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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
How well do HUDs work before the defroster starts heating up?

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
This sounds like how you could describe lift throttle behavior in our 2019 6MT Alltrack in sport mode. Our other car is an S62 powered vehicle so the engine braking at lift in the Alltrack is serene in comparison, so I’ve never really thought about it.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

kid sinister posted:

How well do HUDs work before the defroster starts heating up?

A not my car I drive sometimes (Kia e-soul) has a HUD projected on a separate little pane of glass that pops up when activated. It doesnt seem to get frosty when stored inside the dash and since the car is electric you get cabin heat instantly. Pretty nice feature, I like it as is and use it but it could be better of course. It is limited to displaying just a few things and the adjustment for where it appears to display (which depends on how tall you are) is too small but it's neat to have speed and cruise control info seemingly floating in the air just in front of the hood of the car, no need to look down or change focal depth with my aging eyes.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
2013 Ford Focus 2.0 5MT. Zero power condition. Does not respond to key or key switch position. Known good battery. Cables appear fine, as do fuses. Hell timeline Internet unhelpful.

Figure I'd ask here before towing to a shop.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Wrar posted:

2013 Ford Focus 2.0 5MT. Zero power condition. Does not respond to key or key switch position. Known good battery. Cables appear fine, as do fuses. Hell timeline Internet unhelpful.

Figure I'd ask here before towing to a shop.

Battery good, cables appear good. What about the connection between batteries and cables?

Does anything come on? Radio? Wipers, power locks working?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Also worth checking fuses, but it’s unlikely. More probable that one of your battery lines looks good but is actually crap.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

Chunjee posted:

Is there anything I can plug into ODBII or custom wire that will audibly alert the driver to an overheating engine?

Something small and audible like this would be fantastic.


Where is the US version of https://engineguard.com.au/ or http://enginewatchdog.com/ ?

Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


Any reason to not use Android Auto?

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
I am trying to identify the correct fuses to tap into in order to run a hardwire kit for a dashcam on my 9th gen civic. There are three wires. One goes to Battery, one goes to ACC and one is ground.

When I use my multimeter to identify which fuses are getting power when the ignition is off, I am getting no readings at all. What gives? I am putting the ground probe to the door hinge, and using the red tip to check the exposed metal part in the fuse. I've been watching as many tutorial videos for 9th gen civic dashcam installs as I can find, and one person mentioned in his 9th gen civic, the BATT won't get power unless the door is closed, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Would getting a circuit tester make any difference at all? I feel like voltage is voltage and multimeter SHOULD be basically the same, but I don't know too much about car electronics so I wanted to ask here.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Trickortreat posted:

I am trying to identify the correct fuses to tap into in order to run a hardwire kit for a dashcam on my 9th gen civic. There are three wires. One goes to Battery, one goes to ACC and one is ground.

When I use my multimeter to identify which fuses are getting power when the ignition is off, I am getting no readings at all. What gives? I am putting the ground probe to the door hinge, and using the red tip to check the exposed metal part in the fuse. I've been watching as many tutorial videos for 9th gen civic dashcam installs as I can find, and one person mentioned in his 9th gen civic, the BATT won't get power unless the door is closed, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Would getting a circuit tester make any difference at all? I feel like voltage is voltage and multimeter SHOULD be basically the same, but I don't know too much about car electronics so I wanted to ask here.

There's a lot of variables here. I'm worried your multimeter isn't getting a good ground. Try the following:
- Verify your multimeter works by measuring voltage across the battery (if your multimeter gets very hot and stops working, you had it set wrong)
- Find an actual ground screw rather than using the door hinge. Any metal screw near the fuse box _should_ do.
- Turn the car on and identify the 20A fuse for Accessory Power Socket

- With the car on, with the ground on a metal screw, try to get 12v by probing the the exposed contacts on that fuse.

If you make it this far, you know your multimeter works and your fuse probing technique works.

At this point, I'd start looking at the two 7.5A fuses labelled "Small Lights" and "Illumination" per https://www.startmycar.com/us/honda/civic/info/fusebox/2015/trims-sedan

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
Thank you so much for the guide! I found an exposed bolt, and that seems to have fixed the issue. I found fuse #27, but it seems to be getting a 12V reading without the key in the ignition. Shouldn't the Accessory Power Socket only be getting power when the ignition is turned on?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

That's a good question, and it seems to be very manufacturer dependent. My porsche powers the accessory socket regardless of whether the car is off or on, but my Subaru does not.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah that is a textbook case of why to use the parking brake.

after living in SF for years i reflexively set the parking brake in any car i park, which has led to some real yakkety-sax style antics when it's a borrowed car and the owner doesn't know where the parking brake is, usually cars where it's a truck-style pedal on the top left of the driver's floor

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Cactus Ghost posted:

after living in SF for years i reflexively set the parking brake in any car i park, which has led to some real yakkety-sax style antics when it's a borrowed car and the owner doesn't know where the parking brake is, usually cars where it's a truck-style pedal on the top left of the driver's floor

Yeah same, I grew up and learned to drive in a city with a 23% grade road and we all I think got used to very firm e-brake applications. I've since had to go out in the morning to release the e-brake for various people I've dated when I applied it too aggressively.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Cactus Ghost posted:

a borrowed car

This is great until you’re the first person who’s applied it in 8 years and it seizes on

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

nah i live in lowland california, away from the coast. nothing rusts

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

kid sinister posted:

How well do HUDs work before the defroster starts heating up?

My BMW projects straight onto the windshield and I've never, ever had a problem reading what it displays. Day or night, rain or shine. It's bouncing off the inside of the glass, so nothing on the outside affects it.

I'm honestly going to miss it so much if my next car doesn't have one. It has a really neat system that shows what lane you should be in for turns when navigating via GPS. If I get a call, their name shows up and I can select to answer or ignore without looking away. And I really dig it showing the track listing when playing music through the on board system, but I'm like 99% streaming Bluetooth these days, so all I get is a skip forward or back option.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

mr.belowaverage posted:

This is great until you’re the first person who’s applied it in 8 years and it seizes on

This. After working in a garage long enough I'm hard wired to never set a parking brake in any car that isn't mine.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

honda whisperer posted:

This. After working in a garage long enough I'm hard wired to never set a parking brake in any car that isn't mine.

Isn't that more of a problem with the old style drum-in-disc e-brakes? You never see those anywhere anymore.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





VelociBacon posted:

Isn't that more of a problem with the old style drum-in-disc e-brakes? You never see those anywhere anymore.

They're still all kinds of places? My 2013 CR-V had them, my 2018 Canyon has them.

My understanding is that the main culprit is a rusted cable jamming in the engaged position, regardless of what type of parking brake it's engaging.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Tacomas are all rear drum in TYOOL 202X

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

IOwnCalculus posted:

My understanding is that the main culprit is a rusted cable jamming in the engaged position, regardless of what type of parking brake it's engaging.

This is the primary issue. You and the cable are strong enough to pull through the rust but the return springs can't pull it back.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Tacomas are all rear drum in TYOOL 202X

Yeah that pisses me off. Especially since the 4 runner is rear dick.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Rear drum is not drum-in-hat; drum-in-hat is a drum style parking brake inside of the rotor of a rear disc brake.

I actually prefer drum-in-hat in most cases. It means a pad-slap or pad+resurfaced rotor brake job on the rear doesn't require any parking brake fuckery at all, and pads with a new rotor usually means just adjusting the parking brake to accommodate. The only time it's worse is when you do have to work on it, it's all harder to access because it's mostly behind the hub face.

I do welcome our new electronic parking brake overlords, if only because it means "this car has never had the parking brake applied in the past 20 years" can't happen anymore.

Mr. Nice!
Oct 13, 2005

bone shaking.
soul baking.
I changed my first rear brakes with the parking brake integrated like that yesterday. Using the little tool to spin the cylinder down made it one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done. Pretty painless. Driver's side rear brakepads were wore a bit more than the passenger side. Gonna keep an eye on that.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Mr. Nice! posted:

I changed my first rear brakes with the parking brake integrated like that yesterday. Using the little tool to spin the cylinder down made it one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done. Pretty painless. Driver's side rear brakepads were wore a bit more than the passenger side. Gonna keep an eye on that.

If you greased the caliper slide pins that'll probably take care of it.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Heres a stupid question.

In automatic transmissions, for the longest time shifters had the gears placed in whatever order the manufacturer decided and then at some point it was standardized to PRND21/PRNDSL/PRND321 and so on. When did that happen and was it a manufacturer that did it first and the others followed suit or did some government institution (NHTSA?) come up with that and force it on the manufacturers?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

wesleywillis posted:

Heres a stupid question.

In automatic transmissions, for the longest time shifters had the gears placed in whatever order the manufacturer decided and then at some point it was standardized to PRND21/PRNDSL/PRND321 and so on. When did that happen and was it a manufacturer that did it first and the others followed suit or did some government institution (NHTSA?) come up with that and force it on the manufacturers?

It happened around 1960. There was a plethora of odd transmission controls (lots of push buttons), and that led to lots of accidents from mis-selecting gears and people not knowing how to operate other brands of cars.

Federal regulators (not sure just which department) issued a regulation that all cars purchased by the government would have to have the PRNDL selector - with Park and Drive separated by Neutral - as of the 1964 model year. Since government vehicles were a large market, auto makers dutifully complied in short order.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Anyone know what would be appropriate to glue new fog light lenses on for an E34? The original stuff feels exactly like RTV. This seems like it would work well?

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



You want Butyl rubber, either a peel and stick or a small tube of the stuff. Lots of guides online for removing and installing headlight lenses, same process for foglights, there's a big community into modifying headlights, adding LED accents, projector retrofits, etc.

wash bucket
Feb 21, 2006

Finally got a new car with Apple Car Play. But it's wired and once I plug the cable in my phone barely fits in the little storage tray under the dash.

Is there such a thing as a good wireless adapter for Apple Car Play? Everything on Amazon is the usually gaggle of no-name stuff.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



wash bucket posted:

Finally got a new car with Apple Car Play. But it's wired and once I plug the cable in my phone barely fits in the little storage tray under the dash.

Is there such a thing as a good wireless adapter for Apple Car Play? Everything on Amazon is the usually gaggle of no-name stuff.

Frankly I’ve just plugged in and not bothered with that stuff, I don’t know why the wireless transceivers or licensing for them is so crappy that the technology is clearly there and cheap, but most cars are stuck with the wired connector. I guess a weird few years until cars are solidly in the next gen of tech, like 5-10 years. Maybe we’ll look back on it like not having cruise control or ABS.

e: Though, using Tesla as an analogue for cars that try to have good 'infotainment', even they can't seamlessly build CarPlay, they've omitted it entirely. There is for sure a market for a seamless Apple Car, and a Tesla tie-in would have been kinda cool until Elon being Elon imploded any possibility of that idea.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Dec 31, 2023

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
I have a question related to fuse tap. I have placed the original fuse which is rated for 7.5 in the bottom slot. Is it ok to use a 10 amp fuse at the top of the fuse tap? Or do I need to use 7.5? My fuse tap kit came with a variety of fuses as opposed to just one color. I have the 7.5 one in slot 2, is it ok to use a 10amp one for slot 1?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Trickortreat posted:

I have a question related to fuse tap. I have placed the original fuse which is rated for 7.5 in the bottom slot. Is it ok to use a 10 amp fuse at the top of the fuse tap? Or do I need to use 7.5? My fuse tap kit came with a variety of fuses as opposed to just one color. I have the 7.5 one in slot 2, is it ok to use a 10amp one for slot 1?



Is that two ends of the same cable? It's hard to understand what is going on here - why would there be two fuses immediately back to back if they're in series?

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
Mash Buttons!

VelociBacon posted:

Is that two ends of the same cable? It's hard to understand what is going on here - why would there be two fuses immediately back to back if they're in series?
They aren't in series, they are for two different circuits. #2 is for the existing circuit, #1 is the for the added circuit.

Trickortreat posted:

Is it ok to use a 10 amp fuse at the top of the fuse tap? Or do I need to use 7.5?
As long as the fuse fits properly, and it's properly rated for whatever you're putting on that circuit, then it should be fine.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Trickortreat posted:

I have a question related to fuse tap. I have placed the original fuse which is rated for 7.5 in the bottom slot. Is it ok to use a 10 amp fuse at the top of the fuse tap? Or do I need to use 7.5? My fuse tap kit came with a variety of fuses as opposed to just one color. I have the 7.5 one in slot 2, is it ok to use a 10amp one for slot 1?



VelociBacon posted:

Is that two ends of the same cable? It's hard to understand what is going on here - why would there be two fuses immediately back to back if they're in series?

That's a tap: it draws power through that circuit to the red wire, which sends 12V to whatever being installed.

The fuse closest to the fuse plug end should be the fuse that was removed to plug that tap in. The fuse downstream of it should be rated no higher; it's there because the device being powered off of the tap may require a lower-rated fuse than the circuit it's tapped into.

So: the downstream device is protected up to 7.5A. That fuse will blow before the 10A does.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jan 1, 2024

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I would be leery of uprating a fuse position over its posted current capability.

The wire(trace, or via) supplying that specific fuse position may not be rated for 10A over its 7.5A rating. If you can determine this then you can determine safety margin.
These things are a great hack in a pinch for wiring in piddly things like a dash cam but I would not run say a 100W inverter on one.

Chimp_On_Stilts
Aug 31, 2004
Holy Hell.
This question has ballooned well beyond its original scope and is no longer a short, stupid question. I'm moving this to the tires thread.

Chimp_On_Stilts fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jan 1, 2024

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



cursedshitbox posted:

I would be leery of uprating a fuse position over its posted current capability.

The wire(trace, or via) supplying that specific fuse position may not be rated for 10A over its 7.5A rating. If you can determine this then you can determine safety margin.
These things are a great hack in a pinch for wiring in piddly things like a dash cam but I would not run say a 100W inverter on one.

Ja but no matter what, it'll blow at 7.5A. The only real risk is that what is being powered downstream will burn up at some amperage less than 7.5A.

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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Chimp_On_Stilts posted:

This question has ballooned well beyond its original scope and is no longer a short, stupid question. I'm moving this to the tires thread.

Well, if you happen to look back in here: as long as it’s not consistently above like 50 degrees Fahrenheit where you live you can just rock the winter tires all winter long regardless of snow and count on their added safety when you’re up in the mountains.

#4 is pricier upfront but it arguably saves your rims and tires from a bit of additional wear and makes swapping between summer and winter tires cheaper/easier/faster. You probably won’t want to diy it because I’m sure the EV9’s TPMS will have a fit and need pairing/etc.

Do you plan on also running stickier summer rubber in the summer along with the winter tires, or would you be running all-seasons? Are there stickier summer tires even available for EV9?

I imagine a three row EV is just gonna chew through soft winter tires in no time if you’re not careful.

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