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Sorry for the double post but they are two different thoughts. I wound up winning a nice sum of jack from a superbowl pool and think I may splurge on a larger scale model. Is there a particular large scale ship or tank that's a simple enough build? I've been eyeing either one of the Andy's Hobby 1/16 tanks or something like a Revell Type XII U-Boat. Some of the large aircraft carriers look cool too.
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 15:41 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 17:34 |
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Revell's Flower-class Corvette comes in both 1/72 (old matchbox kit) and a more recent 1/144 tooling, either way a pretty sizable model and one I'd be tempted by if I ever break out of 1/700. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-00451-flower-class-corvette--1119664 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-05132-hmcs-snowberry--975160
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 15:55 |
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Does anyone have recommendations for painting dirty red brick using Vallejo?
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 19:01 |
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Southern Heel posted:Does anyone have recommendations for painting dirty red brick using Vallejo? Wash them before you prime.
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 20:36 |
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Lacquer attempter back with more questions: I've got a bottle of Tamiya Flat White. I also have a vortex mixer, so I mixed it up with that before spraying. I've read Tamiya is a 2-1 thinner to paint mix for lacquers, but even undiluted it seems really thin. I'm used to thinning acrylics but that generally feels like mixing water with a thicker solution. I tried spraying around 30 and then around 25 psi as it seemed very diluted. A few observations: 1) unthinned I seem to use a ton of paint to get a decent coat on a piece 2) thinned I see what looks like a wet coat buildup but very, very little pigment White was likely a bad choice for a first attempt. There was some gunk at the bottom of the jar that I freed up with my pipette and then I sent it through the vortex again. Any pointers? I could be doing things correctly and not being patient with thin coats, but unthinned I was seeing 10ish pipette drops only making the first mist coat on a single piece. Edit: Small update, tried out a dark blue at 2 paint : 1 thinner at 20 psi and it went on much more nicely, though maybe not as smooth as I was imagining. Could be I've been babied by the darker Vallegjo model air colors for too long Zodack fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Feb 14, 2024 |
# ? Feb 14, 2024 00:42 |
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Zodack posted:Lacquer attempter back with more questions: I've airbrushed tons of Tamiya lacquers and always mixed 1:1 paint to thinner and never had any issues spraying at around 18-20 psi. What are using for thinner? Obviously Tamiya lacquer thinner works great but my favorite was Mr Hobby leveling thinner. And like you said, white is always the most difficult color. My best tip for you with that is always spray white paint over white primer. If you're spraying over anything darker than white it's going to take a million coats which is not ideal for a number of reasons.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 05:50 |
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Like you guessed I'm using Tamiya's lacquer thinner, but I've got some Mr. Hobby Levelling Thinner in the mail. As for primer I was using the Tamiya rattlecan. I'm planning on doing highlighting with the white so we'll see if I can get the same results as a few youtubers I've watched. I've highlighted with acrylics in the past and the pigment in every acrylic white is just trash, so I'm looking forward to lacquer.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 06:04 |
Does anyone else use pledge floor polish for a gloss coat still? Not sure if they still make it but I have half a bottle left from one I’ve been using for years and on the last few models I’ve been having issues after it dries (airbrushed on) with a spotty finish. Not sure if I’d call it orange peel effect but it’s definitely not smooth. The only thing that’s changed recently is a new air compressor but I’m spraying at the same PSI so I’m not sure if that would be it. It hasn’t been a huge problem since after a matte coat once the decals are sealed in it looks fine, but I’d like to fix it if I could because I’ll need a final gloss instead of matte coat eventually. I may switch to a Vallejo or Mr. Color acrylic gloss eventually but want to finish this bottle first if possible.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 06:28 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Sorry for the double post but they are two different thoughts. I wound up winning a nice sum of jack from a superbowl pool and think I may splurge on a larger scale model. Is there a particular large scale ship or tank that's a simple enough build? I've been eyeing either one of the Andy's Hobby 1/16 tanks or something like a Revell Type XII U-Boat. Some of the large aircraft carriers look cool too. There's also the relatively new SM U-9 German WW1 Uboat in 1/72 from Das Werk, and buying it rewards a team that sent divers into the ocean to record dimensions and details from the only reachable wreck!
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 10:06 |
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take a nun to a jungle and she comes out a bloodthirsty heiress
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 10:18 |
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@Mr E: Future/Pledge floor polish/whatever definitely goes bad over time. They do make it still, but I'm not sure what it's called this week. I'd recommend moving to a dedicated model gloss coat. Everyone has their own preference, but I prefer Alclad Aqua Gloss.Synthbuttrange posted:take a nun to a jungle and she comes out a bloodthirsty heiress Yes.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 11:08 |
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I have no idea why or how this ended up in this page. having too many tabs open probably.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 11:34 |
Chuck_D posted:@Mr E: Future/Pledge floor polish/whatever definitely goes bad over time. They do make it still, but I'm not sure what it's called this week. I'd recommend moving to a dedicated model gloss coat. Everyone has their own preference, but I prefer Alclad Aqua Gloss. That's kind of what I figured. I've more than got my money's worth out of it so I'll swap to a dedicated gloss coat for models with my latest kit.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 15:53 |
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I can second Alclad Aqua Gloss. I also used pledge future before switching. Same ideology, if I'm putting a lot of work and specific paint and technique into a model I might as well finish it with a formula dedicated for models as well.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 16:00 |
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NTRabbit posted:There's also the relatively new SM U-9 German WW1 Uboat in 1/72 from Das Werk, and buying it rewards a team that sent divers into the ocean to record dimensions and details from the only reachable wreck! Thanks a bunch for this. I am absolutely buying one of these soon. I wound up going with a 1/16 Andy's Hobby/Takom Sherman after reading and watching so many good reviews on them. I've a feeling after building this one, it'll send me down the 1/16 worm hole.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 18:22 |
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Zodack posted:I can second Alclad Aqua Gloss. I also used pledge future before switching. Same ideology, if I'm putting a lot of work and specific paint and technique into a model I might as well finish it with a formula dedicated for models as well. The fact that not only do they keep changing the name of Future/Klear/Pledge but that its formula keeps changing even while under the same branding is enough to ensure that it's really not fit for purpose anymore if you can't rely on it not messing up the finish of your model. I've been using Aqua Gloss for years, but I recently got some VMS gloss and AK intermediate gauzy agent to try out too.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 18:47 |
tidal wave emulator posted:The fact that not only do they keep changing the name of Future/Klear/Pledge but that its formula keeps changing even while under the same branding is enough to ensure that it's really not fit for purpose anymore if you can't rely on it not messing up the finish of your model. Yeah I definitely wouldn't trust buying a new bottle at this point since it seems to change every 6 months. I haven't used their gloss but I've had great luck with AK's more specialty stuff like their metal colors.
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# ? Feb 14, 2024 20:33 |
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Holy poo poo the 1/16 Sherman is huge. Its really badass. The quality of the kit seems very high though and thus far it's gone together quite easily. This is my first experience with Takom and I'm impressed.
ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Feb 15, 2024 |
# ? Feb 14, 2024 23:31 |
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It's seriously loving gigantic. A 1/35th Sherman fits neatly into the hull tub with room to spare on all sides.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 00:39 |
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I am very much enjoying the 1/16 sherman myself, so much so I pre-ordered the greyhound. I picked up the Stug as well during black Friday.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 01:46 |
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Cross posting in search of some adviceTin Tim posted:Somewhat related but does anyone have experience with old transparent stickers like these?
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 02:43 |
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Looking closer at it, yeah that seems to be what they want you to do. There's no color on them just the outlines so you've got to paint them up like old animation cels used to be done.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 03:08 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Holy poo poo the 1/16 Sherman is huge. Its really badass. The quality of the kit seems very high though and thus far it's gone together quite easily. This is my first experience with Takom and I'm impressed. Oh yeah, 1/16 tanks are chonky bois. I put a Series X controller against the hull for scale. I’m actually looking at the M4A3 Sherman as my next 1/16 scale project. My Tiger was done over such a long time period with so many sins of the past to deal with I’m eager to see what I can create from scratch with all the knowledge and experience I have now. Plus the properties that made the Sherman easy to transport over the Atlantic make it equally easy for me to store and transport.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 15:18 |
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Your Tiger looks very good! I am putting the finishing touches on a 1/35 Tiger now (I may post pics, but it's nothing like some of you folks are capable of!) otherwise I'd of ordered one of those to start my 1/16 journey. My LHS also happened to have the Sherman in stock, so I figured it was a good one to start with. I'm so impressed with the build and my enjoyment of it so far that I am almost certainly going to be doing more of the Andy's Hobby line. Definitely the Tiger, but I may do the M8 next as it'll be out by the time I'm finished with the Sherman. I'm a longtime r/c car builder, so the larger scale stuff seems to work well for me and is more in my wheelhouse. Some of the smaller scale tank parts drive me crazy trying to glue, so I'm enjoying how even the smallest parts on this Sherman are still not that small. Building the tank treads are gonna be fun though. Hooo boy that's a lotta sprue. This is going to be the first kit that I go hog wild on trying to weather. The larger scale of it makes it less intimidating to me for some reason.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 15:49 |
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Currently looking for some affordable 1/16 infantry so that we can rent a field and play super scale Chain of Command
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 16:36 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Your Tiger looks very good! Thank you! If you’re experienced with R/C cars and are more comfortable building at a larger scale you should consider getting into R/C tanks. They aren’t the cheapest thing on the planet but they’re rewarding projects that offer a chance to really make it your own. You can get out as much as you put in, and some opt to go super duper accurate down to the most minute details, while others are happy to get them working to a decent standard out of the box and go plowing through some mud somewhere. There’s a number of companies that produce them but there are four main ones that you’ll commonly see:
Most popular is Heng Long, followed by Taigen. Tamiya and Mato are much rarer due to the substantial price difference. My particular Tiger started out as a Heng Long, but is the Ship of Theseus by this point and is all Taigen, except with the only remaining part of the original tank being the tow ropes on the left side of the hull, which are in the pipeline to be replaced. To get the best of both worlds I’m looking at getting the all plastic Heng Long M4 Sherman, and then mating the upper hull, turret and electronics with a Taigen metal lower hull and running gear. It does require some modification to work, so I’m not pulling the trigger just yet.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 17:21 |
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Thank you for that very insightful post as to the differences in rc tanks. I’ve long eyed the Tamiya kits and recently was looking to Heng Long. I’ve been trying to stay out of rc tanning because I know I’ll go hog wild and I’m actually quite enjoying how comparatively cheap the 1/16 static models are! Here are some photos of a recent 1/14 log truck I built. It’s a modified Cross RC HC6. It is MASSIVE. Also some shots of buddies heavy hauling trucks that they recently built. That scale MAZ, when loaded with the wood, weighs about 70 lbs total! https://imgur.com/a/lrq1tbp Anyways thanks again for the tank write up. I’m saving that post for personal reference. One day I know I will wind up building a tamiya tank. I recently build one of their 1/14 Globe Liner semi trucks and with the full lights and sound, I think I had 1k in just the tractor portion of the build!
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 17:38 |
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Synthbuttrange posted:Looking closer at it, yeah that seems to be what they want you to do. There's no color on them just the outlines so you've got to paint them up like old animation cels used to be done. The way I currently picture would be to cut them out with a bit of an edge around them so that there is some glue left to stick them with after painting. Because when I think about painting them and then sticking them with super glue I expect all kinds of disasters could happen
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 17:45 |
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Lord Ludikrous posted:I’m eager to see what I can create from scratch with all the knowledge and experience I have now. I think this is one of the best parts of the hobby. Every other skill adheres to this, of course, but I think modeling really puts it on display when you look at the difference between your attempts to achieve various effects, and even just the speed at which you do things.
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 18:12 |
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I think this discussion about large scale remote control is probably the most interested. I’ve been in this thread in awhile. I’ve seen those YouTube videos showing various construction vehicles and trucks on giant layouts in exhibition halls and always thought they were so cool. I myself have had limited success in building, live steam traction engines and locomotives - I wonder if an RC kit is a better choice to get me started?
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 19:16 |
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I cannot assist you much in the discussion on steam engines or trains as I'm not into that. I know a bit about r/c construction equipment and a decent amount about r/c semi trucking though. It's amazing the level of complexity and detail you can in many r/c kits these days. The price for the super scale, niche stuff can get up there....but it's cheaper than full size! That's what I tell myself, anyways. Here are pics of the 1/14 Tamiya Globe Liner semi truck tractor I built last year. Had full lights and sound, and I installed an engine shaker unit to where when the truck was "running", the truck would indeed shake like it was idling. I built this truck be an off-highway style hauler. Wound up selling it though to go with the heavy duty Cross R/C truck that I showed in my last post. I did the truck in colors to match my Tacoma.
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 20:48 |
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I know it's well done because the first few pics screwed with my sense of scale.
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 21:59 |
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I finished my first Tiger. This is a 1/35 Tamiya. I need to do some paint clean up but I’m happy for babby’s first tiger.
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 23:16 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Thank you for that very insightful post as to the differences in rc tanks. I’ve long eyed the Tamiya kits and recently was looking to Heng Long. I’ve been trying to stay out of rc tanning because I know I’ll go hog wild and I’m actually quite enjoying how comparatively cheap the 1/16 static models are! Glad you found the information helpful, honestly those trucks of yours are incredible and I for one am very interested to see what you could accomplish when let loose on an R/C tank. I did have more info but didn’t want to overwhelm you with a wall of text, but hopefully this will be helpful to you and others. Heng Long One thing I should stress that if you are shopping for Heng Long, make sure it’s a v7.0. Anything older than that should be avoided. Typically Heng Long tanks are available in the following different grades:
Heng Long produces a wide variety of American, German and Russian WW2 tanks with most of the main ones covered. Their cold war range is limited to a couple of T-72 variations, but all the more well known modern tanks (i.e M1 Abrams, Leopard 2, Challenger 2, T-90, Merkava etc) are available as well. Taigen/Torro On the Taigen/Torro front you’re after V3 as anything older is significantly out of date. With that being said, V3 has been around since 2019 and has not been superseded which is a big reason why Heng Long is so far ahead. Their ready to run and unpainted kits come in either IR or airsoft versions. Unlike Heng Long, they sometimes offer different variations of the same tank (i.e. early/late Tiger 1, Panther G/F) in a variety of colour schemes. Limited runs with a wooden storage crate are also available. Unpainted “build it yourself” kits are available either with or without a control board or transmitter for those who want to use a more advanced aftermarket board. Taigen tanks all feature a metal lower hull, all metal running gear (with rubber tyres if applicable), plastic upper hull and a metal turret. They also tend to replicate or closely simulate the suspension systems of the actual tanks; Panthers and Tigers for example have torsion bar suspension, while the T-34 has sprung suspension swing arms much like the Christie suspension of the real tank. Models with unsupported tracks (no return rollers) come with adjustable idler systems. Build quality and durability absolutely blows Heng Long away but they’re more expensive and let down by their electronics. For example, a Heng Long Pro King Tiger can be had for £290; the Taigen unpainted kit without a control board or transmitter is £400. Control and movement is not nearly as progressive or realistic as Heng Long, and the sounds ramp up in stages rather then being smooth flowing increases with throttle input. Sounds are more accurate to the tank though, as they sell sound modules for different models, but on balance the Heng Longs are more convincing. They cannot support IR and airsoft in the same tank, and while its possible to convert one to the other, it involves replacing a lot of the turret internals and wiring to the control board. Their range is considerably more limited than Heng Long and heavily geared toward German armour. Soviet options include the IS2 and T-34 85, but all the Americans get is the M4A3 75 and 76. Meanwhile on the German side their range includes the Tiger 1, King Tiger, Panzer III, Panzer IV, Panther G, Panther F, Jagdpanther and Jagdtiger. The only non-WW2 option is the Leopard 2A6. While they don’t seem in a hurry to expand their range, replacement and upgrade parts are readily available, so if anything does break or wear out on your tank you’ll be able to fix it without too much hassle. Tongde Theres a new player called Tongde who entered the market recently targeting the upper Heng Long segment with plastic bodies and metal running gear, but they’re exploiting the stagnation in the market and releasing models haven’t had R/C releases before. Within the last year or two they’ve released the M60A3, Centurion Mk5, M2 Bradley, and are about to release the Churchill Mk VII. Its really nice to see some British tanks for a change, and I personally am hoping they release the Comet. Good starting models For the most part the WW2 models are all safe choices if you want to start getting into R/C tanks, with only a few models being problematic. The first Heng Long (and Taigen) release and still the most popular today is the Tiger 1, and this is a really good way to get into the hobby, especially if you opt to go with Taigen. The large boxy hull has a lot of interior space to fit all the gubbins you want, and theres a huge range of parts and extras available. With both being shameless rip offs of the Tamiya kit, you can easily mix and match between Heng Long and Taigen. Its very common for people to get the Heng Long version then replace the lower hull and running gear with Taigen. Other good starting models:
The best option if you can spare the cash is to build a Taigen model and then get one of the advanced aftermarket control boards and install one of those (i.e. Clark or El-Mod). I'd go into more detail but this post is long enough and its really late. There is of course the other end of the market.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 02:48 |
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Chuck_D posted:@Mr E: Future/Pledge floor polish/whatever definitely goes bad over time. They do make it still, but I'm not sure what it's called this week. I'd recommend moving to a dedicated model gloss coat. Everyone has their own preference, but I prefer Alclad Aqua Gloss. Pledge with Future is gone as of January 2022, though there is apparently an heir to the title: https://jonbius.com/2023/02/01/a-replacement-for-pledge-here-it-is/
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 01:21 |
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Midjack posted:Pledge with Future is gone as of January 2022, though there is apparently an heir to the title: https://jonbius.com/2023/02/01/a-replacement-for-pledge-here-it-is/ With all the searching for the holy grail of the original Future floor wax, I'm surprised nobody has come up with a homebrew solution. Could it be something as simple as gloss acrylic, wax, and a thinner? Thinking about it makes me want to do some testing with clear (platinum/ultra blonde) shellac flakes dissolved in denatured alcohol. It would be interesting to see how they coat and how shellac holds up to mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 19, 2024 |
# ? Feb 19, 2024 01:46 |
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Not sure where to ask but maybe someone here knows if there's a better place -- can anyone hook me up with some train schematics? It's the kind of thing I figure might be trivial to pull up for those in the know, but I don't have the first clue where to look. More specifically, I gotta make a digital 3D model of a Japanese/Korean commuter train, something that'd have been active in the 1970s-1990s window. Just browsing through wikipedia, one like this is sort of what I have in mind: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/169_series But I don't have any hard preference. If there's one with good reference pictures inside+out in addition to schematics that'd be best.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 09:28 |
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Lord Ludikrous posted:Fantastic r/c tank info Thanks a bunch for this! I've saved all of this as reference material too. It's fantastic reference material for someone that's a potential babby r/c tanker. I'm definitely going to be getting one of these, just not sure which!
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 15:33 |
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Koramei posted:Not sure where to ask but maybe someone here knows if there's a better place -- can anyone hook me up with some train schematics? It's the kind of thing I figure might be trivial to pull up for those in the know, but I don't have the first clue where to look. I don't have a specific reference for you but there has gotta be something like that in the Japanese or Korean language parts of the internet. Maybe also cruise Amazon.co.jp
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 22:57 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 17:34 |
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Does this help? https://ameblo.jp/bgfps870/image-12472224629-14844384678.html I think it's a 165 series but I don't do Japanese.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 23:17 |