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LightRailTycoon posted:Isn’t this what cor-ten is for? A gym built out of cor-ten would look pretty sweet outside. Might feel kind of gross after a few years.
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Dec 22, 2023 13:27
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| # ? May 26, 2024 20:48 |
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I'm working on helping my dad clear out his basement in advance of selling his house, and he has a small machine shop of pretty well maintained old machining equipment - a milling machine from the late 1800s, a lathe from the 1930s, and then some more modern stuff like a band saw and drill press from the 1990s. (These dates are all according to him and may be wrong) I don't know the first drat thing about any of this stuff but I'm trying to find places to ask about selling it, and figured I'd start here and hope for a direction to go in, if any of you have some advice. Fajita Queen fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 22, 2023 |
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Dec 22, 2023 17:27
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Oh it makes sense now why a rack out of stainless would be expensive and hard to work with. Look at the cybertruck. Lmao makes sense. Thanks all of you for your information and insight.
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Dec 22, 2023 17:38
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Fajita Queen posted:I'm working on helping my dad clear out his basement in advance of selling his house, and he has a small machine shop of pretty well maintained old machining equipment - a milling machine from the late 1800s, a lathe from the 1930s, and then some more modern stuff like a band saw and drill press from the 1990s. (These dates are all according to him and may be wrong) An 1800's era milling machine is really an antique. And unless it is something like a watchmakers machine is probably worth not much. A lathe, from the 30's, could be the same. It depends on the lathe type, tooling with it, size, etc. Band saws and drill press will have some value, depends on the size and brand. A solid Delta from the 90's with a nice fence could be worth $500, but a Central Machinery tool from the same era might fetch $50.
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Dec 22, 2023 19:07
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The value of those machines is highly dependent on the local marketplace because nobody will pay to ship them. If they're huge heavy beasts the value may be lower than the cost of a rigger to move them safely. Or not. Check out craigslist and facebook marketplace for listings of similar stuff in your area, basically.
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Dec 22, 2023 19:16
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Also make & condition. A machine in good condition, or from a sought after manufacturer, may tempt people to put up with all the hassle. Especially if it meets both, but if it's neither it's probably not worth more than scrap. In other words, a Monarch or Hardinge in decent condition is a whole different beast than a clapped out model made for school shop classes.
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Dec 22, 2023 19:33
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If you want it gone fast something like this might work. https://www.thompsonauctioneers.com/
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Dec 24, 2023 05:02
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Thanks for the advice everyone 
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Dec 24, 2023 21:29
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maybe it doesn't go without saying, so: please offer the machines to us here in this thread too, someone here might want one
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Dec 25, 2023 06:46
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Fajita Queen posted:I'm working on helping my dad clear out his basement in advance of selling his house, and he has a small machine shop of pretty well maintained old machining equipment - a milling machine from the late 1800s, a lathe from the 1930s, and then some more modern stuff like a band saw and drill press from the 1990s. (These dates are all according to him and may be wrong) Post some pictures. Pretty much everyone here loves looking at the equipment and can likely ID it. Leperflesh posted:maybe it doesn't go without saying, so: please offer the machines to us here in this thread too, someone here might want one Also this; a general location could have these going to someone who is machine-lacking in short order!
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Dec 25, 2023 18:31
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why in god's name does the thickness of a given gauge of sheet metal depend on what kind of metal it is 20ga mild steel: .034 20ga stainless: .038 20ga brass: .032 20ga galvanized: .040 20ga aluminum: .032 20ga copper: .035 aaagh
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Jan 2, 2024 01:10
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Because "gauge" is a weight per standardized volume and different metals have different densities. That is to say, historically, 1 "gauge" is the diameter of the ball that weighs one pound. 2 gauge means two balls weigh one pound, etc. This gave something looking like a geometric curve for things that use balls (shotguns, ball bearings, etc.) but wasn't all that great for wire. So for wire, each gauge bigger (thinner) was some constant multiplied by the thickness of the current gauge. So if 1 gauge is 1" and your constant is 10%, then 2 gauge is 1*.9=.9". 3 gauge is 1*.9*.9 = .81". 20 gauge would be 1 * .9^20 = .121" This gives an exponential curve for gauge which makes sense at the industrial scale. Square-cube law or something, I think. Then you get to sheet metal. The gauge is based on the density of the material, multiplied by some exponential, then rounded to the nearest decimal approximation of 1/128" (for small gauge) or 1/32" (for large guage). babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 01:32
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Sagebrush posted:why in god's name does the thickness of a given gauge of sheet metal depend on what kind of metal it is Because there is a just God who punishes Americans for using imperial.
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Jan 2, 2024 01:40
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NewFatMike posted:Because there is a just God who punishes Americans for using imperial. Americans just took British Gauge and made it fit fractional inches instead of specifying thicknesses to 4 decimal places of inches. That means you can take standard lead screws (with, say, 32 threads per inch) and churn out standard-thickness metal. Of course, the gauge of tubing wall didn't match because bending gauge sheet into a tube and welding the seam creates shrink. So the gauge thickness of pipe wall is all kinds of whack. All of this is to say that these numbers, while having the same nominal classification, do not share any similarities with each other. e.g., if you buy "trade size 3/4" conduit, none of its nominal dimensions are three quarters of an inch. Same with "trade size 3/4" pipe, unless it HAPPENS to be fully-threaded black iron schedule 40 pipe, which has a nominal internal diameter of .750"
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Jan 2, 2024 01:45
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Pipe sizes are so hosed that the ISO looked at it, threw their hands up and screamed "OK THEN" while slapping equally disjointed from reality nominal millimeter sizes on exactly the same table of dimensions
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Jan 2, 2024 02:26
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Once upon a time, a younger, greener me tried to figure out what size I needed to fit some shower stuff. In my naivete I'd assumed German shower fittings would have some thoroughly sensible whole numbered metric size and I was measuring wrong. Eventually I gazed upon the unholy texts of the metric ISO BSP chart and found out that a scooch under 21 mm OD is a 1/2" BSP. That's the day I lost my innocence and stopped being a child, and became something different, something that has seen things that can't be unseen, that change a person forever. Something of this world, but not entirely. Forever haunted by the madness contained in those charts.
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Jan 2, 2024 03:43
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That was my reaction when I saw letter sizes in imperial drill charts for the first time.
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Jan 2, 2024 03:47
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We will drag the corpse of history with us for all time.
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Jan 2, 2024 04:56
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Because "gauge" is a weight per standardized volume and different metals have different densities. can you explain then why 20-gauge sheet is precisely the same thickness for aluminum (2.7 g/cc) and brass (~8.7 g/cc) ?  on reflection i'd imagine that dimensioning things this way comes from a time before there were tools to accurately measure small distances. you're making musket balls in your shot tower and vernier calipers haven't been invented yet, so you can't just directly measure the diameter to the required precision, but you can adjust your process until 12 balls precisely balances out one pound. right? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 05:29
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NewFatMike posted:That was my reaction when I saw letter sizes in imperial drill charts for the first time. I need to drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw. What drill size is that? consults chart Oh cool, it's a #10. SO now I need to drill a clearance hole for a #6 screw. What drill size is that? grabs a #6 this seems wrong. consults chart #27. WHAT. OK FINE! SO what size is it for 1/4-20? .250", right? conults chart SIZE F. .257" Great. Working fine. Everything is fine now. I'm just fine. I'm gonna do some tap drill sizes for normal coarse threads. EZ. #10-24 gets drilled with a #25. 1/4"-20 is drilled with a #7. 5/16"-18 is drilled with an F. 3/8"-16 is drilled with a 5/16".  Sagebrush posted:can you explain then why 20-gauge sheet is precisely the same thickness for aluminum (2.7 g/cc) and brass (~8.7 g/cc) ? Because the "gauge weight" for the material is defined around some specific volume based on that material. It's like half a cubic foot for steel, a cubic foot for aluminum, and probably 7/9 of a hogshead for brass.
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Jan 2, 2024 05:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Because the "gauge weight" for the material is defined around some specific volume based on that material. see that's just needlessly fuckin dumb
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Jan 2, 2024 05:41
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It would make perfect sense to you and be the most natural thing in the world if you had any business at all having to work with it (two centuries ago) --Tradesman logic
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Jan 2, 2024 06:09
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Where do I get a copy of this chart
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Jan 2, 2024 07:15
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here are the tap/drill/hole charts i use: https://littlemachineshop.com/images/Gallery/PDF/TapDrillSizes.pdf also i made this chart myself and put a huge one on the wall in each of our shops.  idk where to host a pdf anonymously for free so pm me if you want it.
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Jan 2, 2024 07:35
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Sagebrush posted:here are the tap/drill/hole charts i use: doing the lord's work
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Jan 2, 2024 07:56
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I need to drill a clearance hole for a #10 screw. What drill size is that? consults chart Oh cool, it's a #10. meanwhile an M3 tap is a 2.5mm drill, an M4 tap is 3.3mm, an M5 is 4.2mm, and an M6 is 5mm.
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Jan 2, 2024 08:00
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The important thing to remember about metric thread is that the drill size is nominal diameter - thread pitch. You still have to look at a chart but it's pretty simple to figure out your drill size from there.
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Jan 2, 2024 12:16
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That formula works for US threads too, of course, since they're also a 60 degree triangular profile. The math is just stupider because of all the different standards. For a 1/4-20, for instance, you subtract 1/20" from 1/4" (5/20") and get 4/20" or 1/5" or .200, and indeed the recommended tap drill size is #7, or .201.
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Jan 2, 2024 14:51
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And then you get into forming taps and you’re 100% looking it up from a chart.
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Jan 2, 2024 19:18
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Thread percentages get ridiculous with form taps. Look at Guhring's chart which gives you tap drill sizes in increments of 2.5% thread. I'm sure they wish I bought drill bits in 10 µm increments, just in case someone asks for a 57.5% thread. https://www.guhring.com/Support/Technical/Tapping-Drill-Size-For-Thread-Forming
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Jan 2, 2024 20:00
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Karia posted:Thread percentages get ridiculous with form taps. Look at Guhring's chart which gives you tap drill sizes in increments of 2.5% thread. I'm sure they wish I bought drill bits in 10 µm increments, just in case someone asks for a 57.5% thread. I've seen it happen in automotive production. When you get into the combination of a weird MnCr alloy, not quite having enough live tool stations to come back and bore the hole after drilling, the threads getting heat treated at the next step, and needing to throughput 200 pc/hr 24/7 some real weird decisions start to look good
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Jan 2, 2024 20:19
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High volume production and real high end energy/aerospace stuff gets into funny situations where it can be cheaper to design tooling for the parts and get custom ground end mills, weird insert mills, and port and seat cutters where all the normal tooling goes out the window.
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Jan 2, 2024 20:30
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I have a pair of metal pipes that are approx 6ft long, about an inch in diameter with pretty thin walls. I'd like to join them to get a single longer pipe. I don't need it to be waterproof, because I'm building a thing to hang clothes from. Basically just need it to not bend to much once there's some weight on it. I think I could have an outer sleeve to join the sections, and there could be some soldering involved to be reasonably sure that it doesn't slip around too much. Can I do that using basic plumbing equipment ? I have a little propane blowtorch, some form of lead or solder, copper fittings etc. The pipes are some kind of steel, not copper. I have 0 experience doing any of this. rowkey bilbao fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 20:24
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You can use a sleeve, but: 12 feet of 1" pipe supported only on the ends is going to bend a lot no matter how you join it. You need a center support or this plan isn't going to work. That said. What is the pipe actually? Copper? Schedule 40 iron? Does it have threads? There's couplings for each scenario, and you don't have to solder, you can use couplings that screw on, or have a set screw, or just put a couple of hose clamps on either side of the coupling to hold it in place or similar. e. Per your edit: copper pipe and steel pipe have different nominal outer diameters so there's a good chance your copper sleeve won't quite fit your steel pipe. You could still solder it but I think since it's not going to hold a fluid, you could use a set screw or hose clamps or even a couple of zip ties, almost anything to get a little grip to keep your sleeve coupling from sliding. Or if you want it permanent, try an epoxy like jbweld.
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Jan 4, 2024 20:33
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For thin wall metal I would be concerned about bending under load. Turn down a piece of oak to fit inside as a slug maybe.
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Jan 4, 2024 20:38
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first thing first is like wrap a little duck tape around the join, suspend it from the ends, and hang a few hangars on it and watch them all slide to the middle, and then figure out your center support and maybe just use the center support to stick the two ends of the six foot pipes into. Because you're going to need it.
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Jan 4, 2024 20:39
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I'd rather not use a central support because I'll be putting bed sheets to dry here. I do like the idea of using an inner wood bit for rigidity. Not sure yet what I'll do for the sleeve but epoxy looks like a fine suggestion.
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Jan 5, 2024 00:48
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If you're in California you should know that HOA rules about clotheslines are unenforceable, if that's the problem you're trying to solve. And also clotheslines are a lot easier to fabricate.
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Jan 5, 2024 01:06
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can we see a picture looking down the bare end of the pipe to calibrate our expectations of "thin"
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Jan 5, 2024 01:09
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PSA: Some dude in GBS is incredibly not-mad about waterjet machine beds right now and it would be the funniest poo poo that's happened on the forums in months if Caro hadn't become a multimillionaire yesterday. Discussion starts here: Karate Bastard posted:Hey osha thread, does a water jet also cut the grate that the parts rest on? How often do they need replacement? I imagine you want the grate flat, and it won't stay flat with a bunch of cuts in it?
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Jan 5, 2024 05:04
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