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We did it. I guess the Tucson did it. A little trouper. I'm not a gambling kind of girl, so it was kind of nervewracking, and I was sure we would hit a moose or a bear or something in the last ten miles, but we actually only saw one bobcat in the whole trip. Maybe the deer are lying low tonight. Oddly, we filled the tank for the first time since the tank with the fuel injector cleaner, drove maybe sixty miles, turned it off to rest for a bit and use the bathroom, checked the oil and belt, and when we moved on, the squealing was still there, but noticeably less. It seemed to have less trouble climbing hills, too, but we kept it down to 55, so maybe not a fair comparison. It feels like either we burned out all the fuel injector cleaner or else that was a bad tank of gas, but we can't figure out for the life of us how that could possibly have resulted in a squealing noise. I'll post here again when we find out what the heck is going on.
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Nov 16, 2023 04:15
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Another goon success story!!
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Nov 16, 2023 15:20
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Sounds like you may have picked up some crud on the belt. Also a dying belt tensioner. As the bearing on them goes, sometimes the sound comes & goes before the pulley section freezes up &/or yeets off.
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Nov 16, 2023 15:59
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Yeah, I have no idea. They're going to look at it tomorrow. I can' t believe it just went hundreds and hundreds of miles for us, whatever is wrong. It'll probably turn out to be a stick stuck in the undercarriage that we somehow failed to notice or a squirrel trapped in the AC or something.
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Nov 16, 2023 19:26
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guaranteed posted:a squirrel trapped in the AC Conker's
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Nov 16, 2023 20:21
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Howdy, car friends. My 2013 Chevy Spark, which you helped guide me towards and also likely saved me a couple grand on in the process, has been a loving champ of a car. Guess what? When you have a car that doesn't suck, you'll actually drive it a hell of a lot more! That said, there is one issue with the car I'm going to eventually fix. It really appears that my rear defroster doesn't work. Last I checked, the reliable dealership where I get most service done wants $170 to diagnose problems that aren't upfront. I know from googling around, quite a few different things could be wrong and I don't know what to expect. Nor if $170 to figure out a problem like that is reasonable. All that said, what would be my worst case scenario price for a rear windshield plus labor? I'm trying to budget and it's the holidays. ( I know y'all can't give something exact, I'm just trying to figure out the territory I'm in for a non-urgent repair. )
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Nov 16, 2023 22:13
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Unless the heat strips are physically damaged, I don't think a replacement window is going to fix anything. Start with the fuse and/or relay associated with that circuit.
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Nov 16, 2023 22:15
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You can get a thing called a circuit tester and use it to see where the flow of electricity is stopping, I'll find a video. https://youtu.be/R0ZKoK_x6XM?si=pi70boY0yb8bl3rK Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Nov 16, 2023 |
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Nov 16, 2023 22:30
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Defroster grid damage is something you should be able to physically see - broken line in the grid, or the wiring that connects the grid to the rest of the car has pulled off the glass. Being on a budget means the best way to save money, by far, is thorough diagnostics.
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Nov 16, 2023 22:38
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Every single row on my Fit failed, but I don't think that's a common problem (it had tint installed by the PO so maybe they hosed it up). Usually I've seen just a few lines that don't work. So I'd say this is a possibility but probably less likely than the switch, fuse or wiring. But diagnosing it should be super easy with a multimeter so definitely try that first.
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Nov 16, 2023 23:10
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Stupid car, stupid question! I have a 2006 Kia Sorento (European market, in case that makes a difference), where the central / remote door lock is acting up. Sometimes when unlocking it with the remote, the blinkers flash and there is some kind of clicking noise (though less of it than normal), but the doors don't actually unlock. I can unlock the front doors with the key to get in, and it starts and drives like normal. However, all the doors are "extra locked" and cannot even be unlocked/opened from the inside (unless I've unlocked that door with the key). The lock button on the drivers door does the same thing, stuff goes "click" but doesn't unlock. Sometimes I can lock and unlock a few times and it suddenly works, or give up and drive away and try it again later, and it works fine. This happened a few times in the past year (and was usually fixed by just pressing lock and unlock once again) but lately it is happening more and more often, and being increasingly stubborn to get to work again. It's even gone so far that I checked the owners manual! It mentions there is some kind of "super-lock mode" where you press the lock button on the remote for 3 seconds (or turn the key in the lock for 3s), which makes the doors impossible to open from the inside. This kinda matches what's going on, but I definitely don't press the button that long. Also it should still unlock with a regular button press on the remote, and long-pressing it doesn't make any difference. It's not the remote battery. It was low a couple years ago, and that just led to the typical "bad radio range" issues where it just didn't trigger anything. The lights reliably flash when pressing the button, and locking works every time. I also don't think it's any of the individual lock actuators in the doors, as it happens on all five locks at once and never just some of them. Also it should unlock all the doors using the key in the door lock as well, but it doesn't do that either (have not tried that when stuff is "working normally" though). What is going on? What stuff do I need to whack with how big of a hammer? If it's this "super-lock mode" that causes it, can that somehow be disabled?
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Nov 17, 2023 00:38
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Sounds like a bad ICM relay.
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Nov 17, 2023 08:55
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Powershift posted:Sounds like a bad ICM relay. The relays in the engine bay don't have anything lock-related, and I don't have any complete wiring diagrams that shows this stuff in any useful detail. There's supposed to be a door lock relay, but I have no good information on where. Some sources say it should be behind the panel at the driver side door (though that may be for a different generation Sorento, or a Sportage, or who knows). I only thought I saw fuses in there, but I'll have to look closer. Also I apparently have an "ETACS module" (which is the thing that controls a bunch of things including this relay). I hope that isn't the problem, it seems horrible to get to and I don't know if replacements even exist.
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Nov 17, 2023 14:29
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Jack B Nimble posted:You can get a thing called a circuit tester and use it to see where the flow of electricity is stopping, I'll find a video.  You all are the best, and continue to save me cash. If I'm able to sort it myself, I'll let everyone know. And from what I can tell, it's the entirety of the defrosters not working rather than a couple rows.
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Nov 17, 2023 14:30
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ionn posted:Stupid car, stupid question! I do not know if this is also A Thing with Kias, but my sister's '04 Honda CR-V had a similar issue where the door locks only functioned intermittently, and the passenger front door, not at all. It turned out that the door lock solenoid on the driver's door also controlled the operation of all of the others, and when it went wonky, they all did. I solved it by replacing the driver's door lock solenoid assembly.
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Nov 17, 2023 15:57
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Captain Log posted:
e: I'm so dumb I was looking at a different poster's issue and looking up their car with your complaint- sorry! VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Nov 17, 2023 |
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Nov 17, 2023 18:11
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ionn posted:The relays in the engine bay don't have anything lock-related, and I don't have any complete wiring diagrams that shows this stuff in any useful detail. There's supposed to be a door lock relay, but I have no good information on where. Some sources say it should be behind the panel at the driver side door (though that may be for a different generation Sorento, or a Sportage, or who knows). I only thought I saw fuses in there, but I'll have to look closer. The ICM relay controls the door locks, heated seats, and rear wiper. It should be under the dash above the fuse box and look like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1615880538 This is for LHD vehicles, i don't know how they differ. #28 https://www.kiapartsnow.com/genuine/kia-relay-i-c-m~911103e880.html  It seems to be quite hard to get to but there's a wiring diagram printed on the back of it if you have x-ray vision. The last post here details how they removed it. https://www.kiaownersclub.co.uk/threads/central-locking-help.10127/
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Nov 17, 2023 18:17
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Alright, after watching some Youtube videos linked by y'all, let me see if I've got my diagnostic lined up before ordering tools - - Check Fuse - Check individual elements on glass with multimeter My question would be if the complete failure of the entirety of the defroster changes this at all.
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Nov 17, 2023 21:58
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Captain Log posted:Alright, after watching some Youtube videos linked by y'all, let me see if I've got my diagnostic lined up before ordering tools - Yes. In that case, the grid on the window may be fine. The problem may be that it's not getting any power.
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Nov 17, 2023 22:15
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Powershift posted:The ICM relay controls the door locks, heated seats, and rear wiper. It should be under the dash above the fuse box and look like this. I found something on, of course, the Russian Kia Owners club website: http://sorento.kia-club.ru/Repair_manual/download/DOWN/BL%20ETACS.pdf It calls the actual controller thing the ETACS module, and shows some wiring diagrams to what looks like fairly regular relays. Dear Kia, why can't you use regular relays instead of some all-the-relays-in-one-unit abomination... Even so, if I can find the wires/pins for the faulty one I could just splice and bypass and stick a regular relay nearby instead (would be easier if that diagram had any color markings, gonna take a lot of probing and testing to figure that one out). Powershift posted:The ICM relay controls the door locks, heated seats, and rear wiper. It should be under the dash above the fuse box and look like this. Buying that from the UK would get closer to 90 euromonies with the customs related crap. There are a few other places inside the EU, but only marginally cheaper. At least I know what to look for, if it turns out that is the part to replace. One would hope they relay thing isn't different between regular and mirrored cars, but who knows. The same part number seems to exist outside the UK as well, so there's at least that. If I feel cheap, I might try to find which pins in that module are for specifically the unlock relay, and splice in a normal relay instead. Though I don't think I'm quite that cheap, nor very enthusiastic about spending too much effort on this shitbox. The thing is up on the lift right now for unrelated reasons (Rust! lovely patch welding, bondo and spray-on monkey feces underbody coating galore!) so I can't even get the door open enough to peek behind that panel, but at least I have something to dig into. Thanks! PainterofCrap posted:I do not know if this is also A Thing with Kias, but my sister's '04 Honda CR-V had a similar issue where the door locks only functioned intermittently, and the passenger front door, not at all. It turned out that the door lock solenoid on the driver's door also controlled the operation of all of the others, and when it went wonky, they all did. I solved it by replacing the driver's door lock solenoid assembly. This is exactly the kind of shenanigans that will disappoint but not surprise me. I guess I can pop the door card off and unplug the drivers door solenoid and see if the other ones still do what they're supposed to (when anything does what it is supposed to, which still does happen). And if this seems to be a solenoid problem and not a relay problem, dig into all four doors and measure/test them out individually. Oh, the fun to be had.
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Nov 17, 2023 23:52
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I have a '65 Ford Econoline pickup. It is motivated by an inline 6. The truck does not have an external voltage regulator, but uses a 1-wire with an internal regulator in the alternator. The unit that came with the truck in '21 seems to have died. I suspect it was not working properly; the voltmeter I installed always read at or below 12V, around 10 with the headlights on, but it never went dead on the Wal-mart battery it was on for two years (which it would have after a couple months, as it sat idle quite a bit) About a month ago, I replaced the battery with an Optima AGM and a reconditioned 1-wire alternator. The voltmeter never changed, and the truck died this past Saturday as I was giving a manual lesson on it (3-4 stalls & restarts is all i got). As with the previous unit, I checked it with a hand-held voltmeter & got about 12V, no change upwards with the motor running. poo poo bad alternator. So they sent me another one. Same. Took it to AutoZone and it failed. So I bought a Duralast Gold brand-new unit from Auto Zone. Installed it today; no change. I took it to AutoZone, and they tested it, It failed. But the guy said that he couldn't test 1-wire units...he rooted around in the plug drawer for the tester, and came out with a lead that he hooked up to the field lug. Suddenly, it worked. Noted that when the last one was tested, that they did not hook up more than the 1-wire. He said I needed to hook the field lug up to the exciter wire, to get the alternator to turn on. I do not have any other wires laying in the engine bay. The Econoline is a simple beast. So I look online, and see stuff about hooking it up to a 500W DC motor (no have). Then there was a post on a Ford website about jumping the field terminal to the (+) terminal. Either permanently, or momentarily, to generate a field. As this post amply demonstrates, I am no electronics genius, but connecting lugs on the back of an alternator sounds like it would probably kill it. Is it really as simple as that, or should I return it & get yet another unit that is described as "self-exciting?" PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Nov 18, 2023 |
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Nov 18, 2023 01:49
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kind of dumb question. are you spinning the engine up to like 1500-2000rpm and measuring Voltage or just dead start to a idle and measure? 1 wire alternators do not start charging till the engine speed has been bumped a good bit over idle for a sec or so. External exciting systems like the externally regulated 1G use one more wire to figure that out. switched ignition but it usually goes through a charge indicator bulb. The battery light. but at that point just go 3g internally regulated but externally excited. Like from a 90s Taurus. The 1Gs aren't great nor is its control system. Putting unswitched 12V to the field terminal turns the alternator 'on' and like on-on. The regulator controls the Voltage output by varying the field. You're bypassing that.
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Nov 18, 2023 02:16
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I've run it at over 2000RPM for a few minutes. High idle without kicking it down. No change no matter where I measure (I prefer straight off of the alternator's 12v (+) lug) Soooo...it sounds like I should be running a switched 12v to the field lug? I have a line running to an electric choke from a switched lug on the relay; I could tap off of that? What about running a little jumper between the field lug & the 12v output? I prefer that elegance - they're right next to each other - if it'll do no other harm. e: watching videos, it appears that I should run a wire from the field lug to a switched 12V source. I'm going to test this with one of the units I was going to return. e2: I have excited the field, and it now works great, so I ran a 15A fused line for it. Wondering if I should install a bulb as a cheap diode. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Nov 18, 2023 |
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Nov 18, 2023 03:35
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2011 Toyota Highlander My mother in law’s car needs the front lower control arms and ball joints replaced. The dealer quoted $3600 for the job ($2500 for the arms and $1100 for the ball joints) which seems completely insane. I looked up the parts and they should be about $450 total. Plus I’m thinking maybe 4-5 hours labor should still put her under $1500 total for the whole job. Does that seem realistic?
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Nov 18, 2023 18:36
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Bouillon Rube posted:2011 Toyota Highlander Pretty sure that's the era of K platform where the subframe has to be dropped to get the LCAs out. It's sort of quasi possible to do it without dropping the engine/transmission/subframe/etc but it's not fun. I would advise against a driveway diy. Welcome to post '00s Toyota.
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Nov 18, 2023 18:46
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cursedshitbox posted:Pretty sure that's the era of K platform where the subframe has to be dropped to get the LCAs out. It's sort of quasi possible to do it without dropping the engine/transmission/subframe/etc but it's not fun. I would advise against a driveway diy. Did lower arm bushings on a similar era Camry and when I looked up the job step 1 was remove engine and trans. I was able to unbolt the motor mounts and jack it up enough to get the captured bolts out but the book time for the job was something insane like 12 hours.
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Nov 18, 2023 20:02
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OP call local independent shops and get quotes for that work. You aren't supposed to take your car to the dealership when it's out of warranty, it's going to be much more expensive there.
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Nov 18, 2023 20:05
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What the gently caress? For that price I’d rather try to press out the ball joints and saying gently caress the bearings. Drop the entire subframe? Engine and trans just to gently caress with a lower control arm bushing? People love to poo poo on domestic cars, but I have never run into this dumbshittery in all my years loving with GM shitboxes. Toyota was supposed to make fixable cars.
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Nov 19, 2023 03:21
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Does anyone know where I could get things similar to these but just black without the carbon fiber or patterns? I'm not big textures. https://www.amazon.com/XmuxHai-Protector-Universal-Automotive-Scratches/dp/B0BN5D5VNR/ https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Scratches-Protector-Non-Marking-Protective-Universal/dp/B09WDB6CY9/
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Nov 20, 2023 03:27
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Toyota never made fixable cars, they made cars that never needed fixing. Subaru makes fixable cars. They really do think of serviceability on them. Things like accessible bolts, 10mm everything, and that beautiful oil filter on the top.
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Nov 20, 2023 03:44
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0toShifty posted:Toyota never made fixable cars, they made cars that never needed fixing. a Toyota can credibly reach 300k+ miles with minimal, if any, serious intervention or maintenance, but a Subaru will all but require it to reach that mileage
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Nov 20, 2023 04:09
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0toShifty posted:Toyota never made fixable cars, they made cars that never needed fixing. ftfy ;-)
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Nov 20, 2023 05:22
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Ethics_Gradient posted:ftfy ;-) How else are you going to keep the oil galleries cool?
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Nov 20, 2023 05:42
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I'm dealing with a new parasitic drain after getting my car back from the shop where I had various suspension and etc serviced. I'm going to call them tomorrow morning about that part. I'm here to ask about whether or not I can save a battery with a trickle charger. So it's a new-refurb battery, lead acid, not AGM or anything. It's a group 48 if that's important, they're fairly large for a passenger car. After work it barely started, I drove home (about 30 min) and when I parked it and checked it with my multimeter it was reading 10.62v in the car with it off. With the car running it's getting 14.35v across the terminals so it should be charging. It actually starts the car at 10.62v which I find incredible (it's a low compression turbo 2L, 2007 GTI). I pulled the battery so it wouldn't drain any more and checked the voltage out of the car and it was reading 10.72v. Brought it up to my condo and put it on my patio now. I ordered a 10A 12v trickle charger type thing which I probably just should have around anyways. What are the chances of my being able to save this battery? It doesn't get that cold here (Vancouver) so I'm not super worried about CCA. I was under the impression that 10.50v was essentially fully discharged.
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Nov 20, 2023 06:52
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VelociBacon posted:I'm dealing with a new parasitic drain after getting my car back from the shop where I had various suspension and etc serviced. I'm going to call them tomorrow morning about that part. I'm here to ask about whether or not I can save a battery with a trickle charger. There's no guarantees but being down to 10 volts isn't bad at all. A trickle charger should be able to top it up. I have a battery tender branded one I use for this kind of thing now and then and it does a good job. As in the name, it doesn't charge the thing quickly, but lead acid batteries like being constantly charged at a low level, unlike lipos or whatever.
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Nov 20, 2023 11:43
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remembering my 1989 Toyota Cressida that i had to snake my hand around two pinch points to get to, and which dumped oil directly onto part of the frame when removed. that was the car that taught me the value of paying someone else to change my oil also when it ran out of oil, spun a bearing, and seized 100 miles from home, it taught me the value of still checking the loving oil even if i'm not changing it
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Nov 20, 2023 16:00
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Cactus Ghost posted:remembering my 1989 Toyota Cressida that i had to snake my hand around two pinch points to get to, and which dumped oil directly onto part of the frame when removed. that was the car that taught me the value of paying someone else to change my oil Could you have done like a funnel or something to divert it from the frame and into a tray or whatever? I remember having to jerry rig a system of 2 or 3 funnels out of cut-up PET bottles to get ATF into my old Daihatsu van.
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Nov 20, 2023 18:04
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Rexxed posted:There's no guarantees but being down to 10 volts isn't bad at all. A trickle charger should be able to top it up. I have a battery tender branded one I use for this kind of thing now and then and it does a good job. As in the name, it doesn't charge the thing quickly, but lead acid batteries like being constantly charged at a low level, unlike lipos or whatever. Hmm alright cool. I'll top it up and then put my multimeter in series to see if there's still a draw.
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Nov 20, 2023 19:17
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 AISS 2023: This Wednesday 11/22 is the last day to sign up! Did you catch a joke probation, make a super embarrassing post complaining about it, and need some holiday cheer to get you back in the shitposting spirit? Then sign up for Automotive Insanity's Secret Santa! Some goon will send you a random assortment of items, mostly some broken car parts, and there is an option for penis-emblazonment. I have enjoyed it so much over the years that I volunteered to pick up the mantle from slothrop and organize it for 2023. So come on down and spread the holiday
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Nov 20, 2023 19:35
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2005 Crown Vic (again...), engine light came on. AutoZone guy ran it, came back as "fuel rail pressure sensor" and sold me these things: Since I'm a rube that falls for stupid things, did he sell me snake oil, and is replacing that sensor relatively easy, or should I take it to a shop? Things I've learned to replace in the last six months or so: -Spark plugs and ignition coils -Fuel filter -Battery terminals Just to give an idea of my skill level; I'm fine with spending $20 or whatever on the part and sticking it in if it's not super obnoxious.
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Nov 20, 2023 21:23
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