interface layer and enclosure, nylon warps like CRAZY and very few blends don’t warp much (but they do still warp). This isn’t just a problem with interlayer adhesion, sometimes the print will bond *too* well to the build plate and pull the build plate up with the warp, overpowering the magnets keeping it down.

It is also a very expensive material.

With all that, just get a Bambu Lab X1 if you *really* need to print nylon. It’s the least expensive out-of-the-box solution out there. I’ve been printing Prusament PC Blend on my Prusa Mini for years, and I would recommend that on your SV06 well over any nylon out there.

I'm printing Taulman 645 on a (pretty heavily) modified ender 3 pro. (New mobo, hotend, enclosure, filament drier, etc). I have a roll of Polymaker PA6-GF but I haven't tried printing with it yet.

In your experience what's a trickier nylon to print? I'd like to see if this Frankenstein ender is up to the challenge.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Is your filament dry? Are you printing from a dry box? I have the hardest time with petg if I don't dry it for at least 24 hours (at 65C), hopefully in a few weeks I'll have my filament storage sorted with a dedicated dehumidifier to keep it at 25%.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG

deimos posted:

Is your filament dry? Are you printing from a dry box? I have the hardest time with petg if I don't dry it for at least 24 hours (at 65C), hopefully in a few weeks I'll have my filament storage sorted with a dedicated dehumidifier to keep it at 25%.

I'm guessing that question was directed at me - I have run it through a dryer overnight, but it does not live in a dry box when it's loaded. Only been exposed to outside air for about 48 hours at this point.

Anyway I ran some cleaning filament through it, did 3 cold pulls, and the filament is coming out of the nozzle straight now so that seems like a good sign. Also limiting my print to one at a time to dial in specific issues because clearly 9 objects was too ambitious

Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Nov 1, 2023

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

tater_salad posted:

Fyi Sv06 is a an all metal ptfe free hotend. So no need to worry about ptfe melting. And or killing you because it's off gassing.

It'll also do 300C at the nozzle right out of the box. High-temp filament capability was a huge part of their advertising when they released the 06 last year.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I printed one of my objects on the K1. It got halfway through then started doing the same thing. At this point I just have to assume that since I have a unit with the original extruder/hotend that they have finally gotten hosed up and I need to buy the upgraded extruder and hotend now

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I moved to print to my Prusa. It was going better until now, where I’ve had no power for about 15 minutes. So I guess the universe just says I don’t get to print these little hearthstone keychains for my friends :(

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I give up I'm just gonna use a loving brim lol

https://i.imgur.com/5MQ3drQ.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/Lq7zs7L.mp4


https://i.imgur.com/uuphPFP.mp4


BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Tiny Timbs posted:

I give up I'm just gonna use a loving brim lol

The question is why you didn't the first 3 times :thunk:

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I've had a really hard time getting brims to separate well, especially on complex and small, round shapes. This time I'm trying a brim with a 0.2mm brim-object gap (default is 0.1mm).

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Tiny Timbs posted:

I've had a really hard time getting brims to separate well, especially on complex and small, round shapes. This time I'm trying a brim with a 0.2mm brim-object gap (default is 0.1mm).

Do the opposite of that and then cut the brim off with a knife

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Also for concave areas, you can cut the brim off with one of these deburring tools:

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Macichne Leainig posted:

I printed one of my objects on the K1. It got halfway through then started doing the same thing. At this point I just have to assume that since I have a unit with the original extruder/hotend that they have finally gotten hosed up and I need to buy the upgraded extruder and hotend now

Don't buy the upgrade they'll send to you for free as I understand it.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG

tater_salad posted:

Don't buy the upgrade they'll send to you for free as I understand it.

Yeah I forgot I can just send them a photo and say "it's underextruding" which I mean, look at this, it's probably that exact issue tbqh



Anyway thankfully the power was only out for an hour, not three like they estimated so my print will be done in time on the Prusa

Morpheus
Apr 18, 2008

My favourite little monsters
I've recently noticed that my print quality on my Prusa Mini+ has plummeted, with a massive amount of blobby stringing and loss of quality. Considering I haven't changed anything about my prints lately, including settings, material, etc, since I got the printer a year ago, but did recently move house. So Im pretty sure it's moisture in the PLA and so am looking for a dryer (I don't want to put it in the oven, even though I know technically that can work. What's the best dryer on the market these days? Considering a Sunlu S1 or S2, any thoughts on those?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Used food dehydrator from Craigslist.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

Morpheus posted:

I've recently noticed that my print quality on my Prusa Mini+ has plummeted, with a massive amount of blobby stringing and loss of quality. Considering I haven't changed anything about my prints lately, including settings, material, etc, since I got the printer a year ago, but did recently move house. So Im pretty sure it's moisture in the PLA and so am looking for a dryer (I don't want to put it in the oven, even though I know technically that can work. What's the best dryer on the market these days? Considering a Sunlu S1 or S2, any thoughts on those?

You might also consider changing your nozzle if you haven’t recently. Even if you’re not printing abrasives they’ll wear out eventually and lead to that kind of symptom.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



guys 3d printing is a good market if you hit on the right stuff

currently deep into my best day on etsy.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Finally got my Sovol sv06 set up and sliced using combos of prusaslicer, ultimaker cura, and the sovol cura program. Using GST3D army green filament, I ran a calibration cube, seemed great! Ran a few small items, they were great! I figured it was time to try a larger item.

Then the failures started happening. I figured maybe it was the placement of the items, so I reoriented the items, added brims, increased the supports, and eventually reduced the number of items on the board from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1, but all that occurred were multiple failures. Some had the print fully lift off the bed, others got tangled.

I redid the board leveling & Z probing after letting the machine stay heated fire an hour and still received issues with the prints. I opted at last for a bench and it started out well but as soon as it hit the little steering wheel it went way off the rails and failed (at least it stuck to the bed this time).

I got pissed and decided to go online and discovered there was a firmware update. So I followed the instructions and bricked my machine after the machine failed to flash.

Turns out the machines also hate cards larger than 8gb! Which means all of my current cards are useless since the next step is to try to flash it with a different card, so I'm waiting on a delivery and until that item arrives this printer is dead.



What a fun first day

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

The Demilich posted:

Finally got my Sovol sv06 set up and sliced using combos of prusaslicer, ultimaker cura, and the sovol cura program. Using GST3D army green filament, I ran a calibration cube, seemed great! Ran a few small items, they were great! I figured it was time to try a larger item.

Then the failures started happening. I figured maybe it was the placement of the items, so I reoriented the items, added brims, increased the supports, and eventually reduced the number of items on the board from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1, but all that occurred were multiple failures. Some had the print fully lift off the bed, others got tangled.

I redid the board leveling & Z probing after letting the machine stay heated fire an hour and still received issues with the prints. I opted at last for a bench and it started out well but as soon as it hit the little steering wheel it went way off the rails and failed (at least it stuck to the bed this time).

I got pissed and decided to go online and discovered there was a firmware update. So I followed the instructions and bricked my machine after the machine failed to flash.

Turns out the machines also hate cards larger than 8gb! Which means all of my current cards are useless since the next step is to try to flash it with a different card, so I'm waiting on a delivery and until that item arrives this printer is dead.



What a fun first day

Welcome to the hobby, it really does get better eventually!

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
No it doesn’t, you just get used to it.

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:
Ayy, the ESP32 touch pad came earlier than expected so I was able to assemble it and slap it on my P1S.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQU4yoLkAok

8-bit Miniboss fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 2, 2023

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

queeb posted:

guys 3d printing is a good market if you hit on the right stuff

currently deep into my best day on etsy.

Is printing now your full time income?


The Demilich posted:

Finally got my Sovol sv06 set up and sliced using combos of prusaslicer, ultimaker cura, and the sovol cura program. Using GST3D army green filament, I ran a calibration cube, seemed great! Ran a few small items, they were great! I figured it was time to try a larger item.

Then the failures started happening. I figured maybe it was the placement of the items, so I reoriented the items, added brims, increased the supports, and eventually reduced the number of items on the board from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1, but all that occurred were multiple failures. Some had the print fully lift off the bed, others got tangled.

Did you wash the build plate or just start printing with it out of the box? Could be something from the factory that shouldn't be there that you need to scrub off.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Listerine posted:

Is printing now your full time income?

Did you wash the build plate or just start printing with it out of the box? Could be something from the factory that shouldn't be there that you need to scrub off.

I just started printing because the nstructions never mentioned needing to give a wipe down. Then again the instructions also neglected to mention setting the Z axis to 0 prior to probing the offset, so yeah.

Is there a preferred isopropyl dilution to use? Or is a different cleaning agent recommended?

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

The Demilich posted:

I just started printing because the nstructions never mentioned needing to give a wipe down. Then again the instructions also neglected to mention setting the Z axis to 0 prior to probing the offset, so yeah.

Is there a preferred isopropyl dilution to use? Or is a different cleaning agent recommended?

Dawn dish soap works very well.

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