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It's a separate plate / separate product. https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-high-temperature-plate And their new(er) textured PEI plate -- the gold-ish colored one -- is great. https://store.bambulab.com/collections/accessories-for-x1-series/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate Between those two I pretty much never use anything else. I mostly print PLA.
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Nov 30, 2023 21:58
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My last enclosed printer was a Powerspec 3d Pro, and I noticed that it would spaghetti about halfway through the print with PLA. Looking back, I'm thinking it was mainly due to the unventilated print chamber heating up too much on larger prints, and taking the top off might help it vent. I haven't gotten my P1S in yet, but would printing an AMS riser and removing the top cover help dissipate enough heat? Or is it not really much of an issue/low speed circulating air with the built in chamber fan is adequate? Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 22:01
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I just leave the door open for PLA and use the textured plate. Smooth PEI would be best, but warping hasn't been an issue for me.
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Nov 30, 2023 22:11
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I think my P1P only came with the textured plate. It has been fine for PLA printing, and the only adhesion issues were when I accidentally set the bed temperature to zero. Whoops. Is there an advantage to a cool and/or smooth plate? Other than having the bottom of the print be a little less textured? In other news, my Black Friday IIIDmax PLA+ order arrived, but they made a minor mistake on the colors, and I ended up getting extra silver and no space gray. Anyone dealt with their customer service before? It's not a huge deal, but I actuary have a project in mind for the gray. WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 22:25
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Anyone have a favorite gear puller for printer motors? Happy with something I can print or something I can buy for a reasonable sum. I'm keeping an eye on the brass extruder gear as I start printing abrasives, and I know I'm going to have to replace it with a hardened gear sooner than later.
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Nov 30, 2023 22:29
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The Eyes Have It posted:It's a separate plate / separate product. https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-high-temperature-plate I got the gold textured one, but not the high temp. Doubt I need it just yet but I'll keep it in mind. Why are yall leaving the door open for PLA? Once again, I thought too much cooling would cause warping? I plan to print the riser so i can always take the lid off, right now the AMS is on top and prevents that. Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 22:41
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Edit: sorry, double.
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Nov 30, 2023 22:41
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Deviant posted:I got the gold textured one, but not the high temp. Doubt I need it just yet but I'll keep it in mind. PLA prints best in open air, opening the door or top is what Bambu recommends.
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Nov 30, 2023 22:49
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Bondematt posted:PLA prints best in open air, opening the door or top is what Bambu recommends. Strange, I haven't had any issues yet, aside from the slight warping. I'll give it some experimentation. I've not worked with an enclosed printer before this. Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Nov 30, 2023 |
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Nov 30, 2023 22:50
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Deviant posted:Strange, I haven't had any issues yet, aside from the slight warping. I'll give it some experimentation. You *can* have heat creep issues in the hotend with PLA in sealed chamber, but I printed some storage boxes where I forgot to leave the door open and they printed fine so who knows if the Bambu suffers from it.
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Nov 30, 2023 22:57
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Bondematt posted:You *can* have heat creep issues in the hotend with PLA in sealed chamber, but I printed some storage boxes where I forgot to leave the door open and they printed fine so who knows if the Bambu suffers from it. For whatever it's worth, I did this entire thing in PLA+ over about 4-5 hours with no issues, chamber fully closed. https://streamable.com/3zkmsz
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Nov 30, 2023 23:01
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In addition to having an extractor fan for resin fumes you can try out different resins too. One of the first resins i tried was anycubics default resin and that gave me a terrible headache on its own and made me move it to a smaller room with its own ventilation fan. Ive since been using their eco resin which is a very inoffensive smelling materiel and doesnt give me any problems at all.
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Dec 1, 2023 00:52
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Deviant posted:Wham Bam got back to me and said that yeah, some Iso or Resin must have gotten trapped between the two and ate off the magnet's coating. I have been advised to clean better in the future and slash or store them seperately. That's crazy. I just checked mine and it's been sitting unused for probably 2 months now with a thin coat of resin all over the wham bam plate and magnet, including in between, and separated like normal. FEP is hosed though, but unrelated. One of the corners has pretty bad stretch marks and i have no idea how many print I did on this, so gonna replace before my resin makes an escape into the Saturn screen.
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Dec 1, 2023 01:42
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Oh cool, the 3d printer thread. I can post here now. Mostly I want to vent lol after setting up an elegoo mars 4 max my test print failed, but upping exposure a couple clicks did the trick in that cold rear end room. I then decided to print a guldann weirdboy for a game tomorrow, and so far I've: Forgotten to tighten the screws in the build plate Forgotten to put the screws for the vat back Found a print error that just shows the calibration image Did that again because "that can't be right" And now finally, after being forced to clean the vat 4 times through fully my own fault I believe I am on my way to minis. This has been really fun so far but I am already dreaming of a wash and cure station good god
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Dec 1, 2023 02:42
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AlexDeGruven posted:Welp, X1C just made me $50 on Etsy. Look out world. Nice. I've sold a handful of stuff my one friend takes to her craft shows. I haven't had an Etsy hit but I need to flush out my storefront a little I think.
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Dec 1, 2023 02:43
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A surprisingly positive review of the Ender 3 V3 SE, from someone who is typically critical of Creality. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL8ehEYPTCk I'd still get an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Sovol SV-06, or Bambu A1 over it as a starter printer, but at least creality is trying.
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Dec 1, 2023 02:52
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tater_salad posted:Nice. I've sold a handful of stuff my one friend takes to her craft shows. I haven't had an Etsy hit but I need to flush out my storefront a little I think. Caught me completely off guard. Original design and everything. I just need to redo my shipping setup, as it didn't charge them anything. Glad it's only $5 to send it out.
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Dec 1, 2023 03:33
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Deviant posted:I got the gold textured one, but not the high temp. Doubt I need it just yet but I'll keep it in mind. I don't open the door but I leave the top off when printing. Otherwise I get print failures due to heat creep after 8-12-ish hours(?) with both PLA and PLA-CF. Leaving the top off is just part of my normal process now, and it works every time even on hella challenging prints so I'm not messing with it.
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Dec 1, 2023 04:45
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I’ve only had my P1S for a few days but I printed a couple of these in ASA and stick em in to keep the lid cracked when I print PLA. Works fine with the AMS on top. I’ve also been keeping the door open but I might try closing it and seeing if that has any problems, it cuts down on the noise a fair bit.
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Dec 1, 2023 05:21
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I bought an X1C on Black Friday and have been printing with it since it arrived earlier this week. My first 10 prints were absolutely flawless, no issues. Then yesterday everything because a spaghetti mess and I have no idea why. I’ve cleaned the poop shoot, put more glue surface, purged the extruder, taken apart the hot end and clean it out, and checked the blade. I’ll add some pictures after my next test print but here’s what happens. The nozzle cleaning seems to go fine. The extruder starts the job nice and clean. The extruded calibration at the front of the plate is a mess. Some lines are fine and adhere without issue. Some don’t stick at all. The L shaped line at the back of the plate looks good but seems too shallow. Anything in the middle adheres but just us sloppy. It’s like the nozzle is sloshing around in the hot, soft filament and loving it up. Anyone seen anything like this before and know where to even start troubleshooting it?  Saltpowered fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 14:38
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Printed this little guy as my first AMS print and aside from being *tiny* and still taking 8 hours to print it ran flawlessly. https://fab365.net/items/520  Oh, and the model is so damned detailed trying to slice 2 of them crashes Orca every single time with an out of memory error. 
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Dec 1, 2023 14:45
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That looks like a good candidate for fuzzy skin.
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Dec 1, 2023 15:22
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deimos posted:That looks like a good candidate for fuzzy skin.
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Dec 1, 2023 16:01
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I wish simple multicolor prints didn’t require like, hundreds of filament swaps It can be fun figuring out how to design stuff so that doesn’t happen as much though
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Dec 1, 2023 16:07
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Arcsech posted:I’ve only had my P1S for a few days but I printed a couple of these in ASA and stick em in to keep the lid cracked when I print PLA. Works fine with the AMS on top. I’ve also been keeping the door open but I might try closing it and seeing if that has any problems, it cuts down on the noise a fair bit. Yeah it turned out i had already just printed a few tiny blocks for an unrelated project, so I ran them off again. They're PLA+, but i don't expect my chamber to get to PLA's glass temperature based on my use case. I still want to make the light riser that mattfl posted but I am not set up to print ABS.  I'd like to get this printed in a more heat tolerant material if anyone wants a quick comission. PETG might be sufficient though? And I can print that without special ventilation? I could also be persuaded to get a Hydra AMS mod done for a bit of $$. https://www.printables.com/model/555782-ams-glass-separation-led-riser Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 16:13
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Saltpowered posted:I bought an X1C on Black Friday and have been printing with it since it arrived earlier this week. My first 10 prints were absolutely flawless, no issues. Then yesterday everything because a spaghetti mess and I have no idea why. I’ve cleaned the poop shoot, put more glue surface, purged the extruder, taken apart the hot end and clean it out, and checked the blade. Your photo didn't ember properly in your post but I fixed it in the quote. It looks like underextrusion in those middle sections, you shouldn't see gaps between the lines it's laying down. You talk about adhesion problems in your text, but this picture doesn't give us any insight into that.
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Dec 1, 2023 17:03
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Mk4 update: After calibrating E steps, I set the extrusion multiplier for this filament to 0.95 and it's great now. It's not even stringing anymore. Every print coming out of this thing is phenomenal. I am so glad I got this printer. I think the first layer is still on the over-squished side, but I'll try to fix that when I have to do a print where that matters. I mean, heck, maybe the extrusion multiplier fixed that too: that would stand to reason. Thanks for your advice, everyone.
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Dec 1, 2023 17:03
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cruft posted:Mk4 update: After calibrating E steps, I set the extrusion multiplier for this filament to 0.95 and it's great now. If it's giving you elephant's foot on your prints, it'll matter if you're printing something with clearances that matter. Otherwise for random doodads it's not a problem beyond potentially looking bad. Cura has a setting called "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" which can be tuned to compensate for elephant's foot. It also has "Initial Layer Flow" which can be used in a similar capacity. The first setting actually adjusts the size of the printed object within the first layer and the second is equivalent to the Extrusion Multiplier setting you're using (but similarly only applied to the first layer). I'm sure there are equivalent options in your slicer.
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Dec 1, 2023 17:10
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cruft posted:Thanks for your advice, everyone. Bro what everyone's advice was to just call Prusa  They should have a good first layer calibration process programmed into the machine, my first layers on my MK3S+ are always perfect
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Dec 1, 2023 17:11
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armorer posted:If it's giving you elephant's foot on your prints, it'll matter if you're printing something with clearances that matter. Otherwise for random doodads it's not a problem beyond potentially looking bad. Cura has a setting called "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" which can be tuned to compensate for elephant's foot. It also has "Initial Layer Flow" which can be used in a similar capacity. The first setting actually adjusts the size of the printed object within the first layer and the second is equivalent to the Extrusion Multiplier setting you're using (but similarly only applied to the first layer). I'm sure there are equivalent options in your slicer. It's not actually elephant's foot, it's, like, the opposite? The first three layers are a tiny bit inset (like 0.5mm) on the perimeters. But the squish is too high, so you can just barely see each strand on the bottom. Maybe this weekend I'll try fiddling around with stuff to see what's going on, but on the parts I'm printing it doesn't matter at all. Macichne Leainig posted:Bro what everyone's advice was to just call Prusa A few people did, yeah. Understanding how this all works is an enjoyable part of the hobby experience for me.  I'll call Prusa if I run out of things to try, but now that I've learned all this stuff, I might be able to tune my old E3v2 back into something useful. I doubt Prusa support would help me with that 
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Dec 1, 2023 17:19
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You're the guy printing PLA at 175C right? You should call Prusa. The only way that makes sense to most of this thread is that your thermistor is hosed. Just like calibrating e-steps so you have a sane baseline, knowing what temperature you're actually printing at is a necessary thing.
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Dec 1, 2023 17:27
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armorer posted:You're the guy printing PLA at 175C right? You should call Prusa. The only way that makes sense to most of this thread is that your thermistor is hosed. Just like calibrating e-steps so you have a sane baseline, knowing what temperature you're actually printing at is a necessary thing. Yeah, that was me. I'm printing the same spool at 200 now, with a 0.95 extrusion multiplier and an added 0.8mm of retraction. I didn't know what those values meant this time three days ago. Stringing is gone. I think the filament might be over-moisturized. cruft fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 17:30
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Saltpowered posted:I bought an X1C on Black Friday and have been printing with it since it arrived earlier this week. My first 10 prints were absolutely flawless, no issues. Then yesterday everything because a spaghetti mess and I have no idea why. I’ve cleaned the poop shoot, put more glue surface, purged the extruder, taken apart the hot end and clean it out, and checked the blade. have you picked the right build plate, what temps are you running? White needs to be a little hotter than other colors from the same brand .. you look to be under-extruding by a bunch
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Dec 1, 2023 17:31
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cruft posted:It's not actually elephant's foot, it's, like, the opposite? The first three layers are a tiny bit inset (like 0.5mm) on the perimeters. But the squish is too high, so you can just barely see each strand on the bottom. Maybe this weekend I'll try fiddling around with stuff to see what's going on, but on the parts I'm printing it doesn't matter at all. If you're using Prusa Slicer the first layer inset might be the elephant foot compensation that's on by default. Might be worth trying reducing it.
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Dec 1, 2023 17:35
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cruft posted:I think the filament might be over-moisturized. PLA is not nearly as hygroscopic as PETG and other stuff. I used to think that about some of my PLA but after running it through a filament dryer two days in a row consecutively, that kind of shot down that theory
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Dec 1, 2023 17:36
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cruft posted:Yeah, that was me. I'm printing the same spool at 200 now, with a 0.95 extrusion multiplier and an added 0.8mm of retraction. I didn't know what those values meant this time three days ago. Stringing is gone. Okay well 200 is totally reasonable  Kudos on ramping up! This hobby runs deep.Edit: In my experience the only time PLA needs to be put through a dryer is if it's absorbed enough moisture that the filament is brittle. If you can bend it and it just gets fatigued and a bit lighter colored, it should be fine. If it snaps like a dry twig, then you need to dry it (and depending on how bad it has gotten, that might not be enough to salvage it).
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Dec 1, 2023 17:48
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armorer posted:Your photo didn't ember properly in your post but I fixed it in the quote. I think it's probably underextrusion here too. there are gaps in the calibration lines but it's probably a complete lack of extrusion. tater_salad posted:have you picked the right build plate, what temps are you running? White needs to be a little hotter than other colors from the same brand .. you look to be under-extruding by a bunch Using the cool plate. It does the same thing with any color. Just ran a green that looked the same. Tried temps from 205-220 on both green and white. It worked absolutely perfect until last night and between one print and another of the exact same item it suddenly started looking like this. I see a lot of similar reports of this issue on the bambu lab forums with no clear resolution.
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Dec 1, 2023 18:07
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Saltpowered posted:I think it's probably underextrusion here too. there are gaps in the calibration lines but it's probably a complete lack of extrusion. That typically points towards a clogged nozzle in my experience. Do you have spares on hand? Swap in a new one and see if the issue magically goes away.
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Dec 1, 2023 18:30
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armorer posted:That typically points towards a clogged nozzle in my experience. Do you have spares on hand? Swap in a new one and see if the issue magically goes away. I just now removed my current one, thoroughly cleaned it, and am doing a test print. If that doesn't work I'll just do a swap to the extra nozzle that comes with the x1c. I definitely felt some resistance when fully cleaning it so you are probably right and there's something gunked up in there. Edit: Looks less bad but still not great. After it finishes this print I'll probably replace the nozzle. Saltpowered fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 18:52
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Macichne Leainig posted:Bro what everyone's advice was to just call Prusa Well that and that it wasn't a temperature issue rather than extreme overextruding being choked at low temps.
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Dec 1, 2023 18:56
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