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poop chute posted:Re: agitators, I think at this point everyone except GW includes a mixing ball. I know Army Painter and Two Thin Coats do, for sure, and I think the revamped Game Color paints have them as well. Yeah, I know Army Painter does, even in their spare mixing bottles. In fact, though, it was one of those that basically spoiled a bottle of Vince Venturella's gold mix to the point of unusability. Easy enough to open up and swap out the metal for glass, though. Meanwhile, I've been painting up this Sister of Silence, and figures that since she's the one with the flamer, might as well paint her like a Salamander, with the obsidian black skin and red eyes. Dunno if it's lore accurate or not, but gently caress it, we doing it live. Also, honestly think it came out pretty deece, so           Oh yeah, I magnetized the arms and wrists, because I'm building for Kill Team, and being able to go with a sword isn't a bad thing either. Honestly not that bad, though actually getting the magnets was the hardest thing because shipping loving sucks.
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Jan 18, 2024 16:49
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poop chute posted:Re: agitators, I think at this point everyone except GW includes a mixing ball. I know Army Painter and Two Thin Coats do, for sure, and I think the revamped Game Color paints have them as well. Reaper has always included agitators in their bottles, and they're little 28mm scale pewter skulls
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Jan 18, 2024 17:14
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Cardboard Fox posted:I laughed at those people that purchased one of those electric auto-mixers, but here I am shaking a contrast paint for 10 minutes without making a dent to the weird white stuff on the bottom of the container. Pro don’t do this tip: vortex mixers are excellent but they aerate the living poo poo out of the new citadel washes and some contrasts making them absolutely unusable until the air settles out of them and you don’t have a head on it like a pint of loving Guinness. Takes ages too.
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Jan 18, 2024 17:31
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poop chute posted:Re: agitators, I think at this point everyone except GW includes a mixing ball. I know Army Painter and Two Thin Coats do, for sure, and I think the revamped Game Color paints have them as well. New VGC does not have agitators included, I think the only vallejo bottles that do are the VMC ones.
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Jan 18, 2024 17:34
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Arcturas posted:Anyone have experience taking a vortex mixer apart to fiddle with it? Mine has a little cup under the rubber that I assume is sized for a test tube. It works well with an upside-down paint bottle or citadel pot, but trying to put them in right-side-up doesn't quite line up and often I have to fiddle to get a good connection on whatever switch activates the drat thing. My new one doesn't have this issue somehow. But this little adapter may do the trick for you https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4887753
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Jan 18, 2024 18:07
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I desperately want a Sisters of Silence kill team with adrathic destructors, nemesis bolters, webbers, etc. all the stuff that they can have in 30k but don’t have models for it. Also a jetbike.
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Jan 18, 2024 18:08
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Mr Teatime posted:Pro don’t do this tip: vortex mixers are excellent but they aerate the living poo poo out of the new citadel washes and some contrasts making them absolutely unusable until the air settles out of them and you don’t have a head on it like a pint of loving Guinness. Takes ages too. I have never seen this happen, but it could be because I transferred all my contrasts to droppers so I'm getting the good paint from the middle. Does this happen in pots?
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Jan 18, 2024 18:32
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PoptartsNinja posted:I have never seen this happen, but it could be because I transferred all my contrasts to droppers so I'm getting the good paint from the middle. Does this happen in pots? it's slightly noticeable just shaking it by hand, I guess the lip on the lid works like an aerator a little bit? it's not an actual problem though, just swirl the pot like a glass of wine for a bit
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Jan 18, 2024 19:10
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Picked up a paint brush for more or less the first time in about eleven years to make some wasteland bases. Kinda pleased with how they came out. 
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Jan 18, 2024 19:12
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Roller Coast Guard posted:Picked up a paint brush for more or less the first time in about eleven years to make some wasteland bases. Kinda pleased with how they came out. what'd you use for the rocks/raised bits?
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Jan 18, 2024 20:55
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Mederlock posted:what'd you use for the rocks/raised bits? Ripped up cork board. I'm using this video guide as my starting point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdy7D2V7I9Q
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Jan 18, 2024 21:54
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 How does this highlighting I've started on Magnus's shoulder look? It's Pink Horror over Sigvald Burgundy, possibly I just need a transition because of the models size? Should I try to mix a mid colour, or is the addition of lahmian medium to the pink called for?
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Jan 19, 2024 02:31
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That transition is pretty stark, so definitely mixing a midtone is the way to go. If should smoothen things up quite a lot by itself. If you want to smooth it out even further, you can then make a glaze from either your darkest or lightest colour, and smooth out the edges.
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Jan 19, 2024 06:59
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Starting to feel the diminishing returns as i keep working on this, despite some obviously unfinished parts that I didn't even start on.
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Jan 19, 2024 15:11
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If purple isn't going to be the final colour of them, paint the bases. Don't necessarily go to the point of texturing them, but get some colour on and you'll feel like you've made more jump forward in progress.
Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jan 19, 2024 |
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Jan 19, 2024 17:31
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poop chute posted:Because I started using [army painter warpaints] first and I have yet to find a good match for Greenskin army painter is retiring most of the warpaints hues and the color match on the ones they're keeping is apparently pretty variable. you might want to stock up a bit on anything you particularly love from AP warpaints before fanatic comes out.
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Jan 19, 2024 18:53
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Oh shoot, I better stock up on AP Gunmetal on the offchance it changes then!
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Jan 19, 2024 19:41
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 painted up some of emang's greater daemons, a bloodthirster, shalaxi and skarbrand. shalaxi and skarbrand need some finishing touches and then i need to do the bases and drench everything with blood effects, but i'm pleased so far. they're goddam massive too
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Jan 19, 2024 20:45
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Um I think you will find those are a Hematic Quenchseeker, Collector of Confidentiality, and Skar Bran the Flaked One.
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Jan 19, 2024 21:06
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I made my first attempt at airbrushing today. Just priming a bunch of little bases and a few models. I really need to look at some instructional videos because I have no idea when to stop spraying 
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Jan 20, 2024 01:05
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Kylaer posted:I made my first attempt at airbrushing today. Just priming a bunch of little bases and a few models. I really need to look at some instructional videos because I have no idea when to stop spraying Never. Stop. Spraying. Real answer: stop when you've coated it with your primer color. It's ok if you see a little of the model underneath because you don't need 100% coverage.
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Jan 20, 2024 01:29
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Kylaer posted:I made my first attempt at airbrushing today. Just priming a bunch of little bases and a few models. I really need to look at some instructional videos because I have no idea when to stop spraying The optimal case is that your paint is drying right as it hits your model, based on a combination of the paint priorities itself, pressure, quantity of paint, distance between the model and the end of the airbrush, ambient conditions, etc. It's a lot to experiment with, and the best way to do it is just keep painting. The upside is that means you should stop spraying when you have coverage and your model starts to look wet. There's a little leeway in there, but really seriously stop if you see paint pooling on the model at all - that's when you're going to get stuff you don't want happening.
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Jan 20, 2024 01:51
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Cease to Hope posted:army painter is retiring most of the warpaints hues and the color match on the ones they're keeping is apparently pretty variable. you might want to stock up a bit on anything you particularly love from AP warpaints before fanatic comes out. weeeeeeeelp. Worst case scenario, I figure out another green and just redo some armor, or just use the new color, but this still sucks.
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Jan 20, 2024 02:04
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Anyone know of decal dissolver solutions more aggressive than MicroSol?
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Jan 20, 2024 02:48
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You really shouldn't need one. Just put some on, wait until it's visibly dry, then do it again. For as many times as is needed.
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Jan 20, 2024 03:08
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Stephenls posted:Anyone know of decal dissolver solutions more aggressive than MicroSol? Tamiya Mark Fit Strong is about as hot as it gets.
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Jan 20, 2024 03:16
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Boy howdie you never forget your first time licking the brush after microset
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Jan 20, 2024 06:04
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Yeast posted:Boy howdie you never forget your first time licking the brush after microset I've never done that, and I always assumed that microset was just diluted white vinegar. How's it taste?
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Jan 20, 2024 08:42
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Bucnasti posted:I've never done that, and I always assumed that microset was just diluted white vinegar. How's it taste? methyl alcohol and possibly a bitterant
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Jan 20, 2024 08:52
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I must be in that rare subset of mini painters that never licks their brushes When painting, after getting some paint on the brush I just sort of drag the tip of it around on my palette, turning it as I do so, until it's formed back into a point. I think Duncan and others do a similar sort of thing when they do YouTube vids. That's one reason why the latest mini painting fad--namely, using one of those "push pop" silicone fidget toys as a palette--doesn't really work for me; while they're easy to clean and have a zillion "wells" for paint, they usually don't have enough of a flat surface on them anywhere for me to do the "drag and turn" tip technique.
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Jan 20, 2024 14:39
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Some of the ex GW guys (so Duncan, mainly) won’t show themselves licking the brush because they couldn’t show it on camera during GW tutorials, because the company didn’t want to be liable for some kid accidentally eating paint and getting sick and its habit at this point, particularly for someone like, again, Duncan, who basically just replicated the old GW format. Source, that interview with a former product designer that Peachy did
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Jan 20, 2024 15:04
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You're probably doing it right, but you're also missing out on a whole range of taste and texture, so I definitely wouldn't recommend anyone to not lick their brush
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Jan 20, 2024 15:05
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Micro set is acetic acid that has been slightly diluted. Vinegar contains acetic acid, so diluted vinegar could work as a decal setting solution but contains other chemicals that are probably not desired and might cause a slight yellowing or discoloration. Acetic acid is what gives vinegar the distinctive odor.
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Jan 20, 2024 15:40
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Bohemian Nights posted:You're probably doing it right, but you're also missing out on a whole range of taste and texture, so I definitely wouldn't recommend anyone to not lick their brush I've done the "accidentally swigged from mug of paint rinse water instead of the intended mug of coffee/tea" thing before, so I think I'm good 
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Jan 20, 2024 15:43
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I just use my fingers to "re-point" the brush tip before painting the next color? No idea why anyone would want paint breath.
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Jan 20, 2024 17:17
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Picked up a cheap airbrush and compressor for priming/basecoating, have used it a bit but still getting used to it. Can I just check; As I'm undercoating, very little paint is coming out, unless the trigger is actually moving, so to get decent coverage I'm having to rock the trigger back and forth. Is this because I didnt thin the paint enough or would there be another cause?
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Jan 20, 2024 17:48
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SiKboy posted:Picked up a cheap airbrush and compressor for priming/basecoating, have used it a bit but still getting used to it. Can I just check; As I'm undercoating, very little paint is coming out, unless the trigger is actually moving, so to get decent coverage I'm having to rock the trigger back and forth. Is this because I didnt thin the paint enough or would there be another cause? I believe most dual action airbrushes work by pressing down on the trigger to allow airflow and then pulling back to allow paint flow. When you pull back the airbrush trigger you should have consistent paint flow. Numerous airbrushes have a collet or locking device actually, like a backstop that you can set, to limit how far back you can pull the trigger and this is so you can figure out the ideal flow rate and lock it in. Your situation sounds like something is not functioning quite right. Are you thinning the paint sufficiently? I think that would be where I would start. If you are struggling with figuring out the dual action mechanism you can just shoot water out of it to practice. Edit to add: Sometimes paint will dry on the tip of the airbrush, this is called dry tip, and this can cause sputtering, blockages, impeded paint flow etc... Airbrush thinner will make the paint thinner, as the name suggests, allowing for easier flow, but sometimes it still dries relatively quickly on the needle. Flow improver tends to extend the drying time and helps prevent dry tip. So you can also add a little bit of flow improver to the mix instead of just thinner.
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Jan 20, 2024 18:14
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Yeast posted:Boy howdie you never forget your first time licking the brush after microset Just lmao if you aren’t dumping micro set on your chips.
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Jan 20, 2024 18:48
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To paraphrase the guy who was in charge of the GW paint line, just because it's non-toxic doesn't mean it's a good idea to ingest it. Just roll the brush in the crease of your hand instead.
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Jan 20, 2024 19:21
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I mix a little radium with all my paints so I know they are toxic, keeps it simple.
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