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Catatron Prime posted:+1 for the Bambu If you like the Bambu slicer, you should have a look at Orca. They're a little more active with development and tend to bring out new features more quickly. It also has a few more options than the Bambu version, stuff like the measurement tool (ported over from Prusa). I still use both versions but I definitely prefer Orca for my day-to-day printing.
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Feb 16, 2024 18:15
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Acid Reflux posted:If you like the Bambu slicer, you should have a look at Orca. They're a little more active with development and tend to bring out new features more quickly. It also has a few more options than the Bambu version, stuff like the measurement tool (ported over from Prusa). I still use both versions but I definitely prefer Orca for my day-to-day printing. They also have a bug in calculating / enforcing max volumetric rate that has stopped me from moving over to it. So YMMV
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Feb 16, 2024 22:05
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Interesting, I actually hadn't seen that talked about anywhere. Can't say as I've had any trouble with it, but will definitely keep an eye on things to see if any symptoms pop up.
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Feb 16, 2024 22:31
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I just cleaned out my print head after 4-5 failed prints in a row and I discovered all sorts of melted plastic that was the same color I was using in between the head and its silicone sock. How did it even get there? My nozzle was screwed in tight.
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Feb 17, 2024 00:14
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Did you screw it in tight after it was hot?
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Feb 17, 2024 00:17
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Recently I decided I really want a small plastic USS Missouri. However, all the STLs I can find are extreme low poly game tokens  OR a fastidiously detailed 1:1 rendition of the entire ship, down to the railings and antennae  the latter being hilariously unsuited to FDM at any kind of scale where it fits on a print bed. However, because I make good decisions, I am trying to see what kind of a print I can hamfist out of it anyway:  I cranked up horizontal expansion to try and brute force some of the tinier spindly stuff I care about, like the turret barrels. Looking forward to seeing what I can peel out of the tree supports in a couple hours 
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Feb 17, 2024 00:37
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Aside from the time rapido sent me a nozzle that physically would not accept 1.75mm filament into the top, I did my usual hot tighten process ... And the nozzle basically fell off a couple prints later after getting goop everywhere. Looked up what they want and they actually want you to ramp up temps to 280c and tighten then. Did so and cranked it down and it's been solid so far
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Feb 17, 2024 00:39
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I have absolutely hosed that up enough times that I always eyeball the heat block down through the top of the hot end for the first few prints after a nozzle change, just so I can catch that filament booger before it becomes a mess and fix my mistake
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Feb 17, 2024 00:57
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Bad Munki posted:Did you screw it in tight after it was hot? Yup.
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Feb 17, 2024 01:42
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kid sinister posted:Yup. So, it's more than just "nozzle tight into heat block". Here is advice about this I posted in a different thread, that may or may not apply to whatever printer you have which I currently forget Javid posted:Not personally familiar with that printer, but the hot end
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Feb 17, 2024 02:50
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Javid posted:Looking forward to seeing what I can peel out of the tree supports in a couple hours results exceeded expectations (less parts than I expected came off with the supports)  good enough to justify trying again at the hugest size my printer can fit with better filament tomorrow!
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Feb 17, 2024 06:21
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I have just went through the propably most frustrating week of troubleshooting with my printer since I got it. Nothing worked for a while and it took way too long to figure it out. Awful ringing, resonance compensation somehow didn't work again, took days to fix and only mostly. Then my spool holder and the cardboard spools being used by many suppliers just stopped working together, so I mounted the holder to a higher position (it's mounted on the wall of the enclosure) and printed a plastic insert to make it slip more. Meanwhile I printed up a bento box filter and getting that all wired up was a hassle and a half, leading me to finally order some wire strippers, shrink tube and assorted other stuff. Now everything finally works but a print failed 3 times in a row because of what I only realized the last time is temperature creep inside the enclosure. It stopped sticking to the bed and thus lead to layer shifting  guess the only way to fix that is by opening the door a smidge, at least the bento seems to actually work very well, I've noticed a big difference.
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Feb 17, 2024 07:47
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Javid posted:So, it's more than just "nozzle tight into heat block". Here is advice about this I posted in a different thread, that may or may not apply to whatever printer you have which I currently forget Yeah, it’s likely to be this if it’s the standard kind of E3D clone hot end setup. The heat block has to be screwed far enough onto the heatbreak that when the nozzle is completely tight, you can see the nozzle has not bottomed out against the bottom of the heat block.
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Feb 17, 2024 08:50
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I know its kind of a gimmick hotend, but this discussion reminds me why I like the Revo I put on my Prusa Mini so much. Swap nozzles and never worry about this particular issue (& so far the 0.4 nozzle for it is holding up very well and I haven't needed to replace it yet).
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Feb 17, 2024 12:38
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Some Pinko Commie posted:I know its kind of a gimmick hotend, but this discussion reminds me why I like the Revo I put on my Prusa Mini so much. Huh, how was the swap overall, any profile screwiness or spending a bunch of time in software to get it going nicely? Having a hot swap system would be super nice because I want to do some high detail stuff but 
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Feb 17, 2024 15:17
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NewFatMike posted:Huh, how was the swap overall, any profile screwiness or spending a bunch of time in software to get it going nicely? The Revo swap on my MK3S+ was super smooth. Running the wire through the extruder cable sleeve is a pain, but not a huge deal. The only issues I had were unrelated to the hotend swap (my filament sensor died at the same time and it took me a while to figure out why). Specifically for the MK3S, I’d suggest changing the part cooling fan duct too. The Delta P style duct works very well with the Revo (you can see the nozzle better and it’s very open to get your fingers in there).
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Feb 17, 2024 15:41
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I don't expect anyone wants these but - I have two original Ender 3 pro motherboards and screens from when I upgraded mine. I can check what revisions the boards are, but they're old. If someone in the continental USA could use them, lmk and I'll drop them in the mail. Otherwise I'm going to dispose of them. (I hung onto them for a while after the upgrades in case I needed to revert but everything has been working fine for a while now.)
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Feb 17, 2024 19:26
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What's the clean up for using the old glue stick method for improving bed adhesion?
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Feb 17, 2024 22:51
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Take the bed off the printer, wash it in the sink with dish soap, then air-dry. This is good to do regularly whether you use glue or not, because flushing the bed with detergent removes oil and dirt much more effectively than the oft-recommended wiping it down with alcohol.
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Feb 17, 2024 23:17
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^ thanks! What are the consequences of printing without the silicone sock? I just tore mine.
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Feb 17, 2024 23:22
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Very little. The sock is mostly just to keep plastic from getting melted onto the heat block if a print fails. If the prints are working properly, that isn't an issue. It can probably just be removed if you want. The sock also in some printer designs insulates the heat block against the part cooling fan. Ideally the part cooling fan duct should be designed to not blow onto the heat block, but some ducts are poorly designed. You'll be able to tell if this is the case if you see a noticeable drop in temperature right after the cooling fan comes on. If you do, you should replace a damaged sock, but I recommend getting a different duct design.
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Feb 17, 2024 23:49
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A torn one still works, it just may or may not stay put of its own accord. Even then, you have options.
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Feb 18, 2024 00:12
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Yeah... Mine tore in a spiral. 
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Feb 18, 2024 00:52
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NewFatMike posted:Huh, how was the swap overall, any profile screwiness or spending a bunch of time in software to get it going nicely? For the Mini? Negligible impact. Remove some bits and bobs, mount the new holder, plug the heater and thermistor into the clips at the hotend assembly, start printing. I made zero changes to print profiles/etc. Everything Just Works. E3D has specific Revo kits for the Prusa Mini and MK3, though, so having an extremely smooth swap process is to be expected. Edit: I could probably push the Mini to print even faster since it's a much lighter hotend assembly now but I figure if things run smooth I shouldn't gently caress with anything other than quality of life upgrades.
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Feb 18, 2024 04:28
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Oooh I’m gonna keep an eye on that. I love my mini and giving it a bit of love with an upgrade after all these years sounds nice.
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Feb 18, 2024 06:02
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Sagebrush posted:Very little. The sock is mostly just to keep plastic from getting melted onto the heat block if a print fails. If the prints are working properly, that isn't an issue. It can probably just be removed if you want. There is no way to cool a part without also cooling the hotend because of that jerk Bernoulli inventing physics. However it should not be enough to affect printing at lower temps. Once you get into ABS temps, no sock likely means you have to slow things down. deimos fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Feb 18, 2024 |
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Feb 18, 2024 11:13
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That glue stick trick actually worked! You guys didn't tell me that I'd be able to put back supports that broke off with it mid-print.
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Feb 19, 2024 00:23
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We currently use Prusa slicer at work to set up resin prints sometimes, because we have to use proprietary slicers with our commercial printers and they're often pretty lousy. Prusa is good in particular for auto-supports that Just Work and leave a nice finish on parts without further processing, we set up the job using an in-house support profile I rigged up, and then we export everything to STL and drop it into the proprietary slicer for actual printing. Is there anything that's better than Prusa in this regard, including paid options? I wasn't impressed with Lychee, it's got lots of support profiles and almost all of them seem kind of pointless + its default support behaviour isn't as good as Prusa's is, imo. I want something that has the best auto-supports possible because the people setting up print jobs often don't understand the process very well and may not intuitively understand how to support a given part in a given orientation. Not sure how much we'd shell out for it, but probably not, like, thousands of dollars.
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Feb 19, 2024 20:32
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They’re probably all out of the price range, but Autodesk Netfabb, Materialise Magics (and their less fancy stuff) and Dassault’s DELMIA Additive Manufacturing Engineer all come to mind for build prep software. I don’t think Fusion has a layout and support generation setup, unfortunately.
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Feb 19, 2024 20:53
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so its been 50 days since january 1st, so far the train hasn't slowed down and I'm at an average sales of 574/day every day since then. its so busy, just total nuts now. up to 9 P1Ps and 6 mono X2's, all going full bore. ive had 0 time to work on my website or do any research for trade shows,.
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Feb 20, 2024 20:34
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Have you said what you're printing at all? We've been thinking about doing something over here in Australia but short of wargaming terrain, I want to do more practical prints as well due to my background and I'm curious what others are doing.
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Feb 20, 2024 21:15
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literally wargaming terrain haha, that plus minis. just a never ending stream of orders. I really want to get into some scifi/cyberpunk stuff but I dont know what patreons/companies are good for that yet.
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Feb 20, 2024 21:56
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Curvus do some stuff, Saucerman do some neat stuff and printable scenery does some that might tie in. Glad to hear it's working for you mate!
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Feb 20, 2024 22:37
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yeah i tried reaching out to corvus and never got a reply twice, dunno whats up with that. Oh saucerman looks cool, I'll check them out, and yeah i need to add the bit of printable scenery scifi stuff too good call
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Feb 20, 2024 22:57
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Sci-fi scenery will end up on 40k tables so that's probably a ton of stuff. I think every game store I've been to lately is either GW stuff, 3d printed or someone's hobby hour with a styrofoam cutter.
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Feb 20, 2024 23:17
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queeb posted:yeah i tried reaching out to corvus and never got a reply twice, dunno whats up with that. Oh saucerman looks cool, I'll check them out, and yeah i need to add the bit of printable scenery scifi stuff too good call If you haven't, try reaching out of messenger on Facebook. It's just the one bloke from what I understand. They also have a discord that he's quite active on.
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Feb 21, 2024 01:56
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tehsid posted:If you haven't, try reaching out of messenger on Facebook. It's just the one bloke from what I understand. They also have a discord that he's quite active on. oh dang good call, I'll hit him up there. Looking at their stuff, they have a ton of awesome poo poo, so many cool modern and scifi buildings dang
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Feb 21, 2024 05:33
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And they print super easy too!
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Feb 21, 2024 06:40
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Can an extruder motor fail in a way that makes it imprecise? I've tuned this E3V2 three times now and each time I get a different number for 100mm of filament. The last time I took off the bowden tube (derp) and figured that was what was causing the problems. Then I finally got a smooth PEI bed, and after two failed small parts, I gave it a big ol' rectangle thing, and it finally stuck. Hallelujah. Woke up this morning to a hairy mess. Like, Chewbacca hairy. So next I guess I'll calibrate the extrusion multiplier for the 20th time and try again, but I'm starting to wonder if there's some underlying problem that's going to prevent me from ever getting this dialed in correctly.
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Feb 21, 2024 15:14
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cruft posted:Can an extruder motor fail in a way that makes it imprecise? It might be your extruder itself... the one that comes with the E3 Pro etc is kinda poo poo, and the brass teeth wear out stupid fast. Before I gave my ender 3 pro away to a friend, I upgraded it with this extruder and it made a big difference: https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B079JZ374W/
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Feb 21, 2024 15:47
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