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Cease to Hope posted:eye know what you mean "Hey, look! I'm in The Residents!"
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Dec 24, 2023 18:00
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Z the IVth posted:Now I can't see it and I think it's probably just lost in compression but you did give that glorious ball a bunch of veins didn't you. i cheated with a very rough and chunky gradient from white to red. all of the eyes have a bit of red to keep them from looking too much like doll eyes. i'm planning a bigger one for the interior of a vehicle, so i'm probably going to have to resort to frayed red thread for that one. it was really easy overall! i was planning to post my process in a bit.
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Dec 24, 2023 19:04
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Man, I do not handle disappointment well. Lose all motivation to keep painting when something starts to look wrong or I make a big mistake.
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Dec 25, 2023 03:39
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Lostconfused posted:Man, I do not handle disappointment well. The secret to mini painting is knowing that things start off looking okay, then they look bad, then they look terrible, then all of a sudden they look great. The other secret is that you can just re-prime it. It's just paint.
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Dec 25, 2023 04:21
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All miniatures go through the ugly phase on their painting journey.
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Dec 25, 2023 04:28
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Also especially if you're painting a full unit, please don't focus on your flaws on a single model. Once they're all ranked up you won't even notice, the overall effect will look great.
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Dec 25, 2023 05:11
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Cease to Hope posted:
Okay, eyeball process: Before all of this, I made a blutac test eye with a pupil drawn in marker, to plan the model. This probably isn't strictly necessary, but it was helpful because I really didn't know what I was doing. (Originally, this was going to be a palantir-like seeing stone for an entirely different model, but prototyping it with blutac helped me figure out that plan wasn't practical.) Anyhow. I just made a ball of green stuff. You could use anything solid as long as you finish it with a couple coats of gloss medium before painting. I have a follow-up plan for a different model that is using a superball; anything works here. For this specific model, I made a ball that wasn't especially even, mashed it into place on the neck, smoothed and rounded the visible parts of the (still malleable) putty. I have silicone-tipped tools for this but a trashed brush with water or alcohol, or literally any tool you like, they'd all work. Once I was done smoothing it off, I popped the orb off, with a big fat impression showing where it would fit on the neck. I stuck a wire in the bottom for handling, painting, and pinning it to the finished model. Always use a longer wire than you think you need; you can cut off the excess. I marked the approximate location of the pupil with a marker, stuck the pin in some blutac to hold it up, and let it cure. Once it cured, I just primed it and painted it with a couple coats of pure white, enough for full opaque coverage, and re-marked the pupil. For the actual pupil, I just painted a circle of about the right size with VMC German Uniform, but you could use literally anything here. Start a little smaller than you think looks right. If your circle isn't even, just slowly and carefully expand it to even it out. Real irises aren't perfectly circular, either, so don't feel like you need to break out the drafting compass. If I were going to go big effort, I'd start with the darkest version of the eye color I own or can mix, then layer it up while creating the striations and variation of the iris. That's a lot of work, though, and  I just mixed some of my green with a dab of Citadel Retributor Gold, then brushed it strokes towards the center of the iris. Under a certain size I do like a little bit of a metallic, just because the flecks are a good lazy way to give it a semi-realistic texture. Once I was happy with that, I just drew the pupil with a pure black. Again, a little smaller than I wanted, then rounded it out, although this is probably easier to cover with our iris color. Plus, you're going to get one extra cheat in the next step. I then loaded my brush with too much of my white, then put a big dab of white somewhere overlapping the pupil as a reflective highlight. At that point, all the hard work is done. The easy stuff is handling the back of the eye. You can leave this blank but it felt more like a marble or an eye in a crystal ball. What I did is painted the back 1/3-ish solid red (wanna say it was Citadel Mephiston Red). The edge of this does not need to be even at all, and honestly a splotchy, uneven coverage only helps. While this was still wet, I mixed in some darker paint (prob VMC Royal Purple but it could've been anything) and just roughly blended in a darker center, not giving any concern for unevenness or splotches. The idea here was to imply flesh or gore in a very lazy way. You could go full on modeling and painting nerves or muscles if you want, but I didn't feel up to taking that on and this worked nicely for a big creepy freestanding disembodied eye. Once the red dried, I just blended the edge of the red back irregularly with strokes of a pink made from a mix of white and Mephiston Red. I didn't get all painting in the vessels, I just had big chunky uneven strokes of different pinks to imply more texture than was actually there. I think that's the way to go for any eye fingertip-sized or smaller. Sloppier is better here, since the brushstrokes are implying the texture and to don't want an even, circular border, just a bunch of irregular fingers and peaks of pinks all pointing towards the pupil. You do want to leave some white sclera around the eye but there should be some pink grasping for it when looking at the front dead-on. You can always add more pink or push it back with pure white. I used watered-down AP Red Wash as a bit of a glaze when I felt like the colors were too uneven. After that dried and I got the pinks done the way I liked, I hit it with a couple coats of some horribly cheap gloss medium I probably bought at a dollar store, then let it sit on my desk for weeks while I procrastinated about painting the actual model. Once the model was done, I cleaned most of the paint off the pin, cut the pin to length, and superglued the eye in place. I know a lot of this is breaking down very basic stuff, but I do want to emphasize that this is something literally anyone could do. I did not even get my circles perfectly circular and it turned out fine. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Dec 25, 2023 |
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Dec 25, 2023 06:24
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Yeast posted:All miniatures go through the ugly phase on their painting journey. Mine just usually stay on the ugly phase and barely get better
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Dec 25, 2023 07:34
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I am reasonably happy with this heat discoloration I just did on the barrels of my Legions Imperialis contemptors. (Seraphim Sepia, Druchii Violet, Drakenhof Nightshade; nothing novel about the technique.)    They're not done; I still need seal them with satin varnish and do an oil wash, but they're coming along.
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Dec 25, 2023 08:15
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 Looks like there's going to be more pennies in my future 
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Dec 25, 2023 15:39
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So I got a $60 games workshop gift card and have no citadel products other their mini holders. What're the best products to spend $60-$100 on painting supplies there?
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Dec 25, 2023 23:09
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I like the mould line remover cause it's pretty good for old kits like Tyranids. It just bulldozes those thick mold lines into nothingness. Not really a must grab item though. I would say grab Agrax Earthshade, Nuln Oil and a brown contrast paint of your choice. Even if you use stuff like oil washes or enamels, the acrylic washes are great for stuff you don't need the precision for like terrain. Brown contrast paint is just for tiny gribbly bits like leather pouches or belts. Just slap that poo poo on and move on with life.
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Dec 25, 2023 23:17
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The mould line remover is completely inessential and also I will never not have one because it's so goddamn useful, at least the first gen one is.
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Dec 25, 2023 23:29
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Mederlock posted:So I got a $60 games workshop gift card and have no citadel products other their mini holders. What're the best products to spend $60-$100 on painting supplies there? Get more mini holders for batch painting (not sure how many you already have).
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Dec 25, 2023 23:31
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tangy yet delightful posted:Get more mini holders for batch painting (not sure how many you already have). I got the small one and the large one for Christmas so far. I primarily do D&D minis, not down the warhams rabbit hole yet
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Dec 25, 2023 23:54
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Mederlock posted:So I got a $60 games workshop gift card and have no citadel products other their mini holders. What're the best products to spend $60-$100 on painting supplies there? Contrast paints. Some choice ones that I love because they're either super versatile or best in class are: Garaghak's Sewer, awesome and useful black/brown that is great for weathering and grime if you thin it down but a good wood, fur, or other natural brown. Imperial Fist Yellow, the only good yellow color I've ever used. Covers in a single coat over any undercoat that is bright than grey. Baal red, similar to imp fist but red. Striking scorpion green. This is vibrant and obviously bright, perfect for cartoonish orks and ooze etc. however you can just mix fluorescent paint into the other green ones and get a similar effect. Black Legion is a fantastically covering black, black Templar is similar but has more depth to the effect so it's not just BLACK Soulblight Grey. This is more of a white than grey but without any temperature to it so it's more versatile and you can shift the temp with the undercoat Contrast Medium, to thin all of these down for different effects Also any of the skin tones are fantastic
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Dec 26, 2023 00:25
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Lahmian Medium is really solid and quite a few yt painters finish their work with Contrasts to give it a really vibrant look.
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Dec 26, 2023 01:14
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Professor Shark posted:Lahmian Medium is really solid and quite a few yt painters finish their work with Contrasts to give it a really vibrant look. It was either Duncan or Peachy that did a video about painting plague marines that used them liberally to make rhem look gross and gnarly
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Dec 26, 2023 01:49
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It was Duncan. I don’t feel like buying more paints so I’m going to try and use some other methods using Shades to get a similar effect.
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Dec 26, 2023 02:08
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Got some painting done during Christmas  The Obliterator is actually a pretty decently chunky guy with a lot of detail but I had to keep telling myself not to get bogged down if I want to get my army done sometime this century
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Dec 26, 2023 02:36
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Yeast posted:you doing ok Scale? ROYGBVM
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Dec 26, 2023 03:56
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Thanks everyone, those sound like great suggestions and I'll grab what I can of those with what they have in stock 
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Dec 26, 2023 07:29
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Blood For the Blood God is a miracle and I've never found anything comparable (except that one Tamiya red whose name I can never remember)
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Dec 26, 2023 14:04
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I finally finished my warriors, pretty happy with how they came out. Still experimenting a little with the carapaces and skins, nice thing about them being organic is that they don't all have to be identical. Definitely prefer the darker blue with bright/sharp highlights that I got on the prime. Started assembling nids from the leviathan box, and holy hell have they come a long way with their model assembly and trimming compared to those older models.        
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Dec 26, 2023 15:03
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Cease to Hope posted:Blood For the Blood God is a miracle and I've never found anything comparable (except that one Tamiya red whose name I can never remember) I made my own out of some water effects mixed with red and brown paint.
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Dec 26, 2023 17:25
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Cease to Hope posted:Blood For the Blood God is a miracle and I've never found anything comparable (except that one Tamiya red whose name I can never remember) Oh dang, watched a video and that's a good effect, I'll have to get this too 
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Dec 26, 2023 18:36
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Cease to Hope posted:Blood For the Blood God is a miracle and I've never found anything comparable (except that one Tamiya red whose name I can never remember) Tamiya Clear Red. Lahmian Medium is pretty useful but it's literally just matte medium so you can get a giant tub of it for way less. I use to to seal up decals a lot since I put decals on over gloss medium.
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Dec 26, 2023 19:35
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Oh, here's another good question. What does everyone here do for paint storage, in particular for setups that need to be stored up and packed away on a shelf in-between paint sessions? I don't have room for a full-time hobby desk, so I'd like to find a better way to store all my paint and things better than a reusable shopping bag.
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Dec 26, 2023 20:35
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Makeup container with a lid.
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Dec 26, 2023 20:52
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Eej posted:Makeup container with a lid. A tool box or tackle box would also serve.
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Dec 26, 2023 20:54
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If you get something nice looking it can be kind of a showpiece. I have a paint carousel that I really like.
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Dec 26, 2023 20:58
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rantmo posted:The mould line remover is completely inessential and also I will never not have one because it's so goddamn useful, at least the first gen one is. Yup. Its role can be filled by the hobby knife you needed for other stuff anyway. But it's better at it and you can't do yourself nearly as much damage as a knife can.
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Dec 26, 2023 21:06
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IncredibleIgloo posted:If you get something nice looking it can be kind of a showpiece. I have a paint carousel that I really like. This owns
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Dec 26, 2023 21:08
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mllaneza posted:Yup. Its role can be filled by the hobby knife you needed for other stuff anyway. But it's better at it and you can't do yourself nearly as much damage as a knife can. The curved part of it is so goddamn useful for getting sprue connection points off of space marine legs and cylindrical poo poo like that too.
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Dec 26, 2023 21:08
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Mederlock posted:I'd like to find a better way to store all my paint and things better than a reusable shopping bag. It's not what you're needing, but anything for "nail polish" works really well for mini paint. 
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Dec 26, 2023 21:23
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Crosspost from the historicals thread, fun little test scheme speedpaint. edit-- Bonus Daimyo! 
Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Dec 26, 2023 |
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Dec 26, 2023 21:31
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Mederlock posted:Oh, here's another good question. What does everyone here do for paint storage, in particular for setups that need to be stored up and packed away on a shelf in-between paint sessions? I don't have room for a full-time hobby desk, so I'd like to find a better way to store all my paint and things better than a reusable shopping bag. I use an ikea Raskog, it cant be put on a shelf but it can be wheeled behind the couch when I want it out the way. It was ideal when I had fewer paints and things than I do now, but I'm kind of hitting the limit for it now tbh.
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Dec 26, 2023 21:35
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Prawned posted:I finally finished my warriors, pretty happy with how they came out. Still experimenting a little with the carapaces and skins, nice thing about them being organic is that they don't all have to be identical. Definitely prefer the darker blue with bright/sharp highlights that I got on the prime.
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Dec 26, 2023 22:14
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Yeah I like the yellow and blue, Tyranid painters killing it itt
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Dec 26, 2023 23:20
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Eej posted:Makeup container with a lid. Oh yeah that sounds to be the right balance of price and suitability, thanks!
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Dec 27, 2023 00:51
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