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I keep trying to paint some Custodes and I keep being unhappy with the color schemes I'm trying or some other reason. I thought I'd give them a shot because they're a small army that would be easy to paint but I keep making myself unhappy painting them. Starting to think I picked them up for the wrong reasons and I should let this idea go for now. Because when painting the guards I have, it's mostly fine. There's one or two models that I keep redoing or ignoring because of some issue, but most of the time I'm satisfied with how they end up looking.
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Dec 27, 2023 02:43
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Ok, so what are you unhappy with and what you you want to do instead?
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Dec 27, 2023 03:53
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 Figured I'd do something different
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Dec 27, 2023 05:37
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Prawned posted:I finally finished my warriors, pretty happy with how they came out. Still experimenting a little with the carapaces and skins, nice thing about them being organic is that they don't all have to be identical. Definitely prefer the darker blue with bright/sharp highlights that I got on the prime. This scheme is just excellent. I hope you post a write up once you've settled on your preferred recipe.
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Dec 27, 2023 06:06
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Lostconfused posted:I keep trying to paint some Custodes and I keep being unhappy with the color schemes I'm trying or some other reason. Well, if it helps, I've got a couple of photo posts in the thread of my Custodes Kill Team, and can get more if you want the inspiration. However, I'll second the Spanish Manlove posted:Ok, so what are you unhappy with and what you you want to do instead?
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Dec 27, 2023 07:13
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Mederlock posted:Oh, here's another good question. What does everyone here do for paint storage, in particular for setups that need to be stored up and packed away on a shelf in-between paint sessions? I don't have room for a full-time hobby desk, so I'd like to find a better way to store all my paint and things better than a reusable shopping bag. If you're using standard dropper bottles (Vallejo, Army Painter etc), search for "Alcohol Ink Storage". You will find a near endless variety of storage options. Alcohol inks are used in scrapbooking, and the scrapbooking folks are all about organization.
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Dec 27, 2023 07:45
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Spanish Manlove posted:Ok, so what are you unhappy with and what you you want to do instead? Aniodia posted:Well, if it helps, I've got a couple of photo posts in the thread of my Custodes Kill Team, and can get more if you want the inspiration. However, I'll second the And I keep running into various issues where either the gold doesn't look right, or the third color doesn't seem to fit well into the color scheme. I've tried purple first, but red probably looks better. https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dankanatoi versus https://www.goonhammer.com/codex-adeptus-custodes-9th-edition-the-goonhammer-review/img_0871_small/ another color scheme that looks decent to me is  but it's also way more complicated because it's kind of a brown monotone with lots of variation in lighting and shades. I'm not sure how I would paint something like that. Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Dec 27, 2023 |
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Dec 27, 2023 15:04
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Lostconfused posted:I'm trying to do some kind of black base with golden details color scheme instead of just all brass/golden look. With a third color for detail. Post some in progress pictures. Especially the gold. Keep in mind that most minis progressively look worse and worse the more paint you add, until like three quarters of the way through and then it starts to come together. Those Custodes paint schemes look sick, way better than the all gold. Almost makes me want to grab a few.
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Dec 27, 2023 15:58
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Visit Rynn's World - Peaceful Farmland as far as the eye can see...Southern Heel posted:I got some 15mm Void Rangers printed and while WIP I'm quite happy with how they look. Here's a like-for-like comparison with ~8mm and 28mm:
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Dec 27, 2023 16:02
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Mercurius posted:These look absolutely fantastic, I love the scheme. It's like a swarm of angry hornets turned into giant bugs and they have so much colour contrast that they'll look striking no matter how far away from them you are. Thanks for the positive feedback, you too Mr Prof Shark and Maneck. First time back in painting since I was 15 years old and I perhaps have unfair expectations of myself, so it means a lot. I'm excited to see how the scheme works out on the newer models. I liked the jormungandr hive fleet as a base but found the plain yellow and black a little boring for something as scary and adaptive and vibrant as tyranids, so I thought a deep ocean blue would work then, as I did the first gaunts I toyed with how to add character to the yellow carapace in either deepening to red or black. It helps that I literally bought the guys in the pics to mess around with. I'm happy with the painting strategy now (though I'm sure I'll tweak it a bit as I go), will post the breakdown when I get to my computer. I have a cool idea for von Ryan's leapers and lictors, I hope it works and I don't make gently caress on it.
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Dec 27, 2023 17:39
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Prawned posted:I finally finished my warriors, pretty happy with how they came out. Still experimenting a little with the carapaces and skins, nice thing about them being organic is that they don't all have to be identical. Definitely prefer the darker blue with bright/sharp highlights that I got on the prime. Very cool scheme! A whole force of these would look great together.     These assault marines are a blast to paint, but if I ever do another batch of 5, I'll definitely paint the jetpacks separate from the models. Didn't think I had another figure in me this year, but my girlfriend's excitement to paint the stuff she got for christmas inspired me to paint along. Got her the red gobbo, so she intends make some kind of christmas tree ornament for next year with it!
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Dec 27, 2023 19:48
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 Night's Watch
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Dec 27, 2023 19:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
That is great, very naturalistic.
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Dec 27, 2023 20:36
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Bohemian Nights posted:Very cool scheme! A whole force of these would look great together. Thanks, those marines look great. I really like how you did the jet boosters and their little heel boosters - they capture the energy really well. In terms of the colour scheme for the nids, I've settled on a zenithal prime to start. I then use a leviadon blue contrast mixed 1-2 with contrast medium, as I found it's really strong and you just end up with dark blue and no contrast if you use it straight. 1 parts leviadon to 2 parts contrast medium leaves it quite washed out, but I then do a second application and swish it around a little (especially on the tail) to create some patches, stripes and such for a slightly organic feel although it doesn't show too great on the pics. I made up a mix of carroburg crimson equally with contrast medium, with a little dash of nagaroth night for the guns and under the tails by the vents holes, and when I did the guns I applied it quickly after the leviadon blue to blend it a little as I didn't want a hard contrast - I thought the guns have grown out of them, and shouldn't look like a completely separate item.  Then I do the vents with kakaphon purple with a carroburg wash, highlighted with a dechala lilac.  The carapace was painted with wraithbone, to clean up the splashed blue and prep it. Then I used imperial fist yellow straight which is just loving amazing, I can't believe how well it covers, but you need a pure colour underneath. I then glazed in towards the base of the shell plates using troll slayer orange first, working up to word bearer red. I used a glaze of averland sunset to work it back down (up?) and glazed the ends with flash gitz yellow. I marked the shell-lines with naggaroth night rather than black, I found it more forgiving and it merges with the red nicely. Then drybrushed hexos palesun, and some light wraithbone highlights. Glazed with cassandora yellow to finish.  On the prime I tried to make him more red as a kind of threat display, but I got tired of blending so it ended up kinda streaky which is its own thing. Guy below has the more blended carapace style.  I did the eye sockets red, then the eyes themselves black (tough to see), and I finished by highlighting the skin with increasing degrees of temple guard blue mixed with corax white, trying to bring down with night lords blue where needed. I wanted to highlight the skeletal aspects to make them more reminiscent of a xenomorph. Skin was glazed as a finish with equal parts drakenhof nightshade, nuln oil, and lahmian medium. I probably used too many paints for all this, but I have them and its fun. My biggest overall takeaway is that I am poo poo at wet-blending but glazing is cool and good just takes forever. It doesn't help that our climate is loving dry and hot, so I have to work super quick otherwise the paint is dried in the brush before being applied. P.S. terradon turquoise is an amazing paint, if you are at all inclined towards using a similar colour in a scheme give it a try (it just didn't fit my main theme).
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Dec 27, 2023 21:22
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I haven't finished a model since my Carroburg Crimson messed up a model twice a few weeks ago but I'm tweaking how I paint my Squats I'm getting better at highlighting since I quit energy drinks.. 
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Dec 27, 2023 21:59
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Shoehead posted:I haven't finished a model since my Carroburg Crimson messed up a model twice a few weeks ago but I'm tweaking how I paint my Squats Yeah, but I bet your stippling game is down 40%
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Dec 27, 2023 22:25
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About a year ago, I painted my first mini: a space marine. I have been reading the thread since then and picked up a great deal. A lot of the talk went straight over my head in the beginning but some things stuck (lucky for me) so thanks for that. Also, you people are amazing painters! December 24th, 2022:  December 27th, 2023: this Kruleboy is about 90% finished. I need to finish details, do some highlighting and basing but this is the best thing I painted to date. Real happy with my progress!    Still a lot to learn and do, but one step at a time.
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Dec 27, 2023 22:33
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They look even better in those different angle pics because the blue is more obvious. I think this one that I've quoted finally allowed me to work out what I really like about it which is that the skin and carapace are almost the 'classic' colours that Genestealers use in GSC box art with the chitin being a completely different but complementary colour instead of the same blue as the rest of it like GW does.
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Dec 27, 2023 22:35
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sixth and maimed posted:Still a lot to learn and do, but one step at a time. You're doing great, nice work!
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Dec 27, 2023 23:18
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sixth and maimed posted:About a year ago, I painted my first mini: a space marine. I have been reading the thread since then and picked up a great deal. A lot of the talk went straight over my head in the beginning but some things stuck (lucky for me) so thanks for that. Also, you people are amazing painters! The attention to detail on your ork boy is superb, lovely work.
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Dec 27, 2023 23:27
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Painted up a couple of Stuka fighters for BattleTech. They each have their wingman reflected in their cockpit glass.     I picked cold war / F-86 Saber colors because I thought it helped sell how comparatively old the design is in the setting.
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Dec 28, 2023 02:49
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Decided to go the opposite way and try it out this way Need to do a bunch of shading to add some depth I think.
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Dec 28, 2023 03:09
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Lostconfused posted:Need to do a bunch of shading to add some depth I think. I like where you're going with that, let's see the post-shading photos!
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Dec 28, 2023 03:49
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Lostconfused posted:I'm trying to do some kind of black base with golden details color scheme instead of just all brass/golden look. With a third color for detail. Ah, so you're looking for something like the Shadowkeepers, then. Well, if you go back and look at my Custodes, I use Vince Venturella's gold recipe, and it is absolutely wonderful, so I can't recommend it enough. Before I get too far ahead of myself, though, would you mind if I asked which paints you're using for both the blacks and golds? Might just be as simple as using a cool black with a warm gold, and having the tones clash way more than you want them to. Of course, if you want to go with the brown armor instead, I'd recommend checking out the 'Eavy Archive, take a look around and see which recipe catches your eye. My personal thoughts would be either the Brown Undersuit from the Starstreak Cadre, or the Worn Leather Cloak from the Primaris Chaplain. Whatever you choose, it almost feels like you want a worn dark leather as a baseline, only highlighting the color as armor, with sharp, thin highlights, instead of a more diffuse and blended highlight like what leather and fabric would get. As for the accent color, red is definitely a good option, as it goes with both black and yellow/gold quite well. Purple, too, though I'd probably go a little darker than the Dank 'stodes in the picture you linked. Wild card option, go white. Ulthuan Gray basecoat, Apothecary White "wash", and a White Scar highlight would absolutely get you there. Toss a few red gems on there, and all of a sudden you have the Zorn palette. Lostconfused posted:Decided to go the opposite way and try it out this way ...and of course you post an update as I'm replying.  My only concern with the cream/bone/whatever and gold, is that they're close enough together the gold accents might get a little lost without defining the armor well. It does look good, don't get me wrong, but just to make sure it's not a block of white gold against the purple, I'd recommend using a warm brown shade on the armor, using sepia to line the armor panels, while washing the gold with a thinned purple shade. Sounds weird, but purple is nice to compliment and contrast the yellow-y gold, while also tying it to the cloak. Targor Rageshade might be pretty clutch here, too, as it's a mix of brown and purple, so shading your gold with it would make it work with both the cloth and the armor. I'd say try it on a bit of sprue first, though, just to see how you like it all together, before going with it on your models. If it helps, it looks like you might be getting close to the Solar Watch color scheme, so searching other Solar Watch Custodes might help you get an idea as what to do with them and how to paint up the armor. Aniodia fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Dec 28, 2023 |
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Dec 28, 2023 05:44
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 I think that's all the non-metallic colors I'll use on this, next it's the metals, then shading (how do you shade snow? I guess I'll avoid that) then cleanup, then highlights. I'll probably add stripes to the TNT on the highlights part edit: I feel like I'm loving up somewhere even at this stage of the process but I'm not sure how to articulate it. Most of my complaints so far on this model is that some areas are hard to get to, but for the actual painting I feel like I'm missing something. Maybe it's the brush control in overspraying, and then needing to go back and retouch up the areas, or maybe i'm not undercoating properly (went with grey instead of black this time), or something, I'm not sure. There's still work to do on the model but idk GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Dec 28, 2023 |
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Dec 28, 2023 11:15
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Haven't tried it but I assume you just wash white with light blue and then drybrush back up with white
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Dec 28, 2023 11:30
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I'm painting a Spartan Assault Tank (will play as a Land Raider for my Custodes exiles). It's the first tank I have ever painted, so I was a bit nervous going into it. I borrowed a friend's airbrush for the hull (which is Night Scales), and spent most of today laboriously painting the treads with a normal brush (Warplock Bronze with Screaming Bell drybush). I think it is going pretty well so far! My overall army colour scheme is largely just a palette swap, where instead of gold I paint a near-black steel, and instead of steel/silver I paint bronze and brass. The treads have a really nice patina that doesn't come across well in the photo, but looks great in person. Of course, my partner is as always outdoing my completely, this time with a rainbow Yvraine. 
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Dec 28, 2023 18:20
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A question about brushes. I bought a set of the artis opus brushes, well three sets technically (series s, m and d). They're all kolinsky sable I believe. Generally the quality is very good and you can definitely tell the difference coming from basic citadel brushes, feels like the paint just flows better. However, a couple of them starting splitting almost immediately and have quite a few stray hairs (ie 5+), pretty much out the box and from first use. Is that normal for the sable brushes, do I just trim the strays and crack on? Unfortunately it was a pain to get them from the UK so can't really send them back, so if that's not right I'll just have to chalk it up as an expensive lesson.
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Dec 28, 2023 18:32
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It should be fine if the brushes can be formed back into a fine tip after you wet them.
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Dec 28, 2023 18:37
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Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25.
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Dec 28, 2023 19:04
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EdsTeioh posted:Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25. I've had results from DD range from "wtf is this trash" to "how is this happening is magic real??" It seems so finicky. I really like their moss though.
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Dec 28, 2023 19:13
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EdsTeioh posted:Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25. I got gifted their 3 set in xmas 2022 and haven't had the chance to even crack the bottles open...terrain might be a good idea one of the other things too, is I hear they're a pain with sealing them with varnish and it ruins the effect, brush on is likely to brush the effect off and you pretty much have to like use an airbrush and do like a "spray...wait....see how it's going, continue spraying? spray" a little bit at a time to not re-activate it GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Dec 28, 2023 |
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Dec 28, 2023 19:31
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Yeah, I'm definitely only getting the former. My normal technique is AK crusted rust deposits, which comes out like this:  Recently I tried this stuff called Modern Masters Metal Effects which essentially involves painting on goopy paint with iron filings in it and then spraying what is essentially diluted hydrochloric acid and letting it actually corrode the iron. It comes out like this:     And here's messing with DDR:   TERRIBLE tide marks, no real variant in the rust color at all and it doesn't even look like rust. At first I thought this wasn't working terribly well due to the semi-gloss spray paint that someone (not me) painted those bulkheads with, so I blacked another one out, drybruished on some dark metal and tried again:   Not really sure if I got a bad batch of this stuff or what but man this fuckin sucks.
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Dec 28, 2023 19:40
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Prawned posted:A question about brushes. I bought a set of the artis opus brushes, well three sets technically (series s, m and d). They're all kolinsky sable I believe. Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs: The odd stray hair is common on a sable brush but in my experience, 5+ is a bit many and may be due to poor packaging. Sometimes I've bought brushes where the plastic tube bristle protector has been pushed on carelessly. One solution is to use brush soap. It's relatively cheap and will last a lifetime. Get the brush wet, pull it backwards through the soap while swishing it from side to side, then do the same in the palm of your hand. Repeat until everything is clear (i.e. no more paint/ dried pigment). Then, wet the brush again, get it coated heavily in brush soap, roll the brush to achieve a nice tip and leave it to dry with the soap still on. This should nicely reshape the brush. It's common for sable brushes to spread when dry, although splitting tends to happen because paint dried in the ferrule. As a rule of thumb, try to avoid getting paint on the bottom third of your bristles to prevent this. If you think paint has dried in the ferrule, you can solve this with a soak in some IPA for 10-60 minutes. You'll need to recondition the hairs afterwards, you can do this with literal hair conditioner or with brush soap. Some people argue that IPA is too harsh and can damage the brush, this has never happened in my experience, but keep in mind it may be a possibility. Try brush soap first.
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Dec 28, 2023 19:44
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EdsTeioh posted:Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25. I've had some pretty good results with Dirty Down rust, but there are 2 things that you have to do, and a few things that you probably should do, to get good results. Just for the benefit of everyone: Throw in some more mixing balls, and mix it a lot. There should be nothing stuck to the bottom of the pot at all, and then you should shake it some more. It need to be warm to work properly. Keep it in your pocket, armpit, or something for 20 minutes. You should use multiple layers, and apply different amounts to different places to get a variety of colors. You should hit it it with a brush with clean water to soften the edges, move it around, and overall make it look cool. Dirty Down has a guide for it here: https://dirtydown.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Rust-Effect-Paint.pdf I've found that you can't really cut any corners here, if you want a good result. There really should be a link to the guide on the bottle, in big bold letters.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:04
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Electric Hobo posted:I've had some pretty good results with Dirty Down rust, but there are 2 things that you have to do, and a few things that you probably should do, to get good results. Yeah, I did all that and still got the results I linked above. I'm gonna stick with my other methods but I'm really mad I wasted $30 on this poo poo.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:13
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EdsTeioh posted:Yeah, I did all that and still got the results I linked above. I'm gonna stick with my other methods but I'm really mad I wasted $30 on this poo poo. That's super weird. At least you know you've done everything, so you don't have to waste any more time on it.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:16
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EdsTeioh posted:Any of you guys used Dirty Down Rust? I build a lot of Necromunda terrain and am always looking for new weathering techniques and grabbed some of this stuff and I gotta say that it's probably the biggest waste of money I've encountered in 30 years of hobbying. Yeah, I shook the hell out of it and all that, but I may as well have just smeared iodine on stuff and saved $25. then you just got the solvent on what you're painting. it's not a traditional paint, and you generally an agitator, either beads or a stir stick. it's very finicky and requires a bunch of experimentation to get used to it.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:18
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Cease to Hope posted:then you just got the solvent on what you're painting. it's not a traditional paint, and you generally an agitator, either beads or a stir stick. I shook it until there wasn't anything clinging to the bottom and dipped my brush all the way down.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:26
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That Modern Masters Metal Effects stuff looks pretty great though. Appreciate showing off the different products.
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Dec 28, 2023 20:34
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