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I would guess that the issue here is that the leaf is usually stored in a closet or something, and thus hasn't seen anywhere near as much sunlight as the rest of the table. I bet that if you let the leaf do some sunbathing, within a week or so the difference will be a lot less stark.
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Jan 10, 2024 01:02
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Most finishes aren't very UV resistant and the sun is not just attacking a stain, it is likely bleaching the wood too. You can strip the finish and stain dark and try to get a match but it's challenging. You can sand to fresh wood but keeping it smooth and flat while removing that much is challenging. And you can refinish with UV resistant finish such as spar varnish but that's the expensive stuff and even then, the UV resistance fades over time so in critical applications you refinish every six or eight years or something. To prevent this, put a tablecloth on the table all the time. To fix it, cover the table and then leave the leaf out in the sun for a couple years.
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Jan 10, 2024 08:32
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Yeah I don't think they're going to want to stain it since it's teak (I've never really seen someone stain a teak piece either, at least in my experience) Personally I'd lean towards just dealing with it since if they use the leaf it's some big fancy dinner where there's a tablecloth anyway.
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Jan 10, 2024 09:51
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Generalissimo
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Yeah, I'd recommend against sanding or at least sand very carefully. Looks like sequenced teak veneer, so there probably isn't a whole lot of material there before you would hit substrate. If you want to refinish it so it all matches, it would almost certainly require stain. I wouldn't trust the veneer to have much unbleached below the surface if the difference is that pronounced.
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Jan 10, 2024 23:07
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Easiest, most reversible, and least destructive option is to try a tinted wax like BriWax on the faded parts. More involved but also reversible option if the existing finish is in good condition (it looks like it is): refinish over the existing finish without stripping. Clean the table really well with naphtha, sand it with 320, then pad on padding lacquer/shellac/french polish with some dye in it to bring some color back to the bleached parts. If you are able to spray you will have a much easier time getting even color. Finish with your film finish of choice, tho I would recommend nitrocellulose lacquer or shellac as both are fairly easily stripped if something goes wrong. E: If is is really driving them totally crazy and they gotta have it really fixed, the right way to do it is strip the finish off with a chemical stripper then bleach the unfaded leaves till they match the faded part. Then use dye (mostly) and pigment stains to get the color back where they want it, then topcoat. It is really hard to get a totally natural looking color that will match the unfaded wood back into faded wood ime. The best way is to take it all back to the same faded state and then work forward from there if a very consistent color is really important. Faded/bleached wood is damaged wood and it takes stain in funny ways sometimes. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 03:26
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Thanks for all the input folks. I may go have a look at it in person as I haven't seen it with the leaf/without tablecloth. I'll pass a bunch of the info on. I'd definitely not do it myself as I wouldn't have a good enough spray setup for something at this scale.
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Jan 11, 2024 07:05
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God I just love the grain on this stuff:
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Jan 11, 2024 21:44
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 Is this woodwording? I bought the blade blank but made the handle - zebrawood, amboyna, and brass. The woods were stabilised, I finished by sanding to 8000 grit and using Renaissance Wax.
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Jan 12, 2024 18:08
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:
Pretty, that's always something I've wanted to try doing. Where did you grab the blade? How did you find the process?
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Jan 12, 2024 18:39
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Thanks. I got the blade blank here but it seems they're really easy to get hold of. It wasn't perfect quality - it was quite warped so I had to grind it flat. In terms of the process this was actually the second one I made - the first one I used just the cheapest materials I could find, so that I could make my mistakes without ruining something I actually like. I still hosed up a few times on this one but managed to recover - I had intended another bit of brass at the front but it pinged off when I was grinding the shape. I also foolishly drilled the pin holes with both sides of the handle on one side , without having checked their thickness was perfectly uniform so they did not fit at first and needed re-drilling. The shaping ended up being impractical to do by hand so I got a tube sanding attachment for an angle grinder which I used as a makeshift belt grinder - I also made an improvised extraction hood: The downside to this was the whole idea of this project was that I could do it between sets when I'm working out in the garage early morning - but because this grinder was so noisy that was not possible. I'll probably do another for my dad for father's day.
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Jan 12, 2024 19:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I would guess that the issue here is that the leaf is usually stored in a closet or something, and thus hasn't seen anywhere near as much sunlight as the rest of the table. I bet that if you let the leaf do some sunbathing, within a week or so the difference will be a lot less stark. Something like this would get my vote too. The stain of the leaf takes away from the natural beauty of teak, which the 2 ends are much closer to, imo.
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Jan 12, 2024 22:36
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:Is this woodwording? This is crossover woodworking/metalworking and I am here for it. We do have a knifemaking thread but it gets like two posts a year so I think it's better to just assume it's dead now. I love your janky as gently caress grinding setup. Please don't lose a fingat. 8000 grit seems extremely extra for wood? I thin most of us never go past like 400 grit. I've used 8000 for sharpening blades of course, but that's mirror finish on steel and for wood there's pores and stuff. Maybe it's more normal in the knifemaking world?
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Jan 12, 2024 22:48
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800 grit would be only a little over-the-top and risking issues with the finish. The local lapidary guild's polishers stop at 3000 grit and if you wanna get *super fuckin shiny* on the handful of gemstones it'll even make a visible difference on you can slap some cerium oxide or holy cow on a buffing wheel nice work btw making knife scales is a lot of fun
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Jan 12, 2024 23:30
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8000 definitely over the top for wood but I didn't know if it'd make a difference that it's stabilised. Going to 3000 definitely does make a difference to the appearance of the steel and brass that is visible on the spine, I'd also bought a pack of micromesh pads and won't use the higher ones for anything else so figured I'd have a go.
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Jan 13, 2024 05:34
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After you get a bit above 4-600 grit, you begin to run into trouble with penetrating finishes and stains, as the fine dust may pack into the pores. If you are just putting on a moisture barrier like Renaissance wax or rubbed wax, then don't worry about it, sand as high as you want.
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Jan 13, 2024 07:41
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Has anyone done frames for oil paintings? I have literally no idea where to start.
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Jan 14, 2024 21:31
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It's essentially molding w a rabbet on the other side for the painting to slot into
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Jan 14, 2024 21:44
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PokeJoe posted:It's essentially molding w a rabbet on the other side for the painting to slot into How is the painting held in? With posters and pictures you have rabbet on one side and usually those clips on the other.
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Jan 14, 2024 21:51
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Screw in Z brackets
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Jan 14, 2024 21:53
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Stultus Maximus posted:Has anyone done frames for oil paintings? I have literally no idea where to start. generally, you start with a canvas, then maybe some paint e:f,b
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Jan 14, 2024 23:16
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Checked my YouTube and by golly the painting restoration guy I follow went to a frame shop recently https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYeIP2jOud8
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Jan 14, 2024 23:26
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Stultus Maximus posted:How is the painting held in? With posters and pictures you have rabbet on one side and usually those clips on the other.
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Jan 15, 2024 04:54
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Restoring an old plane, removed the frog and underneath is packing with thick grease. Going to soak in kerosene to try and remove. Some half assed attempt at reducing vibration or something?
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Jan 15, 2024 22:24
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Strange, never seen that particular solution before
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Jan 15, 2024 22:29
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Stuff was fossilized, had to really get after with a toothbrush despite the kerosene. Now I've got all this greasy kerosene to dump down the storm drain...
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Jan 15, 2024 23:42
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That's horrible for the environment do this instead
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Jan 15, 2024 23:56
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NomNomNom posted:Stuff was fossilized, had to really get after with a toothbrush despite the kerosene. No idea about grease and kerosene, but often if you leave dirty solvents to sit for a while the contaminants will settle out and you can strain off the (mostly) clean solvent on the top and reuse it as a first run cleaner or for cleaning funky stuff like old planes. E: DO NOT DO THIS but if you have an oil fired heater you could (probably) strain it and dump it in with everything else. Or give it to a friend that has an oil fired raku kiln or something. Fuel oil is more or less less refined, dirty kerosene anyway. Or just use it as lighter fluid for a bonfire or fire pit or grill or something. Kerosene and diesel are surprisingly not very volatile. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jan 16, 2024 |
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Jan 16, 2024 00:35
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For real, I pour stuff like that into empty laundry detergent bottles and label them and eventually drop them off someplace during a no-fee event the city sponsors like one or twice a year.
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Jan 16, 2024 00:35
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Yeah I put it in an old paint can to take to the hazmat recycler
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Jan 16, 2024 02:11
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im just gonna keep filling up my garage with oil pans and cans of hazardous stuff and telling myself that one day ill learn what im supposed to do with them, secretly hoping that one day ill check and theyll just be empty through some sort of evaporative magic
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Jan 16, 2024 02:15
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next time use the god of degreasers: brake cleaner
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Jan 16, 2024 02:54
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Fellatio del Toro posted:im just gonna keep filling up my garage with oil pans and cans of hazardous stuff and telling myself that one day ill learn what im supposed to do with them, secretly hoping that one day ill check and theyll just be empty through some sort of evaporative magic gently caress sorry forgot to log out of my alt
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Jan 16, 2024 03:07
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Fellatio del Toro posted:im just gonna keep filling up my garage with oil pans and cans of hazardous stuff and telling myself that one day ill learn what im supposed to do with them, secretly hoping that one day ill check and theyll just be empty through some sort of evaporative magic Once it's dry it's not hazmat or anything, but I am sure the above would land you in jail in Europe or California or basically anywhere with any kind of VOC laws.
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Jan 16, 2024 04:17
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do you not have storm drains near your house? how else will the fish in your local river finish their woodworking projects?
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Jan 16, 2024 06:08
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A Real Happy Camper posted:do you not have storm drains near your house? how else will the fish in your local river finish their woodworking projects? That's really irresponsible and could cause issues with the wastewater systems. Dumping it in the river directly would be better.
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Jan 16, 2024 06:16
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I've got a question about grain filler. I am a noob, pardon any missteps or bad terminology on my part. I've got an electric guitar kit as a recreational project. Its body is solid mahogany. I want to paint it and have it be smooth, and I was recommended to use grain filler to get a smooth start. I got the filler. It's a powder, mixed with water. Instructions and guide videos vary - some say it should be mixed to a slightly thin paste consistency, some say it should be milk consistency. Some say it should be squeegeed on, some say brushed, some say rubbed. The packaging says to apply against the grain, wait 10 minutes, then squeegee off excess with a credit card. Once fully dried, guides and videos say to sand until the surface of the wood is visible again. I did a few tests on scrap oak and settled on the best results coming from milk thinness. I applied via circular rubbing, waited, squeegeed, and sanded with a 220 grit triangle detail sander. The wood felt really, really uniform and smooth, but when I sprayed on acrylic airbrush primer, the pores/grains were still visible. I ended up using leftover acrylic putty to fill it in. I have yet to try a fresh layer of primer. Am I doing something wrong with this process? Everyone online seems to be able to get perfectly smooth and level surfaces. Should I sand at a coarser grit first and then 220? Should I hand sand everything? Thicker or thinner application? Or since I want to prime and paint, should I just use Bondo or wood putty then sand/prime?
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Jan 16, 2024 16:26
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Oak is super porous, might not behave the same as the mahogany. That's all I have to add maybe the other finishing nerds can help
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Jan 16, 2024 16:44
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MJP posted:I've got a question about grain filler. I am a noob, pardon any missteps or bad terminology on my part.
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Jan 16, 2024 16:50
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you don't care about a clear appearance because you're painting it, any wood putty will do or bondo or joint compound or whatever. Old timey grain filler was brick dust and whiting and hide glue or linseed oil as a binder. Grain filler is always a pain IME, but you will definitely have an easier time with mahogany than oak. Rub it in crossgrain and squeegee it off cross-grain for best results. Should I aim for a thicker mix on my next attempt or stay at milky thickness?
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Jan 16, 2024 16:54
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Seems kind of a shame to paint over mahogany.
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Jan 16, 2024 17:14
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