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TheLawinator
Apr 13, 2012

Competence on the battlefield is a myth. The side which screws up next to last wins, it's as simple as that.

With this water filtration talk now I'm thinking of getting one. I'm just in a 2 bed apartment condo so would getting a whole house filter to cover my shower as well be that much more expensive or hard to keep up than 2 under sink filters?

Edit: it's obviously way more expensive, still curious about the value of having a filtered shower though.

TheLawinator fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Nov 7, 2023

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Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

I strongly recommend to get your water tested before getting any type of water system installed or set up. These things are not cheap and there is a fair amount of maintenance and upkeep. There are also many different types of systems that are meant for removing different things and you won't know what you actually need to remove, if anything, until you have your water tested.

If you just want filtered drinking water get an under sink unit or a filtered water pitcher and be fine with it.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

PainterofCrap posted:

I used to use a yard vacuum.

Three years ago I mulched them with the mower. Lawn (zoysia) has never looked so lush.

Anybody in the market for a good lawn vacuum?

Yeah I bought a Ryobi lawn vacuum thing and it’s extremely cumbersome and doesn’t mulch worth a poo poo so the bag fills up super quickly. My ego mower turns 2-foot-tall swathes of leaves into a fine powder so I’m just going to stick with that.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I should clarify that this is a walk-behind unit that sucks up everything.

Joke's on me, I used it this past weekend to separate out & bin about 60-pounds of Scotch pine needles. Was wary about mulching it with the mower; the damned needles do a great job of inhibiting grass/undergrowth so I didn't want them in my lawn.

It's this one, in the foreground, left side. Note the utter absence if grass.



The needle production from this one tree is spectacular. Probably a hay-bale's worth and the tree looks as lush as ever.

In any event, push-behind yard vacuums now start at $700, so I'm holding on to it. Think I paid under $400 from Sears in 2017.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 7, 2023

Comfortador
Jul 31, 2003

Just give me all the 3ggs_n_b4con you have.

Wait...wait.

I worry what you just heard was...
"Give me a lot of b4con_n_3ggs."

What I said was...
"Give me all the 3ggs_n_b4con you have"

...Do you understand?
Wrong thread, disregard!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Douche4Sale posted:

I strongly recommend to get your water tested before getting any type of water system installed or set up. These things are not cheap and there is a fair amount of maintenance and upkeep. There are also many different types of systems that are meant for removing different things and you won't know what you actually need to remove, if anything, until you have your water tested.

If you just want filtered drinking water get an under sink unit or a filtered water pitcher and be fine with it.

This. You can also be buying a system that doesn't address the problem(s) you may or may not have. This is a before and after testing at an accredited lab situation. Call you county ag extension. They likely do this kind of testing.

BigHead
Jul 25, 2003
Huh?


Nap Ghost
The concrete pad in front of my front door cracked, looks like from settling. It's a pretty big crack and there is a support for an awning on the portion that sagged, so I want to get it fixed asap. What's a reasonable price for that? The first foundation repair company I called guessed $2500-$3000 before coming out to estimate.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BigHead posted:

The concrete pad in front of my front door cracked, looks like from settling. It's a pretty big crack and there is a support for an awning on the portion that sagged, so I want to get it fixed asap. What's a reasonable price for that? The first foundation repair company I called guessed $2500-$3000 before coming out to estimate.

Unknowable without specifics. What was their proposed scope of work? Get another estimate and see if they propose the same basic method of repair and compare prices.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



How big a slab, and how thick
It there good drainage
Is it on a slope
what kind of soil
Photo might help

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

PainterofCrap posted:

How big a slab, and how thick
It there good drainage
Is it on a slope
what kind of soil
Photo might help

How big is the slab?
What are the ground conditions?
Photo might help.

That's how close to a haiku we were.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You're doing good work Jenkl.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Related question: I'm hoping to fix my front door's stoop next year, and have no idea where to start!

Should I Google like "concrete pourers in my city" and go from there? I want it to be just a solid slab, cause right now it's a jankily shaped together brick shitshow that I literally tell anyone coming to our place "please be careful when stepping into our stoop!" :derp:

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Johnny Truant posted:

Related question: I'm hoping to fix my front door's stoop next year, and have no idea where to start!

Should I Google like "concrete pourers in my city" and go from there? I want it to be just a solid slab, cause right now it's a jankily shaped together brick shitshow that I literally tell anyone coming to our place "please be careful when stepping into our stoop!" :derp:

That’s probably a pretty small job for a concrete company tbh. You’d probably over pay if you went with them. How big of a slab do you want?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Real rough approximation would be like... 3x3'? I don't think I can batch any other concrete related projects to make it a bigger job, unfortunately.

Chillyrabbit
Oct 24, 2012

The only sword wielding rabbit on the internet



Ultra Carp
At small enough volumes or if you love lifting heavy bags of concrete, you can mix your own using pre mixed bags found at home depot.

Only need a bucket, drill, drill mixing attachment and a finishing tool.

it's just an option if it's too small for a company to do.

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008
Would a precast stoop work here?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Chillyrabbit posted:

At small enough volumes or if you love lifting heavy bags of concrete, you can mix your own using pre mixed bags found at home depot.

Only need a bucket, drill, drill mixing attachment and a finishing tool.

it's just an option if it's too small for a company to do.

I mean I'm always down for more tools... :getin: guess I'll do a little digging into doing it myself! That's probably something that requires a permit, hmm

Guy Axlerod posted:

Would a precast stoop work here?

I didn't know these existed until your post, so now researching ahoy! :toot:

Fake edit: oh this actually reminded me that I wanted to actually increase the size of the stoop lol, totally forgot about that!

hattersmad
Feb 21, 2015

In this style, 10/6
Getting multiple smaller decks repaired, house painted, and garage door replaced. Total chaos of contractors and my own time to take care of little things to make everything go smoothly, and *now* is the moment the hot water decides it’s time to give up.

Just ranting.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
It's always something.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Johnny Truant posted:

I mean I'm always down for more tools... :getin: guess I'll do a little digging into doing it myself! That's probably something that requires a permit, hmm

I realize that where I'm at people play fast and loose with permits all the time but I'm really struggling to see how "replacing an existing stoop" would fall into permit-required territory.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




IOwnCalculus posted:

I realize that where I'm at people play fast and loose with permits all the time but I'm really struggling to see how "replacing an existing stoop" would fall into permit-required territory.

I mean I have never done anything myself (so far) that's required permits so I'm probably being overly cautious? Idk, a stoop is something that is hosed up could potentially injure someone? That was my thinking :shrug:

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
In my experience, with stuff like electrical, the official guidance is basically "get a permit if you stare too long at an outlet" so you can't really ask officials if work should be permitted or not because they'll always say yes. But for something like a stoop, it should be pretty concrete (lol) if a permit is needed or not, and your local permit office should be able easily answer the question.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

you can't really ask officials if work should be permitted or not because they'll always say yes.

I don't know where you formed this opinion but it's absolutely not true. Plenty of jurisdictions are entirely reasonable about this kind of thing. Typically the kind that have their own employees doing code enforcement and not an outside contracting firm.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
My state issues electrical permits, and they provide little guidance beyond "all electrical work must be inspected", and inspections are done by private contractors. So I guess I'm just in one of those unreasonable jurisdictions for electrical work. At least most everything else goes through the city, which is much more reasonable.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

Struensee posted:

It's always something.
Several holidays ago, I had a full house of kids and my parents staying with us. Within a 2-hour span, my undersink water filter popped a hose and sprayed everywhere, the latch mechanism for my front door broke, and as I was in the process of going through the attached garage to see if the front door was openable from the outside one of my garage door springs broke. The kids all heard the "FUUUUUUUUCK" from inside the garage as that happened.

It's loving always something.

Luckily I got the local garage door installers to come out that day and put new springs on the door, and the front door just needed a $10 part.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Johnny Truant posted:

I mean I'm always down for more tools... :getin: guess I'll do a little digging into doing it myself! That's probably something that requires a permit, hmm

I didn't know these existed until your post, so now researching ahoy! :toot:

Fake edit: oh this actually reminded me that I wanted to actually increase the size of the stoop lol, totally forgot about that!

You could absolutely do it yourself something that size isn’t really even complicated and YouTube university will definitely help guide you.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
FWIW in my area I believe a stoop that's three or fewer steps and not fastened to the home would not require a permit, similar to how, here at least, a floating deck below a certain height and not attached would be ok to do without a permit.

I think any more steps or building something you physically attach to the structure get you involving the city.

TheWevel
Apr 14, 2002
Send Help; Trapped in Stupid Factory


I have this fountain in the courtyard next to my house. This is the furthest north I’ve ever lived (MD/PA line near Baltimore)…what do I do with it for the winter? I was thinking about draining it and covering it. There aren’t any fish in it.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

TheWevel posted:



I have this fountain in the courtyard next to my house. This is the furthest north I’ve ever lived (MD/PA line near Baltimore)…what do I do with it for the winter? I was thinking about draining it and covering it. There aren’t any fish in it.

Taking the pump out if you can get to it easily is probably smart.

https://www.timberlinelandscaping.com/next-year-winterize-your-water-features-to-enjoy-them-in-the-spring/

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
My parents live in deep freeze central NY and just pull the pump out of the pool part of their garden water fall every year and let the rest freeze.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Jenkl posted:

How big is the slab?
What are the ground conditions?
Photo might help.

That's how close to a haiku we were.

I lol'ed, but I've received a report notifying me that "photo might help" is only 4 syllables, and that you are breaking the sacred rules of haiku.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
God drat that's embarrassing. Photograph would've done it. Too late now.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Baddog posted:

I lol'ed, but I've received a report notifying me that "photo might help" is only 4 syllables, and that you are breaking the sacred rules of haiku.

barely a haiku
it isn't about nature
it's a senyru

the 'rules' of haiku were generally just guidelines anyway

Deviant fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Nov 9, 2023

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
I'm toying around with running network cable - two drops upstairs, two downstairs. This walkthrough has an illustration that shows the conduit for a power outlet going through a drilled hole in the inner part of a wall.

Can I just... drill holes with a hole saw like that and be OK? Would it do anything negative to structural integrity if I do it wrong? And how would I go about doing it in the second floor without making a gigantic hole in the wall to fit a regular power drill?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

MJP posted:

I'm toying around with running network cable - two drops upstairs, two downstairs. This walkthrough has an illustration that shows the conduit for a power outlet going through a drilled hole in the inner part of a wall.

Can I just... drill holes with a hole saw like that and be OK? Would it do anything negative to structural integrity if I do it wrong? And how would I go about doing it in the second floor without making a gigantic hole in the wall to fit a regular power drill?

I can't seem to find the illustration you're referring to, so I'm assuming it's a picture of them drilling through the bottom plate (wood along the bottom of the wall).

The answer is basically no, you'd probably need a sawzall if you wanted to damage it enough to break it. Just get the hole roughly centered. You'll be ok.

As for the hole, you don't make it small. Just make the hole so you can fit your drill. It's often easier to patch a bigger piece of drywall anyways. If you're really concerned you might look into a variety of angled/flexible bit holders but you're gonna be making your life more difficult for nothing.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


MJP posted:

I'm toying around with running network cable - two drops upstairs, two downstairs. This walkthrough has an illustration that shows the conduit for a power outlet going through a drilled hole in the inner part of a wall.

Can I just... drill holes with a hole saw like that and be OK? Would it do anything negative to structural integrity if I do it wrong? And how would I go about doing it in the second floor without making a gigantic hole in the wall to fit a regular power drill?

Assuming you're going to put your low voltage box into an empty wall cavity, yes you can just punch a hole anywhere and you're not doing structural damage. If you mess up you can just patch the drywall and make a hole somewhere else.

You can cut the hole for your box and use a long flexible drill bit to go through wall plates if you don't have access from underneath, ala https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-Flexible-Drill-Bit-1-2-in-x-54-in/1001867600 (this is not a recommendation for this specific product, just an example). Or, cut a hole in the ceiling/wall underneath and drill upwards.

Struensee
Nov 9, 2011
Always do twice as many drops as you think you need

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Sirotan posted:

Assuming you're going to put your low voltage box into an empty wall cavity, yes you can just punch a hole anywhere and you're not doing structural damage. If you mess up you can just patch the drywall and make a hole somewhere else.

You can cut the hole for your box and use a long flexible drill bit to go through wall plates if you don't have access from underneath, ala https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-Flexible-Drill-Bit-1-2-in-x-54-in/1001867600 (this is not a recommendation for this specific product, just an example). Or, cut a hole in the ceiling/wall underneath and drill upwards.

I had absolutely zero clue that flexible drill bits are a thing. Thank you for this. Dumb question, but if I'm installing from a second floor, and I've flex drilled a hole through the wood (joist? I don't know the exact term, pls forgive), how would I run cable down through another floor into the basement? I'm guessing the answer is "drill the hole in the 2nd floor, drill a hole in the basement directly below it, push the cable through, and hope for the best" but if there's a right way to do it I'm all ears.

I already have an oscillating tool thingy so I might grab a small piece of drywall to practice punching holes in stuff, but this looks like it's actually doable.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MJP posted:

I already have an oscillating tool thingy so I might grab a small piece of drywall to practice punching holes in stuff, but this looks like it's actually doable.

You're cutting one hole. You do not need to learn how to use/control an oscillating tool to do this job. You're just making it harder on yourself if you do.

You need a jab saw: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Standard-Drywall-2014102/dp/B000B3EGN8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=drywall+saw&sr=8-5

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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


MJP posted:

I had absolutely zero clue that flexible drill bits are a thing. Thank you for this. Dumb question, but if I'm installing from a second floor, and I've flex drilled a hole through the wood (joist? I don't know the exact term, pls forgive), how would I run cable down through another floor into the basement? I'm guessing the answer is "drill the hole in the 2nd floor, drill a hole in the basement directly below it, push the cable through, and hope for the best" but if there's a right way to do it I'm all ears.

If you were really lucky you might be able to do that, yes. I think it would be more realistic and less frustrating to think about cutting a hole in your 1st floor wall somewhere under where you want the 2nd floor drop to be, drill up from the basement into that wall cavity, use a fish tape or fish poles to stick something from basement to 1st floor, attach cables to pole/tape, from the 1st floor pull the cable into the room. Then, on the 2nd floor above this wall space, cut your hole into the wall and use the flexible drill bit to drill down into the wall cavity. Now from the 2nd floor, run your fish tape/pole down into the 1st floor and you should be able to grab it from the 1st floor, attach your cable, and then pull it all the way to the 2nd floor.

You could consider adding an additional drop in that 1st floor hole you've made, or just patch it back up once you've got cable to your 2nd floor.

The most important steps are going to be understanding your cable path, making sure you are lined up correctly so you're drilling into the wall space you think you are, and ensuring you are not drilling into anything you shouldn't be (electrical, plumbing, etc).

Sirotan fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Nov 9, 2023

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