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Cessna
Feb 20, 2013

KHABAHBLOOOM

Would that work for other eras, like WWI?

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hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Cessna posted:

Would that work for other eras, like WWI?

yeah, the Nimitz part of the game, at least. in fact iirc someone on the fb group made a bunch of lists for all the major ww1 powers. "Halsey", the campaign part, is really predicated on carriers, efficacy of airplanes for scouting and striking, and other ww2 caveats, so probably wouldn't work as well. but Nimitz can conceivably be a general dreadnaught fight game, maybe with a few very minor tweaks, i'd say

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018

spectralent posted:

Thinking a lot about movement, flanking, and firing ranges atm. I feel like there's a kind of natural problem in this, mechanically, because any form of singular action system - not even IGOUGO but anything where resolution of one unit is resolved before another - there's the prospective chance for a unit to lunge into the side of someone by taking a circuitous route. A lot of ancient and medieval games sort this out by saying "a charge is straight forward", or something equivalent, and that works nicely, but there's an issue with games where firepower is dominant. In most of those, gameplay's simulating close range firefights and tend to give huge fire ranges in comparison to vehicle movement - the chance of lunging into a flank to take advantage of the juicy side armour is ameliorated by the fact it'd take several turns to get there.

But, then there's zoomed out big games. Understandably, these are usually aiming for more parity between movement and fire range - but in a number of them it does mean that anyone who can shoot their target is in immediate danger of being flanked. This seems to be an issue mostly in large-scale WW2 rulesets - it's a possibility in Spearhead and Fistful of TOWs, for instance, but Blucher and ESR also seem to allow units to just lunge through arcs of fire to get to juicy flanks.

But, I'm not sure what the alternative is - I also understand why that happens, because the game is aiming to emphasise the manuever bit over the fire bit - it's part of the appeal of big scale stuff. Thinking on it more I feel like maybe the easiest way to deal with it is adding a reaction fire mechanic of some sort - I do like ESR's threat projection system a lot, and I wonder if that's somewhere to go from it.

I'm probably massively overthinking this.

what's esr?

Cessna
Feb 20, 2013

KHABAHBLOOOM


Et Sans Resultat!

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

Solo Nimitz on the weekend. I did a Savo Island refight. I put the start of the game basically at the moment when the IJN opened fire on the southern group. I put the American picket destroyers on the board, west of Savo, and allowed them to join the fight. I ignored the existence of the USS Jarvis, since it didn't affect the battle at all and was later sunk during the day. I also didnt allow for any eastern forces closer to the troop transports to be present, in the interest of fairness and also because there was never any attempt for them to join irl either. The only change to the rules I made for setup, aside from the initial dispositions, was that the IJN automatically won initiative, and that the USN could only move at "low speed" for turn 1. Apologies for phone pics, my photog guy wasn't around lol

The forces (Topside Miniatures printed on sticker paper at UPS, then stuck to 2 mm thick 3d printed bases):



Initial disposition (quick and dirty islands lol):




Some smattering of random gameplay as the battle progressed:










Regarding the scenario and action itself:
The IJN lost. It was a pyrrhic victory for the us, but a victory nonetheless. If I were to redesign the scenario, I may start the IJN further back to allow for some maneuver, and simply remove the USS Blue and USS Ralph Talbot, to simulate the IJN cruiser force having simply bypassed them without note. That may give the USN an even bigger advantage tho. The IJN really only has the Chokai, and a bunch of other mediocre cruisers, and irl was relying on surprise to do the damage. Basically as soon as the New Orleans class heavies arrived to help southern group, the IJN became badly disadvantaged. The USS Chicago did get some good hits off on Chokai before being sunk (and the Aussie cruiser went down almost right away, as in real life), and US torps failed to do much. But once those well armoured cruisers of north group with 9x 8 inch guns each arrived, well, the Japanese were simply outshot without much means to return the favour. Maybe I should have saved the excellent IJN torpedoes for the northern group, who were much tougher. Fun scenario anyway, may tweak it a bit to run it again with a friend.

Regarding Nimitz:
Really fun, and very tactically interesting, despite being simple and quick. The movement mechanics are brilliant, the interplay between the "move first, shoot first" rule where, obviously you want to shoot first, but you don't really want to move first, makes for interesting considerations. Having to move all the slow ships first, then moderate speed, then high speed, makes it a fun and challenging to predict back and forth with maneuvering to try to outflank the enemy. The movement rules are also not unnecessarily cumbersome but still preserve the philosophy of ship maneuver. It is also very hard to maintain your ships battle line, especially once contacting the enemy, which I appreciate reflects reality. Shooting and torpedoes are handled well, and damage tracking isn't overly complex, not quite Battletech levels (my point of reference for something like this), but maybe not quite as simple as Alpha Strike. I do like the progressive degradation of a ships ability to fight as it takes hits and criticals. But I'd say the most interesting part of the game is the maneuver. In the shooting phase, you can choose any contiguous line of ships to shoot simultaneously, which really encourages you to keep a good battle line, as that means if you're shooting first, you may be able to cripple or sink some enemies before they can return fire.

I need to print some high speed/low speed markers, as I used paper for that this time lol (thats what the H/L markers were). Also some indication of shooting, to make sure ships only get to shoot once (the book recommends cotton puffs), and "flash" markers, which matters for night fighting, which Savo Island was. Maybe I'll make double sided "shot/flash" markers as well. I also think I'll see about printing the individual unit cards and laminating them, so they are reusable.

Great game, will play some more!

drat nice!

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018


:tipshat:

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deadmanshand/dead-mans-hand-redux-2nd-edition-starter-set/

Great Escape are crowdfunding a new edition of Dead Man's Hand. The main reason I'm excited about this is the plastic buildings and street scatter they're offering.

always be closing
Jul 16, 2005
I listened to the guy on a podcast this morning, he really loves the game and is very proud of it. Ive built and painted a few of their models, plastic and metal, for Dead by Lead, and theyre really cool. Im also looking forward to it.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
I've kind of got a hankering for big battle rank-and-flank stuff, ideally early medieval ("dark age") - what's my options there? It seems a bunch of people play Hail Caesar for it or just use the KOW Historicals stuff but I'm assuming there's some hidden gems this thread knows about and I don't. We've got a bunch of 6mm and 28mm viking/saxon stuff for use.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

for rules? the current best DBx derivative is ADLG. and it's really good imo. the rulebook is clearly written and the rules are a logical, playable evolution from DBx. ~20-25 units a side, inf are 2x standard DBx stands, cav are 1

the biggest drawback are the publishers dont make a pdf

hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Nov 12, 2023

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
oh nice i guess i'll-


hot cocoa on the couch posted:

the biggest drawback are the publishers dont make a pdf

WARRRRRRRRGAMEEEEEEEEEERS

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

yeah :(

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

for rules? the current best DBx derivative is ADLG. and it's really good imo. the rulebook is clearly written and the rules and a logical, playable evolution from DBx. ~20-25 units a side, inf are 2x standard DBx stands, cav are 1

the biggest drawback are the publishers dont make a pdf

That's whack because I got v3 by directly emailing the author and paypaling him $5. Well there's also the TFL game Midgard which is in development that's supposed to be a rank & flank game but with fantasy elements. I don't know poo poo about it though and the website is pretty coy on details.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

spectralent posted:

I've kind of got a hankering for big battle rank-and-flank stuff, ideally early medieval ("dark age") - what's my options there? It seems a bunch of people play Hail Caesar for it or just use the KOW Historicals stuff but I'm assuming there's some hidden gems this thread knows about and I don't. We've got a bunch of 6mm and 28mm viking/saxon stuff for use.
Give this a whirl and see how it works. Dirt cheap and uses DBA basing so you can switch systems if it doesn't work for you: https://www.ospreypublishing.com/uk/dux-bellorum-9781849086806/

alg
Mar 14, 2007

A wolf was no less a wolf because a whim of chance caused him to run with the watch-dogs.

Hail Caesar and Black Powder get a ton of hate on the Internet but honestly every time I play them with the club we have a blast.

Cessna
Feb 20, 2013

KHABAHBLOOOM

Old Warhammer Ancient Battles 2.0 with the Shieldwall book is still a lot of fun for big viking-era games.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
This is an insanely niche question but what do you guys do for seats at your game tables? I built a 36" tall gaming table and originally just used some bar stools but might want to get something a little nicer eventually.

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.

spectralent posted:

I've kind of got a hankering for big battle rank-and-flank stuff, ideally early medieval ("dark age") - what's my options there? It seems a bunch of people play Hail Caesar for it or just use the KOW Historicals stuff but I'm assuming there's some hidden gems this thread knows about and I don't. We've got a bunch of 6mm and 28mm viking/saxon stuff for use.
I don't know how big you mean by "big battle," but we've always had a poo poo-ton of fun with Dux Britanniarum.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Springfield Fatts posted:

This is an insanely niche question but what do you guys do for seats at your game tables? I built a 36" tall gaming table and originally just used some bar stools but might want to get something a little nicer eventually.

this house is a standing at the ping pong gaming table house

Endman
May 18, 2010

That is not dead which can eternal lie, And with strange aeons even anime may die


My wife and I play using the kitchen table and we sit on regular dining chairs.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
I kinda prefer bar stools as you get a better view of the table than with regular chairs.

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?


The table top Napoleonic rules I helped play test have been released today on Amazon.

Combined Army list and rules: Glory is Fleeting: Wargames Rules and Army Lists for the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars - has the rules and army list combined in one book.

Rules only

Army lists only. 160 lists and more individual divisions.

All on Amazon.com.au. Amazon.com lists as out of stock at this time when I look at them, but they might show up on whatever your local amazon page is.

Both the rules and army lists are free in PDF format on the Glory is Fleeting Facebook group with a Quick Reference guide sheet and excel army builder too.


Rather topical with the Napoleon movie coming out this month. When I got see it, I'm going to get distracted working out the corps/brigade/unit costs for what's on screen and mentally calculating the dice rolls and how many command points old Nappy is using on the battlefield.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
Can you tell us a bit more about it? What's interesting about it?

Cessna
Feb 20, 2013

KHABAHBLOOOM

Comstar posted:

All on Amazon.com.au. Amazon.com lists as out of stock at this time when I look at them, but they might show up on whatever your local amazon page is.

The rules and lists are on US Amazon; I ordered a copy.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

spectralent posted:

Can you tell us a bit more about it? What's interesting about it?

If you filter by Comstar's posts in here, there's a few AAR posts.

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?

spectralent posted:

Can you tell us a bit more about it? What's interesting about it?

It's a game to play table top miniature battles set in the French Revolution and Napoleonic wars. What more can you want??


I know, I know, there's 100's of rules that do the same thing out there. Here's why I've been playing it:

- It's played a lot in AU and NZ (the writers come from there) at clubs. Rule #1 of wargaming - Play the game someone else locally plays to actually get a game of it.

- The rules and army lists are free in PDF, or you can buy it from Amazon.

- It's played at the brigade/division level. Each player controls 1 corps sized army, of 3-5 divisions with each unit being a brigade of 2-6 bases of troops. A typical game for 2 players will be done in less than 3 hours, which makes it fast and easy to play at a club.

- The 160 army lists cover *everyone* that I see. What to play a US 1812 army from the Canadian front that's fighting a Hyderabad Army 1790-1805 army? Now you can, with one rulebook and one book of army lists. Creating an army from the excel spreadsheet provided is quick and easy. The army lists themselves just limit you to what you can choose, but the major powers all have variants for any strategy. This is the French Army lists (1st number is page number):

139 FRE92A French Armies on the Northern Front 1792-93
140 FRE93A French Armies on the Northern Front 1793-94
141 FRE93B French Army of the Pyrenees 1793-95
142 FRE93C French Republican Forces at Toulon 1793
143 FRE95A French Armies in Germany 1795-97
144 FRE96A French Army of Italy 1796-97
145 FRE98A French Army of the Orient 1798-1801
146 FRE99A French Army of Italy 1799
147 FRE99B French Army of the Danube 1799
148 FRE99C Franco-Batavian Army in the Netherlands 1799
149 FRE99D French Army of the Rhine 1799-1800
150 FRE00A French Army of Italy 1800
151 FRE05A French Infantry Corps d’Armée 1805-07
153 FRE05B French Cavalry Reserve 1805-07
154 FRE05C French Allied Contingents 1805-07
156 FRE05D French Army of Italy 1805
157 FRE08A Bernadotte’s Army of Denmark and Sweden 1808
159 FRE08B French Corps d’Observation and Army of Portugal 1808
161 FRE08C French Army in Spain 1808-12
163 FRE09A French Infantry Corps d’Armée 1809
164 FRE09B French Imperial Guard 1809
165 FRE09C French Reserve Cavalry Corps 1809
166 FRE09D Army of Italy 1809
167 FRE10A Suchet’s Army of Catalonia and Valencia 1810-14
168 FRE12A French Infantry Corps d’Armée 1812
169 FRE12B French Cavalry Reserve Corps 1812
170 FRE12C French Imperial Guard 1812
171 FRE12D French 9th Infantry Reserve Corps 1812
172 FRE12E French 11th Infantry Reserve Corps 1812
173 FRE12F French Army at Berezina 1812
174 FRE13A French Infantry Corps d’Armée Spring 1813
176 FRE13B French Cavalry Corps Spring 1813
177 FRE13C French Imperial Guard Spring 1813
178 FRE13D French Infantry Corps d’Armée Autumn 1813
180 FRE13E French Cavalry Corps Autumn 1813
181 FRE13F French Imperial Guard Autumn 1813
182 FRE13G Davout’s 13th Corps 1813
183 FRE13H French Army in Spain and Southern France 1813-14
184 FRE14A French Infantry Corps 1814
186 FRE14B French Cavalry Corps 1814
187 FRE15A French Infantry Corps, Armée du Nord 1815
188 FRE15B French Reserve Heavy Cavalry Corps, Armée du Nord 1815
189 FRE15C French Imperial Guard, Armée du Nord 1815
190 FRE15D French Armies of the Rhine and the Alps 1815

Granted the units themselves work out to be very close to each other - units have a type, size, elan and training level, but French Guard Infantry brigade works the same way as a Late War Prussian Guard brigade, but the army lists themselves all are subtly different, and you can make dozens of different armies with each single list, but still have the flavor of the era and country. A early war British army will be different from one in the Peninsular and one again at Waterloo.



- It's also very easy to make a historical army list for a real battle, based on the ease of getting OOB's from the internet for most battles and each player would control 2-5 divisions per battle, easily doable in a day.

- Playing with someone who knows the rules, turns are quick and meaningful. Units can double (or force march triple) move early on, but slow down once within cannon and skirmish range, so you don't spend 2/3's of the game marching across the table first. Dice rolls per unit are low (generally 1-5d6 per brigade) hitting on 4+ or 5+ without many modifiers to keep track of.

Though having the QRS is still needed for recalling what moves cost command points to do, the pursuit rules need to be checked every time as it's one of the only flowchart to follow, and modifiers for melee combat with cavalry are a bit too much to remember off the top of my head.

- Terrain placement and choosing your initial strategy are both part of the strategy of setting up. You can pay more points for a better general who is better at position the terrain to their advantage and blocking the enemy general's approaches, but only to some extent. But good general's can cost as much as a division of troops by themselves.

- The battles flow like Napoleonic battles- you might be surprised by the enemy generals out flanking movement, maybe his attack will get bogged down attacking a strongpoint town, but eventually the lines will close, there will be close order fire in line, a cavalry charge or two, and the side with better morale (and luck!) rolls and able to converse a reserve for the decisive point of the battle, will probably win. But it can be a damm close thing sometimes. Other-times I lose and feel like some enemy General engaging Napoleon for the first time as my entire army disintegrates around me.

- Scale doesn't matter if both sides are the same base size, the rules are written for 15mm but work for 5/15/28mm. This is not a skirmish game - brigades fight as brigades and there's only a few formations to choose from (March, line and square). Armies tend to around 30-70 unit bases, so an entire corps fits in one toolbox at 15mm scale.


You can read some of my AAR's and thoughts on MY BLOG.


Did I mention The rules and army lists are free in PDF so you can check it out yourself if you want.

INinja132
Aug 7, 2015

My Great War Lasalle variant is now ready for external testing! You can find the latest copy of Plumer over here: check it out!

It's still pretty early days so feedback is welcome of course, but hopefully any of you looking for a WW1 miniatures game will find something you like in it.

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?
In 2 weeks I am part of a large multiplayer game to refight The battle of Austerlitz. I am going to be centre part of the allied army with 3 infantry divisions and 1 small cavalry division. I have lots of artillery but my infantry and generals won't be as good as the French infantry and commanders.

Anyone done it before, and what should I watch for, beyond being lured to have my units move off the Pratzen heights...or maybe that's what they just want me to do.


The recent Napoleon movie was of no help whatsoever. I guess I should be careful of hidden batteries under sheets, and don't retreat over frozen ponds. The movie's a complete disgrace in everything except the costuming.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Comstar posted:

In 2 weeks I am part of a large multiplayer game to refight The battle of Austerlitz. I am going to be centre part of the allied army with 3 infantry divisions and 1 small cavalry division. I have lots of artillery but my infantry and generals won't be as good as the French infantry and commanders.

Anyone done it before, and what should I watch for, beyond being lured to have my units move off the Pratzen heights...or maybe that's what they just want me to do.


The recent Napoleon movie was of no help whatsoever. I guess I should be careful of hidden batteries under sheets, and don't retreat over frozen ponds. The movie's a complete disgrace in everything except the costuming.

I honestly have no idea what to expect from refighting a battle where a big bluff was a deciding part. That said, a big part of the trap was already sprung when the battle begun, i.e. the battle even happening at all. And if the French can deploy ahistorically, you might run into a different trap. But as the centre, what you should not do is send all your troops away and leave a big gap in the, well, centre. If you can manage that, you're doing better than history.

Be warned that the French forces involved in the battle were good. Really good. Maybe the best drilled troops available in the entire period. But the Russians were also pretty darn good, and you can see that in how they managed to stem the French assault at times. Depending on the scenario maker's idea of this, you might want to avoid your Austrians having to carry too much of the battle on their shoulders, or simply let them exhaust the French until the Russians arrive and can counterattack.

If you want to dig deeper, Goetz book on on Austerlitz is one of my favourite napoleonics book and I'm currently rereading it for what, the third or fourth time.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
Update. Saw Napoleon today. If you resist sending your entire army to attack a bunch of tents on a lake, each one of them with a gogantic french flag on them, you’ll do well as the Austrians.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

15 mm painters. whats your paint time per figure like? wargame standard, preferably. im planning a big painting operation and i think mine is something like 15 mins/fig? but thats painting like 8 or 12 at a time. think if i did 36 or 72 at a time (1-2 full units for this project) i could maybe get down to 10 mins/fig?

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Gonna need more details on the era / army. For something like WW2 armies unless you want to drive yourself insane painting every single strap and bandolier then you can hit that goal no problem. For fancier poo poo like black powder armies or some of the more exotic ancients it could take longer.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

henry turner p&s minis, painted as ECW dudes.



spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
My experience of my 15mm chain of command armies is probably 15mm, maybe even less, for anything that doesn't have camo, but I'm usually cheating with appropriately coloured primers and trusty ol' agrax earthshade.

SpaceViking
Sep 2, 2011

Who put the stars in the sky? Coyote will say he did it himself, and it is not a lie.
I've only ever done my ww2 15mm by assembly line, but it takes about 2 hours and change to paint about 15 models so that averages to about 10 minutes per model. That's ww2 though, where you can spray your models brown or green and half the work is already done.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

SpaceViking posted:

I've only ever done my ww2 15mm by assembly line, but it takes about 2 hours and change to paint about 15 models so that averages to about 10 minutes per model. That's ww2 though, where you can spray your models brown or green and half the work is already done.

:hfive:

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
I've painted 15mm samurai as a commission many years ago. My experience was that painting a few minis of a type didn't save an enormous amount of time compared to 28mm, but that the time gain grew exponentially the more minis I had in each batch. So pretty much like when painting 6mm, but not quite as much.

For something as relatively uniform like those, I think you should be able to lower the time per mini as you get more comportable with them and get more muscle memory. Remember, just because you paint a lot of 28mm minis doesn't mean that those skills will 100% transfer into efficient 15mm painting immediately. It takes some calibration and also experience to know what you can and can't get away with at various scales IMHO. I paint 15mm so rarely that when I do I paint them basically like I paint 28mm. And I am pretty sure a huge amount of that effort is wasted. Or rather, time spent on things that doesn't make as much difference, where I could have gotten away with different, faster, techniques and colour choices.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
This is a crosspost from the painting thread but an example of what you're talking about.

Springfield Fatts posted:

RE: Speedpaint chat

These two models were painted with speedpaints (though in 15mm and done with Vallejo Xpress ones).



The marine on the left was just speedpaint, metals, and I think I did one pass highlighting the white accents. The ork took twice as long, with a wash and highlights of the base colors. These are insanely zoomed in and at tabletop distance the difference is negligible. Guess which method I stopped doing.

If you're doing mass-rank you can get away with even more, I think you'll be fine.

ChubbyChecker
Mar 25, 2018

could you post what the 15 minutes minis look like up close and at gaming distance, i'd be very interested in seeing them

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spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
I've ended up picking up some napoleonic figures because of black friday deals. I've never really had much previous interest in the period from a historical point of view, but I'm interested in it's gaming opportunities, so I really should stress: I know gently caress all about the uniforms and stuff.

That in mind: Is there a visible difference between voltiguers and line infantry, or are both equipped the same and differ in tactics and deployment?

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