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devicenull posted:Ah, here in NJ PSEG uses these: https://www.landisgyr.com/product/focus-axe-axre-rxre-platform/ I bet any meter base manufactured since smart meters became the de-facto norm supports it. I don't see anything about "a supported meter base" - I think that's just a Form 2S meter base? I can't find anything on my meter base about supporting/not supporting that sort of thing, but it definitely is done on the regular. It wouldn't surprise me if all meter bases support it. The disconnect is integral to the meter itself.
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Jan 5, 2024 03:59
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devicenull posted:Ah, here in NJ PSEG uses these: https://www.landisgyr.com/product/focus-axe-axre-rxre-platform/ Dominion in VA uses these for 200A service: https://sensus.com/products/aclara-i-210c/ Which have full remote connect/disconnect capability.
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Jan 5, 2024 05:36
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H110Hawk posted:
what if i told you "the big nasty" update i mentioned earlier happened before a tropical storm and several sites failed to go off-grid... i'm not really familiar with the customer-facing settings but i know it will still try to download updates over cellular, even at the scale of days and that a system not connected to the internet will flag errors to you, your installer (in the likely case they are the ones monitoring it) and enphase. i've probably been paid for a month solid of travel to plug in ethernet cables and update wifi credentials.
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Jan 5, 2024 06:27
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I've decided to position the power supply for my under cabinet lights on top of a cabinet instead of in the attic, to ensure that it doesn't get cooked or go unnoticed if it fails in a smokey way. This is where I'm sticking it, the power supply and low voltage wire is from testing while fishing the wire to the lights:  There's a nice open area immediately to the side of the cabinet top:  Approximately 9" x 21" of usable space at the top of the cabinet. It is obviously a prime spot for some future person to try to stick a knick knack (there are actually a couple of them at the bottom of the opening) so I want to make drat sure I am going about protecting the cable in the right way. In the attic I have existing 12/2 romex coming into a plastic junction box near another wall in the room, from which have new 12/2 romex to a metal junction box immediately above the cabinets. From the metal box I'd have 3/4" fmc running downwards into that open area then curved up and over to a metal power supply enclosure on the top of the cabinet. Hot and neutral would go into the power supply, ground would be terminated onto the metal enclosure. I'm a touch unclear as to whether I need to use THHN in the fmc or if I can keep on trucking with the 12/2 nm I already have (stopping in the junction box to ground the box, or course). I know nm is a bitch and a half to pull through conduit but we're talking 4-5' at most, and I can feed it through before dropping the fmc down into that open area. The lights look drat good so far though:  
Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 02:35
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Shifty Pony posted:
The plan is when I do my kitchen remodel to get an electric wall oven and have it mounted undercounter next to the range so I'll get double ovens (80% of the reason for the remodel) and basically 'dual fuel' capability but still also have a gas broiler (which I use as my toaster).
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Jan 8, 2024 03:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Unrelated to any of your lighting stuff-but I'm curious about the double oven range. Do you like it? Which oven do you use the most? Does the top oven burn stuff? I looked hard at them before I bought my new range and they seemed very practical and appealing, but I was scared by how small the upper oven looked. Like surely anything in there would burn from being so close to the elements? But probably they solved that problem? The same range (the Profile version of your Cafe range) with a single oven was on big time sale at Lowes and the double oven was not on sale so that kinda made the decision for me and I got a single oven gas range. I will never buy a single oven range again. If you cook a decent amount it owns so loving hard, you have no idea what you are missing. It is very liberating not to have to worry about the main dish requiring 350°F with a broil finish while a side of roasted vegetables calls for a steady 425°F. I haven't noticed any uniformity or temperature control issues except when I cook pizza in the bottom oven and I don't give my pizza stones enough time to come to equilibrium. That causes the lower rack to cook slower than the top, but that's an issue with pizza stones in general and there are still no odd burning issues. The ovens only use the upper and (hidden) lower elements simultaneously when preheating (which they do extremely quickly, I think I timed the upper one at 5 minutes to hit 375°F and stabilize for baking) so as long as you don't put food in during preheat you are fine. I tend to prefer the lower oven because I like to make use of the convection features, my wife tends to use the upper more. But either way having a second over that you can set to "warm" or proof is clutch, as is being able to cook at two different temperatures simultaneously. The only quirks with the thing are to keep your face clear when opening the lower oven to avoid a blast of steam and that you have to watch "high" broil like a hawk hopped up on stimulants. Both ovens are incredibly good at crisping stuff up but seriously reduce the time recipes give to 1/3rd or so (or use "low" broil). Oh and I have burned my hand on the broiling coil of the upper oven since there is less clearance when loading the oven. Be vigilant about using a heat resistant glove or mitt.
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Jan 8, 2024 03:40
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Nice, we're about to buy a double oven GE Cafe electric range and while I'm not the cook in the family I have to admit it looks pretty sweet. We were also consider a double bin dishwasher but my gut says to go with the tried and true Bosch 800 which we can get in panel-ready.
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Jan 8, 2024 13:10
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We have a gas double oven, and I like it pretty well. I do feel like stuff is slightly more liable to burn or get a little toasty in the top oven, but it also heats up super fast which is great. We use the both less often than I expected, we're with our families on big holidays so we don't do many truly complicated cooking operations at home.
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Jan 8, 2024 16:15
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The Dave posted:Nice, we're about to buy a double oven GE Cafe electric range and while I'm not the cook in the family I have to admit it looks pretty sweet. We were also consider a double bin dishwasher but my gut says to go with the tried and true Bosch 800 which we can get in panel-ready. I feel like the double drawer dishwasher is great for 2 people. You can load and run each drawer as you make stuff dirty and unload as you consume.
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Jan 8, 2024 16:34
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Shifty Pony posted:
You can use nm in conduit (with a couple caveats that won't apply to what you're doing).
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Jan 8, 2024 19:22
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I'm curious what kind of torque screwdrivers professional electricians would carry around. The EVSE I'm getting says that the wires should be torqued to 1.2 Newton-Meters, which comes out to about 10 inch-pounds. I also for the heck of it looked what the torque rating is on a QO breaker, and that was 50 inch-pounds. I found a torque screwdriver at Home Depot that does 8-40 inch-pounds, and another at Menards that does 10-80 inch-pounds. First of all, 1.2 Newton-Meters seems like an absurdly low torque value. But I'm wondering what kind of torque range a pro would keep in their toolbox. I'm guessing that the torque needed on the service cables is higher than either of those tools can provide, so there probably isn't a "one size fits all" tool that they can use in all cases.
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Jan 8, 2024 20:34
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I ended up picking up a pre-made fmc assembly and using that. I just wasn't worth my time to save the extra money. I also found out that I need to swap the breaker on the circuit to 15 A because when I opened up the junction box to replace a light switch with a dimmer there was 14 gauge wire in there. I can't say I'm surprised. The undercabinet lights look and work fantastic, it is amazing how much of a difference they make and how much better COB LED strip lights are than the old incandescent/halogen puckpuck undercabinet lights lights. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 20:45
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm curious what kind of torque screwdrivers professional electricians would carry around. https://www.grainger.com/product/WERA-Torque-Screwdriver-1-4-in-6AAW8 as well as a standard 1/2" torque ratchet for service entrances is what I see around here. Substitute the Wera with a Wiha or whatever depending on who/tool color preference.
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Jan 8, 2024 21:04
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Gud-n-tite brand is also very popular.
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Jan 8, 2024 21:19
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Note: I did not specify if they were used, just carried. I can't recall any of the commercial electricians around using a torque driver on anything smaller than 750 MCM and only the ones who aren't dealing with it all day long.
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Jan 8, 2024 21:23
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm curious what kind of torque screwdrivers professional electricians would carry around. The EVSE I'm getting says that the wires should be torqued to 1.2 Newton-Meters, which comes out to about 10 inch-pounds. I also for the heck of it looked what the torque rating is on a QO breaker, and that was 50 inch-pounds. I found a torque screwdriver at Home Depot that does 8-40 inch-pounds, and another at Menards that does 10-80 inch-pounds. First of all, 1.2 Newton-Meters seems like an absurdly low torque value. But I'm wondering what kind of torque range a pro would keep in their toolbox. I'm guessing that the torque needed on the service cables is higher than either of those tools can provide, so there probably isn't a "one size fits all" tool that they can use in all cases. i use a capri for my 7 to 50in-lbs and a klein torque wrench up to 250in-lbs. anything larger and i'm asking the shop to get out the automotive sized wrenches. service equipment in residential is generally 250 to the rare 60 (dual or >200A meters might go to 300 and higher), breakers 50-20 and devices well under 20. not gonna pretend this is common practice...the reactions to breaking the tool out would range from 'yeah, i should do that too (but won't)' to 'i've never torqued anything, just tug test it'. the clicks are satisfying and torquing very regularly will get you the same sense for torque that you can get for weight with portioning food with a scale. ie, 'that felt like 20in-lbs' or 'that's a 6oz chicken breast right there'. Extant Artiodactyl fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 21:56
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I have an insulated Wiha set with a torque screwdriver. In reality nothing below 4/0 gets torqued unless it's something special or high voltage (4160+).
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Jan 8, 2024 22:23
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I bought a 1/4 in. torque wrench specifically because I was replacing my main panel. I mostly only used it on the main feeds and larger breakers for things like sub-panels and the range circuit. I don't recall ever seeing an electrician pull one out at my house or for work so I'm not surprised to hear no one generally bothers but the guy who installed my original panel probably should've since 1 of the main feeds was way loose and singed when I moved in. (40 years of heat cycling probably didn't help)
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Jan 8, 2024 23:46
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Hello friends, I'm back again with a couple sort-of wiring question. I'm setting up my retro game shelving and ran into a small snag. I was going to use a two post open frame server rack in the middle top shelf to install 2-3 switched power strips:   However the power cord on the strips is just slightly too short. I've already got everything placed where I want it and it's not really feasible to move the shelving close enough to the outlet. I figured my two options are: 1. Buy 12"~ indoor power extensions that are rated for 15 amps (something like this) which my previous questions in the thread seemed to indicate is fine. 2. Ziptie the strips to the side of the shelving vertically like so:   They're pretty light (description says 4 lbs) so two decent sized zipties should hold it up just fine. It won't look as cool but if it's safer than using those extensions, I'm fine with it. I also would need to daisy chain them once I get more than one. I know you're not supposed to daisy chain power strips because of overloading but since these outlets are all individually powered and I wouldn't be running more amps than even one could handle, would it be OK?
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Jan 9, 2024 00:26
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm curious what kind of torque screwdrivers professional electricians would carry around. The EVSE I'm getting says that the wires should be torqued to 1.2 Newton-Meters, which comes out to about 10 inch-pounds. I also for the heck of it looked what the torque rating is on a QO breaker, and that was 50 inch-pounds. I found a torque screwdriver at Home Depot that does 8-40 inch-pounds, and another at Menards that does 10-80 inch-pounds. First of all, 1.2 Newton-Meters seems like an absurdly low torque value. But I'm wondering what kind of torque range a pro would keep in their toolbox. I'm guessing that the torque needed on the service cables is higher than either of those tools can provide, so there probably isn't a "one size fits all" tool that they can use in all cases. Wiha TorqueBlade shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 00:29
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Admiral Joeslop posted:1. Buy 12"~ indoor power extensions that are rated for 15 amps (something like this) which my previous questions in the thread seemed to indicate is fine. I wouldn't get ripped off like that though. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=38789 I have a bazillion 6" ones I use on every single wall wart in my house to not have to deal with outlet spacing on stuff. These are just for devices. I wouldn't daisy chain power strips. Home run them to the wall. Or buy a bigger one.
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Jan 9, 2024 00:32
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm curious what kind of torque screwdrivers professional electricians would carry around. The EVSE I'm getting says that the wires should be torqued to 1.2 Newton-Meters, which comes out to about 10 inch-pounds. I also for the heck of it looked what the torque rating is on a QO breaker, and that was 50 inch-pounds. I found a torque screwdriver at Home Depot that does 8-40 inch-pounds, and another at Menards that does 10-80 inch-pounds. First of all, 1.2 Newton-Meters seems like an absurdly low torque value. But I'm wondering what kind of torque range a pro would keep in their toolbox. I'm guessing that the torque needed on the service cables is higher than either of those tools can provide, so there probably isn't a "one size fits all" tool that they can use in all cases. Professional electricians don't carry torque screwdrivers. They have digital 1/4"-drive torque adapters. But mostly, they get the "this is 50in-lbs" single-setting torque screwdrivers from the supply house and throw them away when they're busted. Same with the 1.2N*m. Just get a single-value from the supply house and throw it away when it's junk. The point of these torque values is to say "DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN" with some specific numbers on. If you say "10 in-lb" then a good electrician knows that's just past finger tight. 50 in-lb is snug. 20ft-lb is really tight. Anything that actually requires real "you're gonna need a torque wrench" torque will have big warnings on it or a tech bulletin or something. I can't find any of the screwdrivers now. They're really cheap (like $3 each) and have a flimsy plastic shank that deflects when you hit torque. Everyone had one so when the inspector showed up, you could say "yeah, I used this" even if it were obvious it had never seen a screw.
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Jan 9, 2024 00:50
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I've only ever seen torque screwdrivers consistently used when I was working in a semiconductor fabrication plant. When a pieces of equipment can be a couple hundred million bucks, processes several billion dollars worth of material in a month, and can have a failure modes with a "radius of complete destruction"... you get meticulous.
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Jan 9, 2024 01:00
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Shifty Pony posted:I've only ever seen torque screwdrivers consistently used when I was working in a semiconductor fabrication plant. I used a torque screwdriver on every fastener for helicopter rotor tip caps. You're spinning a titanium screw into an aluminum block to fasten a piece of stainless steel. Get ANY of the forces wrong and you gall threads, create corrosion, and the tip cap comes flying off (in flight). I also used a torque wrench for every fastener on the gearbox-mounted generator, since a new gearbox flange cost more than every car and house I'd ever lived in, and I was terrified of breaking off a stud or bolt or nut. So by the time I got to do electrical work for residential and commercial, I had a pretty solid lock on what N inch-pounds was, where N was between 10 and 150. Then I got to work in a place with a ton of antennas that were SMA and there was a big thing that said "DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN" on the front panel. I was there to replace the unit because someone had used a wrench on the connectors and broken them all. Included in the box was a 3.5in-lb torque wrench. 3.5 in-lb is light enough that you could absolutely damage a connector hand-tightening it with your fingers if you had a strong grip.
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Jan 9, 2024 01:09
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Are there LED motion lights that are not utter crap? The <2yr old one we have seems to be dying... it's turning on/off every couple seconds. This all started when it lost power briefly earlier today.
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Jan 10, 2024 03:41
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Outdoor usage or indoor? If for outdoor usage then I've had bad experiences with the integrated led and detector lights, 2yr is better than what I usually got. That's why I built my own from a separate motion / dusk detector and an outdoor lamp that takes edison socketed bulbs, the bulb is the most likely failure point so it can just be replaced without tossing the whole thing next time it acts up.
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Jan 10, 2024 07:28
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His Divine Shadow posted:Outdoor usage or indoor? If for outdoor usage then I've had bad experiences with the integrated led and detector lights, 2yr is better than what I usually got. Outdoor - I got out there today and the motion sensor was full of water.
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Jan 10, 2024 15:28
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devicenull posted:Outdoor - I got out there today and the motion sensor was full of water. Outdoor motion sensors are a thing that has been solved since the 80s, but looking around based on your question led me to see that in the retail space this has been taken over with cheap garbage and iot gadgets. If you want a motion like that just works it starts with something like this motion detector from your local electrical supply house: https://www.denneyelectricsupply.co...lighting.sms500 If you've got a picture of the area you want to mount it and some requirement I can suggest some possibilities of fixtures where you can mount the motion detector and the socket. Probably things you can order form supplyhouse.com if you don't have a local place.
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Jan 10, 2024 15:47
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Hello friends, I'm back again with a couple sort-of wiring question. Officially you're not supposed to, OSHA says devices must be used in accordance with how theyre tested and approved - and the manufacturer does not test them for daisy chaining or for use with extension cords. However you should be fine with an extension cord and Daisy chaining - assuming everything is rated for 15 amps. I actually do it all the time. It's very common and if it caused problems, they wouldn't be able to be sold. The chances of you using all that stuff at once is low, anyway. Why would you have more than one console on at a time?
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Jan 10, 2024 16:42
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Motronic posted:Outdoor motion sensors are a thing that has been solved since the 80s, but looking around based on your question led me to see that in the retail space this has been taken over with cheap garbage and iot gadgets. I forgot that motion sensors are sold separately. This is what I have right now, so it looks like it would be pretty easy to just replace the sensor and keep the working lights.
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Jan 10, 2024 16:47
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I hate all Google Nest products except the hardwired floodlights. They are actually nice and don’t suck.
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Jan 10, 2024 16:55
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devicenull posted:I forgot that motion sensors are sold separately. This is what I have right now, so it looks like it would be pretty easy to just replace the sensor and keep the working lights. Oh yeah, that's exactly the kind of fixture I was going to suggest. Just get a decent motion sensor, not the $0.50 one that came with that setup and you should be back in business.
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Jan 10, 2024 17:05
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devicenull posted:I forgot that motion sensors are sold separately. This is what I have right now, so it looks like it would be pretty easy to just replace the sensor and keep the working lights. What in the world - I had no idea they were sold separately like that in a way that would integrate into a off the shelf light. Makes sense but who googles that? Otherwise how would you trigger 50 100W flood lights and make it DAYTIME on your mansion any time a raccoon wanders by in the middle of the night?
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Jan 10, 2024 17:47
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H110Hawk posted:What in the world - I had no idea they were sold separately like that in a way that would integrate into a off the shelf light. Makes sense but who googles that? Otherwise how would you trigger 50 100W flood lights and make it DAYTIME on your mansion any time a raccoon wanders by in the middle of the night? Lots of the nicer ones even have power fail sequences where you can tap out "stay on all the time" vs. "motion only at night" with your light switch feeding it. How do you know? Like with all the trade stuff the hardest part of a project where you know what you want to do but it's not in your experience/trade is knowing what is available and common and how the pieces fit together/what the hell their trade sizes are.
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Jan 10, 2024 17:55
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Cosmik Debris posted:Officially you're not supposed to, OSHA says devices must be used in accordance with how theyre tested and approved - and the manufacturer does not test them for daisy chaining or for use with extension cords. That's kinda what I figured but I went through my list and figured out that I can just barely fit everything on my list in two of those strips, and can remove the other power strip I was using which frees up another wall socket. Do I really need a Sega 32x? Probably not but I have the space for it now lol
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Jan 11, 2024 00:55
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Motronic posted:Lots of the nicer ones even have power fail sequences where you can tap out "stay on all the time" vs. "motion only at night" with your light switch feeding it. Even the cheap ones are starting to have that feature. I ended up going with this, which is 75% of what I paid for the light in the first place... but if I never have to get up on the ladder to replace it again it'll be worth it.
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Jan 11, 2024 01:23
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wired the 50 amp inlet (in the dark lol) for my generator so that my wife doesn’t have to run extension cords this weekend while it’s 2° and the power inevitably goes out lol ran my 3ton AC just fine while the water heater was going and then the furnace (ng) after shut the AC down gently caress generac, all my homies hate generac 
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Jan 11, 2024 03:18
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devicenull posted:I ended up going with this, which is 75% of what I paid for the light in the first place... but if I never have to get up on the ladder to replace it again it'll be worth it. There's a reason RAB is the kind at the supply house and why it cost almost as much as entire fixtures from the big box store, but it sounds like you already know that.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:36
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All wired: And buttoned up for the future:  Next time I am in a hardware store I will pick up a clamp to hold down the conduit as it goes over the left-hand side of the cabinet top, but otherwise that's that. General question If I were to replace my no-name DMM with something better what would be a decent one to get for use around the house and for minor hobby/automotive stuff? Fluke 117?
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Jan 11, 2024 18:38
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Shifty Pony posted:General question If I were to replace my no-name DMM with something better what would be a decent one to get for use around the house and for minor hobby/automotive stuff? Fluke 117?
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Jan 12, 2024 01:44
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