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Spanish Manlove posted:I'm a weirdo and I like to paint the nooks and crannies of stuff because I will notice, and the only one who really cares about my poo poo is me so I try to at least do a good job. Some corners get cut in those spots but at least there's some small attention there Yeah basically this. I've been poking away at some of the really awkward nooks and crannies on the redemptor dread, just because I know that I'll know. The Two Thing Coats gun metal is really good, though, and it covers nicely, so its coming right along.
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Jan 4, 2024 04:21
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Geisladisk posted:
Hell yeah Now the hard part of finding at least 3 more 40mm models that you can use to not duplicate Accursed Torment sculpts (25mm ones are easy you can grab any weirdo from 40k or Sigmar)
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Jan 4, 2024 04:28
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Eej posted:Now the hard part of finding at least 3 more 40mm models that you can use to not duplicate Accursed Torment sculpts (25mm ones are easy you can grab any weirdo from 40k or Sigmar) gellerpox have four 40mm weirdos and many, many 25mm weirdos alternately, you can see what you have kicking around your bits box, and just saw off pieces and replace them with something else. these guys are made from demon prince leftovers, then using torment leftovers to make different torments.  i wouldn't say it's an unqualified success. while they do have some different looks, they do still kinda have the same pose as the original, except maybe the center fist guy. but go ahead and dig into these models and stretch your legs, you could mix all kinds of crap in here.
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Jan 4, 2024 07:02
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Spanish Manlove posted:I'm a weirdo and I like to paint the nooks and crannies of stuff because I will notice, and the only one who really cares about my poo poo is me so I try to at least do a good job. Some corners get cut in those spots but at least there's some small attention there It’s not a problem until you start painting vehicle interiors that you intend to glue shut
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Jan 4, 2024 11:21
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Eej posted:Don't worry, you can skip painting the undersides of anything and various nooks and crannies and your poo poo will still look great from every possible viewing position that matters. The only person who is gonna pick up your dudes and look at them from the bottom or inspect the far side of tubes is you and only you. I'm curious - do (serious) Painting Competition judges do this? I know they scrutinise the minis very closely but I always wondered if they would look at the hidden bits as well.
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Jan 4, 2024 20:51
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if it comes down to it yes. but if you are painting for an award yeah dont ignore stuff, for table sure who cares.
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Jan 4, 2024 21:09
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I started assembling the stuff in steps because it makes it easier and faster some times i think. Dont need to worry about getting the tiny brush in there to paint the nooks and crannies without accidentally hitting anything if I just dont put on the arms, now I can slather the big brush across the whole torso
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Jan 4, 2024 21:27
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Z the IVth posted:I'm curious - do (serious) Painting Competition judges do this? I don't remember the exact competition, but I do remember seeing the grading rubric for a serious contest, and it included things like whether the person had painted out of the way areas. I suppose it depends on what you mean by 'hidden', no one is going to manipulate your miniature to check whether you painted the interior of a rhino, but it does include things like 'back of the shield' and 'underneath of of the horse'. If you are dealing with two (or more) exemplary painters who have both put hours into a figure, at some point you're just trying to find an objective way to tally up half a point to someone to make the difference.
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Jan 4, 2024 21:48
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If you're painting stuff like Angron or Magnus you would be better off painting their skin before slapping on their armour and painting that. In that case it's because most of the skin is hidden but there will be visible hard to reach spots that would be impossible to paint the details of with a brush. But yeah you'd want to paint everything you can see and maybe more to ensure a continuous blend/highlight of spots that are partially obscured.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:06
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Silly question, if you paint in sub assembly with something like that example of skin and then putting the armor over it, will plastic glue still bond the pieces through the paint or do you need to use super glue at that point?
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Jan 4, 2024 22:11
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youd want it bare plastic to plastic. and superglue eh you dont need. plastic weld is the legit way to go this is my opinion obviously, im sure other people who are current know better but just my 2c metal or resin superglue, but wiggled plasticweld will do a way better bond that wont just pop off when dropped (usually)
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Jan 4, 2024 22:13
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You need plastic on plastic for plastic cement to hold. Helpfully, plastic cement is an excellent solvent for acrylic paint. Plaint the whole thing, put a little glue (with a brush applicator) on at the contact points. Dab that off with a Q-tip or paper towel. Reapply plastic cement and then make the connection.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:17
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 this poo poo https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Plastic-Weld-applicator-Bottle/dp/B00FDFWJD8 seriously. squish it a bit, wiggle it around and its essentially one piece if its plastic to plastic.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:20
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That's just Tamiya extra thin without a fun applicator
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Jan 4, 2024 22:21
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i just liked it because i could apply at the seams and it would wick into the joint. if there is something cheaper im all about it.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:24
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TehRedWheelbarrow posted:i just liked it because i could apply at the seams and it would wick into the joint. if there is something cheaper im all about it. Tamiya and, AFAIK, all plastic cement has wicking action. I bought some airbrush cleaner that is the same chemical in bigger bottle for cheaper.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:54
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I usually scratch up the paint a bit on both pieces with my hobby knife and brush away the debris then glue
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Jan 4, 2024 22:59
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Usually I try to mask contact points with sticky tack, but when I forget, it's justProfessor Shark posted:scratch up the paint a bit on both pieces with my hobby knife and brush away the debris then glue
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Jan 4, 2024 23:01
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Word, sounds good thank you
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Jan 4, 2024 23:06
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I’ve also used blue sticky tack before for priming
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Jan 4, 2024 23:09
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I like super glue for those jobs, and use plastic glue to weld seams together
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Jan 4, 2024 23:11
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It's preferable if you either leave contact points bare or clean them before you glue; you can apply glue over the paint and it will work ok, but you're much more likely to get bad adhesion and have stuff pop apart later. You're much better off just doing two seconds of work with a hobby knight to ensure contact areas are clean. Ask me about having to re-attach dozens of Saurus shields because I decided that was the time to spare myself some work after painting all the arms and shields separately!
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Jan 4, 2024 23:11
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Professor Shark posted:I’ve also used blue sticky tack before for priming It's very good for stuff like irregularly shaped surfaces. Also a good way to mask areas for stuff like camo patterns that don't have to be sharp lines
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Jan 4, 2024 23:14
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How does proxying work exactly? I know that most normal people won't care and that GW stores and tournies say official models only. My field ordinance batteries are the official guns but have 3d printed proxy crewmen, does that make it illegal?
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Jan 4, 2024 23:17
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Wrr posted:How does proxying work exactly? I know that most normal people won't care and that GW stores and tournies say official models only. My field ordinance batteries are the official guns but have 3d printed proxy crewmen, does that make it illegal? I couldn't imagine that disqualifying it, but who knows. If I recall GW once upon a time insisted that 51% of the model be GW, but I have no idea how you judge that. I do a ton of conversions and usually try to stay above 50%, even on major reworks. I tend to make my own conversion parts though, so that might be why I never caught any issues. If a GW told me I couldn't use one of their kits I bought because I put some other stuff on there I'd probably have some stern words for them. Almost everything I have besides infantry has some percentage of either kitbashing or my own sculpting in it. The way I've always seen it is that I paid GW for the kit, and I'm using the kit, so they got their money. I don't see why they should care if I added some putty, plasticard, or bitz. Who knows these days, GW really seems to have swept conversions under the rug. I haven't kept up, but I used to buy issues of White Dwarf if they featured conversions or conversion guides, I just don't see issues with even a smattering of conversions. Again, I've really not kept up with that so maybe they started encouraging it more? edit: I doubt something with prints could get into warhammer world or whatever that huge event is called. I know they are beyond strict for that.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:42
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Super glue was always my go to for the longest time, even with plastic kits. That is until the day I dropped a couple of minis on the floor and literally every little single thing that had been superglued on snapped off and flew into the empyrean.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:43
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Yeah I used super glue for most things in the past. These days I still use it, but only for arms and heads that I paint separately, bodies are assembled with plastic glue.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:50
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I use Tamiya extra thin for a lot of assembly, especially putting torsos together and the like, but limbs and heads I use super glue for because if they fall, I want them to break there because I can reattach that rather than risking an actual break in the model. Same applies for gluing models to bases.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:57
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At some point I stopped pinning models to bases out of laziness and just superglued them directly onto the texture paste I use for basing and I dread the day that I pay for my indolence when a bunch of dudes fly off their bases when dropped
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Jan 5, 2024 02:11
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Improbable Lobster posted:Tamiya and, AFAIK, all plastic cement has wicking action. I bought some airbrush cleaner that is the same chemical in bigger bottle for cheaper. Plastic cement can come in different viscosities so it doesn't always have wicking action. Tamiya's Plastic Cement (Orange Bottle and top) is thick and sticky, Tamiya Extra Thin (Green Top) is what will wick into joints. Regardless of the brand the main ingredient is methylene chloride so they can be used interchangeably, I can usually get Plastruct Plastic Weld cheaper that Tamiya, but it has a crappy applicator so I just poor it inot my empty Tamiya bottles. If you were working on huge models or wanted to stock up, you can also buy Weld-On by the pint, same ingredient but in a much bigger container.
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Jan 5, 2024 05:27
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rantmo posted:I use Tamiya extra thin for a lot of assembly, especially putting torsos together and the like, but limbs and heads I use super glue for because if they fall, I want them to break there because I can reattach that rather than risking an actual break in the model. Same applies for gluing models to bases. Yup, same here. Plus if I ever want to make any bases fancier, it’s just a trip in the freezer to snap them off and do an upgrade instead of cutting them at the heel or whatever.
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Jan 5, 2024 05:44
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I've realized my impasse in the hobby is space related. I have no place to put completed works which leads to groups of models meticulously organized into semi-completed piles of shame & an evershrinking work space. I've thought about display cases & ways of displaying/storing miniatures for a long time (years now), but I find myself a bit lost in the weeds now that I actually have to get off my rear end and address the issue. I know the now discontinued Ikea Detolf display shelf was one of the top recommendations everywhere online, specifically when paired with extra shelves and shelf holders. My problem is I don't want to buy a discontinued product and the third party parts it needs. Does the Blåliden (Depth: 12 5/8 ", Height: 59 1/2 ", Width: 13 3/4 ", Max load/shelf: 7 lb) have the same options for extra shelves/shelf brackets? I noticed it's not very tall, and I read the door is flush so it may need a riser as well if placed on carpet so the door doesn't drag when opening/closing. Are there any other alternatives the thread can recommend? This whole thing got me thinking about what the optimal XYZ dimensions for a warhammer display case would be for most. How much space is needed for a kill team, or a 1k/2k pt army? Is a square footprint the most economical? Or would a rectangular footprint be preferable? I don't know why but I was thinking of a 14"x8""x6" footprint for one of my smaller teams for a shelf or something. IncredibleIgloo posted:Depending on how much you need you could do the 2mm plasticard here and double up. That could work perfectly, especially if I could figure out how to carve the 63ish° angle the official GW bases have. At least I think that's the angle.
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Jan 5, 2024 05:57
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I think 63 degrees might be a difficult angle to find. When I was younger I did a lot of small scale WW2 stuff and epic stuff. I wanted to base my epic stuff but wasn't very good at the really small scale terrain. So what I ended up doing is basing them on frame matte material. My father was an artist and we had a bunch of extra matting material and a cutter in our shop so I cut up a bunch of little forest green bases out of the matt that had a nice beige/off white color on the inside. It worked really well. So maybe a matte cutter might work for the plasticard. Failing that maybe you could could find a piece of wood, perhaps like basic floor molding trim and use that as wedge to brace the saw against and be really slow and deliberate with the movements. As for storage, Andy from Andy's hobby headquarters has a bunch of great display cases, but they are aimed at larger scale models. But if you had a 3d printer or built out of plasticard some stadium seating style stands for you minis you could store a bunch in them. If you have a 3d printer and you are not determined to have every model on display, or perhaps want to store away the ones that are not painted yet this looks like a good product. I will print some off soon as see for myself. https://www.myminifactory.com/campaigns/omni-2-modular-storage-case-2242 It is called the Omni 2. The Omni 1 is wall mounted displays you can 3d print for your minis. That being said, they are not the most space efficient they are more of a show off sort of thing, so the Omni 1 may not exactly meet your needs.
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Jan 5, 2024 06:11
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Not an answer for display exactly, but I really, really like sterilite stack and carry cases for stuff that is still in progress and army storage generally. They make good economical use of space and each shelf is tall enough to be able to fit a redemptor (on its side, but still). I also like that if I add on to an army, I just buy another pack and then have more shelves that I can immediately attach to what I have already. Basically anything that isn’t fully painted, I have in these stack and carry cases (unless it’s really tall and can’t fit, like some AOS monsters). It really helps to make a space feel clean because I can easily drop stuff into a tidy box and then stack it easily in a closet or whatever until I’m ready to deal with it, and once I am, it’s all organized and good to go. I haven’t done it yet but I am pretty sure they’ll be good for magnetizing once I do a little crafting.
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Jan 5, 2024 06:26
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The Demilich posted:Does the Blåliden (Depth: 12 5/8 ", Height: 59 1/2 ", Width: 13 3/4 ", Max load/shelf: 7 lb) have the same options for extra shelves/shelf brackets? I noticed it's not very tall, and I read the door is flush so it may need a riser as well if placed on carpet so the door doesn't drag when opening/closing. Ikea doesn't supply additional shelves/brackets which is a massive pain in the rear end. Also you're right about the riser.
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Jan 5, 2024 08:54
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I could probably finish painting something before converting another- Oops I fell!
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Jan 5, 2024 10:20
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Ashcans posted:I don't remember the exact competition, but I do remember seeing the grading rubric for a serious contest, and it included things like whether the person had painted out of the way areas. I suppose it depends on what you mean by 'hidden', no one is going to manipulate your miniature to check whether you painted the interior of a rhino, but it does include things like 'back of the shield' and 'underneath of of the horse'. If you are dealing with two (or more) exemplary painters who have both put hours into a figure, at some point you're just trying to find an objective way to tally up half a point to someone to make the difference. That's fair and I think that comprises things like painting the chest behind the gun properly rather than gluing the gun in place and fudging it like most people would do. I do wonder if they would check if you have lovingly given your High Elves underpants under their moulded skirts though.
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Jan 5, 2024 11:07
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They should.
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Jan 5, 2024 11:12
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Need to check for correct shadows and light reflection too.
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Jan 5, 2024 13:58
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Crossposting:quote:In the spirit of keeping some momentum going, here's WIP of the Redemptor I've been working on the last couple nights while I watch stuff with my girlfriend.
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Jan 5, 2024 14:13
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