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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Did you use any technical stuff for the rust/ verdigris? I’m still waiting on the post for parts to come in to start mine

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Professor Shark posted:

Did you use any technical stuff for the rust/ verdigris? I’m still waiting on the post for parts to come in to start mine

Anywhere but your wet pallet, mix baking soda into your paint and use a brush you don't care too much about. You now have corrosion paint.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost

Professor Shark posted:

Did you use any technical stuff for the rust/ verdigris? I’m still waiting on the post for parts to come in to start mine

Nothing too crazy. For the verdigris I mixed some GW tesseract glow technical paint with some gauss blaster green, watered it down until I liked the consistency, and used it a bit like a wash. Drybrush back over with some of the brass highlight, viola.

For the rust I started with rhinox hide(?) brown, used some Typhus Corrosion for the gritty texture in creases and other spots to get rusty, then a little dark red wash in creases, gryph hound orange contrast watered down over that, a smaller amount of a bright orange where I wanted to make the rust show, an even smaller amount of a lighter yellow in select spots, then drybrushed a gunmetal color for wear exposing metal underneath.

The dozer blade has some Secret Weapon dry pigments brushed onto it afterwards. Had that from several years ago and it worked pretty nicely

It could probably be more efficient or smarter but I was mostly experimenting to see what worked.

Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Feb 18, 2024

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Ok, I'm calling the armour done. There's probably more I could do with bounce reflections and poo poo, but I've mentally checked out. Just too much learning for my brain to process! Next up is the cloak and probably giving her a bit more colour in the face.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Was dicking around in Dollar General and found this. Figured I'd check it out in case anyone was interested.







Comes with the LED strip wired in, a black and white faux neoprene back sheet, and a USB-Micro C wire but not the outlet adapter. It's cheap, does what you want it to, and packs down flat for storage which is nice. The cord is pretty short so you'll either need a longer one or an extension cable to plug it in. Doesn't have the biggest area, probably a 10" cube inside the box. Also it's from the dollar store so I fully expect it to die in 6 months, so ymmv.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Springfield Fatts posted:

Was dicking around in Dollar General and found this. Figured I'd check it out in case anyone was interested.







Comes with the LED strip wired in, a black and white faux neoprene back sheet, and a USB-Micro C wire but not the outlet adapter. It's cheap, does what you want it to, and packs down flat for storage which is nice. The cord is pretty short so you'll either need a longer one or an extension cable to plug it in. Doesn't have the biggest area, probably a 10" cube inside the box. Also it's from the dollar store so I fully expect it to die in 6 months, so ymmv.

That reminds me, I should get a new photo booth solution because I broke the USB-C port on the front strip of lights on my photo booth

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Radiation Cow posted:

Ok, I'm calling the armour done. There's probably more I could do with bounce reflections and poo poo, but I've mentally checked out. Just too much learning for my brain to process! Next up is the cloak and probably giving her a bit more colour in the face.



It looks absolutely fire, dude

Springfield Fatts posted:

Was dicking around in Dollar General and found this. Figured I'd check it out in case anyone was interested.







Comes with the LED strip wired in, a black and white faux neoprene back sheet, and a USB-Micro C wire but not the outlet adapter. It's cheap, does what you want it to, and packs down flat for storage which is nice. The cord is pretty short so you'll either need a longer one or an extension cable to plug it in. Doesn't have the biggest area, probably a 10" cube inside the box. Also it's from the dollar store so I fully expect it to die in 6 months, so ymmv.


I have almost the exact same product, also bought at a not-dollar store.

It's alright for costing almost nothing, so it's hard to not recommend if you've got no better alternative. Mine comes with both white and black backdrops, and if you mess around with ISO and shutter time, you can make it work pretty well with both, completely hiding the background texture-- but the light from the LED strip is so cold, you might struggle to find a white balance that looks right

Also I think I'd probably get better results with just white paper illuminated by a proper painting light, but that costs a whole lot more than $10







3/10 infiltrators complete! I really need to get some microsol and microset before I apply any more decals, I'm struggling so much with getting a smooth surface with just water


Guy on the far right has the first painted 3d printed primaris beakie- not a huge fan of the shape, and a lot of details has been lost in the print, I just didn't see it (and the severe layering) before I applied paint.

I may end up buying an box of HH marines just to crib the helmets :l



Real happy with how the sergeant's face turned out, looks appropriately emo

Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Feb 18, 2024

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Levi Termies done! Space Marines truly are the easiest things to paint.

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM

Bohemian Nights posted:


I may end up buying an box of HH marines just to crib the helmets :l


The Primaris Raven guard upgrades comes with two beakie helms and 4 emo heads

https://www.warhammer.com/en-US/shop/raven-guard-mk6-heads-2023

The Forgeworld Raven Guard legion upgrade has 10 beakies and one emo head

https://www.warhammer.com/en-US/shop/raven-guard-mk6-heads-2023

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Looking for a little advice on my Epic 40K/Legions Imperialis stuff, specifically about visual shorthands for making different weapon types look distinctive. My painting skills are poor and right now I'm just trying to get something table-appropriate in such a way that it's obvious that these are my tiny mans and this are what they're armed with.



Plasma weapons are easy, I can dab them with some bright blue in the appropriate areas. Volkite weapons are similar except I don't think there's a generally accepted color so I'm using orange. For big cannons, I'm using Army Painter Enchanted Steel, which is a nice dark metal color. For bolters and other small weapons, I'm using a brighter metal, Army Painter Polished Silver. For flamer weapons I'm using bright metal plus a copper paint on the business end of the gun. I'm pretty satisfied with all of these.

What should I do to distinguish las cannons? The ones I've painted so far I've mostly used dark metal, and they look like they could be hard to distinguish from autocannons when placed on the tabletop. Bright-metal body and barrel with a dark-metal tip (or maybe a flat black tip)? How about for infantry-scale missile launchers, should they be metallic or a flat color?

Any input is appreciated.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kylaer posted:

What should I do to distinguish las cannons? The ones I've painted so far I've mostly used dark metal, and they look like they could be hard to distinguish from autocannons when placed on the tabletop. Bright-metal body and barrel with a dark-metal tip (or maybe a flat black tip)? How about for infantry-scale missile launchers, should they be metallic or a flat color?

Any input is appreciated.

Have you considered adding black accents to the yellow parts of the turrets, or small parts of the chassis, so they're immediately differentiated when seen from above?



Despite the barrels being very different, I made sure that the battlecannon had a majority-blue turret with a horizontal band on the front of the chassis, and the melta had a single vertical stripe running parallel to the tracks.

You could do something similar, but with black over the yellow. Wouldn't even take that much, either a single coat of black contrast, or a base of Grey Seer first before the contrast layer.

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Feb 19, 2024

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Painting a straight stripe like those is way beyond my skill level :v:

I could do something to distinguish the whole vehicle instead of the gun itself, I'll think on that. It's the sponson weapons more than the main guns that I'm stumped on though, the big ones tend to be distinctive enough by their shape.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kylaer posted:

Painting a straight stripe like those is way beyond my skill level :v:
The trick is to follow existing panel lines :ssh:

Kylaer posted:

I could do something to distinguish the whole vehicle instead of the gun itself, I'll think on that. It's the sponson weapons more than the main guns that I'm stumped on though, the big ones tend to be distinctive enough by their shape.

I notice you've already filled in some of the little recessed squares in black, why not just make a rule that only lascannon sponsons have those filled in?

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Super Waffle posted:

The Primaris Raven guard upgrades comes with two beakie helms and 4 emo heads

https://www.warhammer.com/en-US/shop/raven-guard-mk6-heads-2023

The Forgeworld Raven Guard legion upgrade has 10 beakies and one emo head

https://www.warhammer.com/en-US/shop/raven-guard-mk6-heads-2023

Thanks a lot for the suggestion, but I've already considered those! The upgrade pack heads look great, but are simply too expensive on a per-beakie basis, and the linked MK6 heads just look... wrong to me. The upgrade pack and classic MKVI helmets have larger eyes, and my brain tells me that is a must on a proper beakie. Luckily for me, the HH MKVI squad pack helmets lean towards that design, ie;



Dunno what I'll do with the rest of the pack- maybe I'll try selling it or just giving it away at some lgs facebook page

e: was looking at the page I found the above image on, and it looks like I can just literally buy the exact bits I need for almost nothing (and then get hosed on shipping and import tax later)

You can even buy corvus corax facing down a leaf blower or something

Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Feb 19, 2024

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Lol that face is saying “Why do I exist?”

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
OK so these heads for the whole squad. Yay or Nay?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Shoehead posted:

OK so these heads for the whole squad. Yay or Nay?



I vote Nay. Not that what's there is not good, I just really like the default heads.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

Shoehead posted:

OK so these heads for the whole squad. Yay or Nay?



i do not like the head on this body, it looks out of place. it looks like the underwire for the helmet they should be wearing. it's very well done tho.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Votann have been out for like a year and their aesthetic has already been sealed as "dwarf head or bubble helmet" so anything else just looks weird imo

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

No for me

bandaid.friend
Apr 25, 2017

:obama:My first car was a stick:obama:

Shoehead posted:

OK so these heads for the whole squad. Yay or Nay?



Shorten the neck, it'll look better when the head sits lower

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Yeah I thought they would go really well with that one metallic head you get for Khals but it kind of fits awkwardly...

Might be one to save for my Salvagers

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



The lack of orange on the helmet also makes the model look like it's missing the actual helmet to me.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?

rantmo posted:

The lack of orange on the helmet also makes the model look like it's missing the actual helmet to me.

drat I was going for something like this

But with chrome or silver for regular troops and the gold saved for champions. I'm not sure where I'd throw some orange tbh

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
You could easily get some orange on the crest of the helmet, or on the domino mask. I think crest would be better overall, but blue lenses against orange eye band would pop more.

Unrelated, here are some rat ogres.










I'm really pleased with how the flail one came out.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Gravitas Shortfall posted:

The trick is to follow existing panel lines :ssh:

And if you're still unsure, the existing panel lines make it easy to align the masking tape. For a first-time user, my advice is to be very, very sure you press the edge facing the paint down firmly and thoroughly. That advice made my second time using masking tape go much better than the first.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
I painted a thing for a game I don't play. Norn Emissary for scale. Had to go with my take on the OG Behemoth colors

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


mllaneza posted:

And if you're still unsure, the existing panel lines make it easy to align the masking tape. For a first-time user, my advice is to be very, very sure you press the edge facing the paint down firmly and thoroughly. That advice made my second time using masking tape go much better than the first.

imo Epic is mostly too small for masking tape

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Duncan method works best imo: position the model, not your hands, and stroke down. Fix sides as needed, I’ve never done stripes perfectly the first time, it’s just a matter of going back and forth between colors

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost

grassy gnoll posted:

You could easily get some orange on the crest of the helmet, or on the domino mask. I think crest would be better overall, but blue lenses against orange eye band would pop more.

Unrelated, here are some rat ogres.










I'm really pleased with how the flail one came out.

Love them. Are they a conversion or third party model for Clan Pestilens rogres? Very smooth and pleasing to look at while still looking quite ferocious.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

Love them. Are they a conversion or third party model for Clan Pestilens rogres? Very smooth and pleasing to look at while still looking quite ferocious.

Thanks. Third party sculpts, I've got stupid fingers when it comes to 3D media.

The guys with the shrouds are from Resin Warfare, while the hooded guy is by Manuel Boria. You can buy direct from RW's Etsy or get 'em printed for you, but I think Boria only sells STLs.

He's got two rogres up, and I wish desperately he'd do more, because his style is perfect for huge bulky Warhammer monsters. The gnolls I posted a little while back are also by him.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
My first test skinny Orc is done. This is using my new Vallejo Game Color intro set I got.




Kind of all over the place with this one. Considering it was my first time doing Orc skin without contrast paint, I think it turned out better than I expected. For some reason, his right foot looks better than the rest, so if I can just do what I did there to the rest of the model I would be happy.

Also first time ever doing leather and it is way harder than I expected. Flat surfaces suck. I never know what to do with them since I don't know how to blend 2 colors together. Instead, I created a dirty "wash" using the dark brown and black that I was supposed to only place into the recesses and add shadows, but some of it got on the rest of the leather and created this weird worn effect....I'm not sure what to think of it.

The metals...I just don't like them. Dry brushing metals takes a full minute and gives me the best worn metallic I've ever painted. I just need to do that for all metals until I understand what I'm supposed to be doing with them.


Mixing colors was easily the funnest part of the process. I just added the only red color I had to the dark brown and....boom reddish brown leather. Of course, I couldn't recreate the color exactly for the top portion of the armor, so it looks a bit different.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Personally I really like the model color lime green

Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Feb 21, 2024

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



I was quite sad to see the two links to the 'recommended starting/picking-back-up kit' stuff on Reaper in the OP have apparently expired. Was there some updated version of that? I'm far enough along at this point that I'm actively clearing out space for small mans, possibly wildly underestimating the necessary scope.

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

PoptartsNinja posted:

I painted a thing for a game I don't play. Norn Emissary for scale. Had to go with my take on the OG Behemoth colors



Love this, and the gritty colour scheme. Is it the one from the 3rd ed code?

I have my norn emissary waiting on a shelf to paint, bit intimidated.

I want to do the neurotyrant first and work on my brain techniques to try get a nice glow. Just finished a group of termagants and I like how theyve come out, I hope my colour scheme works well on the bigger models.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

Prawned posted:

Love this, and the gritty colour scheme. Is it the one from the 3rd ed code?

Yeah, the 3E codex was my first, and I'll always have a soft spot for that look.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Done with these for now time to do something else

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
I ended up going with one of my 3d printed dwarf heads.. I actually went to go see if I could buy more and the etsy shop got nuked, yaaay!



I'm still not 100% satisfied with how I'm doing metallics, it's just 2 tones of citadel metallics over black atm

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

One way to add interest to metallics is with a wash. Not only does it give a lovely tint, but it also increases contrast and makes it look cleaner. And then, if you're feeling super-fancy, hit the raised bits with a final layer of your brightest silver colour.

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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Nessus posted:

I was quite sad to see the two links to the 'recommended starting/picking-back-up kit' stuff on Reaper in the OP have apparently expired. Was there some updated version of that? I'm far enough along at this point that I'm actively clearing out space for small mans, possibly wildly underestimating the necessary scope.

the OP is from 2015 and the poster hasn't posted in years. we could probably do with a new thread. i could just make one.

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