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No pics at the moment, but: I've mentioned before that, in an effort to avoid the reactivation issues with the Army Painter Speedpaints I have (the 1.0 version, I bought the starter box a good while back), I tried a 1:1 mix with Vallejo's Xpress Color Medium. I hadn't actually noticed any reactivation issues with that mix, but I'd also been doing it on very small areas like faces, hair, etc. Today, I can confirm that there's little or no noticeable reactivation with that mix. I painted up a figure for Marvel Crisis Protocol, specifically the villain called Rhino, whose rhino suit is basically gray all over. The gray mix I'd painted him with looked a little too light, so I decided what the hell and used some Speedpaint Gravelord Gray and mixed that with the Xpress Color medium. I brushed that all over the model, let it sit for about 20-30 mins or so (basically until it was visibly dry), then painted in his face using some VMC Pale Sand and then some Guilliman Flesh Contrast. No reactivation there. I painted the horns on his head and the "toes" on his feet with some AP Skeleton Bone and then a wash of AP Light Tone. Again, no reactivation there. The big test was today. I let him sit for a few more hours while I went to bed, then gloss coated him using a big brush, as I wanted to see if the Gravelord Gray would reactivate that way; by dipping the brush back into the gloss varnish, if the Speedpaint had reactivated, it'd contaminate the gloss varnish on the palette. Happy to report that there was no reactivation, or at least no significant reactivation that I could see, certainly not enough to contaminate the gloss varnish in my palette well. Figured I'd pass this along, in case anyone else has some of the original AP Speedpaints, and had just shoved them in a desk drawer or whatever (like I had) because they didn't want to deal with the reactivation issue. Get a bottle of the Vallejo Xpress Color medium, do a 1:1 mix (or more; if in doubt, err on the side of adding more medium and do multiple coats) and that should resolve the problem without needing to replace them.
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Jan 26, 2024 18:13
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wizard, with ghost knives  
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Jan 26, 2024 18:38
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Nebalebadingdong posted:wizard, with ghost knives sick af
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Jan 26, 2024 18:40
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That's a really fun mini. Frostgrave?
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Jan 26, 2024 18:50
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Bohemian Nights posted:That's a really fun mini. Frostgrave? yah, all the parts are from the wizard kits
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Jan 26, 2024 19:44
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Jonny Nox posted:
I've had luck with generic hobby sites that aren't focused on wargaming when I'm trying to find Vallejo stuff that is otherwise scarce. I've ordered some paint from this place and it turned out OK. https://www.hobbylinc.com/vallejo-heavy-wamgrey-x-opaque-17ml-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-72148
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Jan 26, 2024 19:53
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Technically for Kings of War, but here's a Generic Undead Egyptian King to be used in whatever game system one chooses.
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Jan 26, 2024 20:47
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Nebalebadingdong posted:yah, all the parts are from the wizard kits Wait, it's a kitbash too? You skilled devil.
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Jan 26, 2024 20:53
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I was going to buy that $100 auto paint mixer, but then I just tried using my neck massager for the same purpose. It seems to work well?
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Jan 26, 2024 21:57
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Just finished the Jedi Hunters box from Star Wars: Shatterpoint: I'd like to spend more time on the faces but I'm pretty pleased how the black armor and clothes turned out, which I don't have a lot of experience doing.
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Jan 27, 2024 01:25
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Cardboard Fox posted:I was going to buy that $100 auto paint mixer, but then I just tried using my "neck massager" for the same purpose. It seems to work well? Don't see why not, other than convenience. Love my little mixer, especially because I paint in bursts between big gaps in hobby time
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Jan 27, 2024 01:40
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There's nothing weird about it, I'm just mixing my paints. Please close the door.
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Jan 27, 2024 01:58
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Used Army Painter Dark Town dip on The Cathedral of Our Lady of Disposable income, something weird happened on the third floor when I applied matte varnish. It got much splochier.   Thankfully ruined church terrain is forgiving
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Jan 27, 2024 03:02
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War and Pieces posted:Used Army Painter Dark Town dip on The Cathedral of Our Lady of Disposable income, something weird happened on the third floor when I applied matte varnish. It got much splochier. That piece looks good, and your red text is just amazing.
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Jan 27, 2024 03:36
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Goons, I need your input and feedback on this mini that I just finished blocking in the base layer. I'm not really sure where to take it from here, this is the first mini I've painted in about 2 years and I've only painted a handful ever.    I know the buzzwords like layering, dry brushing, washes, etc but I'm not sure which way to take it or what I need to improve on Thanks for your input 
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Jan 27, 2024 09:18
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Our humidity is basically 0% here, the spray cans primes are good to go in like 5 minutes.
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Jan 27, 2024 17:30
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I might actually get to play my copy of Frosthaven, so I've begun painting the starting classes The Drifter was first up 
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Jan 27, 2024 19:07
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Decided to start out the year trying to finally learn how to layer and highlight after not really enjoying contrast paints as much as I did when I began. The amount of control I feel I lose when applying them is just frustrating. So why not watch some Vince Venturella videos and copy his process. It should be so easy. First step was to buy some new paints as my Citadel color line was slowly starting to dry out. I was going to wait for that Fanatic line to come out, but I felt that dropping $200 on paints to be too much. I instead settled on the Vallejo Game Color Intro line for $30. The line only comes with 16 paints, but I've seen pro painters mix to get the color they want so that should be easy.... My first bit of frustration came when the paints arrived and I realized just how much you need to shake them. The base coat took like 5 attempts to finally get smooth, and they kept separating on my wet pallet. It took me a few minutes of good shaking to finally get them to settle down. I also bought some skinny Orcs to paint since I think green skin should be the easiest to learn layering on, and the Vallejo intro set comes with a dark green and light green paint. I'll just add some white whenever I need to go brighter in color, sounds easy. Well....  The start was rough. The dark green base is wayyy too dark, and layering on paint after the base color makes it look really bad. The light brown color I used for the leather has the opposite problem, it is way too light. It's almost like there's a reason beginner painters have 3-5 colors within each base that makes this easier. After painting something that looks like it came out of a 90s McDonalds happy meal, I decided that maybe I should slow down and start smaller. Instead of using dark green as a base, I will use light green instead. I can mix little bits of yellow into the light green and slowly transition the layers as I go up in color.    That looks much better to me and more defined. I tapped the color on the raised edges instead of spreading it. When I went up in brightness I did it by adding very small increments of bright yellow. I am also really starting to enjoy making my own washes instead of using my usual Nuln Oil and Sepapim for everything. Instead, I used that dark green color (that previously was way to dark as a base) with a bunch of water to add shadows to the areas between the fingers and other curves. It's surprisingly effective and really easy to do. Here's the current foot so far:  It took about an hour to do so at this rate it should be done in a month. The next steps are to create a much darker base color for all that leather. (Also, they don't have any fingernails on the boxart and its really freaking me out.)
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Jan 27, 2024 19:38
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Ice troll. The snow effect will look a little less slushy when it sets more but I was chuffed enough with how it turned out I wanted to share it straight away.
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Jan 28, 2024 03:52
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I’m in the preliminary phase of my next project, my Death Guard Kill Team (pics of my 90% Tau team soon), using this Fauxhammer guide, which requires only a couple new paints but also some AK Interactive Worn Effects fluid. I can get the AK Heavy Chipping on Amazon, is there any real difference? Some light research suggests Worn is kind of hard to remove compared to Heavy, but does anyone have experience with them?
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Jan 28, 2024 13:54
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Did some painting. A Gorilla Monster from Dragon Trappers Lodge. I've been calling him "Forewarned".  Some Malifaux Raptors. Recently got an airbrush, so tried to lay down the base coats on these with it. Thought I did okay at the time, but in the cold light of day not so much, redid the brown with a brush, a bit of drybrushing later and I'm at least okay with them. Remembered the old wisdom "If the model kind of sucks, go absolute ham on the base as a distraction". I need more practise with the airbrush, get a better feel for it.  These get added to a crew I painted about 2 years ago, and I was super glad I'd written down the exact recipe I was using for the bases so they (near as dammit) match. Crew in question; 
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Jan 28, 2024 16:51
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"Paint bravely" sounds like such a silly phrase, but it also speaks to me so clearly. Because instead of being brave and painting, I ended up with two big boxes of orks. And now there's twenty unpainted Boyz sitting and looking at me.
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Jan 28, 2024 17:46
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Professor Shark posted:I’m in the preliminary phase of my next project, my Death Guard Kill Team (pics of my 90% Tau team soon), using this Fauxhammer guide, which requires only a couple new paints but also some AK Interactive Worn Effects fluid. Chipping media are fully fungible, and you can get whatever effect you want with hairspray and a brush.
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Jan 28, 2024 18:37
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Mederlock posted:Goons, I need your input and feedback on this mini that I just finished blocking in the base layer. I'm not really sure where to take it from here, this is the first mini I've painted in about 2 years and I've only painted a handful ever. no one commented on this but quite frankly it owns. if you want to push it further, one of the easiest things to do would be to apply a sepia wash (the citadel one is called Seraphim Sepia afaik) to the book, paying particular attention to the gutter between the open pages and the lines that show the edges of the pages on the side. then go over the open pages again with the off white, leaving the shade in the middle. I would also apply a pin wash (basically a targeted wash rather than all over) of black wash (eg: nuln oil) in thin lines where the coat meets the feathers to add a little more depth by suggesting shadow, but tbh that is just a habit of mine.
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Jan 28, 2024 18:43
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grassy gnoll posted:Chipping media are fully fungible, and you can get whatever effect you want with hairspray and a brush. Same but a dark brown like rhinox hide and a sponge, or a dark metal like leadbelcher then a bright metal like runefang
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Jan 28, 2024 18:58
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:no one commented on this but quite frankly it owns. Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it a lot! Pin washing the small seams and transitions, that's a great idea. I'm also going to scribble on some vague sharp lines onto the pages to insinuate writing, but I have a bunch of brown and black washes from vallejo and army painter so I'll definitely do that! I'd like to do something else to the feathers too but I'm not sure what. Looking at pictures of white birds, it seems there's some faint blue-grey shading in shadowed areas from diffuse light, so I'm not sure if I should try my hand at a faint blue-white glaze/wash in the areas that should be shaded as per the pics I took after I zenithal primed it, and maybe reinforce the white at the tips of the feathers/outside areas that would be in brighter light. Do I sound like I'm heading in the right direction with that, or should I maybe just leave well enough alone and only do a a little edge highlighting with some more white and finish with a satin varnish? e: btw whoever brought up Pro-acryl Bold Titanium White,  . I happened to pick up the last bottle at the LGS when I was picking up some basing bits and milliput and it's so loving good. Compared to the liquitex pro soft body acrylic titanium white I was using, it's so gotte-danged opaque and smooth! It really let me sharpen up transitions between the white and other colours so well. Thanks for that tip!
Mederlock fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jan 28, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 20:58
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Spanish Manlove posted:Same but a dark brown like rhinox hide and a sponge, or a dark metal like leadbelcher then a bright metal like runefang Honestly, this is probably a better idea for any miniature. Chipping medium is for big objects like vehicles and scenery, but if you're super-determined to do everything via your airbrush, I guess you could do it for your army men. You do get a lot more control out of chipping with a sponge or brush than you do with a chipping medium, for what that may be worth. I'm not sure the person who wrote the Fauxhammer article knows what chipped paint looks like.
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Jan 28, 2024 21:17
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I usually do chipping with Rhinox and sponge but really liked the effect they got out of the should pads, in addition to the Rhinox/ Mournfang mix.
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Jan 28, 2024 21:30
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Mederlock posted:Goons, I need your input and feedback on this mini that I just finished blocking in the base layer. I'm not really sure where to take it from here, this is the first mini I've painted in about 2 years and I've only painted a handful ever. This model is super cute and I love the colors you picked for it. Seconding Gravitas’s wash advice. You can build up lighter colors with thin layers on the parts you want to highlight and/or darker colors on your shadow bits. I struggle to get smooth blends this way so I add a mid-tone and then drybrush the lightest color over the top, and then do a wash. Either method should give a similar depth of color.
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Jan 28, 2024 21:51
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Mederlock posted:Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it a lot! Pin washing the small seams and transitions, that's a great idea. I'm also going to scribble on some vague sharp lines onto the pages to insinuate writing, but I have a bunch of brown and black washes from vallejo and army painter so I'll definitely do that! Cheat mode for squiggles to represent writing; Quick layer of varnish over the book, then use a fine liner pen. I usually do a vaguely recognisable illuminated capital (well, a really big capital letter at least) then squiggles on the page. The fineliner can also be used to draw pupils in eyes if I'm feeling fancy enough to do that. i think go for a light blue-grey wash/glaze in the recesses, it'll bring more definition. The feathers look textured enough that a careful drybrush should bring most of the highlights back up afterwards. I think I'd either make a wash from whatever spacewolf grey you have ("lupin grey" "wolf blue", whatever. Every paint brand has a "this is the spacewolf armour colour" paint, its a light bluish grey.) or slap a white contrast-type paint on it, let it do its thing, then bring back the highlights.
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Jan 28, 2024 21:57
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SiKboy posted:Every paint brand has a "this is the spacewolf armour colour" paint, its a light bluish grey.) or slap a white contrast-type paint on it, let it do its thing, then bring back the highlights. The spacewolf grey contrast is pretty heavy tbh, if you're going that route I'd suggest thinning it with some medium.
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Jan 28, 2024 21:59
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:The spacewolf grey contrast is pretty heavy tbh, if you're going that route I'd suggest thinning it with some medium. Oh, for clarity; Either thin down regular space wolf grey acrylic paint, or, and this is a seperate suggestion, use a WHITE contrast paint (or speedpaint, whatever), I think the GW one is apocathary white. It'd shade the recesses much the same as using a blue-grey wash, but more towards the grey than blue. Still a decent shade for white.
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Jan 28, 2024 22:03
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My experience with chipping medium is that it's temperamental and only for large models. Sponge or brush are going to look way better for light wear or on small models. Chipping medium is when you want great big chunks and gouges in the paint.
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Jan 28, 2024 23:36
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For weathering I'd look towards scale model hobbyists stuff like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM
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Jan 28, 2024 23:47
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I think I'm done with army painting, just going to leave all my stuff in black and white. It's too stressful to try and paint stuff because "it needs to be painted". Going to try painting stuff for practice, or "fun", mainly for the sake of it instead of forcing myself to do it for some other reason and feeling like I have to.
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Jan 29, 2024 04:08
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I only paint because I think its fun and have never played any of the Warhammer tabletop games. Is it a rule that armies have to be painted? If not, is there community pressure to have your army look good, or is there some "meta" that allows you to play better if you have a better painted army (that would be hilarious)?
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Jan 29, 2024 04:38
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Cardboard Fox posted:I only paint because I think its fun and have never played any of the Warhammer tabletop games. Is it a rule that armies have to be painted? If not, is there community pressure to have your army look good, or is there some "meta" that allows you to play better if you have a better painted army (that would be hilarious)? Officially each player gets 10 VP for having a painted army. You obviously don't need to take this into account if you're playing games for fun or whatever but ostensibly the rule exists for big gatherings like tournaments to have every table look cool rather than a pile of grey going at each other.
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Jan 29, 2024 04:44
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That’s a real can of worms question, and hobbyists fall at each end of the spectrum and everywhere in between
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Jan 29, 2024 08:21
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Cardboard Fox posted:I only paint because I think its fun and have never played any of the Warhammer tabletop games. Is it a rule that armies have to be painted? If not, is there community pressure to have your army look good, or is there some "meta" that allows you to play better if you have a better painted army (that would be hilarious)? I don't play "official" games so idc about it, but I can imagine if you both show up with a primed grey army it makes playing harder. Some tournaments have a rule in place your army has to be painted, I think.
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Jan 29, 2024 09:55
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| # ? May 22, 2024 09:57 |
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Lostconfused posted:"Paint bravely" sounds like such a silly phrase, but it also speaks to me so clearly. Because instead of being brave and painting, I ended up with two big boxes of orks. And now there's twenty unpainted Boyz sitting and looking at me. "Pile of shame" is aptly named. I tend to get carried away and buy too much war bands so my pipeline is enormous; I also paint really slow which makes it worse. I'm trying to do better so I made a priority list to help me get stuff that I'll actively use done. Like completely finishing my kruleboyz and allies war band for Warcry, and the Scales of Talaxis terrain set. It helps that I paint as a hobby in itself, not just to get stuff on the table.
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Jan 29, 2024 10:01
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