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Saturday was finally The Day. Timing belt with tensioners and pulleys, and water pump. I've been dreading this because it's way above my familiarity and skill level, but my fiancee and I were determined to tackle it. Deconstruction started simply enough, remove wheel and fender liner to access crank pulley. The bolt didn't fight much and was quick clean when it came out:  We noted what we had to unbolt to see how it would go back together - p/s reservoir, throttle linkage, vacuum pump. I was pleasantly surprised at how pliable the vacuum lines were, they were super easy to manipulate:  Much more room for activities. That engine mount is coming out next, with the oil pan resting on a block of wood and lifted by a jack under the car:  Mount removed, upper timing cover removed, access to the belt:  Belt removed. Water pump pulley looking a tiny bit worn but otherwise looks really good in there. We inspected the belt after we took it off, and of course it looked nearly perfect, making today's job almost unnecessary. But it was a small price to pay for piece of mind. (There is no inspection access on the 2VZ):  Water pump on. Old one was in really good shape. Was disappointed in the lack of dick-shape for the gasket though:  This is where I was internally panicking. I've never touched a timing system and we didn't have the special service tool to hold the cams (I work at a Toyota dealer). Apparently the method of "don't touch them and it'll be fine" worked in our case. Had a tech friend of ours help us with the belt. Be careful of Continental timing belts - the markings are backwards!  The hardest part of the job was honestly getting the accessory belts back on and tightened. I'm still not sure they're tight enough, I'll get them checked out this week. This is the reason for the job:  Yeah it's only been 36k miles, but 20 years on any belt can be rough, so better safe than sorry. Obligatory box of old parts:  This was so helpful. $6 box from Harbour Freight that we used to hold all the hardware. We definitely learned from our experience with the Pontiac GTP, keep all your hardware straight:  I'm 98% sure I've located my coolant leak as well, which was actually worse after we finished the job. I think it's from where this metal pipe comes out of the thermostat housing, which probably got disturbed a bit when we were taking the thermostat out to replace the gasket:  The next project will be valve cover gaskets and spark plugs. I've got all the parts for it, just need the time. Edit: after further thought, I definitely forgot to replace an oring in that red circle. I guess I know what my actual next project is. 
Night Danger Moose fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jan 22, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 01:57
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Valt posted:I recently got a new colorado, so I no longer care that its not very nice on the highway. Its really pretty rare that I would make a long trip in the C10. I might change the rear gears just because it may just be undriveable with that much torque and that ratio. Mine is a drag and drive build. So I can drive it a couple hundred miles, jack it up, flip the gears, and then put the radials on it and go. It would also give me some flexibility in going 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile events. The only issue is that a 1000 HP capable quick change is about $3300. I can build a ford 9" for about half that. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jan 22, 2024 |
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Jan 22, 2024 03:44
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Darchangel posted:....no. The white stripe tires are actually what it came with originally. They did this to make it look like the car had something bigger than a 13" rim since it brings the perspective outward. I took it to a concours d'lemons and one of the judges was actually the lead designer from GM in the 2000's (not making that up). He is the one who explained to me why they used white stripe tires; I won an award (slightly better than a gokart) with the car.
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Jan 22, 2024 13:14
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Valt posted:I finally finished my 383 put together. Its a old school 4 bolt main 350 block with a speedmaster stroke kit in it. It also has camel hump heads on it with new springs and guide plates for roller rockers. Motor has a mild cam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-212-2 and it has a old school holley single plane and a double pumper on top. The flat tappet cam survived the 15 minute break in and after we fought a bunch of little problems but once we got it sorted out it started repeating numbers. It was making 351 hp and 440 ft/lbs, it was also making 400+ ft/lbs at 3000 rpm so its basically ready to party at all times! Nice! Valt posted:With 4:10 rear gears and a muncie 4 speed. I think thats the only thing this is going to do lol. NICE! I'm not sure when, but I hope to be posting "Dad's '55 Chevy" content before too long. I'd really like to get that old thing going again, and drive it mostly as-is, "as-is" being "literally has sat in a field/backyard for 40 years". Obviously going to be Vice-grip Garage/Junkyard Digs level "restoration" happening before it can even move, but I'm up for it. Eventually it's get a full mechanical once over, as I intend to drive the thing. How many ratty '55s do you see around? Well, I'll have one. Said '55 *also* has 4.10s and a Muncie (M-20.) quote="Valt" post="537313702"] I recently got a new colorado, so I no longer care that its not very nice on the highway. Its really pretty rare that I would make a long trip in the C10. I might change the rear gears just because it may just be undriveable with that much torque and that ratio.  [/quote] Whoa. A non-Harley chopper!
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Jan 22, 2024 21:08
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chrisgt posted:The white stripe tires are actually what it came with originally. They did this to make it look like the car had something bigger than a 13" rim since it brings the perspective outward. I believe it, though I don't think the effect works as well with thin white stripes as opposed to full on wide-whites. "Slightly better than a gokart" is a good descriptor of the Geo/Chevy Metro, and the Festiva as well.
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Jan 22, 2024 21:09
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I installed new headlight bulbs in my 06 Prius the other day. What the gently caress. I've never cursed doing such a menial job in my life. There's zero room, the bulb isn't just a quarter turn style, there's a rubber boot, a metal clip and you have to do it blind with a child size hand. If I could meet the person who designed this I would run them over at 5mph with said Prius repeatedly until the battery runs out. I've changed alternators, serpentine belts, thermostats, brake calipers, suspension, rebuilt engines in lots of different vehicles. I've never cursed this much per minute of any car project. If those things die I'm going to buy a light bar and mount it to the hood.
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Jan 22, 2024 21:45
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The eighth gen Civic also had horrendous head light access. Yes, I would love to take the wheel off and remove the cowling to change the low beam.
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Jan 22, 2024 21:48
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I tried removing the whole housing but it required taking off the bumper. Plus I dropped a 10m socket into the engine bay and guessing into one of the pans/bumper. I tried reversing and slamming on the brakes in my driveway to shake it loose. I guess it's just another sacrifice to the mechanic gods.
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Jan 22, 2024 21:52
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It's easier to just pull the bumper to gently caress with the driver's side headlight. I tried to not do that but ended up dropping the clip and had to do it anyway on mine.
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Jan 22, 2024 22:24
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I think the "old" New Beetle had some obscene procedures for headlight bulb replacement, as well.
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Jan 22, 2024 22:43
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DJ Commie posted:I think the "old" New Beetle had some obscene procedures for headlight bulb replacement, as well. They Cayenne you just pop the headlights out with a screwdriver, put new bulbs in, and then throw them up on ebay for the owner of the cayenne to buy back from you.
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Jan 22, 2024 23:15
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Powershift posted:They Cayenne you just pop the headlights out with a screwdriver, put new bulbs in, and then throw them up on ebay for the owner of the cayenne to buy back from you. Had me in the first half
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Jan 23, 2024 00:19
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Darchangel posted:I believe it, though I don't think the effect works as well with thin white stripes as opposed to full on wide-whites. yea i mean, it's a suzuki that was built in canada; every corner was cut.
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Jan 23, 2024 02:20
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Update: I found the leak. It's between the water pump and block. Stupid paper water pump gasket. Looks like I get to do this job all over again. 
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Jan 23, 2024 20:10
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Night Danger Moose posted:Update: I found the leak. It's between the water pump and block. Stupid paper water pump gasket. Looks like I get to do this job all over again. ugh that sucks. use a thin coat of coolant-safe permatex on block and pump (or just one and no gasket) and you should be good.
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Jan 23, 2024 20:51
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chrisgt posted:ugh that sucks. use a thin coat of coolant-safe permatex on block and pump (or just one and no gasket) and you should be good. Yeah, that or actual "gasket sealer". I prefer non-hardening. [spoiler]shut up[/spoiler.]
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Jan 24, 2024 17:59
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Is the OE gasket paper, or is it one of the coated metal gaskets? All the aftermarket water pumps seem to love paper gaskets, I always end up buying an OE type gasket when I can. Especially if it's a timing belt driven pump. Reminds me, I need to order more 6G72 water pump gaskets. I need to do a timing belt this spring on mine, and I'm sure a couple others will appear before summer gets here
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Jan 25, 2024 02:13
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PitViper posted:Is the OE gasket paper, or is it one of the coated metal gaskets? All the aftermarket water pumps seem to love paper gaskets, I always end up buying an OE type gasket when I can. Especially if it's a timing belt driven pump. There is no OEM gasket, its just rtv on a Camry this old. The next generation of the engine is likely when it went to the coated metal gasket. Trusting the aftermarket paper gasket was definitely a rookie mistake that I won't make again.
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Jan 25, 2024 04:27
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Lights wired up and working also got the front reverse lights working but no pic. I need to get this reassembled and rolled out into the yard so I can work on the mazda.
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Jan 25, 2024 11:56
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Night Danger Moose posted:There is no OEM gasket, its just rtv on a Camry this old. The next generation of the engine is likely when it went to the coated metal gasket. Trusting the aftermarket paper gasket was definitely a rookie mistake that I won't make again. Really? I guess I'm just used to even old-as-dirt Mitsubishi engines having gaskets on the water pump. What brand pump? I see the Aisin pump has what looks to be a decent gasket provided, the only gasket listed separately is the lovely paper style from B-A. Edit: like this one. Too late now, but it looks to be at least some sort of multi piece gasket. 
PitViper fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jan 26, 2024 |
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Jan 26, 2024 00:43
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Well my brakes definitely hosed themselves last weekend on my drive back from Eastern Washington with temps hitting -20°f. My 08 4runner had a little over 100k when I bought it, I replaced all the calipers, rotors, and pads with the larger 5th Gen to eliminate some shuttering due to seized/sticking pistons almost immediately. I've replaced the pads maybe once or twice since. I'm at 212 now and the fronts are fine, but the rears seized up again. The slide pin/single piston design is just awful. Rear driver pads had about half of their life left. Rear passenger was nuked. Inside pad had a few mm of pad left. Outside pad was gone. Zero material. Negative material. Metal on metal. Rear driver pad  Rear passenger pad   So in went new calipers, rotors and pads from Napa. They had coated calipers and rotors so that was super nice. Ceramic pads. I love this car but I'll probably replace it by the time I have to deal with brakes again. 
Verman fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Jan 28, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 08:15
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Doing the interpretive dance nessecary to clean, etch and coat my old gas tank, my forearms cramped so hard my thumbs were completely curled up and i couldn't straighten them.   It came out pretty good considering what i started with. I may regret not replacing all the rusty stuff at some point, but $37 for the por15 and a couple days work hopefully saved ~$700. I also got a bunch of weight reduction just removing the tank and straps. 
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Jan 29, 2024 01:24
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NC Upgrades! Sparco Sprint seat with PCI base and side mounts, and the GWR long shifter.   The seat still has to come out one more time so I can button up the wiring (have to put a resistor in the airbag wire), but the position is dialed in. The shifter looks a little silly but it feels very nice. Same throw length as stock and similar effort, just with a longer stick so the shift knob is closer to the wheel. Can’t wait to try it on the autocross course.
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Jan 29, 2024 23:58
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It's not *me* doing it since there's a laundry list of long-postponed driveline stuff that I'm not equipped to handle myself but I dropped off my brick last Thursday. Pretty thorough front axle service with new parts, resealing the transfer case, and new rear driveshaft balance and u joints, plus my clutch is going, the clutch pedal box is getting worn out, clutch master cylinder... the list goes on. It's going to cost me but it's going to be so worth it, not just for peace of mind highway driving but for actually using 4wd through snowstorms and actually out having fun. I never want to let this thing go. When I die lay me down in the bed and roll it off a cliff.
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Jan 30, 2024 16:56
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New Covercraft seat covers for the Outback. Leather on the bottom bolsters was perished, particularly on the driver's side.     Fitment OK. Looks like I had a bad seam on one shoulder on the passenger side:   But satisfied. About as good as can be expected for slip-on covers vs actual new upholstery. edit: I should note it was only about 60F when I did these. Probably would have been easier/better fit if it was warmer. I'll be adjusting them if possible when it warms up here. Also changed the air filter:  ....oops. Went a little long on that one, but not *that* dirty:  (new at top.) Changed out the o-ring on the suction fitting for the PS pump as well, trying to cure a loud whining when cold. I used a generic o-ring, so not sure I got it sealed properly. The suction hose itself was hard as a rock, as was the original o-ring, so ordered a new hose as well as what is hopefully the proper o-ring. A helpful reviewer on the hose pointed to the o-ring, so thanks for that, random Amazon buyer.
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Jan 30, 2024 21:20
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My dudes, https://i.imgur.com/RCoTfpg.mp4 It runs, it runs well. Ignore the heavy breathing, i was, in fact, dying. Now i can load up the parts cannon. The most recent timing belt sticker is 1996.
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Feb 4, 2024 02:26
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You can probably save some garage space in the winter by parking that in the Lincoln's engine bay, yeah?
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Feb 4, 2024 03:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:You can probably save some garage space in the winter by parking that in the Lincoln's engine bay, yeah? Park it on the hood like an aircraft carrier. I think the front bumpers are about even and it's funny how much Lincoln is left after the Toyota ends. The only timing belt sticker is from 96. the last(and only) carfax entry was a registration renewal in 06. The last documented Oil change was 930 miles ago in January 2008 so it's possible it's the first time this thing ran in 16 years.  Trying to pile a bunch of parts into my cart on rockauto. 3 items from 1 warehouse, fine, 4 items and it splits into 2 warehouses, add a 5th item and i'm at 4 warehouses. Adding a $8 filter increases the total price $52.
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Feb 4, 2024 06:32
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Yeah, I've had to play that game on Rockauto a lot recently. Two wheel bearings and rotors/pads on my car? One warehouse, $40 or so shipping. Add another rotor/pad set for the other car? Oops now it's 3 warehouses and $115 in shipping. I try and keep a list of things I need soon-ish on my desk, so I can check if anything can get added to a combined order without adding another warehouse to the mix.
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Feb 4, 2024 07:15
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Worked on my buddy's mouse turd Corolla today, installed the speakers. He read a bunch of reviews that said these cheap rear end speakers punch way above their weight and to be honest they were not wrong. https://www.amazon.com/RECOIL-6-5-Inch-Component-Speaker-System/dp/B08DNJDR6K/ Surprisingly good sound for under $100 front and rear. The only real drawback is they did not include wiring or flush mount brackets. They had flush mount cups for the tweeters with no way to hold them into a panel.
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Feb 4, 2024 08:03
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Did some work on the C5. Passed emissions, which I was kind of worried about : in 21 years, no one has used LS1Edit or HPTuners on this car in a way that CARB disagrees with, despite having 8 previous owners and things like fancy shocks, tire rub marks and a skip shift eliminator. This does make my life easier: I can get plates for it, and can save the stock tune for future smog tests once I do something that calls for tuning. Approximately the only CARB-legal power add with a reasonable price:hp ratio is an intake, so I picked up an aFe with non-oiled filter. No idea if it added power (haven't dynoed the car yet), but long term fuel trims shifted from 0/1 to 7/8 after installing, so the ECU thinks it's getting more air and needs more fuel.  Installed multi-element LED headlights from knightdrivetv, and am almost happy with the aiming on them. Stock C5 headlights are awful; I shoved 9005 bulbs into the low beams immediately but they're still not acceptable. Dropping HIDs or LEDs into a reflector housing probably results in bad geometry, so full replacements are the way to go: knightdrive is a bit cheaper than ASA and the sleepy eye popup is kind of cool. I think I need to do a third pass on leveling though: the right side is a couple degrees above parallel, which is not ideal. [  Installed a 5 channel amp, mounted under the passenger seat. A few weeks ago I did a Kenwood receiver with Android Auto, and cheap/reused amps for the 4 mains and a 8" Infinity Kappa sub. I wasn't happy with the mount locations for the amps (in a rear storage cubby, but they were too tall for that area), and realized that under the passenger seat was the best spot for an amp without compromising cargo storage. New setup is a d'Amore d660.5, and 55w * 4 and 300 * 1 should be ideal for my Infinity speakers. Wiring an amp in a new location is messy while in progress:  But once everything is in place, it's reasonably clean (and is under a seat anyway):  Tomorrow's project is a coolant change (and also hoses, thermostat, expansion tank, and cap) because I have no idea when that was ever done on this car. I'm hoping that stock radiator filled with distilled water + water wetter is good enough for Atessa / Podium Club next month, because I do not want to also buy a $900 radiator upgrade and $500 of hood louvers right now.
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Feb 4, 2024 09:01
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opengl posted:Electric power steering coupler in the wife's Elantra. The factory one turns to goo eventually, which causes all kinds of slop and clunking noises. Hey nitwit, it's yourself from the future: when doing this job be sure NOT to dislodge the sunroof drain without realizing it. If you don't do that, listen to your wife when she says the inside of the windows has been damp in the mornings and even icing up. Definitely don't wait until she complains 2 months later that half the electronics went dead to discover that there's a literal moat under the seat from the sunroof drain flowing directly over the fuse block and under the carpet 
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Feb 4, 2024 23:32
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Had to jump start my Prius today. That was weird. When the 12v dies they act really wonky. I was outside a bakery waiting for my wife and we went to leave and the dash was blinking all kinds of lights and it wouldn't turn on. Off to get a battery I guess. **Update** Holy poo poo. Getting that battery out is a pain in the rear end. Needed a few different sockets, a dozen fasteners, removing a bunch of plastic. Found a bunch of water in my spare space and under the battery so I cleaned all that out. Went to grab a battery from Costco but they don't carry it in store and it would take a week to get here. I went to O'Reilly's and it was $270 out the door but they were unsure of which battery I needed, so I went back home and took the thing out and brought it in. Came home and had to figure out how to open the trunk without the battery installed. It felt like a comedy of errors. The Prius is a great car until you need to do anything to it. Verman fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 4, 2024 23:39
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I think I posted about replacing the O-ring for the PS pump suction inlet previously. If not: I did that using a generic O-ring, discovered that the existing suction hose was no longer rubber, but hard and presumably brittle plastic, and that replacing the O-ring did not fix the noisy pump issue. So I ordered a new aftermarket replacement hose, and a new OEM O-ring. From my thread: Darchangel posted:Got the parts in for the Outback, so time to hopefully fix that. edit: PitViper posted:Yeah, I've had to play that game on Rockauto a lot recently. Two wheel bearings and rotors/pads on my car? One warehouse, $40 or so shipping. Add another rotor/pad set for the other car? Oops now it's 3 warehouses and $115 in shipping. I try and keep a list of things I need soon-ish on my desk, so I can check if anything can get added to a combined order without adding another warehouse to the mix. There are also indicators when shopping if items in a category are at the same warehouse as something in your cart, so you can, say, spend a bit more on a different manufacturer's part, but ultimately same more than the difference in shipping.
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Feb 5, 2024 21:40
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Coolant-adjacent maintenance on the C5! Carfax on the car has some recent dealership work on oil (1500mi ago), diff fluid, and transmission fluid, but nothing about coolant. GM spec is 5 years, then every 3 after that: I'm guessing this car has not had its coolant changed 7 times in 50k miles. And for future track use, I don't trust a bunch of 21 year old plastic and rubber bits dealing with pressurized coolant. New upper & lower hoses, thermostat, expansion tank, and cap. Filling with distilled water, Water Wetter, and maybe 1/2gal of Dexcool for a 25ish freezing point, or just more distilled water because San Diego 2nd car that lives in a garage and doesn't have all season tires. As I was taking things apart to reach hose clamps, I realized that I was closer to access some other changes in and around the front bumper.  Items here: install tow hook (After Dark Racing, feels sturdy and came with hardware and good instructions), figure out front license plate mount, maybe relocate the LED driving lights and nose camera. Results:  Camera went back where it was before, as did the lights. Installing the rivnuts for the hook (17/32" hole for 3/8-16 bolts) was irritating because of cramped access: I had to use a wrench and mandrel instead of my rivnut gun, and I can't really reach the point on the bumper beam where I'd want to put the driving lights. So I'll see how much they move at highway speeds, and whether they're even useful with the LED headlights. Future maintenance includes replacing the sacrificial lower radiator support: it's a $90 assembly that scrapes so the subframes don't, and mine is chewed up but still in one piece. Replacing this means pulling the bumper, at which point I'll be able to reach more of the bumper beam to solidly mount the driving lights. I got one of the Show-n-go license plate frames, looked at the bumper scrape marks that I'd be installing it on top of, and will be returning it to Amazon. Adding something that hangs down an extra inch doesn't seem like a good idea, and the C5's panel that covers the front plate mount area will cover up the screw holes if I stop needing a front plate. It's not a show car.
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Feb 6, 2024 08:27
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 coooooooool. Pretty much everywhere that sells this kit has it listed as the correct part for the car, it is not, i don't know what combination of answers you have to give rockauto for them to correct it, but i apparently did not guess them. There is no way to contact them, they have no customer service. There doesn't even seem to be a way to report an incorrectly listed part. They're just an absolute last resort now, i guess. I can still use the water pump and belt tensioner so it's only a ~$50 lesson. Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 23:15
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Just do a chargeback, I've had to do it with them before and decided I'd never order from them again after that
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Feb 11, 2024 05:35
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In preparation for the nor’easter I put some air in the four wheeler tires so I can plow. They were all at 0.0 psi, which is lower than ideal so I bumped ‘em all up to 6 psi.
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Feb 12, 2024 18:23
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Powershift posted:
I've returned parts to Rock Auto before. The rear strut tops they listed for our Kia were incorrect. Use the "Order Status & Returns" button at the top, then "Report a problem with an order or shipment" or "Get return instructions and shipping label or enter return tracking" I'm assuming that the shorter belt is the new on - I'd bet that's for a 4AC. I have both an '87 SOHC AE86 and a '85 DOHC AE86 in my "saved cars" on RA for some reason. Here's what I get for the "Timing Belt and Component kit": DAYCO 95070K1 is listed for the SOHC 4AC. DAYCO 95112K1 is listed for the DOHC. Seems correct - it's shown as fitting '85-88 MR2 and '88 Chevy Nova, as well, both of which had the 4AGE. Ah, I see you got the water pump included kit? Only one I see there for the DOHC is US MOTOR WORKS USTK070, whoever the gently caress they are. That one doesn't list the MR2, and list's the '85-88 Nova, which is suspect. Oh, yeah, same part number is listed under the SOHC. Definitely incorrect. LOL, US Motor Works' own site just says: Chevrolet Nova 1985-1988 1.6L L4 Cyl 98 CID Toyota Corolla 1984-1988 1.6L L4 Cyl- CID which tells you nothing, since both 4AC and 4AGE are 1600s... Idiots.
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Feb 12, 2024 19:46
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I found their e-mail on a complaint website and we went back and forth a few times this morning, They've accepted fault and will accept the return and cover shipping but... The water pump and tensioner pulley work and are already on the car. after shipping, a water pump and pulley alone are more than the price of the kit. There is nowhere near me that has a water pump or pulley available, Toyota is getting me a timing belt for $77 but the pulley is $380 in their system and not available anyways. The only parts store with a timing belt in their system also had a part number ending in 070 which would be the 4ac belt. They did the right thing. It's still going to cost me a little more but i'll have a genuine toyota timing belt on it. It would have been a little cheaper overall getting the right parts the first time but I'm happy with the resolution. I probably didn't even need to replace the water pump but it looks like it was double gasket anyways. The coolant passages i can see, and the old coolant and subsequent flushes look fine. Definitely not toyota red though.   The tensioner pulley was gummed up with belt schmoo so definitely has to go. Because i've got both power steering and A/C, getting into this stuff is hell and i'd rather not do it again any time soon if i can help it. This is the last timing cover bolt AFTER removing 3/4 power steering bracket bolts and rotating it out of the way a bit. The 4th bolt would require removal of the A/C compressor.  I knew the car would be an adventure, but drat. At least with the Lincoln, half the parts were shared with 3 decades of f-250s and various cars. and there's only one variant. tl:dr: Rock auto made right. Car hopefully on the road this week for the first time since George W Bush was president.
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Feb 12, 2024 20:21
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