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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

thanks. the inspiration strikes me every now and then. but ultimately most of what i paint is for games and those are mostly a chore

sometimes you just see a model that ignites that spark and you just have to paint it right now, turn off your phone and tell everyone to leave you alone because you're painting this thing asap. But finding that muse is different for each of us

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Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

tangy yet delightful posted:

oooo nice I might have to keep an eye out for one and see if I can get one for a good price

lmao "=][= model for a good price" good one

Sea Lily
Aug 5, 2007

Everything changes, Pit.
Even gods.

eyyy i painted my first minis. i'm coming to this from a history of gunpla, so i know like... fundamentals and concepts, but applying them to a different scale is a definite learning process.


just two of the old base set Crisis Protocol guys so far



Iron Man was my first. i did a thin silver layer, red contrast paint over that, then gold (and the lil blue energy bits) on top. and, too heavy drybrushing. i think he looks... okay for a first try. layers on layers on layers get gross much faster here than they do on gunpla which was a learning experience for sure.



then Spidey, who I wanted to do in a more Amazing Fantasy 15 kinda colorscheme, get that debut look with the darker, more muted colors. overzealous drybrushing strikes again but not as bad this time. definitely the better of the two.

but im starting to enjoy this, should be fun to do more.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Silhouette posted:

lmao "=][= model for a good price" good one

The weird repackaged black fortress box that they're selling at Barnes and Noble is $35 for 13 character models. Instant slam buy for me

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Silhouette posted:

lmao "=][= model for a good price" good one

lol yeah I went to ebay after that post and saw one for maybe 40 bucks plus 15 shipping from the UK, then I clicked still thinking "probably won't pay that" and found out it was just for a backpack piece off the model lmao

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I picked up a Masterson's wet palette when I was getting some brushes, and I have no drat idea why they bothered to include palette paper with it. Paper towels and parchment paper work so much better, It's not even funny.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Sea Lily posted:

Iron Man was my first. i did a thin silver layer, red contrast paint over that, then gold (and the lil blue energy bits) on top. and, too heavy drybrushing. i think he looks... okay for a first try. layers on layers on layers get gross much faster here than they do on gunpla which was a learning experience for sure.


Gold also makes a good base for the red contrast paint, gives it a nice warm fire engine red (or at least it works well with the Blood Angels Red contrast), could have saved yourself a layer of silver there. They look pretty decent for a first try, you'll improve fast. Its easy to go too heavy with a drybrush, even intellectually knowing its better to go too light and repeat the drybrushing rather than going too heavy it does take some experience/practice to get it right. Your 10th model will always be better than the first.

If you dont mind a little well intentioned feedback in case you wanted to push these two a little further; If you would be okay with iron man looking a little darker I'd touch up the gold a little* then put a flesh wash over the gold parts and maybe a black or brown wash over the red, just define the armour a little more. For spider-man I'd give the ridge round the eye another quick pass with the black you used on the spider logo. People tend to look most at faces and weapons, and spideys costume doesnt have much going on facial feature wise, so just defining the eye border there (and maybe giving the eye itself another quick blast of white, upping the contrast) will make a big improvement for very little time/effort. Or if you dont feel like that just paint the base rims and call them done, again they arent bad for starting out!

*some gold paints dont cover terribly well, but shake them like they owe you money and do another thin coat or two and they'll generally even out eventually

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Ominous Jazz posted:

I am planning to head to a store tomorrow

Are you in the US? If you are I can send you a couple dozen 3d printed minis for you to practice on. I am just absolutely swimming in them. PM if you want! They would be good quality minis, just ones I have extras of.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Spanish Manlove posted:

The weird repackaged black fortress box that they're selling at Barnes and Noble is $35 for 13 character models. Instant slam buy for me

Fuckin B&N won't send that kit to Canada even though it kind of says they'll ship to Canada. :canada:

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Are you in the US? If you are I can send you a couple dozen 3d printed minis for you to practice on. I am just absolutely swimming in them. PM if you want! They would be good quality minis, just ones I have extras of.

I will take you up on that thank you

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

I feel like GW really nailed the feeling of not being able to tell what the hell kind of color Death Korp Drab is. Just try to guess which parts are it.



Also this is the first time I'm painting anything in two decades, I'm still trying to figure out how to properly thin paint, and probably not even using the brush properly.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
You hold onto the stick part and put the furry part in the paint.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lostconfused posted:

I feel like GW really nailed the feeling of not being able to tell what the hell kind of color Death Korp Drab is. Just try to guess which parts are it.

hard to tell which green it is because it could be either depending on your white balance, but i'd guess the armor and boots. a lot of the paints named after IG regiments are matches to historical military scale model colors. death korps drab is bundeswehr olive green/gelboliv and probably has an RAL number. it's another one of those color mixes that has like three personalities depending on what it's next to

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Nov 11, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's the boots and the neck/head thing.

The armor is castellan green which is, yeah, indistinguishable from death korps drab under the right lighting conditions.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Death Korps Drab does a pretty good job at German Fieldgray in a pinch.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
A bunch of my Vallejo Model Color bottles have seperated after not using them for a while and when after throwing a bead in there and vortex mixing it for a bit I just get coloured water. I don't know if I need to mix it even harder or are these bottles just dead?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Eej posted:

A bunch of my Vallejo Model Color bottles have seperated after not using them for a while and when after throwing a bead in there and vortex mixing it for a bit I just get coloured water. I don't know if I need to mix it even harder or are these bottles just dead?

you can pop off the nipple of the paint bottle pretty easily, to try and stir them directly with an old paintbrush handle or other junk stirrer. if that's no good, donate them to a museum i guess

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I mean I had to pop them open anyway to toss the bead in but I guess I'll poke around and see if i can get some paint

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Eej posted:

I mean I had to pop them open anyway to toss the bead in but I guess I'll poke around and see if i can get some paint
Might want to try adding a tiny bit of thinner/flow improver as well just to help get everything moving off the bottom of the bottle.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Death Korps Drab does a pretty good job at German Fieldgray in a pinch.

:thejoke:

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Well it looks like someone who sold their army to be listed on on eBay already already tried out the scheme I was thinking of (with blue helmets instead of white) and, uh…

Example 1

Example2

I’m not loving it.

I like the idea of Blue and White (Blue shaded), but feel I need a third, since I wanted to reserve white for helmets.

Any ideas?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Professor Shark posted:

Well it looks like someone who sold their army to be listed on on eBay already already tried out the scheme I was thinking of (with blue helmets instead of white) and, uh…

Example 1

Example2

I’m not loving it.

I like the idea of Blue and White (Blue shaded), but feel I need a third, since I wanted to reserve white for helmets.

Any ideas?

Are the Tau just Short Kings or have Space Marines just totally hosed my perspective

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Professor Shark posted:

Well it looks like someone who sold their army to be listed on on eBay already already tried out the scheme I was thinking of (with blue helmets instead of white) and, uh…

Example 1

Example2

I’m not loving it.

I like the idea of Blue and White (Blue shaded), but feel I need a third, since I wanted to reserve white for helmets.

Any ideas?

Here's one of the issues:

I don't really have the vocabulary to explain it, but they've managed to pick a red that's just as bright as the blue, so neither pops.

They're also not complementary colours, the red is just too burgundy purple to sit next to blue. You'd want to replace either the blue with cyan or green, or the red with orange or yellow if you wanted them to stand out from one another.

Mederlock posted:

Are the Tau just Short Kings or have Space Marines just totally hosed my perspective
Yes, but also yes.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Maybe Doombull Brown might be better than the red? It is a reddish brown but more subdued and would allow the blue to be more impactful.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Yeah, maybe going with a lighter brown is a better idea. I’d like to suggest a rustic, rural-ness anyway, as I’ve decided this group is going to be some fringe group who’s heard about the Tau Warp God and worship it alongside the Greater Good mission.

So religious weirdo farmer warriors, basically.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

It's less noticeable how short Tau are when all you see are their big mech boys.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Haven't painted anything for half a year, time to get back in the saddle!



Siivola posted:

Here's one of the issues:

I don't really have the vocabulary to explain it, but they've managed to pick a red that's just as bright as the blue, so neither pops.

They're also not complementary colours, the red is just too burgundy purple to sit next to blue. You'd want to replace either the blue with cyan or green, or the red with orange or yellow if you wanted them to stand out from one another.

Yes, but also yes.

In art terms it's called "Value" which refers to the lightness and darkness of colours.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I’m currently thinking a nice Royal Blue for the fabric, which the Eavy Metal Archive has for their Stormcast, with a Gorthor Brown armor (shaded w Agrax, tided w Gorthor, edged with Baneblade then _____?), with white helmets, red lenses.

Black weapons, grey highlights (or go blue?)

Edit: or brown/ blue reversed?

Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Nov 11, 2023

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

how do you hold miniatures or parts without a base? Is it just wire, tack, and cork?

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Lostconfused posted:

how do you hold miniatures or parts without a base? Is it just wire, tack, and cork?

If there's a large enough flat spot I'll use sticky tack. Otherwise I'll drill a hole in their foot and jam a toothpick or paperclip in it and stab it into a cork.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Lostconfused posted:

how do you hold miniatures or parts without a base? Is it just wire, tack, and cork?

superglue them right to the fingers on my non-dominant hand and rip them off with my teeth when finished, like a real man

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?


I think I might have figured out how to do Trans Hyperion

Sea Lily
Aug 5, 2007

Everything changes, Pit.
Even gods.

finished Cap and Red Skull


Cap's chest star is like. impossible for me to paint cleanly with how unpracticed i am. just a pain in the rear end the way they molded it. tried to give skull's cosmic cube a kind of glowy look and I think I did alright! starting to get a better feel for painting.

and took SiKboy's advice and touched up spidey and iron man. they're definitely looking better now, though i think painting spidey's eyerims might be a battle i just can't quite win.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]





Painted my first 2 Orruk boys from AoS. This is my 3rd model since I've started painting. Wow, you can really see the mistakes when you zoom in for photos. They do look better from afar though....

I'm more confident with contrast paints then I was with the traditional base+wash+highlight system. The models feel like they can take more brushstroke mistakes, especially since I tend to dab into corners instead of sliding the brush across.

I still can't highlight for poo poo, and worry that I will ruin the model if I go all the way. You can see me panicking on the black knee-pad and giving up half way.

Can't figure out how to stop the drybrush from giving the model that "chalk" finish. I really like drybrushing edges because it highlights everything for me without the skill requirement, but it also adds something I don't want. You can really see it with zoomed in photos.

While contrast paints are great, I found that the base/prime coat have to be perfect when working with vibrant lighter colors. You can see the issues on the left foot where the Wraithbone primer wasn't applied fully and some of the grey plastic is showing.

The Boys together:


I tried experimenting with a different yellow on the second model by mixed Nazdreg Yellow with Contrast Medium. Ended up not liking the color as much as the first, so I decided to shade it over with Reikland Flesh. Not a fan of the final texture.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Printed and painted some stuff.

A couple of Guyvers (which I believe is one of those Japanimations the kids like).


And some of the baddies. One of whom has a little bit of pancaking on some spikes, but I decided to live with it instead of resupporting and reprinting.


Group shot because I'd set the background up anyway so why not.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

May I please get a recommended brand & size for a brush that is good for shading / contrast paints?

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Finished my Winged Tyranid Prime, what do you think?





jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


I said come in! posted:

May I please get a recommended brand & size for a brush that is good for shading / contrast paints?
go big imo. you want the option of being able to hold a decent amount of paint in your brush and the 0, 1, 2s of the world don’t cut it. go to art supply shop and grab a size 5 or 6 with a good tip

jesus WEP fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Nov 12, 2023

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

I'm in love with my Citadel STC Base L, it basecoats like a champ. I'm sure it'd be great for contrast as well.

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

I said come in! posted:

May I please get a recommended brand & size for a brush that is good for shading / contrast paints?

Go to a Michaels and buy a set of synthetics that has at least a 10x5 mm sized bristles.

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