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shame on an IGA posted:if Caro hadn't become a multimillionaire yesterday. Discussion starts here: Wait what
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Jan 5, 2024 05:06
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:Wait what yeah he won his lawsuit against Syria https://www.millerchevalier.com/publication/miller-chevalier-wins-50-million-judgment-against-syria-behalf-imprisoned-american shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 5, 2024 |
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Jan 5, 2024 05:17
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I'm pretty sure those big plasma/laser/waterjet cutters are designed so that they can cut their own grates. That is, you can load a piece of steel and it'll cut out new grating bars. (and if not, they should, imo)
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Jan 5, 2024 05:27
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shame on an IGA posted:yeah he won his lawsuit against Syria oh, okay, he was awarded 50 million dollars in a judgment against the syrian government. so he's a multimillionaire in the sense that the tsai ing-wen is the president of china. ryanrs posted:I'm pretty sure those big plasma/laser/waterjet cutters are designed so that they can cut their own grates. That is, you can load a piece of steel and it'll cut out new grating bars. that is indeed how it works. and for some reason, this fact is making a poster in the osha thread really mad.
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Jan 5, 2024 06:52
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Sagebrush posted:oh, okay, he was awarded 50 million dollars in a judgment against the syrian government. so he's a multimillionaire in the sense that the tsai ing-wen is the president of china. It's paid for by the US Fund for people harmed by Terrorism, which is funded by sanctions seizures. It's probably gonna get paid.
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Jan 5, 2024 07:06
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I still can't handle how mind blowing it was to discover he was alive. Then got out. And now this.
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Jan 7, 2024 21:14
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What is a reasonably quick way to de-zinc some stuff that's zinc plated. I'd prefer not to grind if I can help it. Will strong vinegar do the job? Or something stronger like muriatic acid? I don't need it to happen instantaneously, but don't want to wait a week for it. I'm looking to weld some chain and also nuts and bolts that are yellow zinc plated.
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Jan 8, 2024 16:13
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Vinegar will work and soak times are in the hours. Muriatic acid will work much faster depending on concentration/dilution and soak times could be just a few minutes.
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Jan 8, 2024 17:46
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Wandering Orange posted:Vinegar will work and soak times are in the hours. Muriatic acid will work much faster depending on concentration/dilution and soak times could be just a few minutes. How is it using muriatic acid? I've got some, but I'm reluctant to use it on anything because I keep hearing it can get into cracks, pinholes, pores and cause cause pitting corrosion. Is this something to worry about for like, removing mill scale from fresh plate stock, or just for work pieces that are cracked or in rough condition?
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Jan 8, 2024 21:18
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The biggest issues with muriatic is the fumes and the flash rusting afterwards but other than that it's fine to use if you take normal safety precautions for chemical use. Thick gloves, glasses (goggles), outdoors, etc. You'll want to dilute the acid to start with so if it's 32% HCl then add one part acid to 3 or 4 parts water in your dip container and see how that goes - if it's too vigorous then carefully add another part or two of water. Start with one or two pieces of metal at time so you can get an idea of the time it takes, you can pull the parts out to look for color & texture change. Wash the parts with a baking soda solution right after they come out of the dip and you may want to brush the parts in the wash for stuff like the nuts & bolts. I've done this with raw stock and simple brackets - dock pipes and fittings - so that we could repair or modify stuff and threads are a pain, internal threads even worse. You definitely do not want to have any acid hanging around in a little pocket anywhere when you start welding. After you're done, neutralize the acid dip with your soda wash and dilute as necessary. There's no obvious way to know when it's neutral pH besides watching for the acid-base reaction to stop so unless you have some pH test paper, strips, or a pen tester then just err on the side of dilution with water. Oh and don't store the muriatic acid container near your tools, tool carts, cars, etc. If the bottle leaks or vents then the fumes will rust anything nearby very easily. There are alternatives between vinegar (acetic acid) and muriatic that work to varying degrees such as citric acid or phosphoric acid. Neither are as powerful as muriatic but both are easier to handle, clean up, and neutralize since there's no chlorine involved. Chlorine is the problem you hear about with the pitting corrosion concern.
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Jan 9, 2024 01:41
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Wandering Orange posted:The biggest issues with muriatic is the fumes and the flash rusting afterwards but other than that it's fine to use if you take normal safety precautions for chemical use. Thick gloves, glasses (goggles), outdoors, etc. You'll want to dilute the acid to start with so if it's 32% HCl then add one part acid to 3 or 4 parts water in your dip container and see how that goes - if it's too vigorous then carefully add another part or two of water. Start with one or two pieces of metal at time so you can get an idea of the time it takes, you can pull the parts out to look for color & texture change. Wash the parts with a baking soda solution right after they come out of the dip and you may want to brush the parts in the wash for stuff like the nuts & bolts. I've done this with raw stock and simple brackets - dock pipes and fittings - so that we could repair or modify stuff and threads are a pain, internal threads even worse. You definitely do not want to have any acid hanging around in a little pocket anywhere when you start welding. OK, that makes sense. I use phosphoric acid since it's cheap and effective, and it neutralizes into a good cleaning agent. The part about acid getting into little pockets or whatnot is what I'm worried about. I guess it's a total no-go with cheap cast iron then? I didn't realize it vents chlorine gas, gonna move the bottle outside somewhere
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Jan 9, 2024 04:35
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HolHorsejob posted:How is it using muriatic acid? I've got some, but I'm reluctant to use it on anything because I keep hearing it can get into cracks, pinholes, pores and cause cause pitting corrosion. I have a leaky 93% sulfuric pump at work, HCL ain't even no thang man, Frankie Say: posted:relaaax
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Jan 9, 2024 04:42
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I spent many of the wee hours sunday morning having stress dreams about my job but none of it has ever been as terrifying as my dentist using HF jello inside my face
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Jan 9, 2024 04:48
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I did a half day blacksmithing class this past weekend, made a lopsided spoon. It was fun!
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Jan 10, 2024 13:58
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How would one tell what sort of steel they have? Its a small diameter piece of round bar I'd like to say is roughly 1/8" in diameter. Except the thing its on was made in Spain, so its probably a metric equivalent diameter like 3mm or something and its maybe 2 1/2 - 3" long.
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Jan 13, 2024 03:46
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wesleywillis posted:How would one tell what sort of steel they have? Point your x-ray fluorescence gun at it and scan it like a tricorder. It'll read out the elemental composition of the alloy. Then, once you know the composition, you should be able to do hardness testing, etc, and get an idea of the heat treatment that was used. You could section it and look at the grain shape to see if it was forged, etc, etc. How much detail do you really want to know about this piece of steel, and why?
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Jan 13, 2024 04:05
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wesleywillis posted:How would one tell what sort of steel they have? Spark test gets you in the neighborhood for steel. Doesn't work if it's a stainless or super alloy. 
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Jan 13, 2024 04:05
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ryanrs posted:Point your x-ray fluorescence gun at it and scan it like a tricorder. It'll read out the elemental composition of the alloy. Its the rod that the cocking levers on a side by side shotgun pivot on. Its 60+ years old, may have to be at least partly drilled out in order to remove the remainder and the gunsmith that I was hoping (and paying) to deal with it died yesterday so I'm not sure what to do. There are very few legit gunsmiths in Canada and he was one of them. I want to try and get close to the same type of steel so that it hopefully lasts another 60+ years. It needs to be replaced because it is bent, worn or somehow damaged inside the action in an area inaccessible and I can't cock that particular barrel as I believe that the damage is preventing the cocking lever from moving as far as it needs to move for the hammer to engage the sear. I've tried to tap it out with a punch but was unsuccessful hence my wish to drill or have it drilled out. I'm not confident I can do it myself but I might try because what do I have to lose besides loving up a gun thats way older than me rendering it more worthless than it currently is. Canadian gun laws are such that taking it to a regular machine shop is probably out of the question.
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Jan 13, 2024 04:21
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That kind of info--that it's from a 60 year old Spanish side-by-side shotgun--is exactly the sort of info that you'd need to find a reasonably similar steel pin today. TFR might be a better place to ask, though.
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Jan 13, 2024 04:43
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ryanrs posted:That kind of info--that it's from a 60 year old Spanish side-by-side shotgun--is exactly the sort of info that you'd need to find a reasonably similar steel pin today. I'll probably end up asking on shotgun world, but yeah, I figured the general metallurgy knowledge here might tell me how to figure it out. Yooper's post (thanks Yooper) might work but I'd need to get the piece out first. Enough of it that I can put it on a grinder. Though I wonder what sort of grinder would be appropriate. Flap disc on an angle grinder? Stone from a bench grinder?
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Jan 13, 2024 04:52
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wesleywillis posted:I'll probably end up asking on shotgun world, but yeah, I figured the general metallurgy knowledge here might tell me how to figure it out. For a part like that a bench grinder. I'd bet it is 4140, or whatever the DIN equivalent is. That part is likely heat treated as well. Make sure if you do the spark test you don't get it super-hot otherwise you'll pull out the hardness and the gunsmith won't know what it should be.
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Jan 13, 2024 12:29
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Yooper posted:4140, or whatever the DIN equivalent is. 1.7225, though it may very well also be some flavor of silver steel/drill rod like 1.2210.
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Jan 13, 2024 18:36
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Is all 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" steel square tubing "telescoping" or do I need to special order it
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Jan 18, 2024 06:12
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Hadlock posted:Is all 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" steel square tubing "telescoping" or do I need to special order it Kinda depends on what you order, there is what they call "ornamental" tubing that is welded, and there is extruded, etc. But, in my experience, you just want the tube to be smaller than the I.D. of what it slides into, and you will rely on some sort of Delrin or Teflon fabricated sliders that make actual contact between the tubes. Really, it kinda depends on what application you are using with regard to weight, ease of movement, and if aesthetics matter.
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Jan 18, 2024 13:07
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Hadlock posted:Is all 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" steel square tubing "telescoping" or do I need to special order it I've dealt in a lot of square tube over the years and it typically has a raised ridge along the inside that makes it somewhat difficult to have one piece inside the other unless there is a fairly large (not that large, but enough to rattle about) size difference. Same with round tube. Unless that round tube is d.o.m. E: the ridge is where they weld it E2: so yeah you'd probably need to order it
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Jan 18, 2024 18:32
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wesleywillis posted:E2: so yeah you'd probably need to order it Ugh, ok Wonderllama posted:Really, it kinda depends on what application you are using with regard to weight, ease of movement, and if aesthetics matter. This would be a removable piece of steel that slides into another (and then bolts into place) to add stability, like you might see on a rental engine hoist with telescopic legs. Pretty crude application that slides in and out maybe two or three times a year. Aesthetics do not matter it's going to be painted black 3" off the ground and probably covered in metal shavings
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Jan 18, 2024 19:14
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So I haven't done much in the way of gunsmithing but I've been a little bit gun-adjacent for a while and I do understand the basics of iron metallurgy. For that pin, it isn't really necessary to replace it with an identical steel unless you are attempting to do some kind of historically-accurate restoration at an incredibly anal level. The important thing is that you want the pin to be strong and hard, so that it doesn't bend under pressure. The cocking levers are pivoting on the rod so it's subject to some wear, e.g. it should be hard too. And given its age, it was unlikely to have been originally engineered for some exotic alloy. I would guess that it's just a rod made of high carbon or stainless steel that has been quenched & very lightly tempered, and I would bet that any gunsmith or machinist can replace it with a rod of the right diameter of similar material and you'll be fine. I assume it's press fit and not peened or threaded, so the key thing will be to get a very accurate measurement of the diameter, and to press it out without damaging the hole so you can press in the replacement easily and snugly.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:20
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Hadlock posted:Ugh, ok It's probably fine if you leave some clearance between the tubes. I'd hazard a guess a 1/16 would be fine and 1/8 would be safe but don't have any tube on hand to check. Would just need to spec the right gauge of your outer tube, or go down a size on the inner stuff. Pretty sure you can get plastic end caps that'll have a square hole in them to reduce rattle when sliding in and out, but you'll want to bolt them in place before loading like you said you plan to do.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:38
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If I want a dial indicator for under $100 what should I be looking at. We finally unpacked everything and I'm starting to outfit the garage. For starters I want to inspect what the hell is going on with concentricity of my drill press, and I'm probably going to haul home a metal lathe from Craigslist some time this summer. I'd rather skip the "buy some random $35 garbage off Amazon, and then immediately upgrade" step, but if (when) I blow it up I don't want to cry about it I apparently inherited a 0.0001 federal brand dial indicator ($250 new?) but feels like the lube has gummed up after 40-60 years and will need a rebuild and that's not happening this year Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jan 19, 2024 |
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Jan 19, 2024 08:25
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Hit it with a hair dryer for 10 or 15 minutes and see what happens. It's worked for me in quite a few situations.
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Jan 19, 2024 09:00
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Hadlock posted:If I want a dial indicator for under $100 what should I be looking at. We finally unpacked everything and I'm starting to outfit the garage. For starters I want to inspect what the hell is going on with concentricity of my drill press, and I'm probably going to haul home a metal lathe from Craigslist some time this summer. I'd rather skip the "buy some random $35 garbage off Amazon, and then immediately upgrade" step, but if (when) I blow it up I don't want to cry about it We use Fowler for general purpose dial indicators on the floor. Unless it's in a really nasty spot, then we use SPI as they wear out in the grinding grit. For stuff like tuning spindles we have Mitutoyo and Starrett, but neither are used by production and strictly engineering/maintenance. My go-to for stuck indicators is a generous application of WD40. I recently picked up some Lucas gun oil for keeping them lubed and am quite pleased with how well it flows.
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Jan 19, 2024 13:10
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Mitutoyo's with imperial graduation seem to be around the 100 euro mark, and would be a solid choice for a one and done purchase.
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Jan 19, 2024 16:22
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Hi thread, So I think I want to get into furniture making, as a complete novice, and it'd be really neat to eventually be able to produce something like this: https://www.structube.com/en_ca/lar...1saAin2EALw_wcB I'd like to take a metalworking course, but I'm not sure exactly what skills I need to learn. My guess from just looking at that stool I'd need to know how to bend or roll metal bars and weld them together - basically what should I be looking for in a course if this is my goal? Thanks!
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Jan 19, 2024 19:14
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welding and/or fabrication if available, welding is much like sewing in that people with no exposure to it think the mechanical act of stitching pieces together is the hard part when in reality the deep black arts are all in holding them where they need to be while you do that and cutting them out in the first place
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jan 19, 2024 |
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Jan 19, 2024 19:16
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Also not putting so much heat into what you're welding that it corkscrew as soon as you remove said hold downs.
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Jan 19, 2024 21:09
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That looks like an achievable goal. I'm not an expert by any means but probably could do this with a minimum number of tools Not sure about the wood (band saw and lathe?) but you're probably looking at a $180 harbor freight fab table* and a $120 benchtop bender, and 4-12 x $6 right angle magnets. Probably need to make a jig to weld the plates to the hairpin legs at a specific angle. And a way to cut your hairpin leg rod stock to a specific length. *Probably a bad idea to buy a light duty fab table if you want to build more than 50 of these, but the next step up costs like 10x as much
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Jan 19, 2024 21:46
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ryanrs posted:Huot 3 Drawer Drill Bit Dispenser. So I ordered this and pretty much got 100% of the utility I needed out of it. I thought the slides were slightly junky but whatever it does the thing and slides on a drill drawer aren't critical. Kind of crappy for a $100 purchase even if it was made in the USA  About a week ago I decided to get the 33/64 - 1" drill drawer DLC and noticed Vevor sold a clone for $55 and decided to pull the trigger. Wow this is actually a better overall product, tighter tolerances, and the drawer slides don't rattle or make any scraping noises. The drawer slides are easily two quality tiers higher. Not sure how I should feel about this
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Jan 23, 2024 00:12
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Vevor make pretty decent kit, or they put their name on alright stuff at least. Luckily we Americans are just as capable of making overpriced garbage as anyone in any country 
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Jan 23, 2024 00:28
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If it's better and cheaper, link it. $50 Vevor drill drawers. (and buy it before they decide to make it cheaper and downgrade the materials)
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Jan 23, 2024 01:02
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Here's the DLC I ordered, specifically https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0997T7185 The only thing this is missing is the small divots on the corners of the top to keep it from sliding around when stacked. But I'm putting this in a dedicated mobile tool rack so that's not much of an issue for me
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Jan 23, 2024 01:35
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