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Kvlt! posted:Hope this is the right thread for this but was hoping someone could help me out. This cuts both ways but in this situation I would suggest getting a motor that is somewhat popular enough that you can find a bit of resources on it online. The very last thing you want is to try to put something together where you'll hit a roadblock and be completely unable to find resources to proceed (or easily find replacement parts). Of course this means that it'd have to be a motor that's popular so therefore more expensive etc. I'm not suggesting an LS1 or a 2JZ or even an SR20DET but yeah. There can be a lot of complexity in terms of just the variations on a motor - my MY98 STI had three different iterations of valve covers gaskets and only one of them was correct to my motor and there was almost no way of checking without buying them from overseas etc. I think you should look at this the other way around - identify a car that you want to put the engine into and then find what swaps people have been doing. I don't know where you live but if you're accessing USDM stuff, people like swapping 6cyl camry engines into early MR2s. An early MR2 shell wouldn't be too expensive and a camry motor should be well within your budget. Sorry I don't have more for you to go on but that should get you enough to start googling. The motor AFAIK was normally aspirated, twin overhead cam. They use versions of these in Lotuses if I'm not mistaken. I think if you don't do something like this you'll just have a motor sitting in your garage that you can turn over with a breaker bar at the end of the job and you'll be like... great. I don't think it would be easy to get excited about it I guess. As far as sourcing a motor I would buy one from a wrecker that is guaranteed to run - at least that way you know you're not buying something that's going to need an entirely new valvetrain or have a hole in the block etc. An engine with a blown head gasket would also be a good thing to find as that problem is more or less resolved during a rebuild anyways and they can be had for cheap (be careful about warped decks). I did the head gasket on my old '89 240sx with my dad and it was a great experience. Buying a random engine from a junkyard with no guarantee that it runs, even if you're not planning on running it, I feel is probably just going to be a mistake.
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Jan 7, 2024 16:40
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This might be crazy advice, and not sure on your location or whatever...but if you want to start really small, I'd look for some community college vocational type small engine classes. Probably one or two sessions a week, you can drag some clapped up Briggs to rip apart and put back together with a set of rings if you want to freshen it up. They'll have the tools required and you can begin to learn what makes engines tick. Spend some time with the old man and not much on the line as you develop ideas for future goals. Hell, take a welding class as well. The principles learned will be invaluable and you get to use someone else's tools/supplies.
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Jan 7, 2024 16:53
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C-Bangin' it 
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Just my 2 cents, buy a Camaro/Firebird or Mustang from the late 80s or early 90s. poo poo loads of aftermarket support, pretty much every mystery problem they might have had has been solved, tons of forums where you can learn stuff. Also pretty easy to work on WRT the systems are well understood and you don't need too many specialized electronic tools to diagnose things. Concentrate on looking for one with a good body and floor pans etc but maybe the engine is either blown or really high mileage and tired. Keep in mind that the Mustangs at least are getting to be somewhat expensive these days. Not sure about the GM twins but probably them too.
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Jan 7, 2024 17:13
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Anyone know the quality of SKF branded cambelt + water pump kits for the 1.6 PSA Diesel engine (Volvo D2, Citroen etc 1.6 HDI)? I seem to recall SKF being a quality brand, but you never know anymore. Might be able to score a brand new kit for 1/3 of the price.
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Jan 8, 2024 16:31
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Does anyone have a recommended tire pressure gauge? I've got a cheap one from a gas station that reads about 6-7 PSI off from my Kobalt tire inflator, but I know portable inflators have a bad reputation for maintaining accuracy and I've had this one about a year and a half. I'd really like something reliable that I can keep in my glove box.
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Jan 8, 2024 22:03
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Just wanted to say thank you to everyone re: project for my old man and I. I'm doing some research into all the different ideas and things suggested, but helped immensely in kinda giving us a place to start regarding what we want to do and what we are capable of. I appreciate it!
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Jan 9, 2024 00:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have a recommended tire pressure gauge? I've got a cheap one from a gas station that reads about 6-7 PSI off from my Kobalt tire inflator, but I know portable inflators have a bad reputation for maintaining accuracy and I've had this one about a year and a half. I'd really like something reliable that I can keep in my glove box. I can't say that it's the best one but I've had this one for a few years and it's been solid. PSI measurement is about equal to the dewalt inflator I use, and I have some leaky tires so I use it a couple of times a week: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-20049-Large-Face-Gauge/dp/B0013JVZ7O/
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Jan 9, 2024 00:30
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Kvlt! posted:Just wanted to say thank you to everyone re: project for my old man and I. I'm doing some research into all the different ideas and things suggested, but helped immensely in kinda giving us a place to start regarding what we want to do and what we are capable of. I appreciate it! There's a magical combination of cheap, easy, reliable, powerful, and plentiful, with lots of aftermarket support, that can be found in two engines that I'm acquainted with: the GM 3800 Series II or III with an Eaton M90 supercharger, or a GM 5.3L V8. Walk into any parts yard and you're liable to find a dozen of each in some configuration or another. Maybe fewer 3800s with the supercharger, but a lot of N/A 3800s that could be supercharged after the fact. If you build a 3800 S/C you could drop it into a Fiero, or a 5.3L into literally any truck you want. Edit: This assumes you're in North America. If you're in Europe then the aforementioned likely doesn't apply. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have a recommended tire pressure gauge? I've got a cheap one from a gas station that reads about 6-7 PSI off from my Kobalt tire inflator, but I know portable inflators have a bad reputation for maintaining accuracy and I've had this one about a year and a half. I'd really like something reliable that I can keep in my glove box. Milton Industries S921 or S925 Pencil Tire Gauge, whichever gauge is within the pressure range for your specific use case. They're solid as hell. Edit 2: I just gave myself a great idea. Gregg Distributors usually has quality poo poo so I'm snooping their online catalogue for DMM's and found this Lisle CAT III DMM. Gregg's doesn't list prices because they're goofy like that, but other websites list this unit at about $100CAD, and it looks like it should suffice for everything I need. So,   Edit 3: Snagged one on ebay for $50. 
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 01:21
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XYZAB posted:
Sorry I know you crossed this out but you're not using it in DC Voltage to measure current right? You have to pop your hood and driver side door (if that's where you access your fuses), manually close the latches with a screwdriver or similar, lock the car, let it sit for 45 min or so to let all the different modules turn off, then bridge the negative battery terminal to the negative battery lead with your multimeter probes, with the MM in DC current mode (usually you have to plug the leads into different holes on the MM). This means that all the juice going to your car is going through the MM so you'll be seeing a quantifiable measure of the current draw. Word of warning, most MM have just a 10A fuse on this circuit so be careful not to pull the fuse for the alarm because it'll go off and pop that fuse when you put it back in. If you're measuring voltage across the fuses individually then disregard all this but I don't think that usually is the easiest way.
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Jan 9, 2024 03:11
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry I know you crossed this out but you're not using it in DC Voltage to measure current right? You have to pop your hood and driver side door (if that's where you access your fuses), manually close the latches with a screwdriver or similar, lock the car, let it sit for 45 min or so to let all the different modules turn off, then bridge the negative battery terminal to the negative battery lead with your multimeter probes, with the MM in DC current mode (usually you have to plug the leads into different holes on the MM). This means that all the juice going to your car is going through the MM so you'll be seeing a quantifiable measure of the current draw. I'm waiting for this circuit draw tester with extra inline fuses to arrive to make sure things are extra safe, but while I wait for it I decided it might be wise to just do a quick check on the alternator last night to try and rule that out. I followed exactly as ChrisFix outlined in that video, and barely got into the first step before it was obvious that something was malfunctioning, nothing was registering on the meter, and the leads basically started melting. So much for that plan. Innova 1-star reviews on Amazon have a bunch of people saying they had similar issues, so I chalked it up as a dud and sent it back. This is how I intend to check for parasitic draw. There are a couple videos that show simpler ways but I just can't wrap my head around the ones that require me to refer to charts. The first method makes intuitive sense to me, and if it works, great. If it doesn't, then I guess it's chart time.  Edit: I should state that I've never done this before in case that weren't obvious, and whereas I'm familiar with soldering and simple circuits at a very basic level, my knowledge of electrical fundamentals is rudimentary at best, and so my success in doing this largely hinges on people like ChrisFix, or yourself, or anyone in this thread who wants to chime in and correct anything that is so blatantly incorrect that you worry for my own safety and the safety of those around me, to spell this stuff out for me, and I appreciate any and all advice that comes my way. I'll take your alarm fuse suggestion to heart when and if pulling that fuse specifically becomes necessary, specifically because I installed a bunch of old Cadillac horns a few months ago and I'm already losing dB in the range of human speech from how many times I've accidentally triggered the alarm in the 5' distance it takes me to get from my car door to the garage door. Seriously, whose idea was it at GM to hook the hood latch up to a random number generator that decides whether it triggers the alarm at that given instance based on zero other considerations? Because that's just so loving cruel. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 03:34
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MrOnBicycle posted:Anyone know the quality of SKF branded cambelt + water pump kits for the 1.6 PSA Diesel engine (Volvo D2, Citroen etc 1.6 HDI)? I seem to recall SKF being a quality brand, but you never know anymore. Might be able to score a brand new kit for 1/3 of the price. I haven't bought any SKF stuff for at least 7-8 years so things might have changed, but the cambelt tensioners and all four wheel bearings on my Peugeot are SKF and I can't find anything to fault them.
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Jan 9, 2024 13:34
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Stupid question: would a Bluetooth earbud case* interfere with a keyfob and remote keyless entry? I've had a few times in the last couple of weeks where I'd grab the door handle and the doors don't unlock. I've also gotten the earbuds in that time and keep the case in the same pocket as my keys. Figure the case is just blocking the signal from the keys, but wanna double check in case it's some issue with the car. *It's one of those cases that has a battery inside that charges the ear buds when they're put inside.
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Jan 9, 2024 14:48
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Same thing happens with my subaru's key and my cellphone sometimes. Only when my key and my phone are both in my left pocket. I can shuffle the relative positions of the key and the phone around and the key will work.
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Jan 9, 2024 18:12
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2006 Ford Focus. Sat unused for the month of December. Since returning to the US it's been a bit sluggish to start. Ran fine doing chores on Friday, went to try and use it yesterday and no crank, no start. Battery seems to be good, but tried giving it a jump start anyway to no avail. Everything lights up but the engine didn't even try to turn over. Checked fuses and relay, seems to be good. Am I likely looking at a failed starter motor? Any suggestions for other checks I can do?
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Jan 9, 2024 19:18
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What do you mean "battery seems to be good?" To me, given it sat for month and the symptoms you described it is a dead battery.
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Jan 9, 2024 19:32
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Yeah battery first and go from there. When was it last replaced?
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Jan 9, 2024 20:04
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Battery is two years old. Jump starting the car had no effect at all. Relay clicks but engine didn't even try to turn over.
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Jan 9, 2024 20:33
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That definitely sounds like a dead battery, I would check the voltage just to make sure. 2 years old is when my last two died. Otherwise could maybe be the neutral safety switch? Try starting in neutral instead of park, or jiggling the shifter when trying to turn it over (assuming it's an auto, if it's a manual, try bump starting it). I've heard tapping the starter while trying to turn it over can resurrect a dying one, probably worth a shot if someone is around to help. But definitely check your voltage.
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Jan 9, 2024 20:41
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How did you try to jump it - known good jumper cables? Jumper pack? I've seen some really lovely jumper cables that just get hot while not passing enough current to crank over an air cooled VW.
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Jan 9, 2024 20:41
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Multimeter showed 12.2V. Used known good jumper cables. Unfortunately it's parked out on the street so I can't throw it on a charger.
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Jan 9, 2024 20:57
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Digital War posted:Multimeter showed 12.2V. Used known good jumper cables. Unfortunately it's parked out on the street so I can't throw it on a charger. Yeah, that's dead. pull the battery out, hop on a bus to autozone and have them charge it for a bit.
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Jan 9, 2024 21:52
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They don't make car batteries like they used to. *old man rant*
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Jan 9, 2024 23:33
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I got a good one at Wal-Mart. Group 35 battery for $99, installed in the Econoline in July of 21. Took until this past fall to learn that the alternator never worked. For two years, I drove it on short grocery & hardware-store jaunts, and to five car shows, occasionally at night. The headlights were dim at the end of those trips, but it started right up every time and didnt seem weak. It wasnt until I was teaching my nephew to drive manual - hes got sand, starting with column - that the frequent re-starts killed it (second lesson that day: how to jackrabbit-start a manual with a dead battery). Bought an Optima. Finally got the alternator situation sorted. That Group 35 is sitting in my garage, showing 13.2 volts. I wouldnt have believed it was possible. But it is. Tell you this, though: I was blown away by how bright all of the lights became, from headlight to turn-signal indicator. How hard the blower motorblows on its single speed. Swear that the old JVC is pushing out more amperage. I feel somewhat stupid, but, like the alternator, none of those things worked when I bought it, so I figured hey, its cheap, poo poos weak, whatever PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 03:46
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My work van is a Nissan NV200 and the battery is about two years old. Van is in Phoenix AZ and our weather has been a bit cold, like 30-40 degrees overnight. Van is used Mon-Fri 8 hours a day. For about three weeks there have been random times she won't start and I've had to get a jump; usually this is right at start of work shift at 8am or so, but sometimes it happens when I'm at a delivery spot for a while (over 5 minutes) and the van sits with flashers on. My portable jumper usually kicks her over in a minute but today she started fine at morning, then two hours later she needed a jump twice in 30 minutes/two deliveries. Got her tested at O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said her battery, starter, and alternator were all testing good. What the hell is wrong then? She started fine the rest of the day but it's always a crap shoot, it seems.
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Jan 10, 2024 05:02
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i popped for an optima redtop since i have the money for it for the first time in my life mostly because it's a twenty one year old sports car and it doesn't need any help breaking down
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Jan 10, 2024 05:30
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Sweevo posted:I haven't bought any SKF stuff for at least 7-8 years so things might have changed, but the cambelt tensioners and all four wheel bearings on my Peugeot are SKF and I can't find anything to fault them. Thanks! Yeah that's pretty much my idea of SKF as well, and seems to be what the internet says as well.
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Jan 10, 2024 06:33
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Cowslips Warren posted:My work van is a Nissan NV200 and the battery is about two years old. Van is in Phoenix AZ and our weather has been a bit cold, like 30-40 degrees overnight. Van is used Mon-Fri 8 hours a day. Loose/dirty battery connections?
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Jan 10, 2024 06:34
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So my manual car journey continues. It's been going really well thanks to help from this thread. Just some general knowledge stuff. Most of the time when I shift I get a nice single satisfying pop into the gear. Sometimes it feels like a a few little clicks. Never have to force it or anything it's just that shifts don't all feel the same so I was curious. It's a 2023 Honda Civic Si. Came to me with 1,700 miles on it and has done it since I got it. Is it just the synchromesh doing work?
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Jan 10, 2024 06:51
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Could just be you not fully depressing the clutch?
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Jan 10, 2024 07:51
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Yeah a few little clicks sounds a lot like some minor gear grinding due to not sufficiently depressing the clutch.
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Jan 10, 2024 12:49
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Could be something simple, bunched up floor mat for example.
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Jan 10, 2024 12:57
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Well, went and tried starting the car this morning before taking the battery out and the drat thing started up first go. Still gonna give the battery a charge as it still reads 12.2V.
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Jan 10, 2024 13:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:Loose/dirty battery connections? No corrosion to be seen, which is weird because one of the older vans has like an inch caked on and that one starts fine all the time.
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Jan 10, 2024 14:40
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Uh oh. I checked on my way to work. I've got the clutch all the way in. I guess I should have it checked out? 3rd seems to be the biggest offender. Sometimes the shift just feels rough. No resistance, just not a nice pop in.
Travic fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 14:44
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Travic posted:Uh oh. I checked on my way to work. I've got the clutch all the way in. I guess I should have it checked out? 3rd seems to be the biggest offender. Sometimes the shift just feels rough. No resistance, just not a nice pop in. Its probably just the syncros and not equalizing revs if I have to guess. Manual transmission feel stuff is notoriously hard to diagnose over the internet.
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Jan 10, 2024 15:02
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Travic posted:Uh oh. I checked on my way to work. I've got the clutch all the way in. I guess I should have it checked out? 3rd seems to be the biggest offender. Sometimes the shift just feels rough. No resistance, just not a nice pop in. Is it cold when clicky and warmed up when satisfying? I've noticed a lot of cars like a more gentle pull on the shifter when cold.
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Jan 10, 2024 15:52
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PainterofCrap posted:I got a good one at Wal-Mart. Group 35 battery for $99, installed in the Econoline in July of 21. The alternator had to have been working in some capacity because there's no way you'd get two years on straight battery power.
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Jan 10, 2024 15:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It’s probably just the syncros and not equalizing revs if I have to guess. Manual transmission feel stuff is notoriously hard to diagnose over the internet. Yeah it's hard to convey what I'm feeling. Thank you for the help. honda whisperer posted:Is it cold when clicky and warmed up when satisfying? I've noticed a lot of cars like a more gentle pull on the shifter when cold. It is definitely worse when cold, but it will do it sometimes when warm.
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Jan 10, 2024 16:57
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when i start my 2004 wrx there's a kinda scratchy grinding sound for the first fraction of a second when the engine cranks. starter grinding teeth? some pulley clutch tired and complaining? it always starts right as the engine fires, not when it starts to crank, and goes away after probably a quarter to a half second. it does it every time cold or warm very consistently. oil's topped up
Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 16:58
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Cactus Ghost posted:when i start my 2004 wrx there's a kinda scratchy grinding sound for the first fraction of a second when the engine cranks. starter grinding teeth? some pulley clutch tired and complaining? it always starts right as the engine fires, not when it starts to crank, and goes away after probably a quarter to a half second. it does it every time cold or warm very consistently. oil's topped up Likely a hydraulic chain tensioner allowing slop somewhere (timing chain or cam chain I can't remember how those motors go) until the oil pressure comes up and it tensions the chain.
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Jan 10, 2024 17:41
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