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The Slack Lagoon posted:I've been making do with a miter saw, circular saw, and hand tools, but I'd like to get a table saw. I have a somewhat small space to work with - what's the current go-to suggestion for a portable tablesaw? What’s your budget?
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 00:14 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 06:02 |
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Schiavona posted:What’s your budget? Flexible but preferably less than $700. It's looking like the DeWalt DWE7491RS might be the best option? Looks like it can be found for $550 around me
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 01:34 |
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The Dewalt jobsite saw is great for what it is, and the rack and pinion fence is fantastic.
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 02:15 |
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Get it while it's hot. Lucky for you the lowest price I've seen in a long time dropped today. https://slickdeals.net/f/17290540-d...iteSearchV2Algo
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 02:30 |
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That was the first saw I bought and it was great, and $440 is a really really good deal
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 03:05 |
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I finally got around to taking pictures of the Appalachian ladderback chairs I built in the Autumn. Ladderback #1, this one is a Tim Manney design. Made from walnut with a danish cord seat. You can see where I mis-drilled the bottom two side rungs in the back legs and had to plug the holes. I also managed to blow out a piece of the back leg during assembly by hammering one of the rungs in way too hard. Managed to fix it though, a good learning experience. It is fairly comfortable, the back slats could use more curve to them. Ladderback #2, this is a Jennie Alexander chair. Made from cherry with a shaker tape seat. I think I may have put the top back slat in upside down. I also lost a leg during bent laminating as my laminations were too thick and broke. I didn't have a big enough piece of cherry to re-make the legs using sequentially cut laminations so if you look closely you can see the laminations. The least comfortable of the trio, but still pretty nice to sit in. Ladderback #3, this is a Brian Bogg's ladderback. Made from walnut with a reed seat. The nicest looking and most comfortable of the three. Also the most complex as every leg splays out in both directions. I saved it for last, and I'm glad I did because it was the most complex, but there was no major headaches. My wife did the weaving for all three seats. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 13, 2024 |
# ? Feb 13, 2024 04:31 |
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Bob Mundon posted:Get it while it's hot. Lucky for you the lowest price I've seen in a long time dropped today. Wow, thanks for this.
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 05:11 |
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your "worst" chair is nicer than anything I've ever made, lol
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 06:00 |
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Wow those chairs are incredible
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 06:03 |
psh you guys should see my 3 legged milking stool
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 06:34 |
jk that chairs look great have you ever designed your own? I bet you could easily do it
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 06:35 |
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Leperflesh posted:your "worst" chair is nicer than anything I've ever made, lol This but everything in the thread
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 16:58 |
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Thanks all, the only chair I've "designed" was a low back Maloof chair that I built from pictures. It's not very comfortable, so I've stuck with plans since. I could probably do a ladderback, I think I have my head wrapped around the angles and stuff, but to my eye I don't think I could really improve the Bogg's chair. It's also so drat comfortable that I know anything I make would likely be less comfortable and not look as good.
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# ? Feb 13, 2024 18:08 |
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Hey folks. I found an old coffee table, "upcycled" and painted ghastly gray by its previous owners. Gel remover and scraping got most of it but there's still some paint residue in the deep grain. The surface is very thin oak veneer, so I'm wary of sanding. Do you know how I might get to the last bit of paint?
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 14:52 |
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anatomi posted:Hey folks. I found an old coffee table, "upcycled" and painted ghastly gray by its previous owners. Brass wire brush
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# ? Feb 15, 2024 15:30 |
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I feel like I see end grain chopping boards that have thin strips in the pattern whose grain runs along the board. Are there any issues with this provided they're kept thin? Some are so small I think they'd snap otherwise.
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 21:15 |
As someone who uses end grain cutting boards, I've never seen what you're describing and I would expect the swell to cause cracks at the glue if you have random grain direction. Not to mention the whole reason you want end grain is for edge retention, which to me is all or nothing. Just throw in different wood for patterns
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# ? Feb 16, 2024 21:23 |
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They're going to crack regardless, you don't really see any old endgrain cutting boards that aren't like five inches thick with a big external frame and bolts running through them to keep the whole thing intact. Very few of the cutting/charcuterie boards you see at farmers markets and stuff with the cute wood patterns or lasercut poo poo wee put together with any thought to longevity, they'll just fall apart in a couple years but if you really want to they're not hard to glue back together
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 17, 2024 |
# ? Feb 17, 2024 00:29 |
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You can keep them from coming apart by not letting them get wet. Most people have a hard time not letting their cutting boards get wet regularly but you can do it if you're serious about keeping your expensive cutting board nice for a long time. You can wipe it down with a sponge to clean but you should not put a lot of water on it when you do that, and you should dry it, and if it's not at least an inch thick (or even if it is) always get both sides equally moist so it's less likely to try to warp from one side swelling while the other side doesn't. That warping puts enormous pressure on the glue joints. Also old-timey endgrain cutting boards were not glued up with titebond III, which is kind of a miracle substance.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 00:32 |
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My homemade end-grain cutting board is still going strong a decade after I made it. It's roughly an inch thick, all end-grain maple and walnut, titebond 3. I only ever use one side of it, and only bother washing that side, and haven't had any issues (apologies for the flash photo) To be clear, the steps Leperflesh describes are certainly not going to hurt the longevity of what you make. They're just clearly not mandatory in all cases.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 01:13 |
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Even on antique stuff you're more likely to see endgrain splitting across the wood than along the glue line, it's just so much weaker and so much more efficient at slurping up moisture that odds favor it popping *somewhere* eventually. You can rewax it every single time you use it and dab gently with mineral spirits only or maybe just get lucky but i think most likely you'll be much happier regarding them as a consumable you might have to fix or change every so often than some kind of heirloom item
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Feb 17, 2024 |
# ? Feb 17, 2024 02:04 |
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:I feel like I see end grain chopping boards that have thin strips in the pattern whose grain runs along the board. Are there any issues with this provided they're kept thin? Some are so small I think they'd snap otherwise. You could do what you describe with a very thin crossgrain strip and not break any rules of wood movement. That strip would be very fragile and have a relatively weak glue bond to the rest of the board as it would be an endgrain to side grain glue joint. Probably what you have seen is long grain strips glued in, which does break some rules of wood movement but if the endgrain woods are relatively stable like cherry or walnut and the board is less than idk 16" or so you can probably get away with it for some amount of time. Eventually it will almost certainly fail as either the glue bonds break or the wood next to the glue bonds gives up from repeated stress, but that might be in 20 years or it might be in 2 months.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 02:10 |
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For the record, the guide I followed for learning to do the "drunken checkerboard" pattern for my pictured cutting board? It had long-grain strips between each of the squares. I omitted that for simplicity's sake, since the glue-up was already pushing the limits of what I was capable of back then. It was certainly an aesthetic improvement to have that border effect, but for sure it'd also be a point of weakness.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 02:30 |
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my first ever project was an endgrain cutting board i kinda hosed up the pattern a little bit when i did it, but i like it. gives it character. weirdly i remember it being prone to warping when wet when i first made it, but now? rock solid. it has little rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from moving on the counter, and for that, it is my favorite cutting board. ...now i want to make another cutting board. gently caress.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 02:36 |
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It was plaid pattern boards that I'd seen where I figured it would have been too onerous to cut endgrain strips that thin. I'm working on a basketweave one at the moment where it's all going to be endgrain and about 2" thick - a big reason for doing it myself is I want the board thicker than is commonly offered commercially. In terms of internet boards I see a lot of them made with oak, and the very first thing I ever read about making them was "don't use oak because the open grain is unhygienic".
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 05:46 |
oak has big pores. so do a bunch of the exotics I get ahold of (Padauk )
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 06:28 |
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Mederlock posted:Brass wire brush This is what the surface looks like beneath the paint. Am I way off base for thinking that the blushing might be because of excessive sanding?
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 09:43 |
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:They're going to crack regardless, you don't really see any old endgrain cutting boards that aren't like five inches thick with a big external frame and bolts running through them to keep the whole thing intact. Very few of the cutting/charcuterie boards you see at farmers markets and stuff with the cute wood patterns or lasercut poo poo wee put together with any thought to longevity, they'll just fall apart in a couple years but if you really want to they're not hard to glue back together I have an end grain cutting board made in 1997 or 1998, my parents have the twin that was made for them, both are still whole, mine has started to split at one end recently. Along a glue line. e: I do wash mine with water and that's probably why it's splitting vs my parents one that's whole still, they don't oil theirs so it's started looking greyish. Both made from pine. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Feb 17, 2024 |
# ? Feb 17, 2024 11:33 |
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Mine will be massaranduba and maple, based on what was available at the reclaimed wood place. I wouldn't be surprised if the massaranduba dulls knife edges though because it seems incredibly dense. I would have used walnut but by comparison it seems so much more expensive.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 12:37 |
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If anyone hasn't read it, Schwarz's Anarchists Design Book is now a 100% free PDF download. This book was my biggest influence in how I like to do woodworking. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2024/02/13/free-download-now-forever-the-anarchists-design-book/
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 14:27 |
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It's a fantastic book for the aspiring hand tool woodworker. Plenty of great forms to make as is or tweak for your own use. I've been meaning to try some of the nailed pieces.
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 15:11 |
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Fantastic book. The only thing I’ve made that I like (a bookshelf-table thing) is patterned after all of the boarded stuff in there. Love it. Forged nails are cool
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 16:16 |
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anatomi posted:Thanks! It worked quite well. Yeah brass wire brushes are my go-to scrubbers, I use em for everything
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# ? Feb 17, 2024 16:20 |
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Have a bunch of long veneer matching to do so I made a quick and dirty straightline veneer cutting jig for the slider: Works freakin great: This was on 1/18” white oak, haven’t tried it on thinner stuff yet but I hope it works just as well. This was kind of a proof of concept and only has ~9” of capacity (all I needed for this job anyway) and can’t crosscut and is a bit slow to open/close with the wing nuts. I’ll probably build a larger one in the future based on this: http://themiracleveneertrimmer.com/ It looks like it uses some clever opposing wedges to lock everything down which would be alot faster and it is open for crosscuts.
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# ? Feb 18, 2024 00:30 |
I read half that book today thanks for posting it
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# ? Feb 18, 2024 04:56 |
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Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top. After the first coat dried I went back and there were depressions in the wood where the pyramids were. I would expect some slight marring of the finish, but there were depressions in the top, which was only on the pyramids before the finish was applied. Is this just because this is soft wood? Kind of annoying.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 15:02 |
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HappyHippo posted:Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top. I use them all the time but I've never had them dent even soft wood.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 15:26 |
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HappyHippo posted:Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top. How many pyramids did you use vs how heavy is the table top?
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 15:31 |
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HappyHippo posted:Anyone use painter's pyramids? I was finishing a coffee table top, and I had just gotten these for that exact purpose. The top is I believe Douglas fir. I did a coat of wipe-on poly first on the bottom and then flipped it over and did a coat on the top.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 15:58 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 06:02 |
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esquilax posted:How many pyramids did you use vs how heavy is the table top? I used all 10, it's not a particularly heavy table top, 17x32", 1" thick. But I don't think they all made contact. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Dougfir earlywood is suuuper soft and I imagine that's the issue. You can put a little painter's tape over the tip of the pyramid to cushion it a little bit which usually helps. Ok hopefully that's the issue. I can just finish this off without using them, I'll save them for hardwoods.
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# ? Feb 19, 2024 16:04 |