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Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

What’s the point of buying brushes made from the finest mink bum hair if you don’t shove it in your mouth every now and then for a treat?

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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Mr Teatime posted:

What’s the point of buying brushes made from the finest mink bum hair if you don’t shove it in your mouth every now and then for a treat?

Eat rear end, Paint Fast

Bell_
Sep 3, 2006

Tiny Baltimore
A billion light years away
A goon's posting the same thing
But he's already turned to dust
And the shitpost we read
Is a billion light-years old
A ghost just like the rest of us
So, I'm starting small. I got a kit, some paint, and a single model to relearn how this works. I was worried I'd get lost in the combat patrol sprues, and that wouldn't happen with an individual Palatine. Even if I can't use her with the combat patrol, she's going to look neat. Plus, she'll inform me how much time I'm willing to spend on the patrol or future troops.

I can tell the sword will get in the way, so I plan on adding it at the end, and probably the same with her backpack.

I plan to prime her gray tomorrow and start on my base coats the following day.

Bell_ fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Nov 28, 2023

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Winklebottom posted:

a lizard



feat. small toad



I love you, little frog!

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Bell_ posted:

So, I'm starting small. I got a kit, some paint, and a single model to relearn how this works. I was worried I'd get lost in the combat patrol sprues, and that wouldn't happen with an individual Palatine. Even if I can't use her with the combat patrol, she's going to look neat. Plus, she'll inform me how much time I'm willing to spend on the patrol or future troops.

I can tell the sword will get in the way, so I plan on adding it at the end, and probably the same with her backpack.

I plan to prime her gray tomorrow and start on my base coats the following day.

:yeah:

That's honestly the best way to get started. Don't be afraid to suck at it at first, either.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu8YiTeU9XU

Recommendation, though, scrape away the moldlines as best you can before priming, like the big one running right down the middle of her leg. It's just a good habit to get in to doing again, and it'll make it look better in the end.

Also, seconding the jar for paint water. I'd look for something with a wide mouth and already has texture molded in to the jar itself, like jars of parmesan cheese.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Crosspostin'.







Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Bell_ posted:

So, I'm starting small. I got a kit, some paint, and a single model to relearn how this works. I was worried I'd get lost in the combat patrol sprues, and that wouldn't happen with an individual Palatine. Even if I can't use her with the combat patrol, she's going to look neat. Plus, she'll inform me how much time I'm willing to spend on the patrol or future troops.

I can tell the sword will get in the way, so I plan on adding it at the end, and probably the same with her backpack.

I plan to prime her gray tomorrow and start on my base coats the following day.

Seconding spending a bit of time cleaning up the mould lines before you prime it up, notably the front of the leg, across the top of the head and inside that rosary thing. If you hate using your hobby knife to do some of them a set of sanding sponges goes a long way to making things easy.

Bell_
Sep 3, 2006

Tiny Baltimore
A billion light years away
A goon's posting the same thing
But he's already turned to dust
And the shitpost we read
Is a billion light-years old
A ghost just like the rest of us
Thank you all for the advice. I see the value in taking these pictures even just for myself to have a good, zoomed in picture that helps me catch things.

I was unfamiliar enough with the model, and the leg mould lines stuck so far out I thought they were some sort of plating. I'll look at some painted models to get an idea of what's what.i was hoping to prime this morning before work, but I'll take my time this evening attacking those mould lines before proceeding.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Random aside so I can confirm I’m not having a stroke, does anyone else’s Balthazar gold smell extremely alcoholic? :psyduck:

Took a big old whiff when I was checking an old pot and I swear to god it smells like loving sherry or something. Please huff your paints and report back.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I hate painting flesh I haaate it


I feel like I got Genestealer hybrid flesh ok but all my flesh is either too dark or too light.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

They all look fine, use a darker wash/shade for the recessed/shaded areas.

Except that one in the middle in the third picture, yeah the highlights don't match the base coat there.

Edit: But maybe my standards are lower.

I tried painting a face properly for the first time and I think it turned out alright



None of the mistakes are obvious at mini scale and blend in together well enough.

No hat and exposed eyes do make it harder thou.

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Nov 28, 2023

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Nebalebadingdong posted:

god i love licking that brush

welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull
Sometimes I think I like making little stripes on the back of my hand more than painting a model

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

tangy yet delightful posted:

Eat rear end, Paint Fast

:vince:

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

tangy yet delightful posted:

Eat rear end, Paint Fast

thread title plz

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I am a brush-licker, but given that I just bought some Golden So-Flats that contain nasty heavy metals, I probably need to stop. Although when I paint with oils I don't.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
fwiw every artist's brand has azo alternatives, there isn't any need to buy cadmium pigments for miniatures

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

notes for future reference, avoid touching very good looking yellow minis, got it.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lostconfused posted:

notes for future reference, avoid touching very good looking yellow minis, got it.

probably not an issue unless you're putting them in your mouth

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Hi everybody. I'm an reformed brush licker. I always did it because it gave my brush a real nice point before I dipped it in paint, but then after looking at the process really hard I realized it didn't do anything because that point given from licking goes away when the capillary action sucks the paint up into the belly of the brush. Rolling the brush on the pallet or on the back of my hand again gets the brush point back, so licking my brush didn't do much to begin with. Well anyway, that's my story. it's been a long hard road, but I stand here a stronger and more confident mini painter as a result of that train of thought. Thanks for reading.

Ballbot5000
Dec 13, 2008

Fabricati diem, pvnc.

Nebalebadingdong posted:



thanks for listenin' ya'll

Can I fairly assume you use a magnifying lamp/glasses or so you just go by sense of smell?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

AndyElusive posted:

Hi everybody. I'm an reformed brush licker. I always did it because it gave my brush a real nice point before I dipped it in paint, but then after looking at the process really hard I realized it didn't do anything because that point given from licking goes away when the capillary action sucks the paint up into the belly of the brush. Rolling the brush on the pallet or on the back of my hand again gets the brush point back, so licking my brush didn't do much to begin with. Well anyway, that's my story. it's been a long hard road, but I stand here a stronger and more confident mini painter as a result of that train of thought. Thanks for reading.

I do it for blending, not for pointing. Which I guess is why I don't do it with oils, since they blend themselves.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Ballbot5000 posted:

Can I fairly assume you use a magnifying lamp/glasses or so you just go by sense of smell?

Super echo-location is my guess, like, down to the molecular level.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Ballbot5000 posted:

Can I fairly assume you use a magnifying lamp/glasses or so you just go by sense of smell?

no, i dont use magnification. ive tried it but it didn't help. my eyesight isn't great, but i am near sighted so i guess that makes it easier

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Lostconfused posted:

notes for future reference, avoid touching very good looking yellow minis, got it.

Cadmium is also used in Cadmium Red and Cadmium Orange so there's more than just yellow out there!

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Eej posted:

Cadmium is also used in Cadmium Red and Cadmium Orange so there's more than just yellow out there!

Lead is also used in quite a few pigments. When I was getting into oils I was surprised by just how many oil paints are literally poison and how it is barely communicated on the packaging. Of my first batch of oil paints, more than half contained heavy metals. It wasn't until I had used them a good few times, getting them all over my hands (oils are far more messy than acrylics because if you accidentally get paint on something it stays wet for like a week), drinking coffee while I painted, etc, that I read some news about Cadmium, and it finally clicked that Cadmium is in fact a poisonous heavy metal. Then I checked the tubes and there are these tiny warnings that this product contains heavy metals.

I ended up replacing all of them with non-toxic ones. I know that painting with heavy metals is probably fine if you abstain from drinking, smoking, and eating while painting with them, wash your hands afterwards, etc, but I just really don't want to have to keep all that poo poo at the back of my mind while I do my relaxing hobby.

tl;dr really read the fine print on any oil paint before you buy it

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
there's really no need to use heavy metal pigments at all in this hobby. titanium white is a purer white than lead white. non-toxic azo pigments can cover the warm bright colors just as well as cadmium ones can, and the issue of lightfastness is not exactly a concern.

with that said, cadmium dyes are a hazardous material you should handle with care, not toxic waste allowed through a loophole of tradition the way lead white is. the cadmium dye compounds are not metallic cadmium nor especially soluble. unless you are inhaling droplets or flakes from spraying or scraping (or you're a maniac using cadmium pastels, which should not be legal), the odds that you've poisoned yourself using them are pretty low.

that said, people should be disposing of anything fouled with cadmium pigment as toxic waste and they don't, unfortunately.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Cease to Hope posted:

there's really no need to use heavy metal pigments at all in this hobby. titanium white is a purer white than lead white. non-toxic azo pigments can cover the warm bright colors just as well as cadmium ones can, and the issue of lightfastness is not exactly a concern.

with that said, cadmium dyes are a hazardous material you should handle with care, not toxic waste allowed through a loophole of tradition the way lead white is. the cadmium dye compounds are not metallic cadmium nor especially soluble. unless you are inhaling droplets or flakes from spraying or scraping (or you're a maniac using cadmium pastels, which should not be legal), the odds that you've poisoned yourself using them are pretty low.

that said, people should be disposing of anything fouled with cadmium pigment as toxic waste and they don't, unfortunately.

Big agree here. I'm an artist, and have a ton of heavy metal laden paints, lead white is the absolute best white fyi. I switched all my hobby paints from my art stuff to citadel after getting a huge box of them as a gift. I find them great to use, I never wish I had my artist paints, well except the whites but I make do. It is refreshing to not have to be super careful, messes aren't a big deal, it is much more relaxing.

If someone isn't well versed in working with heavy metal they shouldn't use them. The damage done to your body is very slow to build, and once you notice it you'll have to spend years recovering, if not decades.

Edit: I worked in a studio where someone had been dumping chromium compounds into the sink, that was unbelievable.

Virtual Russian fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Nov 29, 2023

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style
i did surgery to this goblin and put him on my first custom made base. I put the little rocks there myself and everything!!

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

It’s worth noting that some of the older Vallejo acrylics contain heavy metals. Joking aside you really shouldn’t be sticking stuff in your mouth and it’s a terrible habit to get into because when you start using something really unsafe you already have the habit. Ask me how microsol tastes.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
microsol is methyl alcohol fwiw

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007




Still a WIP but jesus christ I want to throw Warboss Green in the garbage.

lovely coverage, inconsistent, somewhat transparent, you pretty much have to layer it, took hours just to get here

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Yeah personally I consider all my various hobby junk "safe" in the sense that I just sort of casually apply them onto the model without worrying about it, and if some gets on me it's not the end of the world, but I still wouldn't put it on me or in me on purpose. So basically the same level of care I'd use if I was cleaning the kitchen, I don't go find a mask and eye protection to clean the stove but also don't take a sip or lather it on bare handed. Like was said earlier you'll never know when you transpose that habit onto a third party technical product that whoopsie isn't safe at all, also I feel like there's degrees of "non toxic" where maybe won't want to find out later what 50 of direct contact on your skin does.

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:




Still a WIP but jesus christ I want to throw Warboss Green in the garbage.

lovely coverage, inconsistent, somewhat transparent, you pretty much have to layer it, took hours just to get here

Is Warboss Green your first basecoat on the mini? It's a layer paint, so it's meant to go on top of a base paint. Using something like Waaagh! Flesh or another base paint first would save you a lot of headache.

As an aside, I tried looking up the Citadel paint colors to find the right name and holy poo poo the new shop site is so bad. I had to look a third party site to find a paint overview.

Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Nov 29, 2023

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
GW continue to be impressively bad at the internet.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Winklebottom posted:

Is Warboss Green your first basecoat on the mini? It's a layer paint, so it's meant to go on top of a base paint. Using something like Waaagh! Flesh or another base paint first would save you a lot of headache.

As an aside, I tried looking up the Citadel paint colors to find the right name and holy poo poo the new shop site is so bad. I had to look a third party site to find a paint overview.

Seconding this- Waaagh Flesh goes on great in just a couple thin coats and Warboss works like a dream to help create “realistic” green skin.

Check out my post history itt for some examples- for my Nobz I used the Citadel recommended method of Waaagh Flesh/Biel Tan/Warboss/Skarsnik, for my Grots I did Death Guard/Coelia/Death Guard/Nurgling and finished with a Plaugebearer over the skin

Edit: Huh, I guess I didn’t post my Grots, probably because the picture sucks:


Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Nov 29, 2023

Perestroika
Apr 8, 2010

Something of a long shot, but here goes: A while back on twitter I saw somebody showing off a wash that worked really nicely to create a ceramic-like effect when put on a white basecoat. Very dark where it pools, but also glossy and apparently quite thin so it doesn't bring down the overall brightness very much. Unfortunately I've since lost the link and have no idea which brand it might've been, only thing I remember is that it wasn't Citadel and probably wasn't Vallejo. Anybody happen to have an idea what I'm talking about?

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Perestroika posted:

Something of a long shot, but here goes: A while back on twitter I saw somebody showing off a wash that worked really nicely to create a ceramic-like effect when put on a white basecoat. Very dark where it pools, but also glossy and apparently quite thin so it doesn't bring down the overall brightness very much. Unfortunately I've since lost the link and have no idea which brand it might've been, only thing I remember is that it wasn't Citadel and probably wasn't Vallejo. Anybody happen to have an idea what I'm talking about?

Was it an oil or enamel wash? Those tend to be very thin and can be glossy when applied.

Perestroika
Apr 8, 2010

Radiation Cow posted:

Was it an oil or enamel wash? Those tend to be very thin and can be glossy when applied.

Oh yeah, enamel was the keyword I was missing, thank you! That let me find the tweet again, turns out he used AK Interactive enamel paint and thinner:
https://twitter.com/MamikonPaints/status/1721173429246677107

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Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

Winklebottom posted:

As an aside, I tried looking up the Citadel paint colors to find the right name and holy poo poo the new shop site is so bad. I had to look a third party site to find a paint overview.

Could this be due to the inaccuracy of some of the old paint schemes on the old website? I remember trying to match the box art a few times, and the paint they recommended was just wrong. Had to go third party to get the right paints.

You would think that the company painting the actual miniatures they are advertising would know which paints they used. But then again, this is the same company who decided on this new website design....

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