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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Gonna start referring to high solvent content thinners as too spicy for regular hobby paints

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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

BizarroAzrael posted:

Is water okay for thinning Citadel and Vallejo paints for airbrush? I was looking at Tamiya thinner earlier but a quick stretch suggests that's wrong for water based acrylics? So far I've just used an old bottle of Vallejo air white and it's been okay neat but a little thick which I think caused issues in the nozzle I'd like to avoid.

I would strongly suggest pure water with vallejo. It is very sensitive to solvents in thinner like IPA and will coagulate when exposed and clog up your brush.

Citadel is far more forgiving in this regard and I cut 4-3-1 paint-water-ipa to thin and it works wonderfully.

Samovar
Jun 4, 2011

I'm 😤 not a 🦸🏻‍♂️hero...🧜🏻



Well done, Al-saqr. I was scared my critiques when you first showed us w.i.p. had discouraged you. But I'm glad those fears were unfounded. They are loud, proud and garish. Just like a horrifying all-consuming bug horde should be.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Bucnasti posted:

Yes water will work, but it works by diluting the paint, the color will be less saturated.

Use Airbrush thinner, which is just distilled water(90%) and Isopropyl Alcohol(10%), to thin non-airbrush paints to the general consistency you want, and then add a little bit of flow improver to get it dialed in.
Tamiya thinner is probably way too hot for Citadel and Vallejo paints.

Okay I can look at this since I have Isopropyl but I know it will gloop up acrylic paint on it's own. How would filtered water be here? I can see about distilling but that's something I have more immediate access to.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

People paint with regular water, distilled is also available in stores for a couple of dollars if you really need it.

Distilled I'd recommend for stuff that will be sitting around for a long time, not something that you'll use and throw away.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/02/08/bring-the-house-down-with-the-siege-breaker-consul/



GW just dropped a new Techmarine, or Imperial Fist Captain, model.

Tarquinn
Jul 3, 2007

I know I’ve made some very poor decisions recently, but I can give you
my complete assurance that my work will be back to normal.
Hell Gem

Warzone: instagram

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Need to freehand the Machina Opus though.

War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN

The Demilich posted:

Seeing them all lined up makes me realize Abaddon is too big compared to the normal marine imo. Still a great sculpt though. I wonder how much taller Abaddon is compared to the new terminator sculpts.

He's still a head shorter than the Primarchs which going by the rules of visual storytelling makes him the protagonist of the setting :)

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM

You'd think they would throw Iron Warriors a bone here and make him in mk3 armor but nooooo

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Swiping left on loyalists

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

SuperKlaus posted:

Any advice on doing like this? It looks like Dragonball hair and I was thinking about trying to sculpt some Dragonball hair for some guys.

Stick a blob of green stuff on and pinch and twist with some (lubricated!) clippers and/or tweezers. Work from inside to out, and be careful to turn it constantly unless you want wind-blown flames.

ro5s
Dec 27, 2012

A happy little mouse!


failing to suppress a fit of giggles is a new expression for space marines

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

Cease to Hope posted:

Stick a blob of green stuff on and pinch and twist with some (lubricated!) clippers and/or tweezers. Work from inside to out, and be careful to turn it constantly unless you want wind-blown flames.



these type of tools are nifty for sculpting green stuff as well. but yeah def lube it up

SuperKlaus
Oct 20, 2005


Fun Shoe
What is that tool?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

they are but you need to pinch and form to make licks of flame

TehRedWheelbarrow
Mar 16, 2011



Fan of Britches

SuperKlaus posted:

What is that tool?

its a standard pottery tool, anything geared for clay works pretty well with green stuff.

Yvonmukluk
Oct 10, 2012

Everything is Sinister


ro5s posted:

failing to suppress a fit of giggles is a new expression for space marines

Clearly he's dictating the terms of surrender to the poor beakie on the other end of his call, hence the contempt.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Oh hey, Peachy left The Painting Phase.

There goes my entire reason for watching/listening to The Painting Phase.

TehRedWheelbarrow posted:



these type of tools are nifty for sculpting green stuff as well. but yeah def lube it up

And unless all the unsolicited video ads on poo poo like Twitter has lied to me this tool is also really great at clearing copious amounts of blackheads.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
my usual green stuff tools:
  • silicone-tipped tools, mainly a round cone, a diagonally-sliced cylinder, and a flat wedge. these work like brushes, and let you move or adjust details without leaving a tool mark.
  • an awl spike. it's pointy, you want a pointy tool. i've also used a dentist's pick but i couldn't find a local med supply store that would sell one to a random person when i looked
  • metal ball-tipped tools, mainly a ~3mm ball, a <1mm ball, and a <1mm pointy ball (like a reverse tear drop). Sometimes you want a tool that will leave marks, or just want to bash the epoxy into place. these make good crude adjustment tools, better than everything in a "sculpting tools" set i got as a gift
  • a blunt-edged spoon-shaped tool about 4-5mm wide. this is just for digging out a bad project mainly
  • both edges of my xacto knife. for lines, scraping, twisting on the point to make cone-shaped holes, etc.
  • some crappy nivea knockoff hand lotion. water-based lotion rules. put a glom of it on the back of your off-hand and use it to re-lube tools or fingers. very little residue (unlike oil/grease-based options, like vaseline). cleans up with your bare hands.
  • nitrile glove for (at least) my main hand. professionals do not leave fingerprints.
  • a plastic shot glass with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol. this goes on with a junked brush to smooth fingerprints or other fine marks on most epoxies. it's also necessary IME to clean up tools when using grainier epoxies, like mulliput, especially off of my silicone tools.
  • a smooth, flat, clean rolling surface free of glue drips, shavings, fragments, etc. it's easy to forget you need this until you need it.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Please recommend me videos of people painting Boarding Action/Into the dark terrain, preferably reasonably fast.

I just bought a set secondhand unpainted and holy gently caress this is a lot plastic and I need some inspiration.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Drybrush is your friend there I believe.

I was looking for ideas on how to paint a hologram table a while back and remembered that stumbled across this post during it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/killteam/comments/130u22g/comment/jhydxiu/

Concatenation
Jul 23, 2005

Your human mentality cries out for vengeance and thrives on the violence you say you can hardly endure.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Geisladisk posted:

Please recommend me videos of people painting Boarding Action/Into the dark terrain, preferably reasonably fast.

I just bought a set secondhand unpainted and holy gently caress this is a lot plastic and I need some inspiration.

I like The State of Play, whose whole channel is based on a foundation of instructions on how to do Necromunda terrain quickly and well. Here's his comprehensive video on painting Zone Mortalis. You'd have to adapt it for Into the Dark terrain, of course.

Eric's Hobby Workshop also did a big Boarding Actions build; here's the video where he paints it.

If you do a YouTube search for "painting boarding action terrain" you;ll get a lot of resources. I remember liking the ones by Mediocre Hobbies and Chris Frosin, I think.

Stephenls fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Feb 9, 2024

Robo Captain
Sep 28, 2013
I finally managed to get a hold of a new land raider redeemer and this mould sure is showing its age.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Geisladisk posted:

Please recommend me videos of people painting Boarding Action/Into the dark terrain, preferably reasonably fast.

I just bought a set secondhand unpainted and holy gently caress this is a lot plastic and I need some inspiration.

Spray brown, zenithal with a blue grey across the top 2-thirds. Drybrush pale grey.

Sponge chip and/or smear with dirty down rust.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Robo Captain posted:

I finally managed to get a hold of a new land raider redeemer and this mould sure is showing its age.



Hopefully that means my order for one will be fulfilled soon, although this doesn't exactly give me a great feeling..

War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN

I really wish they'd lay off the skulls for 30K

Vulpes Vulpes
Apr 28, 2013

"...for you, it is all over...!"

Geisladisk posted:

Please recommend me videos of people painting Boarding Action/Into the dark terrain, preferably reasonably fast.

I just bought a set secondhand unpainted and holy gently caress this is a lot plastic and I need some inspiration.

For a play by play of my own quick and dirty terrain:

1. Spray everything down with a can of Tremclad Rust in some form of brown from Canadian Tire


*note: do any gluing you want to do before this, I did not and regret it

2. Spray everything at a downward angle with another hardware store can of white paint


3. Sponge with Rhinox Brown (or another dark brown)


4. Slop on a wash of a mix of thinned oil paint browns, reds and yellows, then wipe off with paper towels soaked in thinners/spirits

Vulpes Vulpes fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Feb 9, 2024

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Robo Captain posted:

I finally managed to get a hold of a new land raider redeemer and this mould sure is showing its age.



I got that kit when it was first released, hard to believe it is still in use.

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
Had similar issues with my Chaos rhino; gaps, scratches, mold slips all over the place. I will be using HH Deimos kits from now on. They should really make a new landraider kit/ fresh mold and include options for the MK 2/a/b/3 variants. This would cover HH and 40k, then new chaos/redeemer/crusader upgrade sprues for the other variants.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Impressive how games-workshop will keep using old molds until they crack or something.

OctaMurk
Jun 21, 2013

Lostconfused posted:

Impressive how games-workshop will keep using old molds until they crack or something.

Thats what pretty much all plastic production companies do. If it still pumps out parts and people keep buying, it would actually be insane to just replace the mold

Improbable Lobster
Jan 6, 2012

"From each according to his ability" said Ares. It sounded like a quotation.
Buglord

OctaMurk posted:

Thats what pretty much all plastic production companies do. If it still pumps out parts and people keep buying, it would actually be insane to just replace the mold

They're usually one of the biggest costs too so if you don't need to get a new one, you don't

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
I propose we form a an elite commando unit and infiltrate Notingham to destroy all the molds for kits we don't like to force their hand.

IllustriousChen
Feb 16, 2012

Geisladisk posted:

Please recommend me videos of people painting Boarding Action/Into the dark terrain, preferably reasonably fast.

I just bought a set secondhand unpainted and holy gently caress this is a lot plastic and I need some inspiration.

A quick and easy option:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLKHARPIgsI&t=28s


Duncan putting in a bit more effort:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6iV-vQMSsQ

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
I have no idea how any of this works, but why are molds so expensive? what are they made of?

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Steel as I recall from previous discussions.

Samuel L. Hacksaw
Mar 26, 2007

Never Stop Posting
I used to be a moldmaker for plastic injection molding and based on the detail and finish of the bits and how smooth the gating is and how most parting lines are incorporated into the model we're talking probably a couple hundred thousand dollars per mold-set in material and labor.

Well over half a million bucks after engineering and development costs.

That's for a typical 1-frame mold set. It looks like they run 2 sprues per mold set, and depending on the size of their machines, they could run 4+ sets per mold base.

The mold bases are cheap and last forever. the custom pusher plates, ejector rods, and the actual mold sets that cast the model are the expensive bit and they wear out from the friction and forces on guide features from shooting the plastic in and clamping pressure.

E:vvv yeah, with the caveat that hot-runner systems can be integrated into mold bases if you engineer it smart enough, so they don't need to be custom for every new model design.

I used to work with a mold base that had a hot-runner system and 16 sets in the base, making 64 parts per shot. That fucker wore out sets all the time b/c we ran it 24/7 for Walmart.

We had 4 of them and any given time 2 were down for maintenance and one or 2 sets would be removed and the gates to those sprues shut off.

Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 9, 2024

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OctaMurk
Jun 21, 2013
its not just the fact that its steel-- molds are made of hardened steel and sometimes special other alloys which must be precision ground at certain surfaces to tenths of thousandths by highly paid machinists, and are expected to open and close hundreds of thousands or millions of times while contains tens of thousands psi pressure of molten plastic. many molds also have complex heated manifolds in the mold to deliver the plastic to the cavities. The design of the mold is usually done once again by highly paid designers who size those manifolds, the runner systems, place the cavities in a way that minimizes undercuts and equalizes pressures and temperatures. Each mold is practically a custom piece of equipment.

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