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They're usually really good about timely shipping, and the times they aren't, I eventually call them up (real mad) and they had some sort of hold on the account and just don't bother telling you. It's super stupid and could easily have blown some of my timelines out of the water
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Jan 15, 2024 19:06
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That's why I order from Mouser. If I get my order in before 5PM, it shows up the next day. I'm in Texas tho, so ymmv.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:19
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Cojawfee posted:That's why I order from Mouser. If I get my order in before 5PM, it shows up the next day. I'm in Texas tho, so ymmv. North Florida here, I get Mouser orders in about 2 business days while DigiKey is usually closer to a week. I still order a lot from DigiKey since they have a better search engine and usually a somewhat wider selection of in-stock parts. If I need something fast I look it up on DigiKey and then order it from Mouser. Speaking of DigiKey - has anyone else been getting pop-ups on their website demanding that you prove you're not a bot? Granted, I've been designing a medium complex board and have been clicking on their website quite a lot over the last two or so weeks, but I've done that before with other designs and not gotten the warning. I kind of wonder if their system noticed that my IP range, containing me and two other EEs, clicks on their website a ton but never buys anything because actual orders are placed by a purchasing group in another building.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:46
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I'm pretty sure I occasionally get the "are you a bot" thing, though not recently (but I haven't been doing anything too intense recently). The weirdest experience I had with Digikey didn't have them just hold the order for secret reasons until I asked them, but I couldn't even add the item to my basket if i was logged in (and I could if I wasn't logged in, but it'd disappear when I logged in if I added it first). It was a FLIR Lepton sensor + USB carrier board for it, just to play with, and it turns out they don't sell those to just anybody...but I just used the live chat, and apparently Digikey accounts have secret levels and they upgraded me from level 1 to level 2 right there on chat, and then I was able to keep the item in my basket when I logged in and place the order.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:22
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There are several levels of export restrictions on IR imaging, in part based on frame rate. They don't want you making a missile seeker with it. e: one time Mouser made me fill out an end user certification for a PIR motion detector sensor, like the kind used to control a driveway floodlight. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 22:57
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Oh yeah, I’ve had to fill in export certification for random parts many times. Just that lepton sensor required the secret account upgrade. What’s funnier is you can get the same sensor without certification from some consumer products and they’re socketed, so you could just get them that way, certification-free. Of course I do also know it’s all arbitrary. I once had to fill in an export certificate for a low end GPS module. Clearly it’s just err on the side of caution with things that might be used in something weapon-esque.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:05
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PDP-1 posted:Speaking of DigiKey - has anyone else been getting pop-ups on their website demanding that you prove you're not a bot? Granted, I've been designing a medium complex board and have been clicking on their website quite a lot over the last two or so weeks, but I've done that before with other designs and not gotten the warning. I kind of wonder if their system noticed that my IP range, containing me and two other EEs, clicks on their website a ton but never buys anything because actual orders are placed by a purchasing group in another building. It also happens to me, but only when I am knee-deep in verifying my BOM and don't feel like filing a bug report. This is while logged in to my account that has bought >$1,000/yr for 10+ years. This is some dumb rate-limiting thing they've added.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:37
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ryanrs posted:Yeah, pre-terminated headphone cables are available down to something like 6mm dia, but most have 28 awg wires. Maybe you could install a 1/4" headphone connector IN the 8mm panel hole?
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Jan 16, 2024 20:20
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I am a rank newb, and I need some sort of clips for prototyping. For temporarily connecting a single standard female 2.54mm dupont jumper to a board with no header pins soldered in, like in the picture, any opinons on which is the correct/best mini grabber? Diligent, Pomona, anything better or cheaper, or is there some other way?
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Jan 17, 2024 22:27
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Realistically, the correct way is to solder headers on, and then use JST / Dupont jumpers to connect up your stuff
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Jan 18, 2024 00:11
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PDP-1 posted:North Florida here, I get Mouser orders in about 2 business days while DigiKey is usually closer to a week. I still order a lot from DigiKey since they have a better search engine and usually a somewhat wider selection of in-stock parts. If I need something fast I look it up on DigiKey and then order it from Mouser. I live in Canada (Toronto, Ontario) and if I order early enough I get my Digikey stuff delivered the next day unless the FedEx driver feels like declaring that I am not home when I was. ante posted:Realistically, the correct way is to solder headers on, and then use JST / Dupont jumpers to connect up your stuff Yeah having a dozen grabbers coming off of that seems awful. IMO just solder pins on and use it with a breadboard or PCB.
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Jan 18, 2024 01:11
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Unless you're a soldering savant, I think buying a new board for $20 with headers will save you more than $20 of frustration in wondering whether or not you've bridged your pads every time you need to debug.
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Jan 18, 2024 01:49
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theflyingexecutive posted:Unless you're a soldering savant, I think buying a new board for $20 with headers will save you more than $20 of frustration in wondering whether or not you've bridged your pads every time you need to debug. Strong disagree
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Jan 18, 2024 01:54
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100 mil spacing with nice plated holes and a solder mask on everything else presents the most favorable conditions for soldering. If anything it's an ideal situation for a newbie to practice soldering. It's not like we're recommending that they solder surface mount components. Just look at how dang much solder mask is between those holes - any bridge will be obvious.
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Jan 18, 2024 02:01
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I was really hoping to hook up the 4 pins to test an I2C component and confirm the poo poo works before I decide whether to cover my house in esp32/up my solder game
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Jan 18, 2024 02:19
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theflyingexecutive posted:Unless you're a soldering savant, I think buying a new board for $20 with headers will save you more than $20 of frustration in wondering whether or not you've bridged your pads every time you need to debug. Soldering is not that hard, especially through hole stuff. You really have to mess things up bad to bridge pins like that. And bridging is easily checked by using a multimeter with a continuity mode to check adjacent pins to make sure they aren't shorted together.
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Jan 18, 2024 02:19
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I use mini hooks for everything these days: They'll hook right into those plated through-holes on your board and if you decide to solder header pins on the board later, they'll also hook just fine to the header pins. They do a pretty good job of packing themselves into a staggered configuration if you have a bunch beside each other so unless you plan to have more than ~10 of them connected to a given board there really isn't much need to go with something denser. I use them a lot when I'm throwing together random crap for making quick measurements and powering demo boards and the like. It helps that they also come in banana plug-to-mini-hook versions for connecting to test equipment (a reminder: the de-facto standard handheld multimeter probe connector is banana plug compatible). If your plan is to connect something to every single one of those pins, though, clip leads wouldn't be my first choice. I'd probably just solder hook-up wire straight into them. It's only slightly less convenient than using a connector/clip.
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Jan 18, 2024 02:43
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^^^^There is no such thing as too many jumpers.
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Jan 18, 2024 02:48
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Stack Machine posted:I use mini hooks for everything these days: These are great and my go to as well. There are smaller ones that are more fragile, but allow for grabbing onto smaller things, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Goupchn-Grabber-Analyzer-Electronic-Testing/dp/B09TPBS7YF
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Jan 18, 2024 02:49
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Speaking of jumpers, who makes good multimeter probes and clips? Should I fork out the dough for a Fluke probe set for my Fluke multimeter?
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 18, 2024 |
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Jan 18, 2024 05:02
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kid sinister posted:Speaking of jumpers, who makes good multimeter probes and clips? Should I fork out the dough for a Fluke probe set for my Fluke multimeter? My good probes (spring loaded, crown tip, overkill if you aren't probing small things) are from https://probemaster.com
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Jan 18, 2024 05:13
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Foxfire_ posted:My good probes (spring loaded, crown tip, overkill if you aren't probing small things) are from https://probemaster.com Oh geez, they even make probes especially for back probing. Pro Tip: keep a package of sewing needles in your tool bag for back probing. They're as cheap as can be and in a pinch are sold in most stores. T pins are an alternative that are easier on your fingers, but you have to be more careful with the pins touching. It works great on weatherproof connectors, like in cars.
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Jan 18, 2024 05:23
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Man, why are those pomona IC test clips so expensive? I'm reading about how they can wear down over time too. I'm trying to program a lower end attiny (SOIC 8 package size) and the clips are all  at least. Am I missing some other simpler solution?
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Jan 18, 2024 08:51
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Run lines out to a maybe 5 cent pin header on the board and program it that way like a normal person
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Jan 18, 2024 08:56
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Aight cool
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Jan 18, 2024 09:00
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I mean they make these weird clamps specifically for clamping on to loose SOIC-8 chips if you really want to: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13153 But like, I've never not just run lines out to a programming port because it's so much easier. e: Wait no that's just the one you literally just posted I'm an idiot, I swear there was a different one you could like, snap the chip in? But it's probably still gonna be twenty bucks.
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Jan 18, 2024 09:08
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That's more expensive that the one the person already linked to.
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Jan 18, 2024 09:10
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Yeah makes sense. I can run out some pin header, good thing I asked, haha. Not sure if I can do that in the final design (trying to keep it very thin), but maybe I can do something cute with test pads and pogo pins. Or just buy a clip at that point. That will be a problem for later me. e. No worries! Shame Boy posted:I swear there was a different one you could like, snap the chip in? But it's probably still gonna be twenty bucks. Maybe you're thinking of something like this?  I've seen them called "zif socket" or "test socket" or something and yes, mysteriously enough they are around as well (adafruit). I think the test clip is slightly more versatile, but also I can still just do the pin header thing. They are really cool looking though 
Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Jan 18, 2024 |
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Jan 18, 2024 09:11
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You can get a 4 pin pogo header that you stick to some pads on the final board to program it. Just build up a cable for that thing, mark the orientation (or get one that's 4 in a line) and just jam that onto your board to program it after soldering on the chips.
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Jan 18, 2024 09:17
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Cojawfee posted:You can get a 4 pin pogo header that you stick to some pads on the final board to program it. Just build up a cable for that thing, mark the orientation (or get one that's 4 in a line) and just jam that onto your board to program it after soldering on the chips. Wow that's cool. Yeah definitely gonna gently caress around with something like that later. I want to print a charging cradle for my 3DS at some point and the thingiverse design I'm looking at uses pogo pins, so I can probably buy a pack of em and be all set.
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Jan 18, 2024 09:19
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Yeah makes sense. I can run out some pin header, good thing I asked, haha. Not sure if I can do that in the final design (trying to keep it very thin), but maybe I can do something cute with test pads and pogo pins. Or just buy a clip at that point. That will be a problem for later me. Yeah that's the one
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Jan 18, 2024 09:24
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I'm throwing around ideas for building a force-feedback thing with a friend and now I'm wondering, is there some terms I can throw into google to find like, absolute-positioning motors/actuators that are fine with being pushed against constantly? I guess servos operate like that but I was hoping it'd also have a readout of the current position if possible so I don't have to have a separate thing that measures that... e: I guess it would also need to adjust how much it's pushing against you, not just like a servo where it's trying to hold a set point with all its force all the time... e2: Googling "servo with position feedback" got me servos with position feedback, so that addresses that question, but you can't really adjust the force a servo pushes with can you? Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jan 18, 2024 |
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Jan 18, 2024 17:02
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Is this finally an excuse to use synchros, please tell me this is finally an excuse to use synchros
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Jan 18, 2024 17:16
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https://hackaday.com/2015/12/15/feeling-force-through-a-servo/ This guy's doing it with servos and some clever sensing and feedback so I guess this is prolly the most practical answer...
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Jan 18, 2024 17:34
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I can't for the life of me remember where I saw it, but I saw someone design a board to mount on the outboard end of a NEMA 17 stepper to make it act like a servo. Electronoob maybe? I'll try to remember to find a link tonight. If I remember the details well enough, it seems like that would be potentially useful for your project.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:14
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Yeah, I don't know if the Mechaduino is still going, but it would kinda fit the bill. The motor steps are very feelable though, I don't know if that matters
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Jan 19, 2024 02:06
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Maybe check out ODrive? I haven't looked lately, but it seems to be a neat, open servo platform. Teknic makes affordable, integrated servos for commercial/industrial use. Probably the most hobby-friendly industrial servo. I think most 'real' servos, i.e. not r/c servos, can do constant torque. With something like the ODrive, you should be able to do neat things like simulate the inertia of a heavy flywheel. I.e. mount a little handle to the servo shaft, and make it feel like you're turning a 50 lb disc.
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Jan 19, 2024 05:39
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I have an Odrive running my living room lathe, and I'm a little sour on them tbh
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Jan 19, 2024 20:46
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What problems have you run into? I haven't looked into them in detail since early in the project. The board at least seems to have been redesigned since then.
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Jan 19, 2024 21:11
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Thanks for the suggestions ryanrs, I'll give em' a look. In case anyone's interested, the idea (if I understand it right, anyway, Expo70 came up with it) is to have a control stick throttle thing that, based on conditions in a sim and the mode you're in etc, "wants" to be in a certain position, like it's trimmed to be there, but you can relatively easily push it out of there. Basically having the force feedback be a suggestion as to where a computer thinks you "should" be putting the input rather than just a pure reaction to aerodynamics acting on the craft or whatever. I'll bug her to explain it cuz I'm probably getting it wrong.
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Jan 19, 2024 21:23
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