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This any good? about to hit the buy button. https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qNw2Wt Priorities: 1440p Gaming, dark colourless case, good cooling What country are you in? Australia Do you live near Microcenter? No What are you using the system for? gaming and shitposting What's your budget? 2k $ AUD~ or so. this will go a bit above that. I alreadyhave the FX card, (Will upgrade later), M.2 SSD, PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-14700KF 3.4 GHz 20-Core Processor ($629.00 @ Centre Com) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Loop 2 Liquid CPU Cooler ($169.00 @ PCCaseGear) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($379.00 @ Centre Com) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($199.00 @ BPC Technology) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($158.00 @ Mighty Ape) Video Card: Gigabyte EAGLE OC Rev 2.0 GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define 7 ATX Mid Tower Case ($269.00 @ Centre Com) Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE GOLD 750 V2 FULL MODULAR 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.00 @ Scorptec) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($139.49 @ Amazon Australia) Monitor: LG 32GP750-B 31.5" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Monitor ($419.00 @ Centre Com) Total: $2510.49 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-09 13:32 AEDT+1100
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Dec 9, 2023 03:32
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Assuming you're putting this together yourself you could get the 280mm version of that cooler from centrecom for $320 shipped, saves a decent amount over buying from what mwave has in stock for a better cooler to boot. Grab an OEM windows 11 pro (or home) key from samart for ~$32 instead of paying retail for home, it'll work the same. That HDD doesn't seem like great value either, If you can get away with slightly less storage you could buy a 4tb NM790 for $295 which will be way faster (dramless nvme ssd instead of a 7200rpm hdd). If you just want it for storing media you'll share over plex a 5400rpm drive for $200 would be fine (probably a wd blue or seagate barracuda). If you're willing to compromise a bit on the primary storage you could even swap the 990pro for a crucial p5 plus ($220), it's a tiny bit slower but 2/3 the price. You're also paying a questionable premium for that 4070ti, there's plenty of choices around the $1300 mark. You can probably save a decent bit with the mobo/ram as well but I'm not familiar enough with ddr5 and the various chipsets to suggest anything there. Depending what changes you're willing to make that'd save you ~$500-700 (probably another $200 to be saved on the motherboard not counted here) which gets you closer to budget. Mwave also have pretty good prices most of the time but if you're willing to order from another place you can save another $20 on the PSU and $60 on the motherboard ordering those from centrecom too. I would definitely go for a different case, the define 7 with it's solid front panel has poor airflow, thermals will suffer and it'll be noisy. If you want a similar look the fractal pop air ($140) is rated pretty well by GN. Same rec with buying an oem windows 10/11 key from samart. I'm also not a fan of 32" 1440p monitors, but if you don't mind the lower pixel density then that should be fine. The 27" equivalent is almost $200 more expensive from the few places that I found with it in stock anyway. The Cooler Master MWE 750 appears to have made compromises to meet a budget that affected reliability, not sure if they changed that decision for the v2. An extra $10-15 here could get a more well regarded series like Corsair RMx or Thermaltake Toughpower GF. ephphatha fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 9, 2023 |
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Dec 9, 2023 04:44
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ephphatha posted:I would definitely go for a different case, the define 7 with it's solid front panel has poor airflow, thermals will suffer and it'll be noisy. If you want a similar look the fractal pop air ($140) is rated pretty well by GN. Changed case and power. Found a 27". Can change later also for a 4k with FX card. Yeah , I saw that win 10 thing cheers.
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Dec 9, 2023 06:05
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What country are you in? Australia. Do you live near Microcenter? No. What are you using the system for? Gaming, I want to start playing games closer to release. What's your budget? $3,000 AUD I'm looking for silky smooth 1440p 240hz 60fps at highest settings (for most games anyway) and I'm not too worried about RT. I'm not sure on which RAM would be best, what is in there is just a placeholder. Also I have dual 1080p monitors and am looking to have one of them vertical for reading and a new larger one for 1440p gaming, not really sure what would go best with my current list. This is replacing my i7-4790 / GTX 970 system from 2015. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($609.10 @ Amazon Australia) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock B650E PG RIPTIDE WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($702.00 @ Amazon Australia) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($193.56 @ Amazon Australia) Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea Zero Z440 Graphene 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($181.74 @ Amazon Australia) Video Card: PowerColor Hellhound OC Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card ($901.37 @ Amazon Australia) Case: Fractal Design Torrent ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 - TT Premium Edition 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Total: $2587.77 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-09 19:09 AEDT+1100
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Dec 9, 2023 09:25
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The only thing that sticks out to me immediately is the 14700. The Ryzen 7800X3D really is a superior gaming option, and you'll primarily be gaming and shitposting, and the 7800 costs less than the 14000 part and is easier to cool. Unless you're super married to Intel, I'd go with the shiny new AMD part. And even then, if you're devoted to Intel the 13700KF is essentially the same part and costs a bit less, and the 12700KF is still not terribly worse performance-wise and costs $150 less. The 14000 parts are pretty much a scam on Intel's part and aren't really superior to the 13000s. Also, standard motherboard questions apply - are you going to use all four m.2 slots on the motherboard you chose, do you need six SATA slots, can a less expensive motherboard serve all the purposes and plans you have, etc. Kejiim posted:Older gamer looking to get something that future proofs me for a while. So firstly, same motherboard question goes to you, even more strongly - are you going to use all the capabilities of that motherboard you chose? The X670E-F Strix has a ton of inputs and features that you may not necessarily use. Will you use S/PDIF output for sound? Will you actually install 4 m.2 drives at some point? Do you have a use case that will actually call for ten USB3.2s of various form factors in the back? Will your audio setup require all the audio jacks it provides? Remember, you aren't necessarily paying for high-quality components in a very pricey motherboard, you're often paying for features. You could easily save hundreds of dollars by going for a "lesser" motherboard whose outputs more realistically match your use profile, even going into the future. Also, the platter drive caught my eye. This thread discussed this some pages back, but the era of platters is actively coming to an end outside of legacy storage and things like NAS archive setups - thanks to the PS5 and Xbox Series X/S using solid-state storage exclusively, modern games that target those platforms now expect to be installed on an SSD so that they can stream in assets in real-time as part of their memory management and load time cutdown. So that big fat platter drive, which looks intended for use in gaming, is ultimately kind of wasted; the modern games you want to be ready for won't really run on it. You'd be better off picking up a second m.2 NVMe drive of the same price and/or a less expensive m.2 and perhaps a much smaller spinnerdrive for any older titles or archival purposes you may have. (As an anecdote, I planned on using my existing spinning rust for that purpose, but I realized the actual size of the data I wanted to archive came down to well under 100GB, when all was said and done, so it was ultimately easier to just plunk it onto the m.2 I was transferring over and go completely solid-state.) I know giving up platters feels weird for older gamers like us, who've been using such drives since we were small children in many cases, but the technology's time really has come and gone. It's a solid state future that's ahead of us. Also, if you are going NVidia for your graphics card, with Black Cyber Friday Monday™ behind us, it's really worth it to hold off on a GPU choice for a month or two and see what NV's final plans for the 4000 SUPER line are. The reputed specs of the 4070 SUPER are reasonably impressive, and it might fill your needs a little better than the 4070Ti for a better price, or the 4070 SUPER Ti might give you better performance for the same price (since the 4070Ti is being outright discontinued). They'll be formally announced in January and will likely be out to shops by February, so it's up to you if you want to wait, but it might pay off. (I myself didn't because the standard 4070 had a few really nice deals in November and I decided to leap on them, combined with other offers.) Also also, that RAM isn't quite the best choice; for a 7800X3D, you want to be targeting DDR5-6000 as a sweet spot (the chip's structure makes speeds above that tricky to support fully) and as low a CAS and first-word latency as you can muster, so that's usually DDR5-6000 CL30. So something like this kit or this kit. It's also worth checking the web page of the motherboard manufacturer or the RAM maker for the boards they support, but this is generally what you want to target. It's cheaper, too, since it's "less fast" RAM. So this is a great place to get the best-matching RAM for the processor and save some cash! Finally, I'm not the biggest fan of glass-front cases like that, but it still has plenty of airflow so it's ultimately up to you. I'm a bit unsure you're really going to need extra case fans, but OTOH, Aussie summers. That one's more up to aesthetics and personal preference, but it is a place you could potentially save money. Keeper Garrett posted:I'm looking for silky smooth 1440p 240hz 60fps at highest settings (for most games anyway) and I'm not too worr You, meanwhile, are pretty much good to go I think.  The main thing I want to point out is that Amazon's current price for the full-size PG Riptide is completely loving stupid, lmao. Absolutely do not pay more than AU$400 for that board. (And standard mobo questions apply, ofc, but the PG series is generally a bit more "sensible" in their layout. The real problem I have with that board is that m.2 #3 is PCIe gen 3 x2 or SATA3, yech; even the B650 Pro RS has gen 4 x2 on its third slot! You aren't getting much in the way of full PCIe slots in trade, either. Still a perfectly fine board for full ATX size, but worth considering.)
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Dec 9, 2023 10:06
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SpaceDrake posted:
I very much appreciate your take on this point. You are right in that I have a tedency to overkill/FOMO on inputs. For sound I run a 2.1 Logitech speaker system that I will eventually be changing to Edifier series speakers. Other than that I have a pair of HyperX Cloud II Wireless headphones when gaming or on voice chat. As for other inputs I have the keyboard, mouse, and USB-A and USB-C charging cables I occasionally plug in. Love to hear some of your mobo suggestions that would perform as effectively without paying for features as you put it. SpaceDrake posted:Also, the platter drive caught my eye. This thread discussed this some pages back, but the era of platters is actively coming to an end outside of legacy storage and things like NAS archive setups - thanks to the PS5 and Xbox Series X/S using solid-state storage exclusively, modern games that target those platforms now expect to be installed on an SSD so that they can stream in assets in real-time as part of their memory management and load time cutdown. So that big fat platter drive, which looks intended for use in gaming, is ultimately kind of wasted; the modern games you want to be ready for won't really run on it. You'd be better off picking up a second m.2 NVMe drive of the same price and/or a less expensive m.2 and perhaps a much smaller spinnerdrive for any older titles or archival purposes you may have. (As an anecdote, I planned on using my existing spinning rust for that purpose, but I realized the actual size of the data I wanted to archive came down to well under 100GB, when all was said and done, so it was ultimately easier to just plunk it onto the m.2 I was transferring over and go completely solid-state.) I know giving up platters feels weird for older gamers like us, who've been using such drives since we were small children in many cases, but the technology's time really has come and gone. It's a solid state future that's ahead of us. Again, you're right. It does feel weird letting them go. They've always been there, but yes. I will try to find something SSD/m2 with less capacity that I can try and make work price wise. SpaceDrake posted:Also, if you are going NVidia for your graphics card, with Black Cyber Friday Monday™ behind us, it's really worth it to hold off on a GPU choice for a month or two and see what NV's final plans for the 4000 SUPER line are. The reputed specs of the 4070 SUPER are reasonably impressive, and it might fill your needs a little better than the 4070Ti for a better price, or the 4070 SUPER Ti might give you better performance for the same price (since the 4070Ti is being outright discontinued). They'll be formally announced in January and will likely be out to shops by February, so it's up to you if you want to wait, but it might pay off. (I myself didn't because the standard 4070 had a few really nice deals in November and I decided to leap on them, combined with other offers.) I was unfortunately a bit late on my savings to take advantage of Black Friday. That said you're right in that it could be worth a little more saving between now and hearing what they say in Jan to see if opting for the Super is better. But man is being patient hard sometimes hehe. SpaceDrake posted:Also also, that RAM isn't quite the best choice; for a 7800X3D, you want to be targeting DDR5-6000 as a sweet spot (the chip's structure makes speeds above that tricky to support fully) and as low a CAS and first-word latency as you can muster, so that's usually DDR5-6000 CL30. So something like this kit or this kit. It's also worth checking the web page of the motherboard manufacturer or the RAM maker for the boards they support, but this is generally what you want to target. It's cheaper, too, since it's "less fast" RAM. So this is a great place to get the best-matching RAM for the processor and save some cash! Did not know and thank you for mentioning. Happy to drop the RAM down a little for it to play nicer with the CPU. SpaceDrake posted:Finally, I'm not the biggest fan of glass-front cases like that, but it still has plenty of airflow so it's ultimately up to you. I'm a bit unsure you're really going to need extra case fans, but OTOH, Aussie summers. That one's more up to aesthetics and personal preference, but it is a place you could potentially save money. I think Lian Li offer a mesh front on the cheap to replace the front if it's proving a hinderance on airflow or aesthetically unappealing, so I'll pick it up if it comes to that. By the way thank you for being so generous with your time and expertise. ephphatha posted:... you could get the 280mm version of that cooler from centrecom for $320 shipped, saves a decent amount over buying from what mwave has in stock for a better cooler to boot. Thank you mate. Did add the change to the CPU cooler going from 240 to 280 and as you saw from SpaceDrake above you're right about ditching the HDD for something more modern.
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Dec 9, 2023 12:04
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SpaceDrake posted:The only thing that sticks out to me immediately is the 14700. The Ryzen 7800X3D really is a superior gaming option, and you'll primarily be gaming and shitposting, and the 7800 costs less than the 14000 part and is easier to cool. Unless you're super married to Intel, I'd go with the shiny new AMD part. And even then, if you're devoted to Intel the 13700KF is essentially the same part and costs a bit less, and the 12700KF is still not terribly worse performance-wise and costs $150 less. The 14000 parts are pretty much a scam on Intel's part and aren't really superior to the 13000s. Super married to intel. It's about 41$ AUD difference to a13700KF at this time (there's a sale on or something) and I wouldn't go lower than that. SpaceDrake posted:Also, standard motherboard questions apply - are you going to use all four m.2 slots on the motherboard you chose, do you need six SATA slots, can a less expensive motherboard serve all the purposes and plans you have, etc. Yeah. Over time I'll most likely throw in a shitload of SSD's... It just happens. But thanks.
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Dec 9, 2023 12:35
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Kejiim posted:I very much appreciate your take on this point. You are right in that I have a tedency to overkill/FOMO on inputs. For sound I run a 2.1 Logitech speaker system that I will eventually be changing to Edifier series speakers. Other than that I have a pair of HyperX Cloud II Wireless headphones when gaming or on voice chat. As for other inputs I have the keyboard, mouse, and USB-A and USB-C charging cables I occasionally plug in. Love to hear some of your mobo suggestions that would perform as effectively without paying for features as you put it. Well, with the speakers the question is "how do you see yourself connecting your Edifier speakers when the time comes"? Will you still use a single 3.5" jack? Will they connect over Bluetooth? S/PDIF? Connect to your monitor and pull audio data from your DisplayPort connection? That's going influence the mobo choice. Beyond that, you need a USB 2.0 or higher for the headphones, I'm guessing ditto for the KB and mouse each, and charging cables can go wherever. So my go-to recommendation would be something like this: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/FcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs This is about the price point and feature set that I think is perfect for A Gaming Mobo. You've got the full-fat GPU connection, an additional traditional PCIe slot for some kind of expansion card if you want it, three m.2 slots with two of them being very high speed and even the third being equal in speed to a gen3 x4-speed slot, good but not amazing onboard audio, four RAM slots if you want to take that path, rear IO that gives you plenty of USB2 slots, two USB3 gen 1 slots, two USB3 gen 2 slots in different form factors, standard audio outs, plenty beefy ethernet capacity, video outs if you need to use the 7800's iGPU for anything, and BIOS flashback capacity. Also of note is that it has three USB3 headers, two for standard mounts and one for a type C, so you can have plenty of front IO as well if your case supports it. There's a version with WiFi antennae preinstalled with a WiFi card, but it seems ASRock doesn't ship that model to Australia and you'd be ordering it from American Newegg for $stupid. So this would pretty much give you all the connectivity you'd need - you plug in the headphone dongle and KB+M in the back, plug your speakers into the 3.5", and you still have your front IO free for a controller. I myself only use two slots in the back, and switch between a controller, a mic or a thumb drive up front, and technically I have capacity for all three at once available if I want to do that. It accomplishes everything I need it to, without any real issue or trouble. And although the best prices are sold out, it accomplishes this for about $500 less than your current mobo selection.  You can absolutely shop around for other parts that tickle your fancy a bit better, but something shaped like this, both feature and price-wise, should suit all your needs and save you a lot. And that's money you could put toward something else, maybe even a GeForce 4080! Or a Radeon 7900XTX if you want to go entirely Team Red!quote:Again, you're right. It does feel weird letting them go. They've always been there, but yes. I will try to find something SSD/m2 with less capacity that I can try and make work price wise. An immediate suggestion is https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam. MightyApe is selling them for AU$260 and that's a steal compared to other retailers. 4TB total system storage is still a ton of space to work with. (Amazon AU also has a good deal on heatsinked 990 Pros that's worth considering: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0BHJDY57J) Reb posted:Super married to intel. It's about 41$ AUD difference to a13700KF at this time (there's a sale on or something) and I wouldn't go lower than that. Fair do's. I still strongly recommend against the Raptor Lake refresh parts because they just don't offer anything meaningful; they really should be numbered 13X50 parts. Heck, the 14700 is the only one that actually has additional hardware, and that consists of all of four additional E-cores.  I do think it's worth it to go for "just" a 13000 part and save yourself some money, but it's your call.quote:Yeah. Over time I'll most likely throw in a shitload of SSD's. I mean, if you're going to use the slots, that's valid! Just want to be sure folks actually consider that.
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Dec 9, 2023 13:35
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Currently rocking a 10900 and I'm wondering what would be a good upgrade for 1440p. I have a 6700xt right now and while it performs great, I am curious about my options, especially for stuff like Alan Wake 2. What's the best GPU I would want to pair with this CPU? 🤔 Edit: No problem going with a used GPU if I save some $. Especially since the new generations are so expensive lol Captain Yossarian fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Dec 9, 2023 |
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Dec 9, 2023 13:40
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Captain Yossarian posted:Currently rocking a 10900 and I'm wondering what would be a good upgrade for 1440p. I have a 6700xt right now and while it performs great, I am curious about my options, especially for stuff like Alan Wake 2. What's the best GPU I would want to pair with this CPU? 🤔 The 6700XT remains an extremely beefy card that can get 60FPS+ in most not-raytraced titles in 2023; frankly, I'd just stick with it for a while. Your options for a meaningful upgrade are the 68000XT and up, the 7800XT and up, and the GeForce GTX 4070 and up (and a number of those are about to get SUPER versions, as noted), and unless you're willing to spend $Texas, frankly I don't think the uplift in current titles would be meaningful enough to notice. Are you experiencing trouble in any specific titles that make you want to upgrade? If anything would be replaced, I'd think it'd be your 10900-based system core; you'd probably see more gains going to a 7800X3D than with a GPU replacement. It's not like the 10900 is a bad CPU in 2023, though, and I'm still not sure a system core replacement would be quite worth it going into 2024, though. I'd give it a few more years before considering a major upgrade (unless, again, you're seeing bad performance in something that is making you want to upgrade right now).
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Dec 9, 2023 13:56
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Captain Yossarian posted:Currently rocking a 10900 and I'm wondering what would be a good upgrade for 1440p. I have a 6700xt right now and while it performs great, I am curious about my options, especially for stuff like Alan Wake 2. What's the best GPU I would want to pair with this CPU? 🤔 Probably would be between a 7800 XT or a 4070. You could really splash out and look to the 7900 XT or 4070 Ti, but I think you’d still get plenty of frames and save a fair amount of cash notching down. The Nvidia card has the advantage for ray tracing and features (DLSS, Frame Gen, etc.), the AMD card offers better raster performance in most cases. Nvidia has a Super refresh coming too, but I don’t think they’re going to price them any better. I’d give Nvidia the advantage in general, especially for games like Alan Wake 2. Edit: SpaceDrake has some good points too.
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Dec 9, 2023 13:58
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SpaceDrake posted:
Thanks so much! m.2 slots are my real blind spot. I currently have a 4TB Seagate Barracuda for storage, a 250GB Samsung 850 Evo that has my OS etc and 1TB WD Blue 2.5'' SATA SSD for games. If I get the 2TB Z440 and only use that, what will that gen 3 m.2 limit me to.
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Dec 9, 2023 15:25
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SpaceDrake posted:The 6700XT remains an extremely beefy card that can get 60FPS+ in most not-raytraced titles in 2023; frankly, I'd just stick with it for a while. Your options for a meaningful upgrade are the 68000XT and up, the 7800XT and up, and the GeForce GTX 4070 and up (and a number of those are about to get SUPER versions, as noted), and unless you're willing to spend $Texas, frankly I don't think the uplift in current titles would be meaningful enough to notice. Are you experiencing trouble in any specific titles that make you want to upgrade? nitsuga posted:Probably would be between a 7800 XT or a 4070. You could really splash out and look to the 7900 XT or 4070 Ti, but I think you’d still get plenty of frames and save a fair amount of cash notching down. The Nvidia card has the advantage for ray tracing and features (DLSS, Frame Gen, etc.), the AMD card offers better raster performance in most cases. Thank you both! I actually managed to get this 10900 recently for about $115 on eBay so I probably won't be updating the platform anytime soon lol. You've both given me plenty of ideas though! I'm certainly not opposed to (and actually enjoy) tweaking settings so I will keep at it for now 
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Dec 9, 2023 17:47
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Keeper Garrett posted:If I get the 2TB Z440 and only use that, what will that gen 3 m.2 limit me to. Well, keep in mind that only the third m.2 is limited to that speed - that's the one on the lower left in this image. m.2 slots actually use the same PCIe lanes/connections that the big PCIe slots do, just in a different form factor - and the other two slots on the board use four lanes of PCIe 5 and PCIe 4, meaning they have a theoretical transfer rate of 128 Gigabits/second and 64 Gb/s (or in terms of Gigabytes, 16 GB/second and 8 GB/s). The two-lane PCIe3 slot, meanwhile, can only do 16Gb/s, aka 2GB/s. The problem there is that most "good", modern NVMe SSDs can push out more than 2 gigabytes per second of data in the best conditions, so they'll saturate the connection and you won't get the best possible transfer speeds. Now, 2GB/s is still a lot by most standards (by comparison, most SATA6 SSDs max out at around 550MB/s transfer speeds, so it'd still be four times as fast as a SATA drive), so unless the application is super reliant on the SSD you won't really notice, but it is still a potential bottleneck depending on what you're doing. The other two slots, meanwhile, can take pretty much any drive you throw at them and still not saturate (so we're talking about, like, 6GB a second transfer rates or higher). It's still a perfectly fine board, it's just a little disappointing to see with so many other products managing to squeeze at least PCIe4x2 performance out of a third slot. (Also, if I got anything wrong about all that, I'm happy to get yelled at by fellow goons. )
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Dec 9, 2023 20:25
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grack posted:If you want a quiet computer, don't buy a Hyte Y60. The airflow on that case is pretty bad, meaning that fans will have to be run faster (and thus louder) than competing cases. This really isn't something that can be "fixed" by adding a bunch of expensive case fans. If you're really married to the looks, some flavour of Lian Li O11 Dynamic is a better choice and should cost a similar amount once you add some decent fans. All good points, thank you. edit The Lian Li was the first one I saw that I liked and is a viable alternative. It's good to have confirmation on the general noise complaints being valid, that is useful. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Dec 10, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 01:18
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SpaceDrake posted:It's still a perfectly fine board, it's just a little disappointing to see with so many other products managing to squeeze at least PCIe4x2 performance out of a third slot. Great, I doubt I'll need that slow port so I think I'll get that board. I want a full size ATX and one with Wifi that isn't super expensive. The PCIe 5 at that price seems like a good deal too.
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Dec 10, 2023 01:41
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Piggybacking off SpaceDrake's posts, I've edited your list, because I'm also in Aus and was looking a parts for a friend anyway: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/W3Lt9c (edited to lock in suppliers) CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($589.00 @ Mwave Australia) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 A-RGB 68.9 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($179.00 @ Scorptec) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B650M-A WIFI II Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($239.00 @ Scorptec) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($199.00 @ Mwave Australia) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($329.00 @ Mwave Australia) Storage: PNY CS2241 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($289.00 @ Mwave Australia) Video Card: Asus ROG STRIX GAMING GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB Video Card ($2199.00 @ Mwave Australia) Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO ATX Mid Tower Case ($259.00 @ Mwave Australia) Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($219.00 @ Mwave Australia) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($31.00) Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($139.00 @ Mwave Australia) Total: $4671.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-11 12:05 AEDT+1100 I've left the CPU, main storage, case, power supply, and extra fans alone, and Windows 11 Home is just from Lodge North at SA Mart with a currency conversion. However, I have added Scorptec in as a second supplier for just two components, both of them in stock in Sydney (assuming that's where you are, or at least in NSW somewhere, based off your weather comment). I've used them from time to time down in Vic and they've been no problem. I've switched the cooler for an Arctic 280mm RGB model from Scorptec. Arctic's liquid coolers are outstandingly cool, quiet, and reliable, and also cheap! Mwave and Scorptec sells this and the 360mm model too, but they're out of stock there, and 280mm will be more than enough. PCCG does have the 360mm models in stock, if you were ok with ordering from them. Alternatively, if you're ok with air cooling, the non-RGB Thermalright Peerless Assassin can be had at Scorptec for just $49 and will also do the job easily. The slightly better (and RBG) Thermalright Phantom Spirit is $59, but you'll have to ship it into NSW right now. The motherboard picked is a similar one to SpaceDrake's recommendation, available at Scorptec also. One less M.2 slot and no back USB-C, but better onboard audio and built-in Wifi 6. Other changes are simpler. I've swapped your memory out for a 6000MHz CL30 model which will run faster. I've slotted in a 'cheap' 4TB NVME SSD as a secondary drive. I'm just trying to preserve your listed storage amount with this, but it depends on use case - if you think you'll need more program storage, a faster 1-2TB NVME SSD would be better than that. If you just need bulk storage, a cheap platter drive or even SATA SSD might be a good option. Since you have the budget now, I've swapped the 4070 Ti for a same-model 4080. Note that an AMD 7900 XTX will be a little faster, on average, for ~75-80% of the price, but you lose out on raytracing and somewhat better upscaling, so something like Cyberpunk 2077 will look better on the Nvidia part. I'm not into RBG fans, you may need a fan controller of some kind. Also, if that's not US$ for that monitor, that price is murder, I can't find anything equivalent for less than AU$999. Coucho Marx fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 02:05
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Branch Nvidian posted:Get this bundle from Micro Center: https://www.microcenter.com/product...er-build-bundle Adapting most of your recommendations and picking up most of it at Microcenter tomorrow with the Lian Li case. The graphics card has to be ordered, it's out of stock unfortunately. Thanks so much for the advice. Anyone able to recommend a good 5 to 8 port switch as well? I don't need PoE, it's just to plug the cable model into since my wifi unit only has one extra port on it. Will likely have the PC, wifi and a NES for plex at some point plugged into it.
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Dec 10, 2023 02:35
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So I received all my stuff way back on the 29th of November and shot off the new AM5 bracket request to Noctua the moment I had my invoice in hand. I received an email on the 6th of Dec saying they've shipped it, but they didn't provide a tracking number. Anyone else with experience in this, how long did the shipping take? All my stuff is sitting in a box right nest to me and I'm itching to get it up and running. Before anyone suggests using the box cooler for now, note that though the TJ08-E is a great case in terms of form and features (especially for something over a decade old) and looks good once it's all been put together and on my desk IMO, it's also a massive pain to work in and I don't want to have to go in a second time so soon after if I can avoid it. I ending up biting the bullet on a new PSU also for this reason, I was really put off by the thought of having to take that case apart just for a PSU swap down the line, so I thought I may as well do it while I'm taking care of the main build.
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Dec 10, 2023 02:53
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Kintamarama posted:So I received all my stuff way back on the 29th of November and shot off the new AM5 bracket request to Noctua the moment I had my invoice in hand. I received an email on the 6th of Dec saying they've shipped it, but they didn't provide a tracking number. Anyone else with experience in this, how long did the shipping take? All my stuff is sitting in a box right nest to me and I'm itching to get it up and running. They normally use FedEx, and you should get an email from “Rascom Computerdistribution GmbH” with the tracking ID and shipping confirmation.
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Dec 10, 2023 03:06
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This was the email I recieved; No tracking number included. Perhaps because it's heading Downunder?
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Dec 10, 2023 03:37
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Coucho Marx posted:Piggybacking off SpaceDrake's posts, I've edited your list, because I'm also in Aus and was looking a parts for a friend anyway: The only complaint I might register here is that the board is "just" two m.2 slots; with the modern AM5 and Alder Lake+ mobo chipsets, you no longer have to host 3+ m.2 slots by trading a whole lot of slot capacity and performance elsewhere, and it's one of the reasons I chose now to upgrade (I'm going to run three NVMe drives in my system eventually, to give myself at least 4.5TB of effective storage). That might not be a dealbreaker for others, though, and that is otherwise a perfectly fine and economical board. The only thing that amuses me is ASUS's insistence on providing VGA d-sub and PS2 support on their motherboards. I guess those might still have a use case...? D-sub is old enough to vote now, though, so I can't imagine a lot of monitors from the last ten years use it.quote:Alternatively, if you're ok with air cooling, the non-RGB Thermalright Peerless Assassin can be had at Scorptec for just $49 and will also do the job easily. The slightly better (and RBG) Thermalright Phantom Spirit is $59, but you'll have to ship it into NSW right now. So, alongside this, I did want to thank someone: Wibla posted:FanControl is your friend Thanks for pointing me to FanControl, Wibla. That's helped the noise situation a lot. So with more hands-on experience with the PA, I can say that it absolutely is able to handle the load from a 7800, but the one place they "cheaped out" on is that the fans can get loud under load, and if you just leave it to a motherboard auto-curve, the fans will get obnoxiously loud any time some sort of Real Computing goes on. This is extra distracting because they're frustratingly loud in bursts and then tend to calm down. So you want something like FanControl where you can just adjust fan behavior yourself; once you get it to be a bit more sensible, it's a fantastic cooler, if still a bit loud under major load (but then, I also think I'm spoiled by my Hyper 212 and Antec P100 being silent as a tomb, even under load, for eight years). (Also a tip for Pop Air users: in cold conditions, the fans will sometimes fail to turn on because they think the ambient temperature doesn't call for it in colder climates/times. You can use FanControl to ramp the fans up and then adjust them back to idle so that they'll start properly; they deactivate entirely around 21% speed.) So yeah, the Thermalrights are definitely worth considering, if you don't mind putting up with a little additional work/tweaking for noise management. Croucho's advice otherwise looks good, and as a Filthy Yank, I'll admit I have no idea what the PC supply situation in Oz looks like. If an Mwave/Scorptec vendor combo would be convenient, go for it. Kintamarama posted:So I received all my stuff way back on the 29th of November and shot off the new AM5 bracket request to Noctua the moment I had my invoice in hand. As a sidebar to this... doesn't your cooler come with an AM4 bracket? On the Pro RS, the AM4 and AM5 bracket mounts were identical. Or did you not have one at all because you were using an i7 8700K previously? I would think an NH-U14S would've come with an AM4 bracket in the box, even many years ago.
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Dec 10, 2023 13:33
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SpaceDrake posted:So, alongside this, I did want to thank someone:  Glad I could help!I've since more or less finished tuning my build for noise/cooling, at least without moving any fans around, and my setup looks like this (with MSI afterburner controlling the GPU fans):  Key points: - CPU fans max out at 60%. They're barely audible at that point. - 3x140mm front fans run at 750-800rpm even at idle. I can't hear them at that speed. Noctua 140mm can push 1500rpm at 100%, so it has its own curves. - GPU fans are set to never stop, I didn't like how heat soaked the GPU got if I used the fan stop function. - The 140mm rear fan has a different curve to the rest, trying to maintain positive pressure. It will ramp up when the CPU is under heavy load. I leave the front door of my Define 7 propped open a bit (to give the front fans an easier time pulling air in), but even then I can barely hear my computer under full load.
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Dec 10, 2023 14:10
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Did asus change the rog boot splash on the motherboards some time in the last 3 bios updates?
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Dec 10, 2023 18:54
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SpaceDrake posted:As a sidebar to this... doesn't your cooler come with an AM4 bracket? On the Pro RS, the AM4 and AM5 bracket mounts were identical. Or did you not have one at all because you were using an i7 8700K previously? I would think an NH-U14S would've come with an AM4 bracket in the box, even many years ago. I bought the U14S back in 2014.
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Dec 10, 2023 22:15
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What country are you in? United States Do you live near Microcenter? Yes What are you using the system for? Mostly web and gaming, but nothing high end (Paradox games, Minecraft, Dwarf Fortress, etc.) What's your budget? $1400, already have monitor/keyboard/mouse etc If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate?1080p monitor, generally medium to high, but again, I'm generally not playing newer games My current computer (7 years old, no upgrades since) is giving up the ghost, and I'm looking to replace it. I spent around the 1400 when I purchased my old rig, but with my current gaming not really being top-of-the-line AAA (the most graphically intensive game I play is BG3), I'm not sure if this build is going to have me paying for a lot more power than I'll ever use. The CPU/MB/RAM are a Microcenter bundle right now. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($369.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($215.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($107.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card ($319.99 @ ASUS) Case: NZXT H7 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1408.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-10 18:35 EST-0500
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Dec 11, 2023 00:45
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the_seventh_cohort posted:What country are you in? United States So for the same price, effectively, as the CPU cooler you selected the Peerless Assassin is a better cooler, so swapped to that one. Additionally for what you're playing I think an RX 6700 XT with 12GB of VRAM for $319 is a better buy than an RTX 4060 non-Ti with 8GB of VRAM. I left the SSD since you're playing stuff that will want high speed storage, but there is a TEAMGROUP T-Force SSD that is very good for quite a bit cheaper if you decide to save a little money there. Lastly I changed the case to the thread-favorite Fractal Design Pop Air since it's way cheaper and thermally performs better. Also altered the price of the CPU to match the Micro Center combo price (and zeroed out of the prices of the board and memory). PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($549.99) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z790-P WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($0.00) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($0.00) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($319.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1213.85 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-12-10 19:01 EST-0500
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Dec 11, 2023 01:05
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Well Amazon finally got around to delivering my 12700k so I was able to complete my upgrade. Everything went fairly smoothly, just a moment of "oh poo poo why won't it boot" because the Asus TUF z790 Plus WiFi motherboard comes set to UEFI-only and I had to find a buried setting to switch it to UEFI/Legacy(BIOS). I'll switch my main drive over with MBR2GPT shortly. The Kingston Fury Renegade KF564C32RSAK2-32 appears rock solid at the 6400 32-39-39-84 XMP1 profile. Going with a Asus listed ram kit seems to have paid off in the "it just works" department. My only complaint is that the Peerless Assassin 120 SE RGB fans are a bit high-pitched when they spin up. They are still quiet, just the tone is not my favorite. Right now they are set up in a pull-pull configuration to avoid interference with the RAM, would it make any difference from a fan noise tone standpoint to reverse the flow and have the in a push-push configuration? I could either swap the rear case fan to supply instead of exhaust, move the rear fan to the top of the case, or I could move my Noctua case fans to the CPU cooler and use the peerless fans as case fans where they won't spin up as much. Here's what the case looks like now:  Love my silly military styled Corsair c70 case  I wish there were an updated version with USB-C on the front panel and without the 5.25 bays.
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Dec 11, 2023 10:27
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Branch Nvidian posted:So for the same price, effectively, as the CPU cooler you selected the Peerless Assassin is a better cooler, so swapped to that one. Additionally for what you're playing I think an RX 6700 XT with 12GB of VRAM for $319 is a better buy than an RTX 4060 non-Ti with 8GB of VRAM. I left the SSD since you're playing stuff that will want high speed storage, but there is a TEAMGROUP T-Force SSD that is very good for quite a bit cheaper if you decide to save a little money there. Lastly I changed the case to the thread-favorite Fractal Design Pop Air since it's way cheaper and thermally performs better. Also altered the price of the CPU to match the Micro Center combo price (and zeroed out of the prices of the board and memory). Thank you for the advice! The Microcenter by me is sold out of the Rx 6700's, but they have a RTX 3060 12Gb at $279.99. Would that be a worthwhile card to look at?
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Dec 11, 2023 13:03
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the_seventh_cohort posted:Thank you for the advice! The Microcenter by me is sold out of the Rx 6700's, but they have a RTX 3060 12Gb at $279.99. Would that be a worthwhile card to look at? The RTX 3060 is a weaker card than the RTX 4060, and the added VRAM on the 3060 doesn’t make it a better deal. Would strongly recommend just ordering the 6700 XT from Newegg or Amazon. It’s a much better card for rasterized gaming, and based on what you listed that’s what you need/want over raytracing and AI upscaling.
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Dec 11, 2023 13:20
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Just finalising my daughter's computer. She's had her birthday and opened the components - I think she's pleased! After a discussion with her I have returned the solid Pop Air case and swapped it for one with RGB lights. I have a couple of questions about the graphics card related to this, and one regarding the Windows install. Current GPU is PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6700 XT, which lacks RGB. I read a review of the Red Devil version, which contains RGB lights. Reading the Overclockers review of the Red Devil, and some forum comments, it sounds like a bit of a faff making it work at times, although I noted from the review that you can get select "sync with motherboard" in the software settings, where I assume the control for the case fan RGB would also control the GPU lights. The review also mentions there is a red glow coming from the I/O section of the card which cannot be changed. So, queries: 1. This may be a bit specific, but does the non-RGB Fighter version also have these unchangeable red lights? 2. How much of a faff would it really be to get the lights on the GPU to work and sync with the case lights? 3. What part of the GPU is actually lit up with RGB lights? Basically I'm trying to decide whether it's worth replacing the GPU also to get RGB on there, or just stick with the RGB lights for the case only. I've found a good price on the Red Devil version, so no issues there, though I'd have to send back the Fighter. But I don't want her stuck with annoying lights on the GPU that she can't change (both the I/O ones that cannot change at all, and the RGB ones which might be tricky to make work), and maybe the effect is minimal anyway compared to the case fan lights. Two other questions: 4. Having read a few articles and watched a couple of vids I'm relatively comfortable with a lot of aspects of the build, except for connecting all the power cables from the PSU to the case - i.e. making sure everything is connected to the right bit, daisy chaining the fans etc. It may be that once it's all in front of me it will be clear, but any guidelines or tips for not screwing this part up would be great. Maybe I'm overthinking it, and I just need to read the PSU's manual, but when watching a video of someone installing a PSU in this case, they immediately knew which cables to thread through which holes in the case before connecting up, which I wouldn't. 5. I've made a USB boot drive with Windows 11 Home on it, and bought a key from the recommended thread on here. There's a post upthread which I have open on my desktop at home, that says that to make an offline account when setting up, to avoid Windows setting up all your folders as Onedrive ones. Ultimately I want to mirror the setup on my own machine, where I have an admin account and she has a connected child account, controlled by MS Family settings. Obviously these accounts need to be online ones. I assume I can just follow the instructions in the post to set up an offline acount, then when it's installed set up my admin account as per on my own machine, set up a child one with the same log in as the one on my machine (both using same email addresses as the accounts on my machine), then afterwards delete the offline account made when installing Windows? https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/mXLvdH
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Dec 11, 2023 15:24
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OneSizeFitsAll posted:Just finalising my daughter's computer. She's had her birthday and opened the components - I think she's pleased! After a discussion with her I have returned the solid Pop Air case and swapped it for one with RGB lights. I have a couple of questions about the graphics card related to this, and one regarding the Windows install. 1. Wasn't aware of there being an RGB and non-RGB version of the Fighter card. I'd assume the non-RGB one doesn't have any lights at all. 2. The Red Devil has an ARGB header on the card that you can link to an RGB header on the motherboard and control the lights on the card directly from another RGB/peripheral software like Corsair iCUE or the motherboard brand's own lighting software (Aura Sync, Mystic Light, etc.) 3.  OneSizeFitsAll posted:Basically I'm trying to decide whether it's worth replacing the GPU also to get RGB on there, or just stick with the RGB lights for the case only. I've found a good price on the Red Devil version, so no issues there, though I'd have to send back the Fighter. But I don't want her stuck with annoying lights on the GPU that she can't change (both the I/O ones that cannot change at all, and the RGB ones which might be tricky to make work), and maybe the effect is minimal anyway compared to the case fan lights. Honestly the Red Devil cards are factory overclocked and have much better cooling than PowerColor's other variants, so if you found a price you're comfortable with on one I'd say get it anyway, regardless of the RGB stuff, just because it will be a better card overall. That said, due to lacking direct hands-on experience with the GPU I can't say for certain one way or the other which will work better for the lighting concerns, though the rear IO is only going to be at the rear end of the computer, so it's unlikely it'll actually be noticeable. 4. Using the perspective of looking directly at the motherboard's front (the side you put the CPU into) you will need the 24-pin power cable to go to the right side of the board, the 8-pin CPU power (might be a 4+4 pin connector) to the top left of the board, front panel headers (USB, microphone/headphone jack, power button, reset switch) will be at the bottom right and right-side edge of the board south of the 24-pin plug. The GPU will, depending on which model you get, use a 6-pin and an 8-pin power connector (probably a 6+2 plug) or two 8-pin power connectors (again, probably 6+2 plugs). Any 2.5" SSDs or 2.5"/3.5" HDDs will plug into the the SATA connectors on the right-side edge of the board as well. The RGB header on the motherboard that you might connect to the GPU if you get the Red Devil will be on the bottom edge of the board and listed as either D_LED or LED_C. Refer to the manual to know which of these you need to use for it. OneSizeFitsAll posted:5. I've made a USB boot drive with Windows 11 Home on it, and bought a key from the recommended thread on here. There's a post upthread which I have open on my desktop at home, that says that to make an offline account when setting up, to avoid Windows setting up all your folders as Onedrive ones. Ultimately I want to mirror the setup on my own machine, where I have an admin account and she has a connected child account, controlled by MS Family settings. Obviously these accounts need to be online ones. I assume I can just follow the instructions in the post to set up an offline acount, then when it's installed set up my admin account as per on my own machine, set up a child one with the same log in as the one on my machine (both using same email addresses as the accounts on my machine), then afterwards delete the offline account made when installing Windows? Once you've made your admin and child account on the computer you can then connect it to the internet and sign into your Microsoft account(s) which will get it paired. You don't have to make temporary dummy accounts that you'll then delete or anything.
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Dec 11, 2023 16:20
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OneSizeFitsAll posted:1. This may be a bit specific, but does the non-RGB Fighter version also have these unchangeable red lights? Go on PC Part Picker and search for your specific model of GPU and you'll find people that have built with it, reviewed it and posted pictures of their build. I just checked and there's pictures of builds with both: the Fighter card is absolutely plain, no lights. Go check the pictures to see the Red Devil. OneSizeFitsAll posted:4. Having read a few articles and watched a couple of vids I'm relatively comfortable with a lot of aspects of the build, except for connecting all the power cables from the PSU to the case - i.e. making sure everything is connected to the right bit, daisy chaining the fans etc. It may be that once it's all in front of me it will be clear, but any guidelines or tips for not screwing this part up would be great. Maybe I'm overthinking it, and I just need to read the PSU's manual, but when watching a video of someone installing a PSU in this case, they immediately knew which cables to thread through which holes in the case before connecting up, which I wouldn't. Read the manuals. From looking at your PSU, it already comes with the 24 pin motherboard cable, two 4+4 CPU cables and one 6+2 PCIe cable attached (this is the semi bit of the semi modular description). You'll want to attach the 24 pin mobo cable and one of the 4+4 CPU cables (you don't need the other one) to your motherboard, the PCIe cable to your GPU, and you'll need to use the additional PCIe 6+2 cable between your PSU and GPU as well. Unless you have SATA drives or anything that should be it for PSU cables. OneSizeFitsAll posted:2. How much of a faff would it really be to get the lights on the GPU to work and sync with the case lights? How long is a piece of string? In theory these things are all supposed to play nice together and there's unifying software that should control everything but in practice it can be a bit of a dick to get working. I had some weird edge case with a PC I built recently where the RAM RGB strips weren't recognised by the software so I had to go hunting for an older version of the software that was apparently much better and also detected the RAM. OneSizeFitsAll posted:There's a post upthread which I have open on my desktop at home, that says that to make an offline account when setting up, to avoid Windows setting up all your folders as Onedrive ones I don't want to poo poo on that post but I double checked for myself later and without doing any of that complicated set up, I don't have anything on onedrive and all of my folders are where I'd expect them to be. You do have to be aggressive when you're setting Windows up in turning Onedrive off and stopping it from opening at startup etc but it seems possible to tell it to gently caress off without having to surgically cut it out when installing windows. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 16:33
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I have a PowerColor Fighter 6700 XT and it's as vanilla as it gets, just a two slot two fan black box with nary a glowing bit. To add to what Branch said, the cooler on the Fighter is smaller than the one on the Red Devil model but I've found it to still be totally sufficient, though a bigger cooler would have to work less to do the same job.
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Dec 11, 2023 16:41
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Some additional info for this bit:OneSizeFitsAll posted:i.e. making sure everything is connected to the right bit, daisy chaining the fans etc. It may be that once it's all in front of me it will be clear, but any guidelines or tips for not screwing this part up would be great. Your fans don't connect to the PSU, they'll get their power from the motherboard fan headers. Because you've got the RGB version, each case fan will have two cables - power and RGB. If you're sticking with the stock layout (and no reason not to) it'll be easiest to run the rear fan to its own header, the CPU fans to a separate header (I assume they'll come with daisy chainable power cables), and the two front fans to another header (again, daisy chained). About the RGB, I lied in my previous post - your case has an RGB controller built in just under the top panel I/O, which takes power from a SATA power cable which will also need to connect to your PSU. For controlling the lights of the fans, you have two choices - daisy chain the RGB fan cables together and connect them to the case's RGB controller, and then you can directly control the fans with the button on the top of the case, or connect the daisy chained RGB fan cables directly to the RGB header on your motherboard, where you'd be able to control them with software. If you don't have any other RGB components in your system (which right now, you don't) it'd be easiest just to connect them to the inbuilt case controller IMO, it has some nice options. Here's some pictures of my nephew's build in the Mini version of your case, also with minimal/no RGB other than the case fans: Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 16:52
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Butterfly Valley posted:I don't want to poo poo on that post but I double checked for myself later and without doing any of that complicated set up, I don't have anything on onedrive and all of my folders are where I'd expect them to be. You do have to be aggressive when you're setting Windows up in turning Onedrive off and stopping it from opening at startup etc but it seems possible to tell it to gently caress off without having to surgically cut it out when installing windows. Tbf it’s entirely possible I’m loving up some other setting that’s causing that to happen every time I install Windows 11 on something. That’s just the method I’ve found to get around the cloud-based folder thing.
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Dec 11, 2023 16:58
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Thanks for the helpful replies all, especially the power cable rundowns. So the case fans, and hopefully the GPU's fans if I got the Red Devil, are controlled by the mobo software. How do I daisy chain and hook up the case fans to the mobo? Do I need to hook them up to specific sockets like D_LED or LED_C to get the RGB features to work? edit: I missed your latest post, Butterfly Valley. In order to get the GPU and case lights to sync, would I need to hook things up a specific way? It would be great if she could change the colours of both the GPU and fan lights via the controller button on the case. OneSizeFitsAll fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 16:58
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OneSizeFitsAll posted:edit: I missed your latest post, Butterfly Valley. In order to get the GPU and case lights to sync, would I need to hook things up a specific way? It would be great if she could change the colours of both the GPU and fan lights via the case controller. I think that's unfortunately impossible, it's an either/or situation - have the case fans connected to the case controller, or have the case fans connected to the motherboard and synced with your GPU and controlled through software. My personal tolerance for spending time getting RGB poo poo to work is quite low, so my personal inclination would be to stick with your plain GPU and get the fans connected to the case controller and be done with it, without bothering with software or returning anything, but obviously I'm not your kid so ymmv. If you want to get the red devil and go that route it will be absolutely possible, it just might take a little more tinkering to make everything play nicely together and you'll have to figure out software control. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Dec 11, 2023 |
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Dec 11, 2023 17:05
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Thanks. Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. The fan lights should be nice enough on their own, and she'd prefer the convenience of the button I think. Maybe I'll check with her, though avoiding even more fiddling is certainly appealing to me.
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Dec 11, 2023 17:14
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OneSizeFitsAll posted:Thanks for the helpful replies all, especially the power cable rundowns. So the case fans, and hopefully the GPU's fans if I got the Red Devil, are controlled by the mobo software. How do I daisy chain and hook up the case fans to the mobo? Do I need to hook them up to specific sockets like D_LED or LED_C to get the RGB features to work? Not with the button on the case. Looking through the manual it looks like the GPU's ARGB header can be linked to D_LED and the fans can be linked together and connected to the LED_C plug on the board. Then using Gigabyte's Control Center or some other software with RGB controls she can tell the devices to be whatever color.
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Dec 11, 2023 17:15
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