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I went with Pikeman's Lament: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIH2Fcya6ZA The scenario comes from Neil Thomas 'One Hour Wargames', representing the thrust by the British at Salamanca to cut off the French lines of communication, and the counter-manouvre by the French as a flank attack. The battle is fought using Pendraken miniatures based on 40mm multi-figure bases, using the Pikeman's Lament ruleset. It's been a while since I played it and I made a few silly errors, but it was very fun and I hope you enjoy this battle report:
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Jan 8, 2024 17:10
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Today I painted this SdKfz 234/4, a vehicle from Germany's 'strap a Pak40 to everything' phase:
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Jan 9, 2024 06:05
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Southern Heel posted:I went with Pikeman's Lament: Great video; I'm a big fan of the scenarios from One Hour Wargames, if not the rules themselves. Your table and models look lovely too!
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Jan 9, 2024 06:07
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Endman posted:Today I painted this SdKfz 234/4, a vehicle from Germany's 'strap a Pak40 to everything' phase: If it fits it sits. Marginally better armor than the SdKfz 250 basis at least.
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Jan 9, 2024 06:50
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Endman posted:Today I painted this SdKfz 234/4, a vehicle from Germany's 'strap a Pak40 to everything' phase: Looks great! What's your chipping colors? I want to steal it for my armor when I eventually get around to it.
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Jan 9, 2024 13:26
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Endman posted:Great video; I'm a big fan of the scenarios from One Hour Wargames, if not the rules themselves. Your table and models look lovely too! Thank you - I really gravitated to the rules with the guidance of Springfield Fatts and the refinements he suggested (i.e. using 5+ dice rolls 'to hit' rather than simply rolling dice to see how many wounds you inflict, amongst others) but ultimately it is a very straightforward game. I think the author's heavy implication is that the rules are simply a way of playing out the scenarios, which is the inverse of the usual paradigm. Regarding the table: having experimented with lots of scales, I am fairly comfortable with 10mm scale as my standard for wargaming and my terrain has accumulated enough over time that I can pick and choose rather than fighting over the same cardboard bunker over and over as in my youth. I have thought about getting another 3x3' card table, but I reckon this size keeps me honest since armies of 12-15 bases per side are about the maximum I can fit and the most complex I want my games to be.
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Jan 9, 2024 13:31
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Springfield Fatts posted:Looks great! What's your chipping colors? I want to steal it for my armor when I eventually get around to it. I sponged on Vallejo Model Colour Stone Grey and then brushed VMC German Camo Black Brown into some of the sponged areas, trying to be uneven.
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Jan 9, 2024 21:46
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Looks like the author of Absolute Emperor (my fav. napoleonic ruleset) is creating a new version for the Seven Years War! I'm hyped as heck! 54mm Britain soldiers based up for One Hour Wargames (not mine!): 
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 14, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 17:01
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I often talk about about pushing up brightness contrast on smaller-scale figures, so I used a spare hour today to pump up the highlights on the rest of the sailing ships (first batch in the mini painting thread): They were already painted beforehand but very dully. I repainted with brighter base rims, highlighted the rigging (at least on the british ships) and adding some water effects (which may be verging on Night Lords territory) it has me wanting to play a game with them. I don't think the visual spectacle can ever match something like Dystopian Wars, Armada or Man-o-War but I'm much happier. Or at least, I hate them less.
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Jan 14, 2024 22:43
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They look great! They really pop.
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Jan 14, 2024 23:21
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Agreed! Looks real good to me - a hell of a lot better than I'd manage with windjammers, that's for sure
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Jan 15, 2024 04:21
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Major Isoor posted:Agreed! Looks real good to me - a hell of a lot better than I'd manage with windjammers, that's for sure Virtual Russian posted:They look great! They really pop. That's really kind, thank you. I'm working my way through another game of Fighting Sail, but not really enjoying myself - so these are likely to end up back on the shelf fairly sharpish. The problem is that the differences between ships is so miniscule it's basically impossible to tell the classes or ratings apart on the tabletop without squinting. I have the same problem with my Pre-dreadnought battleship minis but to an even greater extent because they both act and look more similar to each other. In both cases unit nameplates would help a little, but doesn't really solve the problem of a dozen mostly identical minis acting mostly identically. Maybe that's why fantasy naval games are having a bit of a resurgence?
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Jan 15, 2024 09:14
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I had a great game of Saga the other day with my partner. Anglo-saxons versus Vikings, using the meeting engagement deployment. I took an early loss when my lord got surrounded and stabbed to death by warriors, to my shock, and I think that, to a large extent, put me on the back foot throughout - the We Obey activation is really handy! I do struggle a bit with Odin, and I think I might generally go in a bit too quick because of it - I'm feeling like you really want to have Call To Arms and/or Bretwalda ready to go at all times and hang back until you've got it. EDIT: I didn't have enough photos for a blow-by-blow but please enjoy the following images.  My lord, about to get murked.  And now he gets murked!  The levy avenged their lord, but this last dude hung around for a terrifyingly long time and ultimately took like 3 turns to kill.  From my partner's perspective, it looked even more badass.  Attempting to weather down the hearthguard went pretty bad, and this is where the game ended. spectralent fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 16, 2024 |
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Jan 16, 2024 18:10
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 I finished off those Victrix Norman Cavalry I'd been working on. Seeing your SAGA pictures makes me want to get a game of that in!
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Jan 16, 2024 20:26
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Those look a lot nicer than mine  I've got that kit but haven't put it together yet! It looks great, though those lances fill me with anxiety.
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Jan 16, 2024 20:40
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spectralent posted:Those look a lot nicer than mine They are super-fiddly, to be sure. EDIT: The guy on the Andalusian in the front rank? The one with the vertical lance? Yeah, his spear is about a quarter inch too long to fit in my storage/transport box standing up. 
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Jan 17, 2024 00:03
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Can anyone who has played "To the Strongest" or "For King and Parliament" help give me some pointers around the grid expectations and the impact on basing/unit size? As preamble: I've got a 3'x3' table for wargaming and I have no desire or intention of increasing that.  With a full-game 12x8 Grid I get 3" box sizes, which means I could use 60mm bases, but there's no chance at all of fitting my existing Pike and Shot units  With a mid-game 9x6 Grid I get 4" box sizes, so I could use pairs of 40mm bases. Pike and Shot would fit at 1:1 instead of 1:2.   With a small-game 7x6 Grid I get 5" box sizes, so I could use pairs of 2" bases per unit, and my existing Pike and Shot units fit in as-is. I think aesthetically I prefer the big grid boxes with the larger units in them, but I have no frame of reference about how TTS/FKP changes between being small-medium-full sized.
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Jan 19, 2024 09:57
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You can work it however you like so long as you follow the unit occupation limits that only a max of 2 units can occupy a single square, unless they're Deep in which case the other units has to be a Light unit. My personal preference is to also leave some space for a General / Heroes and unit rotation / staggering to represent a Disordered unit since I try and have as few tokens on the table as possible. Out of your examples I'd say the 9x6 grid works best. Space for everything I mentioned above, and a little more for your cards used during the game. Speaking of if space is your biggest hurdle I would spend time or money on a token set to replace the playing cards. If you've got a poker set laying around people will just paint the face and number cards on the red & black chips. Or if you're lucky find a playing card mahjong set and be good to go. They will take up way less space than a card behind each unit, shaking a bag is faster than shuffling a deck, and pulling something out of a bag is more dramatic than flipping a card anyway!
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Jan 19, 2024 15:18
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Springfield Fatts posted:You can work it however you like so long as you follow the unit occupation limits that only a max of 2 units can occupy a single square, unless they're Deep in which case the other units has to be a Light unit. My personal preference is to also leave some space for a General / Heroes and unit rotation / staggering to represent a Disordered unit since I try and have as few tokens on the table as possible. Out of your examples I'd say the 9x6 grid works best. Space for everything I mentioned above, and a little more for your cards used during the game. Thanks, I was looking at a mini-deck or maybe just a bunch of D10's - but realistically I think I need to get the figures painted first, either Norman + Saxon, or WOTR - I technically have both ADLG/DBA and Lion Rampant in my book collection that I'm at least broadly familiar with already, so I reckon it might be good policy to sit on my hands. I say that mostly because I got caught up in the Never Mind the Billhooks hype-train, ordered the books/tokens/cards/etc. and then upon reading it realised I hated how complex it was. I think my days of 'difficult' rules are over with the very specific exception of Rogue Trader/Warhammer Fantasy 3rd where the nostalgia and familiarity can overcome it.
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Jan 19, 2024 22:22
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Southern Heel posted:I say that mostly because I got caught up in the Never Mind the Billhooks hype-train, ordered the books/tokens/cards/etc. and then upon reading it realised I hated how complex it was. I think my days of 'difficult' rules are over with the very specific exception of Rogue Trader/Warhammer Fantasy 3rd where the nostalgia and familiarity can overcome it. That's kind of where I'm at. The Billhooks book is AWESOME, and insanely detailed for the underrepresented wars it covers (to wit, the Italian Wars, Swiss Burgundian Wars, and personal favorite the Hussite Wars). But once that chrome wore off I realized that I just didn't want to play a complicated ruleset with custom cards and stuff... The trouble is the 1500 cutoff for most of the rulesets I want to use in 15mm. To the Strongest covers WotR, Hussite Wars, 100YW, etc., but ends before the Italian Wars and then I would have to bolt on some custom stuff from For King and Parliament. Same end date for stuff like DBA and Triumph. Honestly the best option seems to be Impetus, since it has the usual DBA/TtS/multiera fare, but also includes the Italian Wars and some later Samurai stuff (i.e. post gunpowder sengoku jidai). Anyone have thoughts of Impetus? If it's a slam dunk I'll just go whole hog into the big multibases because it does look cool and I'm just playing with myself anyway. Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 20, 2024 |
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Jan 20, 2024 02:46
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Question for folks! So a couple weeks ago, I got the idea to run a Cold War Gone Hot RPG-ish thing for some friends over TTS, using the Team Yankee rules. Basically, I set up the scenarios, my friends each run a small formation (Currently ~30 points each) together against the WARPACT opposition, and based on what happens in the game, like what objectives they accomplish or how badly they get mauled, they'll get different upgrades or units they can use in their next mission, until the game world devolves to the point that I reveal I've actually secretly been having them play Twilight: 2000  So my question is, has anyone run anything like this before, and regardless if so, does anyone have any suggestions on how to run it or what scenarios might be fun to try and set up? I know Team Yankee isn't really the ideal ruleset for the wargaming part of it, but it's what I and my friends know (Or are at least vaguely aware of), and what I have easy enough access to. I am planning to modify the rules to make it alternate activation instead of IGOUGO, and to allow units to fire farther than their standard range since TTS allows for much larger boards with more varied terrain. I am also considering picking up the most recent Aces campaign card pack as another advancement mechanic, though the $20 price tag seems... steep.
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Jan 20, 2024 09:30
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Count Thrashula posted:The trouble is the 1500 cutoff for most of the rulesets I want to use in 15mm. To the Strongest covers WotR, Hussite Wars, 100YW, etc., but ends before the Italian Wars and then I would have to bolt on some custom stuff from For King and Parliament. Same end date for stuff like DBA and Triumph. With To the Strongest! I know Simon Miller is working on a Renaissance army list book, so presumably that'll cover the Italian Wars, until then I'm just painting minis and building up numbers myself. So hopefully by the time it shows up I have enough for at least two smallish forces so I can rope people into playing it with me! As for basing - man I keep eyeballing those larger multi bases, and they look so pretty, but I have decided to go with 40x20 for infantry and 40x40 for cavalry and just stack bases in whatever formation is needed since I hope that way it'll let me cover a bunch of systems.
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Jan 21, 2024 16:43
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I keep telling myself the same, but his renaissance version has been in development since 2015 so I've gotten a bit tired of waiting around 😄
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Jan 22, 2024 02:01
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I don't know if this helps but there's a big fan work of FK&P here that may help you stitch something together. https://www.vislardica.com/fkp-the-eastern-front
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Jan 22, 2024 13:17
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hi my folks, does any company make 6mm plastic napoleonics minis? my dumb arse is finding a complete blank on locating that combination.
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Jan 24, 2024 06:54
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dingo with a joint posted:hi my folks, does any company make 6mm plastic napoleonics minis? my dumb arse is finding a complete blank on locating that combination. Not as far as I know. I pretty much draw a blank at plastic 6mm at all.
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Jan 24, 2024 06:57
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lilljonas posted:Not as far as I know. I pretty much draw a blank at plastic 6mm at all. nuts. what's the smallest scale i'm going to find in plastic? too many years of pain have led me to swear off metal for life.
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Jan 24, 2024 07:32
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dingo with a joint posted:nuts. what's the smallest scale i'm going to find in plastic? too many years of pain have led me to swear off metal for life. For Napoleonics, your best bet is probably Warlord Games "Epic" range. It's mostly (?) plastic and somewhere in between 10 and 15mm. https://eu.warlordgames.com/collections/epic-battles-waterloo At least you'd get the main bulk of your army in plastic. IIRC a lot of the more niche minis are in "warlord resin", not metal.
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Jan 24, 2024 08:28
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You'll likely have a very easy time finding 3D prints of 6mm figures, FWIW, if resin's any better for you.
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Jan 24, 2024 10:51
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lilljonas posted:For Napoleonics, your best bet is probably Warlord Games "Epic" range. It's mostly (?) plastic and somewhere in between 10 and 15mm. check. little bigger than i was after, but very pretty. looks like you'd end up with really wide frontage on your infantry, though; they seem to be molded as one big block of ten lads wide. i was aiming for 40mm wide bases from a game functionality perspective, which doesn't look achievable with this crew. how easy are they to separate? spectralent posted:You'll likely have a very easy time finding 3D prints of 6mm figures, FWIW, if resin's any better for you. my concern with resin is bits breaking off, but if my choice for 6mm is resin or metal, yup i'll take resin every time. do any of the better sculpters sell pre-printed minis or is this hobby territory?
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Jan 24, 2024 23:33
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dingo with a joint posted:check. little bigger than i was after, but very pretty. looks like you'd end up with really wide frontage on your infantry, though; they seem to be molded as one big block of ten lads wide. i was aiming for 40mm wide bases from a game functionality perspective, which doesn't look achievable with this crew. how easy are they to separate? Pre-printed minis are really easy to find on etsy or ebay or any number of licensed sites, yeah. ABS-like resin isn't too brittle, FWIW - like, I drop mine and they're fine instead of shattering into a million pieces like SOME resin casts I could name. If you're going to be printing a bunch it might be worth getting into since there's entirely functional printers for like £200 nowadays, but, if you don't want £300 of army out of it you'll probably not want to bother.
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Jan 25, 2024 00:37
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spectralent posted:Pre-printed minis are really easy to find on etsy or ebay or any number of licensed sites, yeah. ABS-like resin isn't too brittle, FWIW - like, I drop mine and they're fine instead of shattering into a million pieces like SOME resin casts I could name. If you're going to be printing a bunch it might be worth getting into since there's entirely functional printers for like £200 nowadays, but, if you don't want £300 of army out of it you'll probably not want to bother. What length are you curing yours at? I use ABS-like but still get the odd bayonet snapping off.
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Jan 25, 2024 00:55
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I don't mind resin minis at 6mm, but I always replace my banners with a metal rod and sculpt a flag. Resin banners always snap. My advice if you don't have/want a printer (like me) is to find someone, online or in your area, that does a good job and only get stuff from them. I send a guy files and he prints them, they are always perfect and he always ships them in a box with padding. Until you find that person it is a nightmare. I've had people ship me loose half-cured minis in a regular envelop and then they get indignant that I'd want my money back. Some people just have no clue how to print, package, and ship resin minis. I once got a box that was seeping uncured resin.
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Jan 25, 2024 03:18
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I've not bothred with my 10mm figures but I saw an interesting tip from someone modelling in 2mm/3mm - to use individual bristles of a plastic brush/broom clipped off. You can find the right diameter and clip to size, and then they're super resilient, no chance of stabbnig or breaking.
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Jan 25, 2024 11:03
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6mm resin prints can be ok if they're sculpted with the material in mind - that is, close body posture, no protruding bayonets or hands, thickened banners and rifles where necessary, etc. Otherwise you've got figures with the strength of a raw, shaved spaghetti noodle. People scale down stuff with no regard for material strength, and it's a mistake. Ankles snap if you look at them too hard, and hat brims will flake off if you brush them too hard.
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Jan 25, 2024 16:12
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Yeah, that's why Henry Turner is the god-king of 6mm printed miniatures. His stuff looks really weird scaled up, but it works perfectly at 6mm.
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Jan 25, 2024 16:32
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100% agreed! This all tracks back to how immature an art digital sculpting is, especially at niche scales. This gets compounded by the fact that anyone can buy a printer and start selling on Etsy/ebay, the barrier to entry is non-existent compared to garage casting. I'll still always prefer castings made from greens, but I do have a lot of prints. They are convenient when things are done right.
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Jan 25, 2024 18:29
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I'm having a great time taking pictures of my models with some terrain; I think it makes them look way better: I finished this M10 GMC from Battlefront today
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Jan 27, 2024 08:38
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I agree - that terrain looks so much nicer than the generic dirty workbench! Incidentally, does anyone have recommendations for non-house dark age terrain? Woven hazel fences, ditches/hedges and fields? I’ve got some farm animals as scatter terrain And a couple of resin houses on order from Pendraken, but it would be nice to amp up the theme of the game…
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Jan 27, 2024 08:47
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Farm fields, pig pen, hay stacks, standing stones, old church are some good ones Fogou models has great stuff
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Jan 27, 2024 14:09
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