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Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

two_beer_bishes posted:

Going to post here too for more exposure: big block race car engine with open headers. I have two mufflers for it that came with the car. I'd like to run it long enough to get it up to temp but I don't want to completely piss off my neighbors. Could I just attach the mufflers right to the headers for this purpose?

where do i read more about this adventure in BigLoud

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Cactus Ghost posted:

where do i read more about this adventure in BigLoud

Check it out HERE! with video on page 2. My wife has a thing for naming all of our cars and we've been struggling with one for this thing, I'll have to run BigLoud by her tonight :2monocle:

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

a mysterious cloak posted:

Having issues with my wife's 2010 Toyota Camry V6.

Last week, she started it first thing in the morning, it immediately ran rough and threw a flashing CEL, so she turned it off and took my car to work. Had it towed to a local Meinecke that's been good to us the last few years, diagnosed with bad coils on 3 and 5. Changed the coils and plugs, all was good.

Yesterday, same deal. Had it towed to Meinecke again, he noted 3 misfires (including #5), and it would being to overheat at idle but not while driving. Found emulsion on the oil cap. Recommending a head gasket plus possible machining at $2500.

The only other trouble she's had with the car is that it had a cracked radiator and popped a coolant hose off while freeway driving this past summer, but again immediately pulled over and had it towed. Haven't had any problems since then until the recent stuff.

Should we just get the gasket done? Only really planning on keeping the car another year, and don't want to invest in a rebuilt/remanufactured engine. The other option I guess is to sell the car/scrap it and buy something else, also something we'd prefer not to do if we can keep this one running.

+1 for more diagnostics required. I would not start that major of a repair on emulsion on the oil cap.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

Admiral Joeslop posted:

Here's the voltage reading on my 2005 Crown Vic. Just had the battery replaced a few days ago and the alternator several months ago. The voltage was this low before my battery died; normally it was closer to 1/3 of the way up the gauge.

So far it's been starting fine but I'm worried the battery is just draining and not recharging.

For this tech Napa "power premium plus" alternator finally solved the issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7e1iH9R5Mv0&t=128s

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Timely topic above: I put a volt-reading gauge in my '65 Econoline, and it barely reads 10-11V. When I was driving back from a car show in the rain with the headlights on (for a couple hours) it seemed to be draining - down to 9-10-volts.

I was concerned, so I replaced the Wal-Mart battery with an Optima AGM red top and replaced the single-wire alternator (with built-in voltage regulator), which was on it when I bought it. Truck does not have, and was not built with, an external voltage regulator. Bought a new Total Power from Amazon since everything I could find was reman.

Well, it reads the same.

I suspected the gauge might be bad or out of adjustment. I put a voltmeter on the battery and it barely reads 12V. With the engine running, there's no appreciable increase in voltage. It doesn't really drop much with the headlights on either, until the engine's shut off - then it drops into the 11s.

I don't know WTF. It starts and runs fine. It doesn't go dead (TBF, it didn't either before I replaced the battery & alt). Before changing out the alternator again, I'm thinking of throwing a charger on the battery and seeing what it reads then.

Based on my experience over the past five decades, I suspect that the alternator is crap. That video you posted is not helping to change my mind.

e: NAPA has nothing for me but remans

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Nov 10, 2023

Network42
Oct 23, 2002
Anyone had a car shipped before? Seriously considering an internet car sight unseen but we're starting to get some good snow and I wouldn't really want to fly and drive it if the roads are gross. Any good experiences or horror stories?

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Sent you a PM with the shipping broker I use. Get a PPI and ideally fly out to test drive and look it over.

Network42
Oct 23, 2002
It's an RX7 in Omaha Nebraska, I don't think there's anyone who going to be able to do a proper PPI sadly.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Don't buy any car without a test-drive or at the very least a ppi... Any shop can do a PPI they don't have to be rotary specialists.

Really though unless you live in Antarctica I cannot understand why this is the best car buying option.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Nov 10, 2023

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Network42 posted:

It's an RX7 in Omaha Nebraska, I don't think there's anyone who going to be able to do a proper PPI sadly.

Omaha has a population of almost 500,000. It's not the middle of nowhere. There's going to be lots of people competent to do a PPI. Finding one will be a problem if you're not familiar with the city, though.

You could just take it to a Mazda dealership.

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.â€Â
There are decent deals to be had at the bottom of the market, you just need to be patient, persistent, and lucky trawling through craigslust/facebook, or else know older people who are not internet savvy enough to figure out how insane the car market has gotten insane. I've bought/found for others 3 cars in this market under $4k, and all have been solid, 1/2 owner cars with no accident histories and at least some service records. Each one was on craigslist for less than 8 hours when I found them, and I saw them in-person within 48 hours of contacting them, and either bought without a PPI (risky) or put down a deposit for them to hold the car.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

VelociBacon posted:

Don't buy any car without a test-drive or at the very least a ppi...

I bought my current daily driver based entirely on some photos posted here, but that's not always a winning strategy.


Network42 posted:

It's an RX7 in Omaha Nebraska, I don't think there's anyone who going to be able to do a proper PPI sadly.

Omaha is known for good steak. Fly out, test drive the car, eat your weight in steak, and have it shipped back.

Network42
Oct 23, 2002
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1993-mazda-rx-7-us-can-24/

It's a fairly well documented car, I'm not trying to buy a craigslist beater off 3 cellphone pictures, just so we're clear.

no lube so what
Apr 11, 2021

Network42 posted:

It's an RX7 in Omaha Nebraska, I don't think there's anyone who going to be able to do a proper PPI sadly.

SCCA nationals for solo/autocross is out of Lincoln Nebraska every year.

https://nrscca.com/site/index.php/programs/autocross-solo

Maybe reach out to them and see if they can connect you with a competent person to do PPI?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

That much money makes it even more reasonable to fly out and test drive it. Car looks good though, don't fully agree with the value/price but I can understand how it would be worth it to some.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

What happened in the last 40 years to make the baseline shitbox stereo systems sound so phenomenally better? Is it just better components, or are they tuning these to the space somehow, or something else?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

cruft posted:

What happened in the last 40 years to make the baseline shitbox stereo systems sound so phenomenally better? Is it just better components, or are they tuning these to the space somehow, or something else?

Miniaturization leading to better, cheaper, more reliable components. High-quality sound systems were a selling point on high-end models, then the components gradually crept down to base models just for ease of manufacture, less a few speakers.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Even the materials used are so much better than they used to be. I remember replacing the paper cone speakers in my 89 240sx for example.

The other side of this is that it's actually a much bigger pain in the rear end to upgrade or supplement car audio these days, everything has amps in weird places, non standard head unit sizing, etc.

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




VelociBacon posted:

That dash thing doesn't really mean much diagnostically, you need to put a multimeter across the terminals of the battery (or to the +ve on the battery and ground) with the car off as well as with the car idling and let us know what you get.

This morning the gauge was basically at 0 while driving and the car just barely started at my first stop of the day. I decided to drive home to swap to my daughter's car. The gauge went back to a "normal" spot and started just fine when I got home. It rested at home for about ten hours, and I was able to start it just fine twice now and the gauge was at the usual spot.

I also got a multimeter and these readings:

-Car off was 11.90
-Car running was 13.05~
-Left it running about five minutes and was still at 13.05 running, and 12.26 when off.

I don't really know what this means or why it's suddenly working again.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
For lead acid that is dead as gently caress during the conditions of:


Admiral Joeslop posted:

-Car off was 11.90

-Left it running about five minutes, and 12.26 when off.

12.2V is 0% charge. 12.8ish Volts is about where it should sit after it is fully charged.

The alternator is trying to make up the difference under the following:


Admiral Joeslop posted:


-Car running was 13.05~
-Left it running about five minutes and was still at 13.05.


A good working alternator should have the output around 14.2V with no accessories on.


So.
If you haven't hauled the battery in to have it thoroughly charged, do so.
If you have. The battery is of no use. Throw it into the ocean and get a new one.
With a fresh good hot battery and the Voltage is still hovering around 13.05V there is an issue with the alternator itself, its grounding or power cables, or there's a pile of accessories turned on and the measurement is taken at idle. Sometimes belt slippage is a thing but that's a remnant of the poly-v days.

Do all of this before the alternator battery starter suicide pact has a chance to happen.

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




That IS with a fresh battery. Wonder if the place that did the alternator however many months ago would even give a poo poo if I told them.

Need to figure out if it's just the lovely terminal connection, which seems pretty likely too. Guess I'll be looking for an OEM part

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

please do not throw lead-acid batteries into the ocean

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is there a way to find out what other model-years have the same part you need to help you find it in a junkyard?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

NotNut posted:

Is there a way to find out what other model-years have the same part you need to help you find it in a junkyard?

car-part.com does a bit of both finding interchange and parts available in your area. Otherwise, I think staying within a generation of any given model is a pretty good approach. Checking part numbers on rockauto.com would be another.

Which way is best will depend on what you’re looking for.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

nitsuga posted:

car-part.com does a bit of both finding interchange and parts available in your area. Otherwise, I think staying within a generation of any given model is a pretty good approach. Checking part numbers on rockauto.com would be another.

Which way is best will depend on what you’re looking for.

Thanks. Is there a way to find which junkyards do and don't have their parts listed there?

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



Cactus Ghost posted:

please do not throw lead-acid batteries into the ocean

It’s a safe and legal thrill

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

NotNut posted:

Thanks. Is there a way to find which junkyards do and don't have their parts listed there?

I don’t think so, but it’s turned up results from all over my state and the surrounding area, so it seems to be a wide network. The results do say where the part is, so you can tell who is on there to some degree.

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




cursedshitbox posted:

For lead acid that is dead as gently caress during the conditions of:

12.2V is 0% charge. 12.8ish Volts is about where it should sit after it is fully charged.

The alternator is trying to make up the difference under the following:

A good working alternator should have the output around 14.2V with no accessories on.


So.
If you haven't hauled the battery in to have it thoroughly charged, do so.
If you have. The battery is of no use. Throw it into the ocean and get a new one.
With a fresh good hot battery and the Voltage is still hovering around 13.05V there is an issue with the alternator itself, its grounding or power cables, or there's a pile of accessories turned on and the measurement is taken at idle. Sometimes belt slippage is a thing but that's a remnant of the poly-v days.

Do all of this before the alternator battery starter suicide pact has a chance to happen.

Fixed up the kludged terminals which are nice and tight now, voltage while running hit about 12.35 and dropped pretty quickly. A couple times I noticed something would turn on and the voltage would go back up but start dropping again, I assume that was the alternator. Seemed to occur after using the power windows.

Anyway, I have an appointment on Tuesday with the place that put the alternator in so hopefully they figure it out and it's an easy fix. This thing has 177k miles on it and basically all the problems I've had with it started this year when I had to start driving a lot more because of a new job :negative:

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003



:siren::siren::siren:AI:SS 2023 - Late But Not Forgotten:siren::siren::siren:

I'm running it this year to give slothrop a well-deserved break:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4047118

This is a pretty late start and the deadlines are tighter, so don't dilly-dally.

Well Played Mauer
Jun 1, 2003

We'll always have Cabo

Cactus Ghost posted:

please do not throw lead-acid batteries into the ocean

This is correct. Lead acid is supposed to be dumped in freshwater bodies of water like your local lake or river. Lithium ion is what goes into saltwater. Sodium ion, given its nature, goes into estuaries.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Lake Powell, please. It needs your help, via batteries

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



PainterofCrap posted:

Timely topic above: I put a volt-reading gauge in my '65 Econoline, and it barely reads 10-11V. When I was driving back from a car show in the rain with the headlights on (for a couple hours) it seemed to be draining - down to 9-10-volts.

Update: I took my nephew out for a manual/column-shift lesson yesterday afternoon, and the battery died. So, in addition, he learned the utility of jump-starting a manual when you are in the middle of nowhere.

Battery read 11.6V / 12% on the charger. Left it over night; started & ran the alternator test feature & it failed.

Have requested a replacement from the seller on Amazon. I'm then taking the replacement to AutoZone for a bench test before I go through the joy of replacing it. If it's also bad, suppose I'll try RockAuto or Summit.

I suppose I could bench-test it myself with the Dewalt alternator-test feature while spinning it with a drill?

Organ Fiend
May 21, 2007

custom title
Car in question is a 2018 Dodge Charger R/T (V8, RWD, Blacktop edition, if it matters).

I'm looking to replace the tires; they're at the end of their lifespan. They're all stock with stock rims. One tire (rear passenger side) was recently replaced (like a month and a half ago) due to running over a nail. Tires are 20'' 245/45-20 99V. This is a daily driver and I have no intention of tracking it, so stock or better is fine.

I have a garage that will change the tires. I want to order the tires online, ship them or deliver them to the garage myself and get them installed. I have a few questions:

- I've used Tire Rack before, but I've been able to find better prices at another wholesaler (Prioritytire.com). Is this a wholesaler to avoid, or is there a 'white list' of wholesalers I should buy from?

- Price is an issue, so I was thinking to buy only 3, since one is only 1.5 months old. Are there any issues with mixing brands (i.e. buy 3 tires with the same specs, but from different brands), or do I need to buy 3 of the same, or 4 of a kind?

- Regarding the 1.5 month old tire, is it a good/bad idea to keep a full spare around? If buying 4 tires was advisable, I was thinking about buying a cheap rim and keeping the 1.5 month old tire around as a full spare.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

if it has a limited slip and there's much difference in diameter between the new and the used tire that could maybe make things screwy? but even that is solved by just putting the 45-day-old one up front

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Organ Fiend posted:

Car in question is a 2018 Dodge Charger R/T (V8, RWD, Blacktop edition, if it matters).

I'm looking to replace the tires; they're at the end of their lifespan. They're all stock with stock rims. One tire (rear passenger side) was recently replaced (like a month and a half ago) due to running over a nail. Tires are 20'' 245/45-20 99V. This is a daily driver and I have no intention of tracking it, so stock or better is fine.

I have a garage that will change the tires. I want to order the tires online, ship them or deliver them to the garage myself and get them installed. I have a few questions:

- I've used Tire Rack before, but I've been able to find better prices at another wholesaler (Prioritytire.com). Is this a wholesaler to avoid, or is there a 'white list' of wholesalers I should buy from?

- Price is an issue, so I was thinking to buy only 3, since one is only 1.5 months old. Are there any issues with mixing brands (i.e. buy 3 tires with the same specs, but from different brands), or do I need to buy 3 of the same, or 4 of a kind?

- Regarding the 1.5 month old tire, is it a good/bad idea to keep a full spare around? If buying 4 tires was advisable, I was thinking about buying a cheap rim and keeping the 1.5 month old tire around as a full spare.

I'd doubt it has a full sized spare or I'd say use it for that. If its only a month and a half old its should be fine. How many mile have you put on it since you got it. There should be an odometer reading on the invoice for the tire. If its only a couple hundred miles I wouldn't worry at all. It can stay on whichever corner its on.

Organ Fiend
May 21, 2007

custom title

Cactus Ghost posted:

if it has a limited slip and there's much difference in diameter between the new and the used tire that could maybe make things screwy? but even that is solved by just putting the 45-day-old one up front

I mean, there's a far bigger gap in handling between the three old tires and the new tire, than there would be with any new tires of the same size/rating, and I'm not noticing any handling issues, though I have been playing it extra careful in the rain. These tires should have been replaced a while ago.

I'll ask the garage to rotate the 45 day old tire up front though.

wesleywillis posted:

I'd doubt it has a full sized spare or I'd say use it for that. If its only a month and a half old its should be fine. How many mile have you put on it since you got it. There should be an odometer reading on the invoice for the tire. If its only a couple hundred miles I wouldn't worry at all. It can stay on whichever corner its on.

It doesn't. In fact it didn't even come with a donut; just this leak repair kit (which kind of pissed me off and had me smacking my head for not checking when I bought it). What I was saying was that I could buy another, cheaper rim, and have the garage put the 45 day old tire on that, and then keep the rim w/ inflated tire on it as a full spare.

That said, I was only really considering this because Tire Rack was offering significant discounts when ordering a set of 4. However, I've found other wholesalers, like PriorityTire, that sell at well bellow the discount rate (like $250 on Tire Rack vs $100).

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Organ Fiend posted:

I mean, there's a far bigger gap in handling between the three old tires and the new tire, than there would be with any new tires of the same size/rating, and I'm not noticing any handling issues, though I have been playing it extra careful in the rain. These tires should have been replaced a while ago.

I'll ask the garage to rotate the 45 day old tire up front though.

It doesn't. In fact it didn't even come with a donut; just this leak repair kit (which kind of pissed me off and had me smacking my head for not checking when I bought it). What I was saying was that I could buy another, cheaper rim, and have the garage put the 45 day old tire on that, and then keep the rim w/ inflated tire on it as a full spare.

That said, I was only really considering this because Tire Rack was offering significant discounts when ordering a set of 4. However, I've found other wholesalers, like PriorityTire, that sell at well bellow the discount rate (like $250 on Tire Rack vs $100).

Really? I know that manufacturers are........... Aw gently caress it. Doesn't surprise me, they're cheap as gently caress..

Do whatever is cheapest. If buying a set of 4 works out to be cheaper than 3 go for it and keep the old one. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry the least bit about having a tire thats been in service for a month and a half longer than the others unless your daily commute is like 100 miles or something.

I'd be more worried about the ABS, traction control, stability control etc freaking out from having 3 worn out tires and one new one, than just the limited slip (which is probably electronically controlled anyway) acting funny. But if you haven't had any warning lights come on since you replaced the one tire then its not likely to be an issue regardless of which corner your (soon to be) "old" tire goes on once you replace the others.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Organ Fiend posted:

Are there any issues with mixing brands (i.e. buy 3 tires with the same specs, but from different brands), or do I need to buy 3 of the same, or 4 of a kind?

You definitely do want the same brand and model tires on the car, don't have like 3 michelins and one hankook on there. You need the two tires on each side of the vehicle to perform the same in wet conditions, emergency braking and cornering, etc. If you absolutely have to mix and match it should at least be matching fronts and matching rears.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Leperflesh posted:

You definitely do want the same brand and model tires on the car, don't have like 3 michelins and one hankook on there. You need the two tires on each side of the vehicle to perform the same in wet conditions, emergency braking and cornering, etc. If you absolutely have to mix and match it should at least be matching fronts and matching rears.

Me and the other goon did ignore this didn't we?

But yes what this goon said. Same make/model of tire is best.

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sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Is there a thread to talk about derby/fig8 racing?

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