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bicievino posted:Downtube shifters are no less convenient than bartend shifters imo, and are superior in terms of anesthetics (not imo, objective fact).
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Nov 3, 2023 17:45
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Bar ends are slightly easier to shift when you're riding on rougher surfaces since you can (awkwardly) keep your shifting hand on the bars. Does anybody make a threadless stem or spacer with shifter bosses? It's time to revive stem shifters
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Nov 3, 2023 19:55
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Is this provided as an example of something you guys like or don't like? I don't get downtube shifters at all but bar end shifters do look really bad.
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Nov 3, 2023 20:24
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I have the utmost respect for friction shifters and thank them for their service every day but I will never ever use them unless it's some ultra fancy vintage bike I don't want to ruin by modifying
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Nov 3, 2023 20:30
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If you get friction shifters, make sure to get good ones with a ratcheting function, and big thumb handles. They're much easier to adjust and they're not as prone to slip as basic friction shifters. And they're tactilely satisfying  . My wife has a stem friction shifter pair and I run mine on the down tube. They're a little sketchy at first but when you get the hang of it, they're nice. You're going to be looking between your legs a lot more to see what gear you're in, and you'll find you'll want to brace your hand against your frame when you make a shift.
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Nov 3, 2023 20:44
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Friction shifters are wonderful on an 11 speed cassette because you can throw it roughly in the area you want it and it's going to find a gear. The 5-7 speed ones I've used you kind of need to feel it out and/or memorize positions because there's a lot more empty space.
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Nov 3, 2023 21:40
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well I kind of figured I would use an indexed shifter for the rear cassette...
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Nov 3, 2023 21:43
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I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike to more modern ones that don't have integrated shifters. I understand that v-brakes (why they are called this when they look like an H I don't know) have a different pull distance to cantilevers and road bike calipers, which rules out the large pile of 90's MTB levers in my possession. I am looking at eg Shimano sora levers, which I imagine should work for me because they're designed for road bike calipers, and they are listed as somehow being compatible with both cantilevers and v-brakes. I don't really see how that can be the case? I'm forced to buy online so I don't have the option of trying and returning.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:27
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Slavvy posted:I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike to more modern ones that don't have integrated shifters. I understand that v-brakes (why they are called this when they look like an H I don't know) have a different pull distance to cantilevers and road bike calipers, which rules out the large pile of 90's MTB levers in my possession. The Sora levers can be switched from one to the other. And they're called v-brakes because Shimano needed something they could trademark, the generic term for them is linear-pull cantilevers.
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Nov 4, 2023 21:37
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Slavvy posted:I understand that v-brakes (why they are called this when they look like an H I don't know) have a different pull distance to cantilevers and road bike calipers, which rules out the large pile of 90's MTB levers in my possession. I’m confused — did 90s MTB levers use road pull? Not sure what the implications are of saying V brakes have different pull than road calipers. Though there are some that do, just not with amazing tire clearance. https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/brakes/brake-calipers/trp-cx-9-cyclo-cross-brakes-review/
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Nov 5, 2023 00:06
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with downtubes, the only correct setup is friction in the front, index in the rear
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Nov 5, 2023 00:11
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SimonSays posted:The Sora levers can be switched from one to the other. And they're called v-brakes because Shimano needed something they could trademark, the generic term for them is linear-pull cantilevers. Thank you, this is exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for! kimbo305 posted:I’m confused — did 90s MTB levers use road pull? Not sure what the implications are of saying V brakes have different pull than road calipers. V-brakes have different pull distance to the common kind of road calipers as far as I know. Most rim brake mtb's I've seen run v brakes, although I have a couple that have cantilevers instead, but unfortunately I can't use those levers because they have integrated shifters.
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Nov 5, 2023 03:51
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Yeah, v brake levers have a different pull ratio to road or cantilever or whatever. If you're unsure which you have you can measure the distance from the lever's pivot point to the cable anchor point. V brake levers have a distance of 35mm and cantilever levers 28mm. In practice these distances vary a little between models. E. To add, Shimano started selling v brakes only in 1996 and introduced them on the xtr level (  ) so there's plenty of 90s mtbs without them. They didn't invent the design but made it popular.
Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 08:22
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A small part inside my right-hand shifter (SRAM force 10x2 road) broke on the way home from work a few weeks ago, apparently a notorious weak-point. Luckily I found a guy in Taiwan who sells 3D printed metal replacements for it. Got the part in the mail and re-assembled the bike the night before an 82 km gravel ride and it performed flawlessly, hopefully it lasts another 10 years. 
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Nov 5, 2023 08:53
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Are Connex links on other brands’ chains known to be tight and stiff and cause issues sometimes or did I gently caress it up by using a brand new quick link on middle‐aged chain? I replaced it with a worn Connex, and that seems to have enough clearance to work.
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Nov 6, 2023 05:35
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Havana Affair posted:Yeah, v brake levers have a different pull ratio to road or cantilever or whatever. If you're unsure which you have you can measure the distance from the lever's pivot point to the cable anchor point. V brake levers have a distance of 35mm and cantilever levers 28mm. In practice these distances vary a little between models. But V brakes designed for cross bikes (that use road levers) would have an appropriate ratio for road, right? I know plenty of people were using TRP CX9s and CX8.4s before disc took over.
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Nov 6, 2023 06:08
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kimbo305 posted:But V brakes designed for cross bikes (that use road levers) would have an appropriate ratio for road, right? I know plenty of people were using TRP CX9s and CX8.4s before disc took over. Those are mini v-brakes as opposed to normal v-brakes and yes they work with road levers but not v-brake levers. I think the arms are shorter which changes the mechanical advantage. This pretty much makes them incompatible with mtbs because they wouldn't clear the tires.
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Nov 6, 2023 06:15
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jesus WEP posted:with downtubes, the only correct setup is friction in the front, index in the rear I've never ridden a bike where friction front & rear wasn't superior to an indexed downtube or bar-end shifter. Friction is great. But I've also never tried to use downtube shifters with modern gearing because I can appreciate the areas where advancing technology has made for an improved experience over the poo poo I put up with when I was a kid.
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Nov 6, 2023 07:50
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Havana Affair posted:Those are mini v-brakes as opposed to normal v-brakes and yes they work with road levers but not v-brake levers. I think the arms are shorter which changes the mechanical advantage. This pretty much makes them incompatible with mtbs because they wouldn't clear the tires. Oh ok, I didn't know what size tire Slavvy was working with, though in hindsight, there's probably not much confusion with 90s flat bar and canti brakes.
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Nov 6, 2023 08:30
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bicievino posted:I've never ridden a bike where friction front & rear wasn't superior to an indexed downtube or bar-end shifter. Friction is great.
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Nov 6, 2023 10:10
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kimbo305 posted:Oh ok, I didn't know what size tire Slavvy was working with, though in hindsight, there's probably not much confusion with 90s flat bar and canti brakes. Tbh I just saw the word mtb somewhere on this page and assumed the bike would be that. They did make hybrids with 700cs and cantis in that period, some of them pretty sweet too - triple butted steel frames with clearance for like 38mm tires with fenders.
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Nov 6, 2023 16:33
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Havana Affair posted:Tbh I just saw the word mtb somewhere on this page and assumed the bike would be that. They did make hybrids with 700cs and cantis in that period, some of them pretty sweet too - triple butted steel frames with clearance for like 38mm tires with fenders. Literally what the levers are for 
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Nov 6, 2023 18:17
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I read from looking last night that the TRP CX9s can barely clear 45s, so might work with a bit of adjustment to lower the fender a bit.
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Nov 6, 2023 18:37
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That's a good looking bike. Dunno why you're changing the cantis but I can see they have the Shimano z link wires which suck. Here's an article going through how the most important adjustment for canti brakes is the yoke height and those effectively make that adjustment impossible. If you want to get more braking power out of those brakes (as is usually the case) switching to a normal yoke and getting it as low as you need will sort them out. You can have them touching the mudguards if necessary. Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Nov 6, 2023 |
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Nov 6, 2023 20:41
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kimbo305 posted:I read from looking last night that the TRP CX9s can barely clear 45s, so might work with a bit of adjustment to lower the fender a bit. I feel like we're having two different conversations here Havana Affair posted:That's a good looking bike. I'm not changing them! I like them and want to keep them. That's why I'm getting levers that will work with them! All I'm changing is the drivetrain, from 7 speed to 8 speed, which comes with separate shifters. The current levers have 7 speed shifters built in so they'll have to go in favour of standalone levers. Anyway it looks like tiagra ones will work so that's what I'm getting.
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Nov 6, 2023 20:47
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My bad, I should maybe try actually reading the thread.
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Nov 6, 2023 20:59
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I think cantilevers look classy and clean, whereas v-brakes look gauche and clumsy That's fine on a MTB but this bike has a certain highbrow appeal I'm trying to preserve
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Nov 6, 2023 21:08
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Havana Affair posted:My bad, I should maybe try actually reading the thread. Big same. I thought "I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike" meant changing to drop bars, and thus requiring something with road pull.
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Nov 6, 2023 22:22
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kimbo305 posted:Big same. I thought "I'm trying to change the flat bar levers on my 90's cantilever equipped bike" When I did this it was v-brakes with a travel agent or some cantis. I chose cantis for looks and have never felt as though I'm lacking in braking performance.
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Nov 6, 2023 22:34
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I just noticed my carbon fork has paint peeling and bubbling off the aluminum parts:  Ritchey said I need to try getting the flakes off and painting over to keep the fork from corroding more, and generally keep an eye on it. They offered me a discount on a replacement and I'm wondering if I should just do that or if it's not a big deal and should just paint over it?
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Nov 7, 2023 16:42
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powderific posted:I just noticed my carbon fork has paint peeling and bubbling off the aluminum parts: Might just be the reflection but is that a big dent in it?
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Nov 7, 2023 21:38
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Just a trick of the light, no dent
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Nov 8, 2023 01:05
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I believe aluminum will form an oxide layer and therefore protect it from deeper corrosion (unlike steel). So I think it's just up to you on aesthetics.
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Nov 8, 2023 01:34
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Has anybody had any luck with tubeless tire plugs? I converted my partner's hardtail to tubeless a while ago and recently the rear got a tiny leak that the sealant didn't quite seal up (although it was such a slow leak you'd only have to pump it up every few days really). I had a go at using one of those tubeless plug kits but A) the hole was so small that it took a huge amount of effort to actually shove the tool in, making the hole much larger in the process and B) it didn't seal at all, the plug was in there all kinda mushed up but it was just hosing sealant out anyway. I'm sure I hosed up the plug somehow but honestly if they're that temperamental I wouldn't be that confident in my ability to use one out in the middle of nowhere and have it work, I'm also kinda surprised that the sealant didn't work on this little hole despite it being so tiny. Ultimately I just shoved a bloody tube in there for now which is working fine.
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Nov 8, 2023 18:53
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I’ve got over a year on a tubeless plug (on a fat tire, with lower pressures), but it was a decent size hole to begin with.
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Nov 8, 2023 18:56
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Blackhawk posted:Has anybody had any luck with tubeless tire plugs? I converted my partner's hardtail to tubeless a while ago and recently the rear got a tiny leak that the sealant didn't quite seal up (although it was such a slow leak you'd only have to pump it up every few days really). I had a go at using one of those tubeless plug kits but A) the hole was so small that it took a huge amount of effort to actually shove the tool in, making the hole much larger in the process and B) it didn't seal at all, the plug was in there all kinda mushed up but it was just hosing sealant out anyway. I've had great luck with them. I used a fistful of them to close up a gaping hole next to the bead where I cased a wheel descending rock steps on a mountain on the West Highland Way on a gravel bike. Got me 30km home with about 5 ugly plugs shoved in with a bit of glue. Got home, stitched up that hole with needle and thread, let the sealant do its thing on the stitching, and raced on it for the rest of the year. It was just standard Stans, btw. If it's a super slow and small pinhole leak then the sealant really should fix it by itself; to me it sounds like your sealant isn't good. You could also pop one side of the tyre off and patch it from the inside with a stick on patch from a classic puncture repair kit. I would be concerned for future rides that your current sealant isn't doing its job though. meltie fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Nov 10, 2023 |
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Nov 9, 2023 16:19
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I usually only use plugs if i'm out on a ride to try to get a bigger hole/cut to seal. Then later I'll take the tire off, scrub the cut area clean of sealant, and stick a patch on the inside. Lezyne makes a tubeless specific patch but the normal ones work usually. The thin glueless patches are easy but might eventually blow out with a larger hole.
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Nov 9, 2023 17:41
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Plugs work great and I consider them permanent repairs in most cases.
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Nov 9, 2023 18:05
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Blackhawk posted:I had a go at using one of those tubeless plug kits but A) the hole was so small that it took a huge amount of effort to actually shove the tool in, making the hole much larger in the process and B) it didn't seal at all, the plug was in there all kinda mushed up but it was just hosing sealant out anyway. I had a lezyne tubeless plug kit which was like this, i've since replaced it with a dynaplug kit which is much more confidence inspiring (specifically, you get the plug in without having to stab an even bigger hole into your tyre). Spendy, but what price can you put on being able to get home after a puncture 
Sphyre fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Nov 10, 2023 |
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Nov 10, 2023 01:21
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 00:17 |
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I carry a Dynaplug, the finest in patching technology. I’ve never had to use it, which indicates to me that it is a powerful talisman against all that would harm my tires. 
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Nov 10, 2023 06:18
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