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LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Alright goons, troubleshooting help please:

1970 BMW 2002.

Idles fine, runs up to about 3k then acts like it's not getting any fuel (after a few seconds). The harder I work the engine the faster it hits that point. I knew the fuel pump was leaking so I replaced that.

Timing could be an issue because I replaced the distributor with a 123 Ignition that has a preset curve.

Could it be carb related?

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Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

what kind of timing advance does the ignition have? that kinda sounds like centrifugal advance being messed up somehow

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Ja that's how I found out that the vacuum diaphragm on my 65 Econoline's distributor had split (due to age); it was great up until about 2000-RPM, then started bogging down weirdly. And the idle was rough because it now had a vacuum leak.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Advance Starts: 700
Max Advance: 2700
vac adv starts 125mmHg
vac adv ends 200mmHg

That's the setting I have it on, and from my service manual it matches what I could find. Problem is, none of the distributors listed in the manual match what was in the car so I couldn't do a 1:1 comparison of the curve list to match.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



This sounds like it could be choke related. Like your choke spring is failing and the thermo-regulated metal that controls your choke is closing too soon. I don’t know much about BMW carbs, but having someone go through startup and observing the choke plate would be recommended.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

LegoMan posted:

Alright goons, troubleshooting help please:

1970 BMW 2002.

Idles fine, runs up to about 3k then acts like it's not getting any fuel (after a few seconds). The harder I work the engine the faster it hits that point. I knew the fuel pump was leaking so I replaced that.

Timing could be an issue because I replaced the distributor with a 123 Ignition that has a preset curve.

Could it be carb related?

If its acting like its not getting any fuel, then maybe its not getting any fuel.
The harder you work the engine (the higher you rev it I guess) the faster it seems to happen.
So maybe an obstruction in the fuel line. It can keep up at lower revs but runs out at higher revs.
If the fuel pump was failing, prehaps a piece of something broke off the pump and got jammed somewhere in the line.

Or maybe a failing fuel pressure regulator if equipped. Have you checked the fuel pressure while revving it?

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Jan 2, 2024

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
No question, but I took my '08 Civic to a mechanic (for something unrelated) and they stated I have a power steering leak. Which I thought was odd b/c I had no leaks or symptoms of one at the time. Then of course a week later I hear the whine and fluid starts dripping. They wanted quiteee a lot to fix it (would only use an OEM pump naturally and labor was a lot... so around $1000 total I think). After some googling I just decided to swap out the O rings on the lines.

An absolute *pain in the rear end* to do without a proper lift. It is not in a very accessible spot even jacked up and going through the wheel well. My hands are shredded but I did it and the leak seems to be stopped! The return O ring seemed to be completely missing so I'm guessing that was it, ha.

Unfortunately, I don't think I flushed the lines well enough as there seems to be some air in there but still a great feeling overall.

A.) I have to get back in the same area to replace my AC compressor clutch before the summer so I'll reflush the lines then maybe.

B.) Replacing the AC compressor clutch is going to be a dream compared to this. I had been fearing it but it's right there in your face compared to the goddamned power steering pump jesus.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

BonoMan posted:

No question, but I took my '08 Civic to a mechanic (for something unrelated) and they stated I have a power steering leak. Which I thought was odd b/c I had no leaks or symptoms of one at the time. Then of course a week later I hear the whine and fluid starts dripping. They wanted quiteee a lot to fix it (would only use an OEM pump naturally and labor was a lot... so around $1000 total I think). After some googling I just decided to swap out the O rings on the lines.

An absolute *pain in the rear end* to do without a proper lift. It is not in a very accessible spot even jacked up and going through the wheel well. My hands are shredded but I did it and the leak seems to be stopped! The return O ring seemed to be completely missing so I'm guessing that was it, ha.

Unfortunately, I don't think I flushed the lines well enough as there seems to be some air in there but still a great feeling overall.

A.) I have to get back in the same area to replace my AC compressor clutch before the summer so I'll reflush the lines then maybe.

B.) Replacing the AC compressor clutch is going to be a dream compared to this. I had been fearing it but it's right there in your face compared to the goddamned power steering pump jesus.

You may not need to reflush anything. If there's air in the line, try turning the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to work it out, that's been the procedure on several cars I've owned.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

two_beer_bishes posted:

You may not need to reflush anything. If there's air in the line, try turning the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to work it out, that's been the procedure on several cars I've owned.

Yeah that's what googling taught me but it didn't seem to work...however I might also be misdiagnosing. Sometimes when I turn I can "feel" a sputtering for a second or two in the system (that just sort of feels like air sputtering out of a hose) and then it goes away.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

wesleywillis posted:

If its acting like its not getting any fuel, then maybe its not getting any fuel.
The harder you work the engine (the higher you rev it I guess) the faster it seems to happen.
So maybe an obstruction in the fuel line. It can keep up at lower revs but runs out at higher revs.
If the fuel pump was failing, prehaps a piece of something broke off the pump and got jammed somewhere in the line.

Or maybe a failing fuel pressure regulator if equipped. Have you checked the fuel pressure while revving it?

would looking at the plugs give some clue?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

BonoMan posted:

No question, but I took my '08 Civic to a mechanic (for something unrelated) and they stated I have a power steering leak. Which I thought was odd b/c I had no leaks or symptoms of one at the time. Then of course a week later I hear the whine and fluid starts dripping. They wanted quiteee a lot to fix it (would only use an OEM pump naturally and labor was a lot... so around $1000 total I think). After some googling I just decided to swap out the O rings on the lines.

An absolute *pain in the rear end* to do without a proper lift. It is not in a very accessible spot even jacked up and going through the wheel well. My hands are shredded but I did it and the leak seems to be stopped! The return O ring seemed to be completely missing so I'm guessing that was it, ha.

Unfortunately, I don't think I flushed the lines well enough as there seems to be some air in there but still a great feeling overall.

A.) I have to get back in the same area to replace my AC compressor clutch before the summer so I'll reflush the lines then maybe.

B.) Replacing the AC compressor clutch is going to be a dream compared to this. I had been fearing it but it's right there in your face compared to the goddamned power steering pump jesus.
Congratulations on your successful repair and saving 1000 bucks.
You won't really hurt anything to just drive it for a few weeks and periodically checking the fluid level. Sometimes it'll take a little while to burp out the last few bubbles.

Iirc, it's power steering that they say you should have the front of the car jacked up a bit to bleed. Although that might just be to help prevent flat spotting the tires while turning the wheels back and forth.


Cactus Ghost posted:

would looking at the plugs give some clue?

Probably wouldn't hurt. If it's an ignition problem they might show signs of carbon build up if a bunch of fuel is taking a while to get burned.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

wesleywillis posted:

Congratulations on your successful repair and saving 1000 bucks.
You won't really hurt anything to just drive it for a few weeks and periodically checking the fluid level. Sometimes it'll take a little while to burp out the last few bubbles.

Iirc, it's power steering that they say you should have the front of the car jacked up a bit to bleed. Although that might just be to help prevent flat spotting the tires while turning the wheels back and forth.


ah yeah I didn't do the turning until I had it back down. I did have it up while I fixed it of course and it helped drain the hoses for sure, but I didn't do lock to lock until it was down. Noted for next time!

BigSexy
Apr 21, 2020
I’m thinking about buying a 3rd car for no particular reason. Staying within $20k, and I’ve always liked the boxy body style of the 95-99 era tahoes, broncos, etc. I’ve found a few tahoes with less than 100k miles on them in that range. Am I just going to be buying a money pit or should these vehicles be pretty reliable for the next 50k miles or so? I’d put less than 3k miles per year on it, it’s just to gently caress around with on the weekend or whatever

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Transmissions (no matter the vehicle) are going to be the make it/break it for most vehicles. Pulling out of my butt...but I'm thinking those GMs have the 4l60e which will grenade eventually.

Now that's not to say you can pump a couple grand and have it replaced and be on your merry way. But that is pretty much what to expect and given your mileage usage eh, no biggie if you don't get a clapped out one.

I'd be more focused on rust with panels/underbody/brake fuel lines and make sure the electrics work.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

BigSexy posted:

I’m thinking about buying a 3rd car for no particular reason. Staying within $20k, and I’ve always liked the boxy body style of the 95-99 era tahoes, broncos, etc. I’ve found a few tahoes with less than 100k miles on them in that range. Am I just going to be buying a money pit or should these vehicles be pretty reliable for the next 50k miles or so? I’d put less than 3k miles per year on it, it’s just to gently caress around with on the weekend or whatever

I don't think any 25 year old vehicle is gonna be all that reliable over the next 16 odd years.

BigSexy
Apr 21, 2020
Ah yeah that’s pretty much what I figured. I don’t want to get it and then spend $3k 9 months later for a major repair

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

That constantly happens to many of us in this here forum.

Couple ways to look at it...

1) Be a pragmatist and avoid your automotive desires and be the richest person in the cemetery.

2) Contribute your thoughts of a foolish expenditure as you lie to yourself on what joy it brought you so others can learn.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



A car merged into our car while my partner was driving this morning. Their front passenger wheel into our rear driver's side door. No idea how that's even possible, but there's some damage to the rear door, trim, and wheel trip, and a little damage on the rim. Opened an insurance claim but how do I go about finding a body shop? We've, luckily, not had to deal with something like this before. Insurance is waiving deductible since it wasn't my partner's fault.

The car is a VW id4. There are a few VW dealers around with body shops - should we call them? It doesn't seem like insurance cares where we go. FWIW we're in Boston if anyone has specific recommendations.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Look for body shops with good reviews on google or whatever the gently caress search engine people are using these days.
Maybe talk to some friends or co workers to see if they have gone anywhere.

Read the reviews, both good and bad, read a lot of them. Keep in mind some people will give a lovely review for trivial things like "I tried to call this place once and they didn't answer the phone, what kind of business is this?" and so on.

E: also keep in mind that the best body shop in the city could be booked for weeks or months. The damage sounds pretty minor, so if the car is driveable maybe its not a big deal, but if the car wasn't driveable waiting months just to get it in the shop might be more hassle than its worth WRT rentals and such.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jan 3, 2024

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
My brother’s 07 ML 350 is spending the winter down here in the balmy south. He recently had the power steering pump replaced due to an excessive whine. I went to move it yesterday and found an enormous puddle of steering pump fluid under it and no power steering.

My mechanic claims he can work on it for him, would it be safe to dump a fresh bottle of fluid in it and drive it across town? Trying to avoid a tow, and looking into it I am completely unprepared, tool wise, to work on a Mercedes.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



The Slack Lagoon posted:

A car merged into our car while my partner was driving this morning. Their front passenger wheel into our rear driver's side door. No idea how that's even possible, but there's some damage to the rear door, trim, and wheel trip, and a little damage on the rim. Opened an insurance claim but how do I go about finding a body shop? We've, luckily, not had to deal with something like this before. Insurance is waiving deductible since it wasn't my partner's fault.

The car is a VW id4. There are a few VW dealers around with body shops - should we call them? It doesn't seem like insurance cares where we go. FWIW we're in Boston if anyone has specific recommendations.

Can you call your insurance co or agent to speak with a human? If you live in the sticks or are unable to find a reputable shop on google, they should be able to help find one they have some sort of relationship with I'd imagine. It's probably smoother for a job of this type to be done by a bodyshop that regularly does insurance related work. I'd be curious what they ask you for since I haven't had a collision like that covered before, no one's smashed into me yet.

A big city like Boston will have a lot of shops, it should be pretty smooth searching Google Maps for body shop or checking with VW for another quote. If they all operate their own bodyshop seems all the better. Some dealers farm them out and I've found who that is to cut out the middleman, but if it's an insurance claim to another party rather than your own wallet it doesn't seem to matter

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 4, 2024

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

tactlessbastard posted:

My brother’s 07 ML 350 is spending the winter down here in the balmy south. He recently had the power steering pump replaced due to an excessive whine. I went to move it yesterday and found an enormous puddle of steering pump fluid under it and no power steering.

My mechanic claims he can work on it for him, would it be safe to dump a fresh bottle of fluid in it and drive it across town? Trying to avoid a tow, and looking into it I am completely unprepared, tool wise, to work on a Mercedes.

I wouldn't do that, if it's leaking with the car off its a big leak and will empty quickly with the pump running.

I don't know that car very well, does it have a seperate belt for the power steering? If it doesn't use a common belt for the alternator and power steering etc I would just remove the power steering belt and drive it hardstyle to the shop.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
If the pump got replaced recently I would check to see if hoses have worked loose due to not being properly connected. Might be simple and low-tool. If it's not that, I'd tow it but I'm conservative about that kind of stuff.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
I hit a curb and my bumper came partially off. Some of the loops that go in the retaining clips on one side are broken. Do you think I could epoxy them back together?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



NotNut posted:

I hit a curb and my bumper came partially off. Some of the loops that go in the retaining clips on one side are broken. Do you think I could epoxy them back together?

Yeah, hell, why not? I doubt they’d stay together very long, but it’s worth a shot. There’s a ton of YouTube videos out there on repairing em, with unknown levels of long-term success. Plastic welding is probably the most correct way to do it though.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

NotNut posted:

I hit a curb and my bumper came partially off. Some of the loops that go in the retaining clips on one side are broken. Do you think I could epoxy them back together?

Epoxy the loops back together? I don't think they would hold. You don't want a bumper coming off on the highway.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I think it’s just the side where they snap into the quarter panel, nothing structural. The long flat ones shaped roughly like a paper clip

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb
Still enjoying my Spark, thanks to everyone’s help. :derptiel:

I’ve got a question about GPS navigation -

I used to have a traveling job, which took me through 40 plus states in rental cars. Back then, my Garmin GPS was indispensable. I still use one, and even reflexively use it as my speedometer.

That said, I get some poo poo for not using my phone for navigation.

My Spark has a tiny amount of dashboard space, and keeping my GPS mounted for maps and my phone for music is a bit much.

Do I need to get with the times and use an app on my phone for GPS navigation? My Garmin has live traffic, wireless updates, and all the other poo poo. I just feel like using my phone, which is constantly getting pinged with poo poo, would be slightly unsafe compared to my dedicated GPS. But it would be nice to have one screen vs. two.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Captain Log posted:

Still enjoying my Spark, thanks to everyone’s help. :derptiel:

I’ve got a question about GPS navigation -

I used to have a traveling job, which took me through 40 plus states in rental cars. Back then, my Garmin GPS was indispensable. I still use one, and even reflexively use it as my speedometer.

That said, I get some poo poo for not using my phone for navigation.

My Spark has a tiny amount of dashboard space, and keeping my GPS mounted for maps and my phone for music is a bit much.

Do I need to get with the times and use an app on my phone for GPS navigation? My Garmin has live traffic, wireless updates, and all the other poo poo. I just feel like using my phone, which is constantly getting pinged with poo poo, would be slightly unsafe compared to my dedicated GPS. But it would be nice to have one screen vs. two.

Do what makes you happy and don't listen to the haters?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Captain Log posted:

Still enjoying my Spark, thanks to everyone’s help. :derptiel:

I’ve got a question about GPS navigation -

I used to have a traveling job, which took me through 40 plus states in rental cars. Back then, my Garmin GPS was indispensable. I still use one, and even reflexively use it as my speedometer.

That said, I get some poo poo for not using my phone for navigation.

My Spark has a tiny amount of dashboard space, and keeping my GPS mounted for maps and my phone for music is a bit much.

Do I need to get with the times and use an app on my phone for GPS navigation? My Garmin has live traffic, wireless updates, and all the other poo poo. I just feel like using my phone, which is constantly getting pinged with poo poo, would be slightly unsafe compared to my dedicated GPS. But it would be nice to have one screen vs. two.

Well you have full control over what type of notifications are popping up on your phone. Turn them off and run Google Maps?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Or keep using the gps? Who is giving you "poo poo" and why do we care what they think? If a gps is comfortable and safe for you then don't switch.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb
I should have left the part about getting poo poo out of it. I’ve got poo poo for my GPS for a decade, and don’t really care.

Better phrased question - I drive with an always on Garmin GPS, music streaming from my phone, and only take calls if it’s extremely urgent. I use steering wheel controls on the music, and don’t touch the GPS while I’m moving.

Dash space is limited as hell, it being a Spark.

Is a dedicated GPS, with live traffic and wireless updates, an inferior solution I should grow past using?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Personally I haven't used a dedicated GPS since I bought my girlfriend a TomTom in the late 2000s. I can't speak for how good or bad a modern Garmin is. If it gets you where you're going and you're happy with that solution, it's probably within a few percent of the most optimal solution, and it works when you don't have cell coverage.

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

VelociBacon posted:

I wouldn't do that, if it's leaking with the car off its a big leak and will empty quickly with the pump running.

I don't know that car very well, does it have a seperate belt for the power steering? If it doesn't use a common belt for the alternator and power steering etc I would just remove the power steering belt and drive it hardstyle to the shop.

Looks like it's one belt for all the accessories, I'm going to have to get into it over the weekend and start looking for obvious unclamped hoses and whatnot.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Captain Log posted:

I should have left the part about getting poo poo out of it. I’ve got poo poo for my GPS for a decade, and don’t really care.

Better phrased question - I drive with an always on Garmin GPS, music streaming from my phone, and only take calls if it’s extremely urgent. I use steering wheel controls on the music, and don’t touch the GPS while I’m moving.

Dash space is limited as hell, it being a Spark.

Is a dedicated GPS, with live traffic and wireless updates, an inferior solution I should grow past using?

A modern iPhone will give you all of that in a maps app, and your music, and the ability to put it (or have it automatically go in to) driving mode where notifications are silenced.

Do what you want but I don’t think there’s much advantage to the standalone GPS. Maybe if you really hate having turn by turn directions interrupt your music?

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Safety Dance posted:

Personally I haven't used a dedicated GPS since I bought my girlfriend a TomTom in the late 2000s. I can't speak for how good or bad a modern Garmin is. If it gets you where you're going and you're happy with that solution, it's probably within a few percent of the most optimal solution, and it works when you don't have cell coverage.

Yeah this. If you're using it and it works then just leave it alone. Your life isn't going to dramatically improve if you change up what your doing.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Switch to google maps if you want constant instructions not to turn or not to take the next exit.

BigSexy posted:

I’m thinking about buying a 3rd car for no particular reason. Staying within $20k, and I’ve always liked the boxy body style of the 95-99 era tahoes, broncos, etc. I’ve found a few tahoes with less than 100k miles on them in that range. Am I just going to be buying a money pit or should these vehicles be pretty reliable for the next 50k miles or so? I’d put less than 3k miles per year on it, it’s just to gently caress around with on the weekend or whatever
The Hoe/Yukon/Suburban can get 300k out of the engine if its taken care of at least a little, fuel pumps and alternators are good for about 100k miles. The 4l60e tends to go in the high 100s to 200k miles though I have one at 250k currently in an 03. They're easy to work on with a good impact but rust will be your biggest enemy.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

A modern iPhone will give you all of that in a maps app, and your music, and the ability to put it (or have it automatically go in to) driving mode where notifications are silenced.

Do what you want but I don’t think there’s much advantage to the standalone GPS. Maybe if you really hate having turn by turn directions interrupt your music?

I'm just imagining someone flipping into a rage as crossfade kicks into their 10 hour trance mix to tell them to turn left.

Yeah, I've just used a phone for many years, and the phone is also superior to any car infotainment. Currently I have an older car without CarPlay so I use a vent mount. Works fine.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb
I think I’ll give it a try around town and see what I like better. One less screen and one less cable is appealing to me. But I’m going to pick what works best.

Thanks for the input as always, Car Friends.

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Inner Light posted:

I'm just imagining someone flipping into a rage as crossfade kicks into their 10 hour trance mix to tell them to turn left.

Someone on these here forums posted that they won’t have turn by turn audio because it interrupts they tunes.

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