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Happening live on a Facebook group near you: the cheapest of landlord special hacks https://m.facebook.com/groups/ElectronicParts/permalink/2312142825641706/ Don't worry I've saved screenshots for the eventual legal case and/or when the post is inevitably deleted by the poster. The admins are in the comment section with the rest of us, they aren't taking it down.
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Dec 6, 2023 03:11
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| # ? May 23, 2024 19:07 |
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kastein posted:Happening live on a Facebook group near you: the cheapest of landlord special hacks can you post them? i clicked the link and got a white page that was empty save for a plaintext sorry, this content isnt available
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Dec 6, 2023 03:56
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Dec 6, 2023 05:41
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 Mao did nothing wrong.
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Dec 6, 2023 05:58
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$100 for a copier switch vs $20 to do it the right way.
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Dec 7, 2023 02:18
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Got a UPS question. I’m gonna be running a new 20A circuit for my sump pump and plan on sticking a UPS on there, an MGE Pulsar EX 3200RT, with an output of single phase 120V at 50/60 Hz. It’s got two battery banks of 6 x 12V - 9Ah. I only expect it to run for 10-15 minutes while I start and hook up my generator, with my sump pump pulling 12A and an assumed starting load of ~2100 watts. I don’t do electrical math, so I’m wondering if this would be an appropriate UPS for the setup. The UPS was free, so I’ve already got it, but I’m not gonna run a new circuit if the UPS won’t cover my butt.
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Dec 8, 2023 15:16
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In good condition that should get you over 20 minutes. All the stats on that thing form the manual I googled up says it should work fine. But it's old. And you're asking a lot of it. And did I mention its old? And has lead acid batteries that you're going to be discharging at near 100% duty cycle. You are unlikely to get many power outage events out of them before they're toast.
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Dec 8, 2023 15:35
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If you can, open it up and look at the capacitors. If there's crust and crud then you get what you get and I wouldn't spend a dime on it. If it's all pristine inside then assume you're going to need to replace the battery string either yesterday or after first run. Your starting inrush is going to be a strain on old batteries, and is when the cells will fail. Assuming there's at all protection circuitry inside the UPS you should be fine. If you want to be extra careful go buy The Costco-est Sized Box of baking soda you can and store it right on top (or under-but-off-the-floor, really) the ups. If it all goes to poo poo you're going to want it.
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Dec 8, 2023 15:54
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Measure the actual running load of the sump pump and check what duty cycle it actually runs at in your usage. It's very unlikely your sump pump runs 24/7, unless your house is somewhere a house should not be.
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Dec 8, 2023 18:36
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The batteries are all fresh Duracells, and the internals are clean and were cleaned on a regular basis. We used them as scientific instrument UPS at work and they had diligent service and battery replacements. The old part of the thing is basically the logic board and the internals (and the frame and everything else), but the batteries and contacts are good. We’re just retiring this generation of UPS so I got one for free.
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Dec 8, 2023 21:23
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The batteries are worth more than the rest of that thing. Score. Full tilt sump pump running is still gonna destroy them pretty quickly, so if that's a thing that's going to happen you're better off with a 12v sump pump and deep cycle/set of deep cycles and a charge controller. Those will last through repetitive rips down to 6 volts or whatever. Then again, its free so may as well just apply it to the problem and see what happens unless you've got something better to do with that thing.
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Dec 8, 2023 22:58
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Basically I only want it to cover the worst case scenario of the ten minutes where the water is rising and the powers out but I haven’t plugged the generator in yet. If it kills the batteries keeping the basement dry then it did its job and died a noble death.
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Dec 8, 2023 23:49
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Got a UPS question. I’m gonna be running a new 20A circuit for my sump pump and plan on sticking a UPS on there, an MGE Pulsar EX 3200RT, with an output of single phase 120V at 50/60 Hz. It’s got two battery banks of 6 x 12V - 9Ah. too bad the office didn't spring for the fuel cell version MGE Press release from 2004 posted:The modular 700 VA, 1,000 VA and 1,500 VA models complete the Pulsar EX RT family that now ranges from 700 VA to 3,200 VA. Complete with hot-swappable batteries, the Pulsar EX RT 700 VA, 1,000 VA, 1,500 VA, 2,200 VA and 3,200 VA models feature a versatile form factor suitable for use in free-standing tower or compact 2U rack configurations.
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Dec 9, 2023 05:04
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The fuel cell is just a modular plug in, like extra battery banks, so it’s still a possibility!
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Dec 9, 2023 20:13
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I'm the guy with a kitchen light whose knob-and-tube wiring conked out. I've looked around for electricians, they're pretty hard to come by right now, and/or don't give me confidence that they could do a better job than I could myself. For context, I ran all the circuits for my workshop (lighting and two runs for outlets), as well as the RMC for the exterior run back to the main panel, all permitted and inspected. So I'd characterize myself as "not clueless, but not a professional" when it comes to wiring. Do y'all think this plan would work for pulling in fresh wire for the light? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNND3BGLGdQ The tl;dr is that there's boxes in the garage that I should be able to branch off of. I'd need to open up the drywall enough to get access to them and run new cable, up the wall, through the joists, and to the switch and the lighting box. I just need to figure out how to do it without opening up too much of the drywall. I think that realistically, I'll probably need to open up everything from the garage switch up to the ceiling, and ditto with the light switch up to the ceiling above it (which will mean removing the shelf above it). And then open up a decent-sized hole in the kitchen so that I have enough room to drill through the joists and to fish wires.
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Dec 9, 2023 21:35
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Given knob-and-tube wiring, are you sure you have drywall? You might be playing with plaster instead, which is a different, deeper hell to fix up.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:33
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At least some of what was probably plaster has clearly been replaced by drywall. Knocking down old plaster ceilings and replacing just that part with drywall isn't uncommon and I'd bet a bunch of that kitchen is drywall. Old garage walls are pretty hosed up looking, could be either hosed up drywall or old plaster, hard 2 say.
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Dec 10, 2023 18:48
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I am 100% confident that these walls are drywall, because I replaced them myself when I moved in. The old walls (which were also drywall) had this nasty fake brick facade on them, which the previous owners had painted over in a pastel lime green. This is a good reminder though, because I've managed to find this photo of the opened-up wall between the kitchen and the garage:  Link to full size Two things to note about that photo: the power to the box I wanted to branch off from is also knob and tube, and the vent completely fills the space above that box. I do see that the box that powers the refrigerator (in the bottom-left of the photo) is fed by a metal-clad cable of, presumably, romex...but there's cabinets covering the wall above that outlet now, and with all the plumbing in that wall, I'm leery of doing anything blind. ...poo poo. I think probably pulling romex off of that switch box next to the door is still my best bet? Just go through the stud into the adjacent cavity, then go up to the ceiling? TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 10, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 19:40
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Man, I'd be kicking myself so hard for not redoing it right that moment. Hindsight is a curse.
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Dec 10, 2023 19:57
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Yeah, but that was over a decade ago, and I didn't know enough about wiring at the time to know that there was a problem. Oh, well.
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Dec 10, 2023 20:00
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Ouuuuuch. Yeah I would just start pulling wire and praying. Get some fish sticks to help with pathing.
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Dec 10, 2023 20:30
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What are some premium decora-style light switches? I have one tripping the gfci breaker when toggled off, and there is some arc'ing going on. I don't think there's anything particularly off with how it was wired.
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Dec 12, 2023 06:12
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:What are some premium decora-style light switches? I have one tripping the gfci breaker when toggled off, and there is some arc'ing going on. I don't think there's anything particularly off with how it was wired. Lutron Claro is my personal favorite. It turns into some real Patrick Bateman looking at business cards poo poo, but I think they're the highest quality with the best rocker feel and sound. Be careful though, they now have a Claro smart switch which isn't what you want. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Claro-On-Off-Switch-15-Amp-Single-Pole-White-CA-1PS-WH-CA-1PS-WH/203737001 Three way versions are also available. If you want to be fully fancy, get the matching Claro screwless faceplate.
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Dec 12, 2023 06:36
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The wiring gods have smiled upon me. When we had our K&T remediated we had the electricians cut in a few extra outlets. I don't have enough plugs in one spot so I decided I'd replace the one-gang box with a two-gang and put in two duplex receptacles. I've got everything I need, including my new two-gang old work box with the wings, since that's what the one-gang box was. I just pulled it out, and the electricians were nice enough to cut it in right up against the stud, so now I need to run to Menards to get one, but I can buy a Southwire SmartBox and screw it in directly to the stud rather than depend on the strength of the lath & plaster.
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Dec 14, 2023 19:24
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 I have this coming out of the wall and going to my garbage disposal. Doesn't seem correct to not have it secured somehow and its unfortunate it comes out between the two water valves. What should I do? Having that be an outlet for the disposal seems like the norm these days right? I'm not sure how I feel about putting an outlet there so close to the water but I don't really want to move it if I don't have to. Is it ok having one there?  I also have 3 feet of romex coming out of the wall in the dishwasher cavity going straight into the dishwasher. I don't believe you're supposed to put an outlet box there for the dishwasher and that I should have it in an adjacent box. Can I just run the romex through a hole into the side of the box? The new dishwasher going in has a junction box or a normal plug so it can get wired either way. Kinda prefer the plug. Should I run it through some sort of conduit I can secure to the wall? Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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Dec 15, 2023 00:25
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:
In my opinion the least amount of connections possible should be the safest for appliances in set locations such as dishwashers. You say you thought outlets for disposals and dishwashers are more common, but in my opinion they spre probably less common considering the amount of cost cutting measures put into new build homes. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Dec 15, 2023 16:22
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Not Wolverine posted:Regarding disposals and outlets vs direct wiring, I'm a little surprised you would prefer an outlet if you are worried about water safety. Regardless, either hookup style should be GFCI protected. This is completely wrong. In relative safety, in actual practice, in prevalence. GFCI outlets are the overwhelmingly common new standard, which is in fact required by code in a lot of places. Not only does it provide for GFCI but also you don't have some delivery driver from LowesDepot or idiot joe homeowner trying to do electrical work when they install a dishwasher. Voicing your entirely incorrect and contrary to testing, certification and code ideas in the electrical thread is strongly discouraged.
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Dec 15, 2023 16:26
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Yeah outlets are better in every way than a hardwire. Think about it, they let YOU install a dishwasher.
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Dec 15, 2023 16:40
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I hardwired my dishwasher the first time I temp installed it, thinking it was better. I put an outlet and a plug in for the final install because that sucked and made little to no sense.
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Dec 15, 2023 17:00
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option a: a receptacle serving as a disconnect for the cost of installing it once option b: a solid wire cable that makes for a horrible cord getting yanked around with its disconnect located in a panel somewhere and its connections made in a tiny little box located in the worst place on the appliance regional market conditions for solar installs and the annoyance of residential work have me looking at what else i can do in the field. i cannot stand fire alarm but i do enjoy programming/configuring things. i'm thinking commercial systems that require training and technical knowledge would be good to work on, but i have no idea how to break into that as a business
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Dec 15, 2023 18:42
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:option a: a receptacle serving as a disconnect for the cost of installing it once if you want to get into big integrated industrial building management installs look at the big commercial HVAC manufacturers and Siemens Desigo shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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Dec 15, 2023 18:56
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:option a: a receptacle serving as a disconnect for the cost of installing it once Out of curiosity would you be willing to say more about what regional conditions for solar installing make you want to avoid it?
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Dec 15, 2023 19:48
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Danhenge posted:Out of curiosity would you be willing to say more about what regional conditions for solar installing make you want to avoid it? states change their incentives (mainly tax rebates), utilities change the payout, interest rates rise. when one state has fewer installs coming in, generally another has more. there's only so many viable roofs to install on, so between the number already installed and the number who won't get it because the math no longer works (see above), this has made installing pretty nomadic. not really up to traveling for this work, especially as margins contract. shame on an IGA posted:if you want to get into big integrated industrial building management installs look at the big commercial HVAC manufacturers and Siemens Desigo thank you for giving me a starting point in my research!
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Dec 15, 2023 19:56
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Industrial controls would be a good spot to look into as well.
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Dec 15, 2023 20:09
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Edit: nevermind found another junction box and this one's rusty, bet the problem's there not the cable edit edit: more specifically, an outlet box with rusty screws on the outside and loose backstabs on the inside. Stack Machine fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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Dec 15, 2023 21:50
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Ok so outlets for both the garbage disposal and dishwasher are a good idea. Thinking about it some more, it seems like space might be kind of tight if I mounted some sort of junction box behind the dishwasher to then run some conduit into the next cabinet. I was at the pharmacy today and I saw they had a metal wall plate with a knockout flush against the wall with some flexible metal conduit running into the floor or something. That gave me the idea that for the romex coming out of both walls I could mount that to keep it low profile and then use a strain relief to secure it to the plate. Then I could run flexible conduit away from the water valves for the garbage disposal and into the cabinet for the dishwasher. So something like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-Metal-Electrical-Box-Cover-with-1-2-in-Knockout-58C6-25R/202590845 with this strain relief https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-90-Degree-Flexible-Metal-Conduit-FMC-Connector-91101/100155034 and something like this (which I guess is what the romex to the garbage disposal is? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-1-2-in-x-25-ft-Alflex-RWA-Metallic-Aluminum-Flexible-Conduit-55082121/100193695 into a metal box with strain relief Is this some redneck poo poo? Is a real junction box behind the dishwasher not going to be a space problem and I should just do it properly?
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Dec 16, 2023 04:07
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You want the receptacle to be in an accessible area, typically under the sink. You just run the appliance cord through to that cabinet to plug it in.
corgski fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Dec 16, 2023 |
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Dec 16, 2023 05:03
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metal wiremold might be easier, it's tighter inside the boxes but it's ideal for single romex runs. if you start running this in emt, changing over to mc cable or flex you're going to need the right fittings and tools. i have seen plenty of exposed&hardwired romex installations that were safer than unprepared conduit and metal cable installs. the plastic wiremold is really only good for tv cords and poo poo
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Dec 16, 2023 05:34
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Ran a 20A circuit on a fresh breaker with the UPS I posted about before. Everything works and nothing caught on fire. A success story!
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Dec 16, 2023 06:01
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| # ? May 23, 2024 19:07 |
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Ok so outlets for both the garbage disposal and dishwasher are a good idea.
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Dec 16, 2023 16:54
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