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Please tell me if I should post this somewhere else or make a thread, I have issues with my ~2002 toyota corolla~ In 2020 my car was stolen, it was recovered as soon as it was jumpstarted because a cop watched the entire thing. my car was patched up by my dads friend. from that point on, the car had run fine, but over time, the car begun having issues with starting. occasionally there would be a single click and engine wouldn't attempt starting. Over time its gotten to the point where I have to jiggle the steering wheel and rotate it until I find the "sweet spot" which will allow the engine to start. other things that seem to induce this problem are temperature changes (too cold/hot outside, seasonal changes), or parking in such a way that causes the steering wheel not to be in a neutral position. All of these rituals could just be red herrings, but there's periods where I have to do this song and dance until the car starts. Video below from this morning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I3DbF_3xjs here's what the underside of my steering wheel looks like, for all that are morbidly interested.  objective: fix this issue as e1: oh yeah, i took this to a mechanic once. the car got scared and started working and they couldn't get it to not work the whole 4 days they had it. buglord fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 20:36
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That just sounds to me like a starter going bad, likely unreleated to the theft. The bendix is engaging but the starter isn't spinning. I can't think of a dash wiring related issue that would cause that. You can pull the starter and bench test it by applying 12v. A new one is $100-$200 and if you have a safe way to get the front end in the air can be replaced with basic hand tools. If it is the starter, it will at one point, likely at the worst possible time, completely stop working even after performing the ritual. Mine died in a car wash and i had to push the truck outside and replace it in the parking lot. I was fortunate enough to have 3 foot long arms and ground clearance so i was able to replace it with the truck on the ground. Powershift fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 21:28
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Seconding starter, or the starter switch (that block wrapped around the column that the white Jones plug is plugged into). But current's getting to the starter so voting starter relay/solenoid (they're both in the starter). Another test is to hold the key over & have someone tap on the starter housing. I have an old pool cue that serves this purpose, but any long thin thing that'll reach the starter housing will do. If the starter springs to life after a couple taps, then it's the starter.
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Feb 12, 2024 21:32
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You can test starters out of the engine too with your battery and jumper cables.
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Feb 12, 2024 21:45
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Thanks for the quick responses everyone. I dont know why I waited so long to ask here. Two thoughts: 1) I definitely lack the mechanical skill and tools to test out the starter by feeding it electricity, but I can find a pool cue/wooden stick and give it some pokes. (I cant test it now because now the car sprung back to life again). Can the starter be poked here, where the arrow is pointing? That's the housing, per the video, but im not sure if its supposed to be underneath.  2) I have some Amazon credit that was going to go towards a fancy 1kw microwave, but this will have to be where the money goes instead. How do I confirm compatibility with my car? My car is an automatic transmission, CE Trim. Heres what Amazon served up. Am I all good here? https://www.amazon.com/TYC-1-17727-Corolla-Replacement-Starter/dp/B001FHSA40
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Feb 12, 2024 22:32
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1) Yes. just make sure you're hitting against the metal, Some starters can have plastic parts. it usually helps having someone tap it while you try to start it if that's in the cards. 2) That does look like the part number. if you have to take it to a retail mechanic they might not want to install a part you supplied. Book time(what a mechanic would bill for) is only 0.7 hours.
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Feb 12, 2024 23:10
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Powershift posted:1) Yes. just make sure you're hitting against the metal, Some starters can have plastic parts. it usually helps having someone tap it while you try to start it if that's in the cards. Powershift posted:2) That does look like the part number. if you have to take it to a retail mechanic they might not want to install a part you supplied. Few more questions came through since I had posted this morning. I'm incredibly grateful for your patience in answering the ones I posted prior. 3) A friend is insistent I sign up with AAA, then have them come out and test my car. My car sprang to life today, so I can give it a few days till it acts up, then call AAA after ive been onboard for several days. He had called them when he couldn't start his car and they confirmed his issue was just with a starter and not the other parts he had suspected (alternator) 4) Same friend also asked if this could potentially have anything to do with the steering column, ignition, alternator. None of you mentioned this, so I figured this wasn't something you believed to be an issue. But AAA could be the one to narrow it down? Or am I pretty much safe in assuming its just the starter, given the information i've provided. buglord fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 23:22
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I pulled the wiring diagram for that car and assuming this is correct, no, nothing at the ignition switch or steering column or anywhere else could be causing this specific failure: Your car is new enough / Toyota is sane enough that the ignition switch (if everything else is happy, like the clutch start switch or the park/neutral switch) just triggers a starter relay. This isn't an older GM setup where they run the entire starter solenoid current through the ignition switch - this leads to all kinds of voltage sag issues. The fact that the starter is attempting to crank the engine when it fails to do so says the starter relay is getting engaged, and it would be an exceptionally rare failure of a standard automotive relay to only sometimes pass enough current to fully engage the starter. The odds are strongly in favor of this being a dead starter, with the next best possibility being loose connections at the high gauge cables - battery cables, ground straps, etc.
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Feb 12, 2024 23:43
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buglord posted:Perfect I mean like, if it's someone you know who is a mechanic, they'll probably do it, but if it's just a local shop you find in the phone book, you should definitely confirm they will install a part you provide. They should also be able to give you a quote for it, which you can expect to possibly be slightly higher. Some may want diagnostic time. If it was the alternator or battery, you probably wouldn't hear it click the same every time, and it would get progressively worse instead of being intermittent. after a few attempts it would start a quieter, more rapid clicking. meaning if you were constantly losing voltage it wouldn't start better on later attempts. If it was a problem with the ignition wires, you likely wouldn't hear the starter try to engage. AAA will test a battery and alternator simply by touching a multimeter to the battery terminals with the vehicle not running, and running. I don't think they have the means to roadside test a starter. A year's membership here is pretty similar in cost to a single tow though, so if you drive junk and rely on your vehicle it's not a terrible thing to have. Powershift fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 13, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 23:57
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Another vote here for it 100% being the starter. That should be step one of one.
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Feb 13, 2024 00:00
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Followup with my Forester's stuck clutch, I had to take a video of the slave cylinder while I pressed the clutch a few times but I do see cylinder actuating and moving. I couldn't actually position my phone easily to get a good angle to see it pushing against the clutch fork but I doubt that's the issue. Not to say that it's impossible but it'll have to wait thanks to the upcoming winter weather. It seems like there is a bunch of under-cladding I need to remove to get access to lower clutch flywheel cover to get a relatively easy view of the clutch and flywheel. That means I'll have to jack the car up onto jack stands which won't be happening soon thanks to the aforementioned weather.
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Feb 13, 2024 01:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:I pulled the wiring diagram for that car and assuming this is correct, no, nothing at the ignition switch or steering column or anywhere else could be causing this specific failure: Powershift posted:I mean like, if it's someone you know who is a mechanic, they'll probably do it, but if it's just a local shop you find in the phone book, you should definitely confirm they will install a part you provide. They should also be able to give you a quote for it, which you can expect to possibly be slightly higher. Some may want diagnostic time. Dr. Lunchables posted:Another vote here for it 100% being the starter. Ordered the starter. Thanks everyone, especially for the explanations. Ill call around and see who can install it for me. Once that's done, it'll be time to investigate the P0171 issue (wasn't a hose leak) and see if its worth trying to go down that rabbit hole to sell a car that can be optimistically priced at 1k.
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Feb 13, 2024 04:06
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buglord posted:Once that's done, it'll be time to investigate the P0171 issue (wasn't a hose leak) and see if its worth trying to go down that rabbit hole to sell a car that can be optimistically priced at 1k. Is it 90% rust by weight? No? It's a Corolla, it's worth at least $2k in today's market and probably more.
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Feb 13, 2024 18:01
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It's a piece of poo poo, I'll do you a favor and give you $250 for it but you're really twisting my balls on this one.
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Feb 13, 2024 18:16
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I’ll take it off your hands for free OP
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Feb 13, 2024 18:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is it 90% rust by weight? No? It's a Corolla, it's worth at least $2k in today's market and probably more. Seriously if you list that car for $1k, even its current condition, your inbox will explode. Agreed on $2k bare minimum, probably more once fixed.
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Feb 13, 2024 20:05
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So does all this stuff yall are saying about a Corolla apply to a 2009 Matrix with under 190K?
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Feb 13, 2024 20:19
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:So does all this stuff yall are saying about a Corolla apply to a 2009 Matrix with under 190K? Matrices only really start losing value once the odometer hits 299,999 because that's as high as they go. an 09 with 299,999kms showing would still list for 5 grand here. Reminder these are auction prices, so lower than private party. Also Canadian dollars, mileage in kms, etc. 
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Feb 13, 2024 20:25
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I mean under 190,000 miles, but still, drat. We were thinking about selling ours since we just got a RAV4. The dealership offered $1000, so I figured maybe we could get $2000 in a private sale. Then I decided to keep it as my beater car since it's running great and I dont want to dd my manual Tacoma around town any more.
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Feb 13, 2024 20:32
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gently caress I'm so old people talking about an '09 like it's some ancient rust heap I gave my '05 Tacoma to my son and I still felt like it was a huge score for him
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Feb 13, 2024 21:17
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LegoMan posted:gently caress I'm so old people talking about an '09 like it's some ancient rust heap I'm at the age where the birth of the universe doesn't seem that far back.
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Feb 13, 2024 21:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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I mean I know it's not an ancient rust heap, because I drive it and work on it. But I also know budget cars from the 00s generally not worth much money.
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Feb 13, 2024 22:51
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Any running car is worth like minimum $2k these days, and more like 4k if it isn't shithoused.
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Feb 13, 2024 23:10
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Well I have a question then. I daily drive about 6-10 miles, commuting and daycare dropoff/pickup. Most trip legs are no more than 15 minutes. I've been using my Tacoma for the last few years of this. Insurance is pretty cheap on both the Tacoma and Matrix. Does it make more sense to insure both as cheaply as possible (understanding the risks of low coverage/high deductible) and keep the Matrix as a daily driver? I figure what I could sell the Matrix for would go into wear and tear and gas on the Tacoma in a couple years time, but that's a guess. I don't log gas, but truck maintenance has been pretty inexpensive so far. Matrix maintenance is cheaper still and fuel economy is better.
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Feb 13, 2024 23:16
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Having another vehicle is probably going to be more expensive than not having it. The question is whether that cost is worth it to you. It’s definitely an economical third car, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth assessing what it costs and what it provides you. Peace of mind, easier trips around town, all fair points. But remember it requires a lot of the same things your Tacoma does. And your Tacoma can do a lot of things it does too.
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Feb 14, 2024 06:23
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Well I have a question then. Ditch the car and keep the Tacoma. You know how everyone is going "2k everyday baby!!!" ? You know how you have a manual Tacoma? You have probably one of the most desirable normal vehicles that exist. A manual Taco is $$$$$$$$ all day everyday in a way that makes the Matrix or Corolla blush. You are never going to kill your Tacoma, you are never going to lose value on that Tacoma no matter how many miles get put on it. The maintenance on your Taco is going to be cheap and you are never going to some how out run maintenance costs on a single vehicle by having two vehicles. Having two cars is always more expensive than one if they are both Toyotas from that era. Seems like a very clear choice to me.
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Feb 14, 2024 06:35
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Ok, that's really helpful, thanks to both of you. I plan on keeping the Tacoma until it either dies or becomes enough of a financial/maintenance burden that it's not feasible. It's in great shape with low miles for a 2007. I'm really not especially concerned with maintaining $ value on it, it's more the desire to keep the utility value on it and not "need" a new truck any time soon. It does all the truck stuff I need it to perfectly. I've just convinced myself that so many short trips around town on a nearly daily basis is shortening its usable lifespan. That and the better fuel economy of the Matrix for that kind of driving is nice. We still planned on getting rid of the Matrix within a couple years anyway, once the kids can walk/bike/bus to school. I need to get back to bike commuting with them more anyway.
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Feb 14, 2024 07:28
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Not to be a fly in the ointment, but make sure that the frame on your Tacoma is solid & not one of the ones that rusts out. My sister bought an '06 4Runner and it took a lot of work on my part to kill the creeping rust that was there before it hit anything critical. It was a close-run thing,
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Feb 14, 2024 15:43
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They are still replacing frames. Coworker had his replaced a few months ago.
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Feb 14, 2024 17:36
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Colostomy Bag posted:They are still replacing frames. Coworker had his replaced a few months ago. I should go buy a taco
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Feb 14, 2024 17:37
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Another option (at least in many parts of the world, not sure what traffic conditions and cultural norms are like where you live) to avoid running lots of short trips in a pickup truck would be a secondary vehicle that's not a car. Like a scooter, motorcycle or e-bike. 10 miles is within comfortable e-bike distance for me but I'm blessed with having good safe routes where I want to go. Very economical vehicles, e-bikes. The nice ones cost a fair bit to buy new but operating them is dirt cheap compared to any car. There are cargo e-bikes purpose built for hauling kids that are fantastic for daycare runs and the like and every kid I've ever given a ride in mine absolutely loved riding it. Just good clean practical healthy fun all around. They make awesome grocery haulers too of course. I also have a little 50cc scooter (also very economical) and a proper motorcycle (not economical) but those are for fun more than utility if I'm being honest, although I commute by motorcycle more than I probably should.
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Feb 14, 2024 17:37
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cursedshitbox posted:I should go buy a taco His wasn't even a Taco, was a Tundra. He did have a good relationship with the dealer...and had them do a couple thousand suspension rebuild on all the corners which probably helped grease the replacement process.
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Feb 14, 2024 17:43
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Mine actually had a frame recall performed before I bought it. I should get under there and do my annual check though.Invalido posted:EBike stuff Appreciate this, but I'm definitely not going the ebike route. I sold all my motorcycles off because they don't fit into a kid transporting lifestyle in favor of a deeper dive into bicycles, which do favor kid transporting. An ebike is too close to the motorcycles I'm getting away from, takes up the same amount of space, and just doesn't solve anything for me better than a regular bike does. I've got at least 3 bikes that tow my kid trailer great, so I just need to get back to it. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Feb 14, 2024 |
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Feb 14, 2024 17:48
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Colostomy Bag posted:They are still replacing frames. Coworker had his replaced a few months ago. Whatever happened to thatgoon that had to get the frame replaced on his, but Toyota told him the recall was over with?
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Feb 14, 2024 18:23
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Appreciate this, but I'm definitely not going the ebike route. I sold all my motorcycles off because they don't fit into a kid transporting lifestyle in favor of a deeper dive into bicycles, which do favor kid transporting. An ebike is too close to the motorcycles I'm getting away from, takes up the same amount of space, and just doesn't solve anything for me better than a regular bike does. I've got at least 3 bikes that tow my kid trailer great, so I just need to get back to it.
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Feb 14, 2024 19:00
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Invalido posted:My experience is totally opposite to this. E-bikes are bikes, not motorcycles. They're just not. They take up as much space as you want them to. The smaller lighter ones can be carried around in a pinch or stored hanging on a wall, or even fold up. For me they solve all sorts of practical problems that muscle only bikes don't. Like not needing a shower when I get to work, being able to ride comfortably in rain gear without bathing in sweat, riding 10+ miles one way to work on studded tires (or just wide comfy safe tires) while enjoying it, or hauling 100 kg of people/stuff without dreading every hill, or having to tow a trailer (which let's be honest kind of sucks, though less so with e-assist). The biggest pro IMO is lowering the discomfort of the choice to not drive everywhere to the point where I actually ride shorter distances more often than not despite not being a young man anymore. It helps keep me in reasonable physical shape too. I'm not saying you should get an e-bike, but I'm firm in my belief that you shouldn't categorically disregard one as a practical transport option unless you've tried living with one at least for a little bit, especially if you're someone who's comfortable getting around on two wheels. If I only could keep a single vehicle and had to choose it would probably be the cargo e-bike, despite my kids being too big to ride double in the box anymore and mine not even being a nice modern one. That's cool that it works for you. E: sorry that was a bit flippant. Ebikes are just not something that's gonna work for me and for the prices on a good one, I'm not gonna just try it out. I'll sell the Matrix and pay off the new car a little earlier and go back to splitting my daily getting around between the Tacoma and whichever of my bicycles catches my fancy in the morning. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Feb 14, 2024 |
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Feb 14, 2024 19:17
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Work recently acquired a cargo van, a 2011 Chevy Express. Back has a bulkhead built in and tool racks, and thus no rear visibility. I hate backing this thing up. The only visibility is the side view wide angle mirrors, and straight behind is a mystery. You just gotta go slow and hope every other car gets out of the way, I guess. Any recommendations on an aftermarket backup camera? Could even be one that replaces the windshield mount rear view mirror, as that mirror isn't installed.
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Feb 14, 2024 21:31
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canyoneer posted:Work recently acquired a cargo van, a 2011 Chevy Express. Back has a bulkhead built in and tool racks, and thus no rear visibility. I hate backing this thing up. The only visibility is the side view wide angle mirrors, and straight behind is a mystery. You just gotta go slow and hope every other car gets out of the way, I guess. They're all pretty similar and honestly just going to your local a/v type place and seeing what they have on sale/free installation incentive is going to be your best bet.
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Feb 15, 2024 03:40
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I've got a frustration situation. Took delivery of a new car, in Nevada, December 23rd. I live in California, and the routine here when buying a new car out of state is that you go to the DMV, pay registration fees (including any difference in sales tax), then get the new car smogged, send all the paperwork back to the dealer, they then send more paperwork back to the CA DMV to wrap things up and you get plates etc. In the meantime, the DMV gives you temporary registration good for a few months. Mine's good until March 3rd. The problem: after about 1000 miles and a month or so, emissions monitors were finally ready for a test. Before I could get it in for a smog check the next day, it _also_ popped a check engine light, so there goes the smog check. P138C (issue with charge air cooler bypass position sensor). It seemed from searching around that it might be an intermittent or just new-car problem, and I had time, so I just reset the codes and tried again. Nearly 1000 miles later, the code was pending again, and monitors still not ready. So I scheduled a dealer appointment to have them look at it. Code popped again yesterday, appointment is today. And I've now got two weeks before I need to have it registered fully. This is a probably pretty uncommon situation, with across state lines purchasing and a new car not ready for smog, but hoping _someone_ has some clues here about what I can do here. I'm concerned that the dealer won't fix it properly fast enough, and even if they do, that codes will be cleared and I'll be back to square one getting ready for smog, and if that takes 1000 miles again it's just not gonna happen without me really going out of my way in the next two weeks. What the gently caress happens if I get past that time and I can't legally drive the car because it hasn't passed smog but I can't get it to pass smog without driving it a fuckload? What recourse do I have with the dealer/manufacturer here? The car's been otherwise great (well, aside from the infuriatingly inconsistent carplay connection). As an aside, I'm already pissed at the dealer service department; I live a decent drive away from the dealer, so it's kind of a pain to get home afterwards, and this is also my primary winter family vehicle (and a big storm is coming next week) and when I called to schedule the appointment last weekend I asked for a loaner (explaining both the time sensitive situation and the challenges with not getting one), the person I spoke with said they'd need a manager to determine that and they'd have them give me a call back on Monday. Call never came. I called earlier this week and got no response. I called again yesterday morning, was told they'd find the manager responsible and call me back. Much later in the day, finally got that call back and was informed that they couldn't give me a loaner today, would I like to reschedule? I don't have time to reschedule.
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Feb 16, 2024 16:26
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Have you been able to find what driving conditions the monitor is looking for?
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Feb 16, 2024 16:40
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