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Eavey Metal uses Khorne Red for a lot of shading (they rarely use Shades), you could try that. My go-to for red to orange is Mephiston, 1:1 Mephiston and Wild Rider, Wild Rider, 1:1 Wild raider and Fire Dragon, then just dot highlight Fire Dragon. Less is more, imo, but ymmv
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Dec 12, 2023 16:06
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Mederlock posted:Are they proper stone pieces of petrified wood, or are they just super weathered and dried out chunks of dead wood? The latter. They're quite crumbly, so I think reinforcing with PVA glue is the way to go. I'm also going to be in the forest again soon, so will keep a beady eye out for more. There's been a lot of cutting recently, so should have quite a lot of stuff to scavenge.
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Dec 12, 2023 16:30
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Finally put some paint onto my first proper raven guard, starting with a sergeant, but I'm a little stumped when it comes to the feathers I want it to be dark raven/crow like feathers, but have no idea how I'm gonna make it look good- maybe I want some green shade instead of the purple I've started with, no idea I'm excited about painting those kitbashed lightning claws, though!
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Dec 12, 2023 18:05
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Dark grey base and then green grey highlights?
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Dec 12, 2023 18:15
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My trick for black birds is to paint it all black, then layer a dark grey, then mix blue into the dark grey and do highlights, then green into the dark grey for more highlights.
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Dec 12, 2023 18:17
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Radiation Cow posted:The latter. They're quite crumbly, so I think reinforcing with PVA glue is the way to go. I'm also going to be in the forest again soon, so will keep a beady eye out for more. There's been a lot of cutting recently, so should have quite a lot of stuff to scavenge. A better way to reinforce wood is to use thin superglue. It soaks right in and forms a hard shell. No frosting because it soaks in but you'll need to matte coat it because it will be super glossy afterwards.
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Dec 12, 2023 20:17
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Bohemian Nights posted:Finally put some paint onto my first proper raven guard, starting with a sergeant, but I'm a little stumped when it comes to the feathers
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Dec 12, 2023 21:33
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 "show me your war face" this is like a 1993 space marine sergeant that I got off of ebay, soaked in 91% IPA, and tried by best at to do a Night Lords that people think is Emperors Children. I got more tac marines to paint, figure it was good to pick them up because of the primas marines, I got this guy for like 2 bux edt. I got a couple of kill teams to paint, but I picked up these tac marines to experiment with color schemes on cheap models
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Dec 12, 2023 23:10
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Kylaer posted:So here is a picture of a model I just did a few strokes on, with Ultramarine Blue contrast on one side and Black Templar contrast on the other, over Wraithbone primer You've got a lot of good feedback already, and I'm no expert, but 1) definitely don't start spraying directly at the mini, you want to be around 15cm away and start to the side then pass it over in short bursts. 2) Contrasts generally struggle over wide flat surfaces, but do well in lots of detailed crevasses (they're designed to run down and pool in lower areas, creating natural highs/lows) - while a flat surface will let it pool into splotches like in your second tank. You need to move them around a bit and also pick up any pools on flat/inappropriate locations. A long but good video, Vince V is a bit dry but he knows what the gently caress he's doing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jla40wPw7_U
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Dec 13, 2023 08:53
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Z the IVth posted:A better way to reinforce wood is to use thin superglue. It soaks right in and forms a hard shell. No frosting because it soaks in but you'll need to matte coat it because it will be super glossy afterwards. Oh sweet, this sounds like it will be a lot faster and hopefully less messy!
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Dec 13, 2023 09:58
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Jack B Nimble posted:
That’s a bit odd, black legion is really black, it’s not even really a contrast effect paint it should just give you a solid flat black coat. If you’re struggling with edge highlighting bolters try doing a broken chipped highlight with a light grey or steel colour. By that I mean rather than crisply trying to do eavy metal style lines just go along an edge doing small random dings, it’s significantly easier and looks pretty right for stuff like gun casings. Edit: I did these guys ages ago doing what I described on the guns and swords, you’ll have to zoom in a bit. https://www.instagram.com/p/CUR9VPvNw7y/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== If you poke around the black on the krieg is just edged using ironbreaker the same way. Mr Teatime fucked around with this message at 10:50 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 10:30
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So in addition to the gold that I actually used on my Saurus, I also bought a pot of... I think its name was Sigmarite. When I opened it though, I found that its consistency is most easily described as "sponge cake". I can poke it with my finger and it springs back to shape while barely leaving a trace. Do I just add water to turn it back into paint, or do I just write it off?
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Dec 13, 2023 16:00
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The Lord of Hats posted:So in addition to the gold that I actually used on my Saurus, I also bought a pot of... I think its name was Sigmarite. When I opened it though, I found that its consistency is most easily described as "sponge cake". I can poke it with my finger and it springs back to shape while barely leaving a trace. Do I just add water to turn it back into paint, or do I just write it off? You've bought a "dry" paint, which is supposed to be specifically for drybrushing with. Try experimenting with it, but personally I think they're a waste of time and prefer to use normal paints.
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Dec 13, 2023 16:08
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The Lord of Hats posted:So in addition to the gold that I actually used on my Saurus, I also bought a pot of... I think its name was Sigmarite. When I opened it though, I found that its consistency is most easily described as "sponge cake". I can poke it with my finger and it springs back to shape while barely leaving a trace. Do I just add water to turn it back into paint, or do I just write it off? It's a dry paint. There's a whole line of them and they're a lifesaver if you need to mass drybrush something like terrain. They're probably not as good as drybrushing with regular paint since you can't control the consistency that well, but they're extremely convenient to use. Stab paint with brush gently, swish on paper towel/texture palette and then drybrush away. Gold is probably not as good since you typically highlight gold with silver. I would recommend Terminatus Stone (warm off-white), Longbeard Grey (cool off-white) and Necron Compound (silver) as the most useful.
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Dec 13, 2023 16:19
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A fun easy way to paint gold is to use a yellowish contrast (iyanden, agaros dunes etc) and then drybrush gold over it. However, I find the GW dry paints to be completely worthless and unusable junk that doesn't even fulfill the task that it sets out to do. You can totally try to make it work and recoup those $6 you spent on it, or give it a shot and if it's too difficult just throw it away and get a gold that you can use in a variety of places.
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Dec 13, 2023 16:27
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Continuing my drybrush phase with more Orcs. Debating whether to continue drybrushing metals or try my hand at highlighting them instead. Drybrushing is so much easier, but I think I can get a better finish if I really learned to highlight/blend.  This one absolutely refuses to wear the yellow company uniform and is creating quite the scandal at the local Orc camp. 4 more models left to paint!
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Dec 13, 2023 17:48
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I still haven't primed my Palatine because I wanted to double-check that a couple of spots were intentional instead of mould lines. Because I was nervous at the thought of taking on faces, I ordered a number of head bits. I figured it would be both a means to practice and that if I had a bunch, I could just use the ones that turned out well. It seems the obvious thing to do with them would be cementing them to a sprue and prime them. Would it be wise to separate them to different sprues or holders when it comes time to paint them individually, or would it not matter as long as I allow them enough spacing?
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Dec 13, 2023 17:57
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Grab some wine corks, stab sprue into them, get some sticky tac and slap those heads on.
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Dec 13, 2023 18:35
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You can also use a pin vice to put a hole in their neck and mount them on toothpicks like Vlad the impaler
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Dec 13, 2023 22:39
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After transferring 20 pots to dropper bottles, I think I'll make sure to buy paint in dropper bottles in the future.
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Dec 13, 2023 22:48
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Spanish Manlove posted:A fun easy way to paint gold is to use a yellowish contrast (iyanden, agaros dunes etc) and then drybrush gold over it. However, I find the GW dry paints to be completely worthless and unusable junk that doesn't even fulfill the task that it sets out to do. You can totally try to make it work and recoup those $6 you spent on it, or give it a shot and if it's too difficult just throw it away and get a gold that you can use in a variety of places. I've found the ones I've named to be excellent and far more convenient and reliable than the equivalent non-dry paint. You don't get as much control since the consistency is set but when you're drybrushing terrain or 20 mechs it's a godsend.
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Dec 13, 2023 22:52
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WIP of my little free tank I’m thinking about hitting the edges with some brown and minimal metal, some precise shading
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Dec 14, 2023 01:16
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These tiny models next to pennies haunt me I close my eyes and I see pennies I look at my painting desk and it's pennies Mother calls, I try to answer but only pennies come out Helpennies me pennielease
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Dec 14, 2023 01:25
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Harvey Mantaco posted:These tiny models next to pennies haunt me It’s kind of hard to see from this angle but… let’s just say… Professor Shark drills his barrels 
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Dec 14, 2023 01:44
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Harvey Mantaco posted:These tiny models next to pennies haunt me This 'hobby' makes me penniless
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Dec 14, 2023 01:53
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Added three new tiny space-boats to my collection.
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Dec 14, 2023 07:40
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Lostconfused posted:After transferring 20 pots to dropper bottles, I think I'll make sure to buy paint in dropper bottles in the future. Consider yourself lucky for discovering this early
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Dec 14, 2023 08:42
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Cardboard Fox posted:Debating whether to continue drybrushing metals or try my hand at highlighting them instead. Drybrushing is so much easier, but I think I can get a better finish if I really learned to highlight/blend. Drybrushing is a form of highlighting. Edge highlighting is just "I can't be bothered to remove the excess paint and moisture on the brush, so I'll just be super careful instead".
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Dec 14, 2023 08:53
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PoptartsNinja posted:Added three new tiny space-boats to my collection. Needs some pennies.
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Dec 14, 2023 10:15
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mllaneza posted:Drybrushing is a form of highlighting. Edge highlighting is just "I can't be bothered to remove the excess paint and moisture on the brush, so I'll just be super careful instead". But there's also volumetric highlighting, which is typically where getting smooth blends is more valuable. And drybrushing starts to lose its value a bit.
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Dec 14, 2023 10:40
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Z the IVth posted:Needs some pennies. do people generally paint their pennies with metallics, or is NMM the name of the game
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Dec 14, 2023 11:22
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Bohemian Nights posted:do people generally paint their pennies with metallics, or is NMM the name of the game Spray undercoat dark angels green, then a heavy dry brush of a couple of different brass paints, and an extremely light final dry brush of silver. Hit it with a black wash and you're done
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Dec 14, 2023 11:51
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Now I want to paint an NMM penny.
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Dec 14, 2023 15:29
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Z the IVth posted:Needs some pennies. Challenge accepted! 
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Dec 14, 2023 16:43
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mllaneza posted:Drybrushing is a form of highlighting. Edge highlighting is just "I can't be bothered to remove the excess paint and moisture on the brush, so I'll just be super careful instead". Radiation Cow posted:But there's also volumetric highlighting, which is typically where getting smooth blends is more valuable. And drybrushing starts to lose its value a bit. I think I'm just having inconsistencies with drybrushing, which is why I'm debating the whole thing. The concept is really cool, and when it works it can look really good. If we look at the shields below, I really like how drybrushing can bring out a subtle worn metal that would be difficult to recreate with a regular painting method:  But then when I try this technique on a larger model...  Well, it's not great.... The main issue is the amount of surface area that I need to dry brush. Some of the larger areas become "overbrushed" to the point where I should have just applied a normal layer of gold. Now, I know I can fix this by using sub-assembly painting. However, subbing each armor piece on 10 models is a lot of work.
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Dec 14, 2023 19:50
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PoptartsNinja posted:Challenge accepted! That's amazing, particularly the Taihou. 3d printed?
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Dec 14, 2023 20:03
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Cardboard Fox posted:I think I'm just having inconsistencies with drybrushing, which is why I'm debating the whole thing. The concept is really cool, and when it works it can look really good. I think it actually looks fairly good on the armor panels right now, and if you block in the leather details or fabric details like the leggings and undershirt along with the pleats around the waist it would probably look fine.
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Dec 14, 2023 21:09
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Cardboard Fox posted:The main issue is the amount of surface area that I need to dry brush. Some of the larger areas become "overbrushed" to the point where I should have just applied a normal layer of gold. Drybrush, then shade with something like Reikland Fleshshade or Guilliman Flesh, then go back and highlight with the original gold. Or use the gold to reestablish your midtone on the flat panels and highlight with silver. Either way, shading after drybrushing will bring depth back to the curved surfaces and shallow recesses.
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Dec 14, 2023 21:12
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Cardboard Fox posted:I think I'm just having inconsistencies with drybrushing, which is why I'm debating the whole thing. The concept is really cool, and when it works it can look really good. Your Stormcast looks kick rear end, actually and I agree with the above posters. Block in the details, hit it with some kind of wash to bring out the details and then do a very light drybrush on top over again and I think you will be much happier with the result. Unless you're a weirdo like David Soper or Richard Gray who basically paint an an arm or torso to completion in one go your miniatures will also look janky as hell while WIP.
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Dec 14, 2023 21:29
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Z the IVth posted:That's amazing, particularly the Taihou. 3d printed? Yeah, everything except the Fortress-class and the Blockade Runner is 3D printed. They're all 1:1000, which shows how much space a 'mech actually takes up in a 30 meter hex; and why the Taihou is such a menace. It's 1/4th the length of a Sovetskii Soyuz and nearly matches the length of the smallest Corvettes (like the Pinto and the Vigilant) I have the files for a Mammoth but it's too big for my printer. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Dec 14, 2023 |
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Dec 14, 2023 22:12
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